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Is your Gladiator pulling after a lift??

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GWolgamott

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Didn't have issues after lift (3" + 3/4" leveling puck) but it came with correction brackets to correct the caster. So it's been fine, only noticeable issue I had after lift is bounce back from stabilizer on harsh bumps. Nothing normal driving you'd feel, so really not an issue. Just noticeable really.
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Wheelin98TJ

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Tossing this out as a question for the masses here - if your caster was below spec, or just say, below your goal, (say, it's sitting at 5 and you want closer to 5.5 or even 6 degrees)
What's your first choice, or the most common method to correct caster on a Jeep after a lift?

Would you use geometry correcting brackets (assume a lift over 2") or adjustable control arms
or
Leave the control arms at an angle and leave the stock arms in place and use inserts.

Yes, I'm asking, as one seems to be a lot more work, where the other leave you open to changes later, done just in your driveway?

I know all methods exist, but just to be sure I'm not missing something here - who would use ball joint inserts over brackets or control arms?

Are inserts a "common" method to change caster after a lift?
I'm guessing the "inserts" are cam bolts for the front lowers.
 

Stan H

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Are inserts a "common" method to change caster after a lift?
No one does that except him from my perspective on this conversation.
Inserts? Or is He talking geometry brackets . I cant stand cryptic comments. And I aint meaning yours @ShadowsPapa
 

Stan H

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Opening this up - maybe I'll learn something -
Can anyone here tell me what about this is incorrect:



Please correct me on which of the above is incorrect...........
Can a lift on a Jeep change camber? How?
Can a lift on a Jeep change toe? How - especially if you don't change the tie rod at the same time)
How can a lift change the caster difference between sides?
Remember, this is solid front axle, not IFS where all bets are off and yes, lifting changes EVERYTHING with IFS.

He's really certain I'm wrong in the above, says my "assumptions" are incorrect - so if anyone has any info and evidence showing what changes and how a lift effects that change or causes it, Please let me know so I don't spread incorrect information.
(I also did alignments for many years)
Your Correct shims are IFS Not solid axle . Where is one gonna stick a shim in the C to change caster. .
The C could be cut clear off and rotated top back bottom out to increase caster but who in their right mind would do that over adjustable lowers and uppers ?
 

ShadowsPapa

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I'm guessing the "inserts" are cam bolts for the front lowers.
Not a fan of those, if that's what is meant.

You either lose bolt size, or have to wallow out a hole to allow an eccentric to work against a stop, more like the system used on Ford Mustang lower control arms to adjust camber. Tabs can break, bolts have to be massively tight.

Jeep Gladiator Is your Gladiator pulling after a lift?? 1761158622678-xq


I prefer the adjustable control arm, or even the bracket with enough lift.
 

Wheelin98TJ

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Not a fan of those, if that's what is meant.

You either lose bolt size, or have to wallow out a hole to allow an eccentric to work against a stop, more like the system used on Ford Mustang lower control arms to adjust camber. Tabs can break, bolts have to be massively tight.

1761158622678-xq.webp


I prefer the adjustable control arm, or even the bracket with enough lift.
Agreed, cam bolts suck.
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