What did you do TO your Gladiator today? [ADMIN WARNING: NO POLITICS, NO GUN TALK]

[ShadowsPapa]

I cheated by putting my wheeled hydraulic jack under the torture wrench and pumped it up over and over until it clicked….Jack

Sponsored

 

[Jaxmax]

Bill…..Haha, yeah sorta like that but lazier! Floor Jack takes the work out of it saves the old shoulders , back and is probably much safer for this Jack!

 

[cb4017]

You need to read the actual torque specs - it's not 190 (that's old from the lift kit instructions, copied and pasted over the years). The real specs are higher.

For the lower, it's simple and you don't need to lay under the truck at all.

Hmm, so what are the actual torque specs?

 

[Pismo61]

Can the axle side be done the same way?

 

[Pismo61]

Hmm, so what are the actual torque specs?

103 ft lbs.plus almost half a turn/145 degrees.Wish I had final a number I have them now at 190 ft lbs.I did the 190,I guess I may redo some day.

 

[Vtur]

I've used the specs from the Mopar lift manual without any issues. Imo, it's much easier when you're tired, just turns until clicks lol. New vs old bolts or applying threadlocker can effects degree settings too.

 

[WILDHOBO]

I cheated by putting my wheeled hydraulic jack under the torture wrench and pumped it up over and over until it clicked….Jack

I cheat with an impact wrench until it’s close, then just check with the torque wrench. Too old. I won’t do that with sensitive things, but control arms I definitely will.

 

[WILDHOBO]

Can the axle side be done the same way?

Not really. Not as much room.

 

[WILDHOBO]

103 ft lbs.plus almost half a turn/145 degrees.Wish I had final a number I have them now at 190 ft lbs.I did the 190,I guess I may redo some day.

Control arms will tell you if they’re loose with a clunk when you stop. But they won’t fall off. You’re probably fine.

 

[cb4017]

I've used the specs from the Mopar lift manual without any issues. Imo, it's much easier when you're tired, just turns until clicks lol. New vs old bolts or applying threadlocker can effects degree settings too.

I suspect you are correct and those are the reasons Mopar went with a full torque value on the kit. I used that torque when I installed the kit on my 21 JT. Drove it for a couple of years with no issues.

I found a later edition installation sheet, dated 07-11-23. Torque remains 190 lb ft for the front LCAs.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I suspect you are correct and those are the reasons Mopar went with a full torque value on the kit. I used that torque when I installed the kit on my 21 JT. Drove it for a couple of years with no issues.

I found a later edition installation sheet, dated 07-11-23. Torque remains 190 lb ft for the front LCAs.

Copy and paste. MOPAR does that a lot. Look at the trailer brake controller install sheet for great examples of their loony instructions.
Plus figure in it's for the masses who don't understand torque plus degrees or angle. The torque specs are published here for the entire vehicle. I go by those, they are tighter and how the truck was built, not simplified for consumers.
Do whatever works, I guess. I tend to follow factory/tech specs. But if the lower 190 works out, use it.

 

[Balor]

Installed the slightly longer Mopar Performance LCAs on my Mojave.

Discovered that at 70 some years old I don't quite have the ass any more to pull 190 lb ft of torque while laying on the ground under a truck, not to mention getting up and down numerous times. Got it done but what a PITA.

Time for a nap.

I'm with you brother, getting old sucks (I'm 69). I installed a worksport tonneau cover yesterday and my back is giving me hell today.

 

[cb4017]

Copy and paste. MOPAR does that a lot. Look at the trailer brake controller install sheet for great examples of their loony instructions.
Plus figure in it's for the masses who don't understand torque plus degrees or angle. The torque specs are published here for the entire vehicle. I go by those, they are tighter and how the truck was built, not simplified for consumers.
Do whatever works, I guess. I tend to follow factory/tech specs. But if the lower 190 works out, use it.

I appreciate your thoughts on this. Thanks.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I appreciate your thoughts on this. Thanks.

The only time what you are doing could be "wrong" is if you torque with axle hanging, tires off the ground, or if it comes loose and clunks and you keep doing the same thing over and over.

 

[HooliganActual]

Got my ace rock sliders today. Now getting up the nerve to remove six bolts without breaking them or the retainers.

My apologies for for not being timely as I'm way behind on this thread. I know you've already invested in your Ace Sliders, so I can't try to talk you out of them. All I can do is give you a PSA about them so that you don't end up where I did.

Here's a previous post about itfrom a different thread:

Just a friendly warning about those Ace sliders: The ACE sliders mount using the body mount bolts. Between where they mount and the frame are BIG rubber bushings designed to accommodate the frame flex and not transmit to the tub. This means that if you come down hard on that slider, it will flex upwards, compressing the bushings and striking the tub. You can see the buckled tub in the pic. It also changed the door gaps all the way around the door...

I am grateful it is on the passenger side so that I don’t have to be reminded every time I get in the Jeep.

Just a cautionary tale…

My Wrangler is my "real wheelin' rig"; the Gladiator is built out for overlanding. I was doing a SERIOUSLY hard obstacle and dropped down on that slider HARD, which flexed the slider (because of the rubber bushings) which drove the it up into the Rubi Rails and into the tub. My best advice if you are going to do any serious wheeling with your Gladiator is to get a refund on those sliders, sell them on FB marketplace or wherever and get some that weld to the frame. Maybe find a shop that will weld those Ace sliders in and bypass the standard mounting option.

Sponsored