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What did you do TO your Gladiator today? [ADMIN WARNING: NO POLITICS, NO GUN TALK]

Brad.Clarkston

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HUGE improvement. It's really tightened up the rear end with the ARE cap. Usually two hands on the wheel going over the San Mateo bridge but one handed yesterday. Got back home, i disconnected the bar and did a few spirits cornering around my house just to confirm. It felt similar to having the stock bar on. I think the factory hollowed bar is under sized for a lifted and/or top heavy applications.
Is that only for lifted applications or can it help a stock Rubicon (diesel) that much ?
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WILDHOBO

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cb4017

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Installed the slightly longer Mopar Performance LCAs on my Mojave.

Discovered that at 70 some years old I don't quite have the ass any more to pull 190 lb ft of torque while laying on the ground under a truck, not to mention getting up and down numerous times. Got it done but what a PITA.

Time for a nap.
 

Mightytalldude

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Installed the slightly longer Mopar Performance LCAs on my Mojave.

Discovered that at 70 some years old I don't quite have the ass any more to pull 190 lb ft of torque while laying on the ground under a truck, not to mention getting up and down numerous times. Got it done but what a PITA.

Time for a nap.
Naps after Jeep mods are the best! 😎
 

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ShadowsPapa

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I think the factory hollowed bar is under sized for a lifted and/or top heavy applications.
Bingo. i'd not make a change on a stock Jeep, there's a reason, the bars are tuned to the vehicle. But change the center of gravity or weight of it, then you have to adjust.......
 

ShadowsPapa

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It’ll absolutely help for a stock truck.
It depends -


A softer rear bar:
1. Increases rear chassis roll
2. Increases rear grip or traction, while decreasing front grip or traction.
3. Less on-power steering.

A stiffer rear bar:
1. Decreases rear chassis roll.
2. Decreases rear traction, while increasing front grip or traction.
3. Faster steering response in high speed corners and chicanes.
4. Increases on-power steering.


So you may impact it in ways that aren't good.
Not sure what you mean as "help" because they are for changing under-steer, over-steer, traction on turns and so on.
A stiffer rear bar will DECREASE rear traction, but increase front grip on turns - so the rear could be more likely to swing out.

A stiffer rear sway bar decreases understeer (more oversteer)
A smaller or less stiff rear sway bar increases understeer (less oversteer).

Really, what you are doing is changing the rate that weight gets transfered to a tire. The stiffer the sway bar, the faster the weight gets transfered to that wheel, and the sooner it reaches its limit and loses traction.

So we can't say generically "it helps".
Helps in what way exactly?
 

Vtur

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Is that only for lifted applications or can it help a stock Rubicon (diesel) that much ?
It might help if your rear end sway or roll more than the front. Unfortunately, i don't remember how it drives at stock height anymore lol
 

Vtur

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It depends -


A softer rear bar:
1. Increases rear chassis roll
2. Increases rear grip or traction, while decreasing front grip or traction.
3. Less on-power steering.

A stiffer rear bar:
1. Decreases rear chassis roll.
2. Decreases rear traction, while increasing front grip or traction.
3. Faster steering response in high speed corners and chicanes.
4. Increases on-power steering.


So you may impact it in ways that aren't good.
Not sure what you mean as "help" because they are for changing under-steer, over-steer, traction on turns and so on.
A stiffer rear bar will DECREASE rear traction, but increase front grip on turns - so the rear could be more likely to swing out.

A stiffer rear sway bar decreases understeer (more oversteer)
A smaller or less stiff rear sway bar increases understeer (less oversteer).

Really, what you are doing is changing the rate that weight gets transfered to a tire. The stiffer the sway bar, the faster the weight gets transfered to that wheel, and the sooner it reaches its limit and loses traction.

So we can't say generically "it helps".
Helps in what way exactly?
That's correct. A stiffer bar also helps with body shifting in a panhard linked suspension as well. Less body rolls equal to less body shifting side to side too.
 

ShadowsPapa

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That's correct. A stiffer bar also helps with body shifting in a panhard linked suspension as well. Less body rolls equal to less body shifting side to side too.
i tend to do "spirited driving" - even with my JT. If a curve is rated with a sign that says 55, I'll do that and more. The ramps between highways here I've done at 75 while others slow down to 45. I'd say mine is just about right.
 

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Brad.Clarkston

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That's interesting my presived issue is rear traction loss.
 

Pismo61

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Installed the slightly longer Mopar Performance LCAs on my Mojave.

Discovered that at 70 some years old I don't quite have the ass any more to pull 190 lb ft of torque while laying on the ground under a truck, not to mention getting up and down numerous times. Got it done but what a PITA.

Time for a nap.
Yep one click of the torque wrench and no more.Captain Im giving her all I got.
 

ShadowsPapa

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Installed the slightly longer Mopar Performance LCAs on my Mojave.

Discovered that at 70 some years old I don't quite have the ass any more to pull 190 lb ft of torque while laying on the ground under a truck, not to mention getting up and down numerous times. Got it done but what a PITA.

Time for a nap.
You need to read the actual torque specs - it's not 190 (that's old from the lift kit instructions, copied and pasted over the years). The real specs are higher.

For the lower, it's simple and you don't need to lay under the truck at all.
 

Jaxmax

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I cheated by putting my wheeled hydraulic jack under the torture wrench and pumped it up over and over until it clicked….Jack
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