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EGR Diffuser Tube Cleaning; 3rd Gen EcoDiesel

GladiatorPilot23

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To try to answer your questions:
Pulled that tube at around 80K. Do not run fuel additives regularly. Ran some extreme diesel for about 8 tanks of fuel after that, have not checked it since. As far as getting it off, it just takes removal of the heat shield upstream on the tube and a wobbly on a socket for the two screws and some gentle love, persuasion and some encouragement that the jeep will be ok and out it came. If you do attempt it, I will say( and can't stress enough) do not over torque those two screws!!! I initially wanted to see if the intake was melted as I have seen and heard instances of that with the plastic intake and the temp issue the eco has. When I was seeing 1500deg. at the turbo last year, was concerned the intake plenum might be taking the brunt of that heat. The temps out of the egr during those pulls was also higher than it should be.

And to Gladpilot23's point on water/meth, I agree with you. Would clean it up for sure. Ran those systems on pre def trucks I had owned the past. I have not done enough research to see if anyone has run it on an eco diesel, to what success, and what cost if any to the after treatment system. That shit is so expensive and I'm 3500 miles from being out of warranty for good. If anyone has data on running water meth on the eco I'd love to hear about it.

This was an old article but a fund read.

https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/1507-snow-performance-power-max-water-methanol-system/

Once I do mine, I have most of the parts now, I'll start a thread on it.
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NMH_94

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To try to answer your questions:
As far as getting it off, it just takes removal of the heat shield upstream on the tube and a wobbly on a socket for the two screws and some gentle love, persuasion and some encouragement that the jeep will be ok and out it came. If you do attempt it, I will say( and can't stress enough) do not over torque those two screws!!!
Thanks! Would you mind taking a pic of the tools you used? If so, I'd greatly appreciate it. I want to start cleaning the tube regularly myself if I can. Spent over $300 to have a shop do it the last time around 😒
 

Minty JL

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Just saw a video on YT of an intake manifold........holy fuckin hell. Close to 40% blockage on the intake.......so glad I opted for turd'ish cam eating PenaBomb
 

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I'd also like some information on this. Process, what you used to clean it with, how to get to it. Tools used. I'm curious about mine , 62k and counting on ve never noticed a Regen. What do I look for? No other added gauges. Any telltale signs?
 

Vtur

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I'd also like some information on this. Process, what you used to clean it with, how to get to it. Tools used. I'm curious about mine , 62k and counting on ve never noticed a Regen. What do I look for? No other added gauges. Any telltale signs?
During an active regen, you should notice a slightly higher rpm at idle. Can't tell while moving without a gauge.
 

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kb5zcr

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I'd also like some information on this. Process, what you used to clean it with, how to get to it. Tools used. I'm curious about mine , 62k and counting on ve never noticed a Regen. What do I look for? No other added gauges. Any telltale signs?
Get yourself a scanguage2 (abt $150) or Banks iDash and you can see when a regen is happening. I have the scanguage2 and my rig goes into regen every 700-800 miles, or when my dpf soot load reaches 80%. I've never seen any messages on the vehicles display when these happen, but the scanguage2 does show it.
 

Rusty PW

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Get yourself a scanguage2 (abt $150) or Banks iDash and you can see when a regen is happening. I have the scanguage2 and my rig goes into regen every 700-800 miles, or when my dpf soot load reaches 80%. I've never seen any messages on the vehicles display when these happen, but the scanguage2 does show it.
My iDash shows the samething. Around 800 miles, 80%.
 

Free2roam

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Get yourself a scanguage2 (abt $150) or Banks iDash and you can see when a regen is happening. I have the scanguage2 and my rig goes into regen every 700-800 miles, or when my dpf soot load reaches 80%. I've never seen any messages on the vehicles display when these happen, but the scanguage2 does show it.
Better of the two? Or are they not comparable?
 

rubicon4wheeler

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For EGR and intake the #1 cause it gets clogged is not from soot but from evaporated oil. You need a catch can and not just any can. The best one is the Mann/Hummel Provent. There is no real kit but Im going to make it work once I get around to it.
If you figure out a good way to plumb it, I'm sure that I'm not the only one who would REALLY appreciate some photos or a little write-up on your installation.
 

kb5zcr

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Better of the two? Or are they not comparable?
I like the look of the iDash better, very nice, but a lot more expensive (I don't have one).
I believe they pretty much do the same thing.
The scanguage2 will let me clear codes (I've never done it), I don't know if the iDash will clear codes.
Just research both and get whichever you like better, both are fine.
 

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GladiatorPilot23

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If you figure out a good way to plumb it, I'm sure that I'm not the only one who would REALLY appreciate some photos or a little write-up on your installation.

OK, no problem. I’ll record it take some pictures and post them up. Maybe start a a simple YouTube for some of the stuff I did on the Gladiator so far that people might get help with.
 
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Rusty PW

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I like the look of the iDash better, very nice, but a lot more expensive (I don't have one).
I believe they pretty much do the same thing.
The scanguage2 will let me clear codes (I've never done it), I don't know if the iDash will clear codes.
Just research both and get whichever you like better, both are fine.
You can clear codes with the iDash too.
 

Wat Dog

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Had mine out too to clean it. Intake looks about the same. Gonna pull it off at 100k( in about a month) and clean that all out and replace all of the gaskets.

tempImage1Ycl8H.jpg
Holy Hell!!! I am glad I made the move to just get rid of the entire system. I had the DPF replaced 2x under warranty before I finally decided that I didn’t want to have such an expensive part replaced on my dime. Like everyone else who has had the weight loss procedure, I wish I had done it sooner.
 

ssrlewis

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Add me to the watch list.

Steve
 

Jtfire35

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I like the look of the iDash better, very nice, but a lot more expensive (I don't have one).
I believe they pretty much do the same thing.
The scanguage2 will let me clear codes (I've never done it), I don't know if the iDash will clear codes.
Just research both and get whichever you like better, both are fine.
Like rusty said it can clear codes also. I like the Idash better you can customize colors, you set Alerts for temps and what not I have alerts set for Oil and coolant temps. you can monitor a lot more things by creating up to 8 pages I believe with up to 6 items each.
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