Start stop not ready / battery charging message after aux battery change - What next?

[ATX_Jeeper]

Mine ended up being the main battery but I didn't find that out until after I replaced the aux battery. Have them properly tested or replace them both.

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[scotticus]

Mine ended up being the main battery but I didn't find that out until after I replaced the aux battery. Have them properly tested or replace them both.

Same issue, replaced my main battery, ESS works now. I didn't touch the aux battery ?‍

 

[red/green hawk]

Gonna rehash this. Auxiliary and main battery are fully charged. Took fuse out. Still have the battery charging message. What next?

 

[sharpsicle]

Gonna rehash this. Auxiliary and main battery are fully charged. Took fuse out. Still have the battery charging message. What next?

What did you do exactly? How did you charge them, and how did you determine the level of charge? Did you reset the IBS?

This is just too vague to be able to help.

 

[red/green hawk]

What did you do exactly? How did you charge them, and how did you determine the level of charge? Did you reset the IBS?

This is just too vague to be able to help.

So I thought it was the auxiliary battery so I replaced it. No change. I read through this post and then checked the charge of my main battery with a multimeter. It read 12.4 V. I have a few accessories hook up so i figured i have a parasitic drain happening. So I did a maintenance charge and my main battery has been holding at 12.8 V. I read that I could reset the ESS by removing the fuse (F42). So I did for a few minutes and then put it back in. I still have the message. Do I have to reset the IBS? How do I do that?

I'm at 35000 and original main battery.

 

[Mr._Bill]

The IBS is the device attached to the negative post of the Main Battery that the cables attach to. A reset is accomplished by completely disconnecting it for at least ten minutes.

Disconnect the negative cables and IBS. Separately charge each battery and then let them sit for several hours with no load. Each one should read 12.8 volts if they are in good health.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

So I thought it was the auxiliary battery so I replaced it. No change. I read through this post and then checked the charge of my main battery with a multimeter. It read 12.4 V. I have a few accessories hook up so i figured i have a parasitic drain happening. So I did a maintenance charge and my main battery has been holding at 12.8 V. I read that I could reset the ESS by removing the fuse (F42). So I did for a few minutes and then put it back in. I still have the message. Do I have to reset the IBS? How do I do that?

F42 doesn't reset anything.

You need to reset the IBS any time you do battery replacement.
And I hope you fully charged the aux battery before installing it.
Not sure what you mean by maintenance charge - I just put a good 10+ amp AGM charger on and let it charge through all 4 phases until it says it's fully charged.
You should have done that with the aux battery before installing as well.

The IBS is the device attached to the negative post of the Main Battery that the cables attach to. A reset is accomplished by completely disconnecting it for at least ten minutes.

Yeah - I disconnect that, lay it aside, when I do full charges on the other batteries.

Once it's all together, all loads, and all charging, must go through the IBS - connected to it on top, not around it directly to the negative post.

 

[red/green hawk]

I did not charge the aux battery...

F42 doesn't reset anything.

You need to reset the IBS any time you do battery replacement.
And I hope you fully charged the aux battery before installing it.
Not sure what you mean by maintenance charge - I just put a good 10+ amp AGM charger on and let it charge through all 4 phases until it says it's fully charged.
You should have done that with the aux battery before installing as well.

I did not charge the new auxiliary battery...


Yeah - I disconnect that, lay it aside, when I do full charges on the other batteries.

Once it's all together, all loads, and all charging, must go through the IBS - connected to it on top, not around it directly to the negative post.

 

[red/green hawk]

Maintenance charge is a setting on my charger. It's just a slow charge. Is the OEM battery AGM?

 

[Mr._Bill]

Maintenance charge is a setting on my charger. It's just a slow charge. Is the OEM battery AGM?

The Main Battery and Aux Battery are both AGM. The truck charging system is designed for use with AGM batteries. Make sure the charger you're using has a AGM setting.

 

[red/green hawk]

IBS reset, ESS is working again.

 

[Dmag33]

My new to me 21 JTRD always has this message on. Today I replaced the Aux battery and still see the message even after a short test drive. During the drive I did notice the voltage fluctuating between 12 and 14 volts. Once I got home I used my volt meter to test the original aux battery since it was now out of the Jeep and it was reading about 12.3 volts. I also tested the main battery with the engine off and it was also reading 12.3 volts. Unfortunately I did not test the new aux battery before installing it but it had a date code of 12/22 so I'm sure it was fine.

What other options do I have to resolve this issue?

An actual carbon pile load test on each fully charged battery is a good place to start, after testing mine it turned out that the main battery when tested for cold cranking amps was only in the 400 amp range for a 700 amp rated battery, never had a no start or no crank and the battery tested to proper voltage, had a weak cell or two. The aux battery was good but I replaced both anyway. The ess not ready charging issue message immediately went away. My tester is by a company called Midtronics and is indeed pricy..

 

[ShadowsPapa]

An actual carbon pile load test on each fully charged battery is a good place to start, after testing mine it turned out that the main battery when tested for cold cranking amps was only in the 400 amp range for a 700 amp rated battery, never had a no start or no crank and the battery tested to proper voltage, had a weak cell or two. The aux battery was good but I replaced both anyway. The ess not ready charging issue message immediately went away. My tester is by a company called Midtronics and is indeed pricy..

If he wants a simple place to start, he can buy the "classic" versions pretty cheaply and readily on eBay.
I've had mine for decades (and you can tell.........)
I also have the testing procedures as laid out by GM and others as I went to GM and Ford and Chrysler classes in the 70s and 80s and still, to this day, have the handouts. A lot was review from my college days but who can't use a refresher now and then? Or even to get newer or updated info (GM kept changing their batteries and alternator regulated voltages, it was hard to keep up - almost as bad as Microsoft updates LOL)

I'd be happy to make copies of battery testing docs from college or those GM schools.

You can even load test alternators - even "smart" ones if you rig them with a 1970s MOPAR electronic voltage regulator.
In this case, I'm checking out a voltage regulator I designed and put into a PC board as a replacement for AMC Motorola regulators.

The point is, like @Dmag33 was making - the modern testers like seen at the parts stores just don't do a great job. Too often they are relying on internal resistance readings and so on. And even battery makers and battery charger makers don't believe that to be a good or accurate testing (it gets deep into science so won't post it here)
A load test on a fully charged battery, one that is charged by a real battery charger, not a "maintainer" or some of the cheaper trickle chargers, one that goes through all of phases of charging for AGM batteries, is the most reliable way to go.

There is a valid reason dealership shops tell you it will take some time!
Note the parts stores do it in seconds - not very reliable, depending on the tool they use and the training of the guy doing it.

 

[jac04]

In this case, I'm checking out a voltage regulator I designed and put into a PC board as a replacement for AMC Motorola regulators.

Nice! With the old GM Delco external voltage regulators, you can just pirate the PC board from a new solid state regulator and swap it in. Here is my Camaro's original factory-installed VR with new 'guts'.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Nice! With the old GM Delco external voltage regulators, you can just pirate the PC board from a new solid state regulator and swap it in. Here is my Camaro's original factory-installed VR with new 'guts'.

Great idea - and could be applied to some other systems as well. All one has to do is make sure you match field types - A or B

(for onlookers, I'd bet lunch Jeff knows this since he's done a conversion) -
Motorola is type B - one side of the field is always grounded and the regulator controls power to the other side.

A is where one side always has power and the regulator controls it by grounding the other side of the field.

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