When I aired up after today and reconnected the sway bar, I left my Falcon stabilizer on soft. All highway home and 0 issues with Clayton lift.
I have had it on rack a few times unfortunately I live in an area with no off-road shops and ur standard pep boys want to throw it back in factory specs and send u on your way. I am sitting at about 5 degrees but from what I read 6 is the sweet spot.
I also don’t have driveline vibration till I hit about 70. Will be getting the driveshafts done.
That vibration could possibly be the pinion angle, or something else. When I spoke to @claytonoffroad they told me that pretty much the only reason you would need a new drive shaft was at maximum droop when flexing, it shouldn't be an issue at all in 2wd driving at 70 mph. If it actually is an issue where you need a new drive shaft with the 3.5" lift driving on the interstate, I might need to adjust my order because that's going to be an issue for me.
The rear driveshaft spins. I believe I am getting the hum from the rear on highway. I also put a 3/4 spacer dropping the center support bearing to create a better angle. The EVO comes with these shims. I made my own. EVO is the only ones who do. I have not replaced the drive shafts yet but I haven’t started to beat on it. Only trail riding When u see the angle of front driveshaft after u install u will see that the yolk will get damaged over time.
I believe front spins anytime the vehicle is moving including in 2wd.
it doesn’t that’s why the FAD exists
Well that’s interesting. I had never read this and the FAD doesn’t exist on the JK so was unfamiliar with it. Now I want to bypass mine.
Oh I thought you were talking the front. Gotta have a ton of lift before the rear would be an issue I would think. The angle on it isnt too bad. But going to a 1 piece is going to be stronger anyway. Which is why I am going to replace mine.
Lots of options with chromeoly shafts to do that. I spoke to RCV about it & they said having the FAD vs not is only about a 5% diference in strength. It does add a point of failure of course & after seeing one gernade (was stock shafts) I am going to keep mine in place for 2 reasons. One is just the wear & tear on the rest of stuff.. Not turning that front drive shaft & assorted goodies unless they are needed should help the longevity. Two is that its really not hard to get to the actual piece that breaks so leaving it in as an intentional weak point. Plus if it breaks your still able to drive out.
The coil springs we use in our kits are actually designed for an excellent on road driving experience, with the added ability of being able to handle excess weight. A lot of the times springs just focus on one or the other, and you get a kit your happy with but once you load it up, you're left with not so great results. We wanted to create something that is able to handle every aspect of what customers intend on using these trucks for so comfort-ability and load capacity were both important marks to hit when designing these kits!
Highway driving and normal everyday road use will not require you to replace the front driveshaft, as the front driveshaft is only in use while in 4WD, and even then usually takes a beating while the vehicle is being flexed out. Nothing to worry about with that! Any sort of vibrations in the steering are most likely from some sort of alignment/geometry issue and a shop should be able to help you figure out where your issue is coming from!
Shoot me a PM when you get a chance and I can help you out!
