2020 Max Tow M220 rear differential woes

[Caveman]

So I have a 2020 Max Tow with just over 80K miles. Of those miles, most are highway, perhaps 7.5K of them towing trailers ranging up to 3600 lbs. I had the diff gear oil changed by a dealer at 40K, and after seeing the price, changed them myself last week at a bit over 80K. There were stamped metal fragments clustered at the magnet, maybe 5-6 of them, the largest maybe 2 cm by 1 cm. My truck has an open differential, runs 34" tires, and these looked like pieces of a bearing cage. The truck is currently exhibiting no weird noises or any other symptoms of rear differential trouble.

I'm relatively new to the town I'm presently in, but there's a Jeep dealer less than a mile away that came recommended by an acquaintance. So I dropped it off a week ago, poured the metal fragments into the service advisor's hand, and asked that they have a look and offer some options. I also asked that they reuse the gear oil if it wasn't contaminated, but was told that that wasn't an option.

After seven days on the lot and several calls from me, I finally got a voice message. "There are metal fragments in your rear differential. We recommend replacing the unit. Cost for a refurbished unit and install is $6031 plus tax. Let us know if this is something you want to do."

So I already told them there were metal fragments in the differential. Not sure why it took 7 days and a $392 bill ($150 for 2 quarts of brand new Mopar fluid going into a differential they recommended replacing b/c they wouldn't reuse my "old" fluid) to provide me with this single option, the simplest and most expensive solution.

I've located a shop nearby that specializes in regearing trucks close to me, Outlaw Offroad in Madison, Alabama, that is willing to have a look at it. Anyone here have any experience with them?

There are some lessons here to be learned, I'm sure. The most obvious one is: pay attention to that inner voice that tells you NOT to take your Gladiator to a dealer once it is out of warranty. But there's another one. 80K miles of light use on a Dana/Spicer M220 rear diff? The Chrysler 8.25" rear diff on my XJ had 300K on it when I sold it. And the much maligned Dana 35 on my YJ currently has 150K on it and is running strong...

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[Bandit’s Lair]

That a lot of dollars. I bet the off-road shop can do way better on pricing.

 

[Sunnysideup]

I have been told that the cages can come apart and some people are recommending changing to old style roller bearings instead of the ball and cage stuff... if you have it rebuilt, check into it. I think the bearings that fit are the same that they put in the Ford bronco rear end. I would thing the whole thing could be rebuilt for around 2500.

 

[S JEEPN]

It is always easy to say you should have pulled the cover off and inspected it yourself but of course you had no way to know until afterwards. The dealers near me are just as bad best thing about most offroad shops they usually do a lot of differentials probably are better at it than a dealer who would rarely do anything but a basic gear oil change and the brakes. It would be good to find someone upgrading axles but that rarely happens when you need it. That does suck you never know the real cause of some failures a defect in the bearing, lubrication issue or foreign debris that broke loose or floated from somewhere. The biggest part of the job will be getting all the debris out.

 

[Gvsukids]

I have over 108k on my Max Tow, and recently had the rear diff opened and cleaned without any of the metal you found. I tow a boat and off-road. Previously, I had performed a couple drain and fills without any metal. Now, the engine I previously had was bad and had many issues.

Outlaw Offroad in Madison, Alabama

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/alabama-gladiators.22756/post-956736

 

[Setec641A]

I've read

I have been told that the cages can come apart and some people are recommending changing to old style roller bearings instead of the ball and cage stuff... if you have it rebuilt, check into it. I think the bearings that fit are the same that they put in the Ford bronco rear end. I would thing the whole thing could be rebuilt for around 2500.

I read somewhere that the newer 3rd Gen D44's are having issues because of the bearings. The higher models (Mojave, Rubi) are getting these axles, however the lower models, such as the Sports and Willys are not, at least according to the Jeep B&P sections. Obviously those could be inaccurate, but it is something worth noting.

 

[KWin]

If it makes you feel better I have almost the exact same story except I skipped the dealer. New rear diff needed at 75k on a 2021 max tow. $3k replacement at local shop.

 

[VA6489]

Had my first rear axle grenade at 35K miles. Pinion bearing destroyed. R&R the whole axle. Only to have the replacement axle fail 100 miles later due to piss poor assembly.
Now East Coast Gear D-60 semi float live there.

 

[Falcor]

Just throwing this out there. If you have to spend the money to get it fixed, what about looking into a good used Rubicon rear axle?

 

[BourbonRunner]

Just throwing this out there. If you have to spend the money to get it fixed, what about looking into a good used Rubicon rear axle?

Its a valid point- both use the same housing but the pumpkin and axle shafts are different- LSD vs locking rear end.

It would be more cost effective for the OP since he's at replacement/regear time to install an Eaton E-Locker to get the best of both worlds than install the Rubicon rear.

 

[Dilly’S Willy]

If you have a MaxTow, that rear diff is NOT open/unlocked. It's the "Anti-spin" diff aka a clutched LSD (fails open though).

First, did you sign paperwork for JUST diag, or did you also sign for other work too? Diag DOES require them to drain, open, inspect. But, and I'm not condoning this, if you left it there and weren't waiting for it, they generally will close it up and refill it in case you either don't want the service (so you can take it home) or to be able to move it around under it's own power (again I personally don't condone this behavior/action, as they should have pushed it if it's as bad as they said).

Second, and more importantly, FUCK that dealer pricing! Hit up the Dana/Spicer, grab the OEM hardware kit (<- Link) for the M220, then hit up EATON for their TruTrac LSD (<- Link) and call reputable jeep shops for a quote using those parts. This is my plan when the time comes.

Personally, I'd avoid the OEM lockers. The electronic part is prone to failing (by design) and require "potting" to extend their useful life. They're also ALWAYS open until you lock them, which is NOT ideal for towing and/or inclement weather use, nor is being locked. They're also really expensive to repair if they fail, not the electronic part but the locking pins or teeth, so not really worth the cost imo. For much less or equal, you can have your known good axles used with a better product that NEVER requires rebuilds and CANNOT fail without SERIOUS power and abuse. Just swap the fluid like you have been and it will outlive your whole family.


Side note, Clutch-based LSDs, like ours (I have the same rear diff in my Willys), are "maintenance free" meaning they wear out and you just replace them. But not for $3k, and definitely not $6k. I have one in my wrx (oem, 200k+ miles) and when I did the diff fluid YEARS ago (haven't driven it since) I too had metal chunks come out in the fluid, except mine are bits of teeth of the ring gear too. I knew I was in for a replacement, but not for $2800 at the dealer for a diff known to open when pushed hard, which I do ALL THE TIME. An OEM gear-based LSD (think Torsen) even used was only a few hundred, no shims needed, and bolts in to the stock housing...or swap the STi 6-speed driveline (way better upgrade, but that's another topic) for $6k and get 3 upgraded diffs, driveshafts, axles, transmission, etc.

 

[jebiruph]

If you have a MaxTow, that rear diff is NOT open/unlocked. It's the "Anti-spin" diff aka a clutched LSD (fails open though).

The LSD rear diff was not standard in a 2020 MaxTow, mine didn't come with an LSD.

 

[ALT2870]

I think there was some 21's as well that don't have a rear LSD. If you have the Jeep app you can see what you have, the LSD has been great for me. I'm sitting on an Eaton locker for the front. Might just wait till the 5 year ends here in the Fall.

 

[Bandit’s Lair]

Gotta agree with @Dilly’S Willy about the stock lockers. I’ve avoided them since I broke one in a driveway on my LJ. It was already having connection issues anyway but then it just engaged while I was pulling out of a buds driveway and all I heard was a huge KACHUNK. No lights on hadn’t engaged it for any reason. It just snapped. Switched to ARBs and never looked back.

 

[rharr]

Just take it to a non dealer shop and have them pull the carrier and pinion, It's likely the bearings in the pinion have gone bad, but in doing so they damaged the carrier bearings too. The gears are likely fine. Cars cost money, shit happens. I would think replacing bearings would be less $1500 if no other damage is found. If you are happy with how the jeep works for you, then ignore all the folks telling you swap to a limited slip carrier or swap in rubicon axles. All those things are going to cost money too and if you are not willing or able to do it yourself then it's going to exceed the cost of a bearing replacement job.

Here is the rear pinon bearing upgrade kit to go back to a standard tapered bearing instead of the weird new ball bearing design. Talk to the shop doing the repair first to get their take on using this bearing, some shops might not want to deviate from OEM design.

https://trailforged.com/product/jl-jt-rear-m220-axle-bearing-upgrade-kit/

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