Pitman arm nut seized!

[DanJT]

I've used one of these before to heat nuts up.

https://www.amazon.com/Magnetic-Induction-Heater-Removal-Removing/dp/B0D1CGL6G5/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?crid=2VIKKMEC8MWU1&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.gWFvLZ4WXaTFl9aaUz1sztDf3EClg7KeT_iiiQWUXCdbiTb8Htw2C47Z0FGG6_I_3a5LZ4hJVxp6FWj1xabNFFL6rixHXq_AGW2wgDZa6WRpcYOZq61Jf1fwQwPn_jYVWJ_mqPV4zi6NofpS0FQt67gNh49JkKDKwjhnENy1bwN-0-C_ZkaKIxehqRzI9wEl29SCqo3x6nC3ywPkLhhR0xkJCd93Z6sge2K9LUJtJO9aAzlPiulMRho2NcYF7oGt-DXpgNbQqnQ6EVKhPgIfPd_4LY6b09xfT_yEEeYmq0M.8BnYdhj-ZlUMcT7K10SjqEOqICGcNyvX0EN70-Wv3tI&dib_tag=se&keywords=induction+heater&qid=1747096195&sprefix=induc,aps,111&sr=8-3-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1

Neat little gadget! I wonder if Auto Zone rents them out...

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[Jteakus]

I used a 3/4" breaker bar and 6 point socket, no heat. Don't remember it being that bad. Be careful with the heat, there are seals in there. Of course a leaking gear box is a great excuse to install a PSC box.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

If you want to buy me one, I'll send you my shipping address. I have better things to spend 300 bucks on that I will use more. We don't have rust in AZ.

Rust doesn't matter.
Works great for FRAME bolts (melts Loctite) and helps loosen taper joints and so on. The one Russ shows is only about 150. It is a great tool for tapered joints, locknuts, Loctite. I'd say I've yet to use mine on anything with rust.

I've used mine to pop the pulley off the gear box for my JT lawn tractor - tapered fit, couldn't get a press to it. I've used it to heat steel rod and bars to bend them and more. You can even use surface coils to help pop dents and such.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I used a 3/4" breaker bar and 6 point socket, no heat. Don't remember it being that bad. Be careful with the heat, there are seals in there. Of course a leaking gear box is a great excuse to install a PSC box.

That's why an induction heater is great - concentrated heat only on the nut, fast enough it doesn't easily travel to other areas.
FCA recommends it for loosening body to frame bolts on Jeeps.

 

[Badunit]

Penetrating oil did nothing for me. Mine wasn't so tight I couldn't get it loose with a 3' section of pipe on a breaker bar but it was a struggle from the beginning all the way to the last thread. I found that turning it back the other way every once in a while helped. I used a 1 11/16" 6 pt socket because I couldn't find a 42mm.

The pitman arm wasn't on any tighter than other pitman arms I've removed. You just need a good puller, an impact wrench, and stand clear.

 

[OldButStillJeeping]

I have cut off a couple Jeep pitman arms. Sometimes it is easier.

 

[DanJT]

Alright, just ordered the heat induction kit and Now going to HF to get a !,200# impact gun, if either one of these 2 do not work, It's Blasting cap time!!!

 

[Rusty PW]

Alright, just ordered the heat induction kit and Now going to HF to get a !,200# impact gun, if either one of these 2 do not work, It's Blasting cap time!!!

A little C4 goes a long way.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

A little C4 goes a long way.

C4 - the serious putty.............

 

[Sweetums]

A little C4 goes a long way.

My brother was in the Army and deployed. He shared with me the formula for how much C4 to use.

M= Mass of the object
(M/10)+(2P)
So one tenth the mass plus 2P (P="Plenty")

 

[DanJT]

C4 - the serious putty.............

10-4 on the C-4.

 

[Rusty PW]

.

 

[WILDHOBO]

I had this problem putting on an aftermarket tie rod. For getting the nut off the shaft, more torque. I got a cheap 3/4” drive set and had to use the 3/4” breaker bar, a cheater extension, and a lot of force. I’d also use a heat gun on the nut to soften whatever industrial loctite is on there. (I would not use a flame torch that close to fluid lines.). It’s a bear but getting the nut off is only the beginning.

Once the nut is off, you’re likely to also find the pitman arm splines glued to the sector shaft. If you have to remove the whole arm (I did - I was never able to remove the tie rod end from the outer end of the pitman arm) you will need a pitman arm puller. You probably won’t be able to ring it out by hammering on it (and might harm the steering box if you did). I used a Lisle 41970 which fit nicely.

Be warned - when you build up enough force with the puller to break the glue, it will release with serious violence. I smashed my thumb so hard it instantly went numb and I didn’t get full feeling back for over a year. Make sure there’s no body part between the shaft and wherever the arm wants to go when it releases

With the pitman arm and stock tie rod out of the truck, I was finally able to hammer the rod end out with a 10 lb sledge in a huge shop vise. Fucking beast of a job

I hate crap like that. I feel your pain. I just bought a new knuckle because a press won’t get a ball joint spindle out of it.

 

[LouisvEarlleJT]

Not on my JT but I've used the truck itself to break it loose.

1) Get a breaker bar and socket on there
2) Place it in such a way that when you turn the wheels it lodges against the axle/frame/something hard
3) Start the vehicle and turn the wheel.

Also works on stubborn axle nuts on 4WD vehicles, except you use the ground as your "something hard"

 

[DanJT]

Not on my JT but I've used the truck itself to break it loose.

1) Get a breaker bar and socket on there
2) Place it in such a way that when you turn the wheels it lodges against the axle/frame/something hard
3) Start the vehicle and turn the wheel.

Also works on stubborn axle nuts on 4WD vehicles, except you use the ground as your "something hard"

So you are using the tire as brute force to turn the seized nut/Bolt?

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