What did you do TO your Gladiator today? [ADMIN WARNING: NO POLITICS, NO GUN TALK]

[Greg75]

That's really sharp! How was the install?

Thanks. I really like them.

Installation is not complicated, but it is time consuming. Figure on a whole day. You have to remove the factory stuff, including the clips, and drill out most of the existing holes a bit for the new hardware. Then, paint the newly exposed metal and wait for drying before bolting everything up. Also, if you have the OEM Rubicon rails, you'll want to cut and recap them front and rear on both sides--they're extra long from the factory and look silly when not obscured by the OEM fenders. I cut mine to match the line of the rears, which extends a bit beyond the body, and to end with the body in the front. Looks great and now there is no way II believe and hope) that they will get hit by the 37s.

Wiring is straightforward. There is an odd side effect, only if you have the factory LEDs: the DRLs now stay dimly lit even when off, due to their extremely low draw (able to run off BUS power) and the fact that they do not answer the ECU with the expected OEM ID code. Also, you will get a turn-signal error, though they work perfectly, which is immediately cleared by a Tazer or whatever programmer you might use. The always on-ish DRLs will not draw enough power to ever drain your battery, even if left on for months without starting the Gladiator. Still, Metalcloak is developing a fix, which they expect to have for early adopters and as a kit option in the coming month or two.

Worth noting: the difference in clearance to the lowest parts of the fenders is huge, even from the Rubicon’s higher fenders. Haven’t measured the exact difference, but I would not be surprised if it is 4" or so, which it appears to be. Time to adjust my bump stops.

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[desertfox73]

Added a Nuthouse Industries Nutzo Expedition Rack today. The quality of the build is amazing, and the guys at Nuthouse are top notch. I would absolutely recommend this group and the rack to anyone. They’ll build pretty much whatever you want. I probably changed my design 10 times and every time they said “no problem”.

 

[Greg75]

Awesome I’m doing the same thing just waiting for my off days, could you share how you decided to wire up the ARB

Wiring was easy. The ARB has one harness with two wires (purple and black) for an included switch, as well as an additional harness that can be used for additional switches if using the compressor for air-activated lockers. The extra harness and switch is still in the box. I simply connected the purple wire to the orange-pink under the passenger side dash for my Auxiliary Switch #3 and grounded the black to the factory post under the carpet near the console in the passenger's footwell. Then, I ran the supplied main/heavy-gauge power(s) (both red) and ground(s) (both black, one thin) to the battery posts.

 

[Troybilt]

Added a Nuthouse Industries Nutzo Expedition Rack today. The quality of the build is amazing, and the guys at Nuthouse are top notch. I would absolutely recommend this group and the rack to anyone. They’ll build pretty much whatever you want. I probably changed my design 10 times and every time they said “no problem”.

That is a nice looking rig and your new rack looks tuff. What kind of plans do you have with it? Work truck or over-landing? I was able to make it out of there without spending any money today but we did discuss a bed topper build I had in mind.

Thanks for the great communications and help with the purchase of your tonneau cover

 

[desertfox73]

That is a nice looking rig and your new rack looks tuff. What kind of plans do you have with it? Work truck or over-landing? I was able to make it out of there without spending any money today but we did discuss a bed topper build I had in mind.

Thanks for the great communications and help with the purchase of your tonneau cover

Hey Troy - glad you got out of there with your wallet intact!

I will be using the truck for off-roading and camping when I can get away. First ‘big’ trip will be this March when I head to Big Bend National Park in Texas for a week of desert off-roaring (my favorite) and canoeing along the border for a few days/nights.

 

[RSK]

Added some vent decals. Pricey, but good quality material.

https://www.pixeldecals.com/shop/JL-Fender-Vent-Blackout-Decal-2C-Pair

Before:

Stage 1:

Stage 2:

Completed:

 

[Texops]

Wiring was easy. The ARB has one harness with two wires (purple and black) for an included switch, as well as an additional harness that can be used for additional switches if using the compressor for air-activated lockers. The extra harness and switch is still in the box. I simply connected the purple wire to the orange-pink under the passenger side dash for my Auxiliary Switch #3 and grounded the black to the factory post under the carpet near the console in the passenger's footwell. Then, I ran the supplied main/heavy-gauge power(s) (both red) and ground(s) (both black, one thin) to the battery posts.

ok sounds good thanks.

 

[BlueCT]

Installed my new Mag Light bracket from Quadratec. This thing is going to nickel and dime me to death. But I love it!!!!

I like the idea of putting a light there. That looks like a mag lite. What size is it 4 cell 6 cell? I want to put one that won’t stretch past the end of the seat.
Thanks

 

[BlueCT]

Took off my Rubi wheels and 33" tires, and installed Overland wheels & 35" tires. Keeps the look close to stock, but gives me a narrow 35" tire that fills up the wheel wells a little better without sticking out any more than stock. I have ran the falkens on my 2500HD for a few years, so i decided to stay with them.

Shout-Out to Sigs Tire in Conover, NC. $249/tire + tax, where discount was $280/tire (before all adding on a lot of fees) + tax.

Are you running any lift? I’m looking for some pictures of a rubi with no lift and 35s.

 

[RSK]

Are you running any lift? I’m looking for some pictures of a rubi with no lift and 35s.

Also papasmurf, how is the road noise roar and handling on the 35’s compared to 33’s? Same, better or worse?

 

[BlueCT]

285 x .75 = mm of section width. X 2 is the total width section on both sides of wheel. Convert to inches is 16.7 inches, + wheel size, 18 is 34.6

33 is 285/75/17

/end training

Can I ask a question. I thought i was following everything you wrote until the very end. If a 285/75 on an 18 inch rim equals a 35 inch wheel setup how does a 1 inch smaller rim make the wheel 2 inches smaller overall? It seems like one should be 34.6 and the other should be 33.6. Are you round up on 18 inch rim to get to 35 and down on the 17 inch rim to get to 33 or am I missing something.
I’m asking because it seems like going from my stock Rubi wheels to these would only add exactly 1 inch. Am I messing up the math somewhere?
Thanks
Chris

 

[Krazy]

33s are 285/70

 

[Hootbro]

I like the idea of putting a light there. That looks like a mag lite. What size is it 4 cell 6 cell? I want to put one that won’t stretch past the end of the seat.
Thanks

I have the same flashlight mount on my Gladiator and anything past a 3 Cell is going to hit the lower door sill trim and bind in the mount.

 

[Rollcast]

I have the same flashlight mount on my Gladiator and anything past a 3 Cell is going to hit the lower door sill trim and bind in the mount.

Can you provide more info or a link? My Google-fu is Google-fail. I can find numerous mounts but not one that looks like that.

 

[Troybilt]

I bought a factory tonneau cover from desertfox73. The install was fairly easy except for one of the bolt holes at the front of the bed had some bed liner in it. I had to run a tap in it to get the bolt to thread. it only took about 20 minuets from start to finish.

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