DPF Failure @ 27k Miles

[tj3089]

I had the same issue on my trip to Colorado last year. I had to pull over and do a forced regen and it seemed to fix the issue. I was towing my toy hauler and it was July in NM.

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[MaximusTX]

ok, so after talking with the dealer a third time, they admitted they didn't really know the cause of my failure. They simply read the codes as DPF failed. I think they were just spitting out words the first time since there is no "crack" internal. So.. this could be the sensor that Biodiesel mentioned, but this is really early miles so maybe it was a bad batch sensor. OR the issue is something else and the dealer isn't going to investigate the real cause of the failure. I don't know if the DPF is actually full at this point, or if it was just reading full and messing with the computers, or if my truck wasn't attempting any regens while driving. Sort of irritating not to know. But I guess I'll keep doing what I'm doing and see how long the second DPF lasts.

I had the same issue on my trip to Colorado last year. I had to pull over and do a forced regen and it seemed to fix the issue. I was towing my toy hauler and it was July in NM.

I had the same issue with the same codes and it was July driving through TX, NM & UT. I wasn't towing anything but I was fully loaded with 4 adults and full of luggage and recovery equipment. Forced Regen resolved the issue and I haven't had any issues since then. I also had a bad battery that did get replaced under warranty that was causing some weird electric issues. It's been over a year since then.

 

[biodiesel]

I had to pull over and do a forced regen

What was your procedure for doing a forced regen?

 

[biodiesel]

Forced Regen resolved the issue

What was your procedure for doing a forced regen?

 

[MaximusTX]

What was your procedure for doing a forced regen?

It happened to me I think 3-4 times on my trip and only happened when I was on the freeway after about 5-6 hours into the drive and I didn't have any scan tools to do a forced regen so this is what I did. Probably not the best methods but when you are in the middle of nowhere this is what worked for me:

1st time: Close to a city and limped back to the city and dealership did a Forced Regen
2nd time: Pulled over and Ran it at I think 3500 RPMs for 15-20min
3rd&4th time: Put it in manual mode and drove in 1st gear at 2500RPM for like 5min or so and then it allowed me to shift into 2nd and drove it there for 5min at 2500rpm and then I could shift into 3rd and so on. When the Soot level dropped to 70% it started the active regen on it's own.

I had a couple other codes come up. I think one was for manifold and one was for something else. It was in complete limp mode when I got home. Got it to the dealership and they couldn't find anything wrong with it. They found the battery was bad and replaced it and reset the codes and kept it for another couple days to verify everything but I haven't had any issues with it since and didn't have any issues with it prior to that or even at my destination only on the days of travel. The dealership said these can have very strange issues when the batteries start going dead. Since then I now carry the proper tools to do a forced regen should I need to and I also have my iDASH setup correctly to monitor the correct temps and will be setting it up to alert me when temps go out of spec.

 

[RudeJeepin]

Hmm, did he by chance have the code P026D? This could be related, through out ownership, my truck has thrown P026D about every 5K. This is a fuel code that it seems many diesel JTs get. It would always self clear, but I took it to a different dealer to get that issue fixed a while back and they said it was a bad sensor, which necer got fixed because the sensor has been on back order for a long time. Now, they may not be related but now I wonder. From what I have read on the P026D, not many find a reliable source of the issue, but many get it. Anyone here have any insight on that? Could that contribute to a DPF failure?

That's been quite a few years ago, so I don't remember what codes were present.

 

[tj3089]

What was your procedure for doing a forced regen?

I used the Jscan app to activate the regen cycle and it took about 10 mins to burn everything off. It was the only time it happened to me, but I did not want to deal with it again so the Jeep went on a diet.

 

[biodiesel]

I used the Jscan app to activate the regen cycle and it took about 10 mins to burn everything off.

I have AlfaOBD, so I need to learn how to do that just in case it happens to me.

 

[daigljk]

Hmm, did he by chance have the code P026D? This could be related, through out ownership, my truck has thrown P026D about every 5K. This is a fuel code that it seems many diesel JTs get. It would always self clear, but I took it to a different dealer to get that issue fixed a while back and they said it was a bad sensor, which necer got fixed because the sensor has been on back order for a long time. Now, they may not be related but now I wonder. From what I have read on the P026D, not many find a reliable source of the issue, but many get it. Anyone here have any insight on that? Could that contribute to a DPF failure?

Which specific sensor was bad and replaced?

 

[UTDieselRubi]

Which specific sensor was bad and replaced?

So they haven't been replaced yet since the dealer originally said they were on back order. They said they were the cam sensor and O2 sensor.

 

[biodiesel]

@UTDieselRubi, has the dealership provided you with an update?

 

[UTDieselRubi]

@UTDieselRubi, has the dealership provided you with an update?

So I picked the truck up today. To my surprise, it had a brand new hood, tailgate, and doors. They even re-painted my fenders. They didn't tell me that was gonna happen but its a pleasant plus lol, considering it was free. Said they found corrosion. But the service advisor did say he talked to the tech and the tech said those sensors wouldn't affect the DPF, so possibly on the clear there, unless either of them ever cause over fueling. Other than that, warranty went through on the DPF, so they had to give Stellantis a better explanation than bad maintenance but they still claim they don't know why it failed other than it was a bad DPF. I assume it could have still been the sensor you mentioned or purely a bad DPF. So no idea how to avoid the same issue other than monitor closely the soot levels, so over the weekend I purchased an Idash with the recordable SD card. Hopefully that will help prevent failures in the future by showing me when regens are needed before its too late. My sensors are now scheduled for replacement on the 30th, however the tech at this dealer also claimed he tested them and found them to be "working properly" so who knows.

 

[UTDieselRubi]

One week update. The new DPF seems to work ok, however now that I have a Banks idash I have noticed a few things with my soot levels. I've always heard that you should drive for 45min to an hour on the freeway weekly if your diesel sees a lot of short city trips to clear out the soot. The thing is, my soot levels climb very fast when going 70 to 80mph on the freeway, even for an hour or more. When on the freeway, even loaded up, my truck doesn't slowly burn the soot down, sending it to active regen every few hours when it hits 80%. On the flip side, a short trip in town only increases the level a few % making the freeway worse in my case for the dpf. When on slower roads, around 50 to 65mph, it does very slowly burn the level down. Is that what everyone else's does as well or is this indicative of an issue persisting?

 

[kb5zcr]

That is what I see too. If I'm pulling my trailer and drive where my turbo Temps are steadily above 1000 my soot levels are rising, but if I slow down and keep the turbo Temps around 850-900 my soot level slowly decrease. This is NOT what folks say about driving it hard to keep soot levels down.
When unloaded (no trailer), driving 65-70, my soot levels slowly go down.

P.S. When pulling my 3000 lb "tall" cargo trailer I usually find that my soot levels really don't rise quickly by keeping the trans in 7th gear and rpms around 2300-2500.

 

[Stuntman Mike]

That is what I see too. If I'm pulling my trailer and drive where my turbo Temps are steadily above 1000 my soot levels are rising, but if I slow down and keep the turbo Temps around 850-900 my soot level slowly decrease. This is NOT what folks say about driving it hard to keep soot levels down.
When unloaded (no trailer), driving 65-70, my soot levels slowly go down.

P.S. When pulling my 3000 lb "tall" cargo trailer I usually find that my soot levels really don't rise quickly by keeping the trans in 7th gear and rpms around 2300-2500.

Do you have the corresponding oil temperatures?

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