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What did you do TO your Gladiator today? [ADMIN WARNING: NO POLITICS, NO GUN TALK]

Gatorized

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Installed my Bestop Sunrider
The included instructions may not be as complete as they could be. I had a horrible gap at the rear corners and the gutters did not line up like they should have. Watched this video and found the problem at 5:00 into the video.

The problem was that the top has to be tucked into the back of the door rails after the front bolt is installed but before installing the z-clip and bolting the back of the top to the rail. Lift up on the rail, push the top towards the back and then down until the mating plastic guide from the top slips over then under the mating guide from the rail. I did this step after installing the z-clip so do what works best for you.
Before:

Jeep Gladiator What did you do TO your Gladiator today? [ADMIN WARNING: NO POLITICS, NO GUN TALK] 1931C01B-E793-443F-96DF-2A2078C03B70

After:

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Something I had done earlier after installing the fender welting was to take a 6” pc of the welting, cut a pc of the hotel key I used to poke the welting into place and stuffed it into the end of the 6” pc, then pushed 4-5” of that 6” pc into the gap on the fuel filler door above the cap hanger. The loop holding the cap is too stiff to stay over the hook and tends to let the cap drop onto the fender. Now when I hang the loop over the hook I tug the welting down beside the loop, wedging it into place on the hook. No more banging on the fender!
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Slacks

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First time with all the doors off, thanks to these new Lange Coyote mirrors (safety first). I decided against the hinge mount type and A-pillar, since I may still want to use soft doors in the future. These are quick to add or remove as needed since the mount stays put.


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I also added a little Easter egg, as inspired by another member.

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Racer_X

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I've considered doing mine this way and keeping the stock bumper on. I did a bull bar on my JK and was pretty pleased with it. How hard is it to mount the winch like this, just curious.
I have the stock steel bumper and it's designed to take the winch. It took a day to mount it the way I wanted it. I had to combine 3-4 different videos and instructions. The smittybuilt instructions are correct in mounting the control box first. But it's a pain to get right. The warn winch plate went in correctly without much fuss, came with a license plate bracket, and the design was well thought out. I especially liked the 5 nuts that came with it so the screws from the top winch plate could be reinstalled.

The bolts that came with the winch were too short to mount the fairlead, license plate bracket, and winch plate on the bumper - you need 1.75" bolts. You also need a good set of tools. 1/2" to 3/8" socket adapter, 3/8" to 1/2" adapter, deep sockets, non-deep sockets, wrenches, and extension rods. Reassembly can be challenging, but is very possible with the tools and some finesse. I also highly recommend a right-angle drill with a socket adapter.

The bull bar was brain dead simple - 6 screws. Look on this forum for the warn interrupter kit and mounting. Highly recommended for safety and the mounting to the angle iron worked great. Had the daughter paint it to match the truck because I knew people would be looking at it.
 

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Sazabi19

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Ok, just installed the dead pedal anyways. That was a PITA the way I had to contort myself. Feels like there is plenty of space until you need your head, torso, both arms, and hands down near the pedals.

Jeep Gladiator What did you do TO your Gladiator today? [ADMIN WARNING: NO POLITICS, NO GUN TALK] IMG_20200503_191714


Jeep Gladiator What did you do TO your Gladiator today? [ADMIN WARNING: NO POLITICS, NO GUN TALK] IMG_20200503_191708
 
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Ok, just installed the dead pedal anyways. That was a PITA the way I had to contort myself. Feels like there is plenty of space until you need your head, torso, both arms, and hands down near the pedals.

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Have you installed an iDrive or Tazer JL Mini yet? As a "not very small" man with a destroyed back (motorcycle wreck back in 2008), I found it quite painful and difficult to contort myself the way necessary to install the Tazer. I still have scars on my hands from them getting cut-up trying to reach up under the dash to pull out the factory plugs to put into the Tazer. You have to have woman-hands or asian hands to reach up in there. The iDrive wasn't as bad, and was quicker, but still not fun to contort myself under there. You almost need a quick-release front driver's seat to move it out of the way to install these type of mods.
 

Sazabi19

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Have you installed an iDrive or Tazer JL Mini yet? As a "not very small" man with a destroyed back (motorcycle wreck back in 2008), I found it quite painful and difficult to contort myself the way necessary to install the Tazer. I still have scars on my hands from them getting cut-up trying to reach up under the dash to pull out the factory plugs to put into the Tazer. You have to have woman-hands or asian hands to reach up in there. The iDrive wasn't as bad, and was quicker, but still not fun to contort myself under there. You almost need a quick-release front driver's seat to move it out of the way to install these type of mods.
No, with any luck won't install any mods that require them. I'm trying to keep it simple.
 

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Linx

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Installed Mopar cowel light mounts & 4” 360 rigid spots, & fog lights on the front bumper.
Also my portable ARB twin is now onboard under passenger seat. Waiting on a few fittings to install my air up down system for each wheel well

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How do you like those Rigid spots? I’ve been thinking about putting a pair on the cowl as well but I’ve been back and forth about beam pattern. Spot vs driving.
Also I plan to use similar brackets but the top mounting position on the hood.
 

Incommando

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