Survey- For those with misfire issues

[ShadowsPapa]

They shouldn't be doing anything with vice grips.
That is not an approved tool for a dealer maintenence shop.

HAHA - that's funny.
I hope a shop doesn't have many vices.

As far as that tool, locking pliers, unless they are Vise Grip brand, I bet you don't find many shops without 'em, or stud removal tools, torches, etc.
Remember, they work on vehicles more than a year old and often many years old. I've seen some fairly old Ram trucks at dealer shops.
So it's still funny to think of a shop without those locking pliers. I've been a mechanic for decades and I have several different sizes and types.

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[Gijohn96]

HAHA - that's funny.
I hope a shop doesn't have many vices.

As far as that tool, locking pliers, unless they are Vise Grip brand, I bet you don't find many shops without 'em, or stud removal tools, torches, etc.
Remember, they work on vehicles more than a year old and often many years old. I've seen some fairly old Ram trucks at dealer shops.
So it's still funny to think of a shop without those locking pliers. I've been a mechanic for decades and I have several different sizes and types.

I agree. I work in an oil refinery and cannot live without my channel locks but as you know, this type of tool damages the heads and does not provide proper torque.

I can almost guarantee the service manuals mention ring pliers, wrench sizes, and other specialized tool but do not mention locking pliers.

Is just looks sloopy

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I agree. I work in an oil refinery and cannot live without my channel locks but as you know, this type of tool damages the heads and does not provide proper torque.

I can almost guarantee the service manuals mention ring pliers, wrench sizes, and other specialized tool but do not mention locking pliers.

Is just looks sloopy

Who the hexx said anything about using them on good bolts or screws? Wow.
OF course we use the correct wrenches on GOOD bolts and nuts and screws.

- and service manuals don't mention wrench sizes. They don't tell you what tools to use - They only mention special tools when needed.
They don't normally mention anything about sizes or wrench types. That's part of knowing how do to things and choose the right tool for a job.
Have you never had a bolt snap off or a screw head get rounded out, or needed to grip and pull on anything? How about large cotter pins that don't want to let loose or are rusted in place?
I can think of at least a half dozen reasons they may have those there.

So you are suggesting that because I have several pairs and have them handy, I am using them instead of wrenches? I don't even use "channel locks" (which is a brand, not type) on good bolts or nuts.

As a professional mechanic myself, I see zero wrong with those locking pliers sitting there.

Come to think of it, I think I might have a service manual or two that shows them being used, perhaps even training books - now I'm going to have to search through them..............

 

[Bama_Swampfox]

I can't imagine what the locking pliers are being used for on a "new" vehicle. Maybe there's a reason but nothing comes to mind..... The other thing that looks odd to me is that it appears the auxiliary battery is still connected.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

............ it appears the auxiliary battery is still connected.

Yes, that's the troubling part.
We have NO clue what the mechanic ran into on that vehicle, why the locking pliers are there - but still they get judged as sloppy. Really nice. People in general are so judgmental these days.

The battery cable issue is what I don't like. The cables are still attached to each other so the aux battery still has ground.

 

[DAVECS1]

Well in addition to those pliers wtf is the 30mm plus open end for. It is a small v6 not a Diesel. I would like to see the pcm data they reviewed that led them to tearing your personal property up.

 

[Gijohn96]

Well in addition to those pliers wtf is the 30mm plus open end for. It is a small v6 not a Diesel. I would like to see the pcm data they reviewed that led them to tearing your personal property up.

The more you look at it, the worse it seems to get. this is a vehicle that is less than a year old in a dealer shop.

 

[cecaa850]

Yes, that's the troubling part.
We have NO clue what the mechanic ran into on that vehicle, why the locking pliers are there - but still they get judged as sloppy. Really nice. People in general are so judgmental these days.

The battery cable issue is what I don't like. The cables are still attached to each other so the aux battery still has ground.

How do you know it's not disconnected at the aux battery?

 

[cecaa850]

I can almost guarantee the service manuals mention ring pliers, wrench sizes, and other specialized tool

Nope. Special tool, yes. That's about it.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Well in addition to those pliers wtf is the 30mm plus open end for. It is a small v6 not a Diesel. I would like to see the pcm data they reviewed that led them to tearing your personal property up.

And you are a certified Jeep tech?

I thank god some people here aren't working in shops in this area.
I mean they see a pic - and pick it all to hell and most have never even had the valve covers off these things - oh, but this must be a HORRIBLE shop because they have locking pliers, and OIH MY GOD!!!! Run look at that f-in' wrench!
This is how too many people act when they see a car for sale on ebay and suddenly they know everything there is to know about the seller, the story behind the ad, or the car itself- but gee, the seller IS ON CRACK! Look at that stupid price! What an IDIOT! They'll never get that!
And suddenly the seller is a complete moron - when the whole story is that the joke is on the critiques - because the seller never intended to SELL the car on eBay, he was using the system to get exposure and will sell the car later for a price negotiated with a real buyer - in the mean time, he got a lot of free advertising around the world.
Same for this photo - people are always arm-chair experts as what SHOULD be sitting there, and hide the kids - what's actually sitting there. Who the hell knows - obviously everyone here and yet I doubt anyone works as a current Jeep tech, let alone EVER as a mechanic.
MY GOD - all the experts as what should be seen and get truck out of there now! The sky is falling, I see a big wrench, and gasp -even worse - PLIERS!

They have NO idea what's apart on that, or WHY, but they sure know everything about it based on a photo from one single angle.

BTW - based on my own metric wrenches right next to me now, I bet that's not over a 26 - and so freakin' what if it is? Good grief, why freak out over it when NO ONE HERE has a clue what's happening or why.
Do we know there's not a single thing under the hood or INSIDE the engine that might require such a thing? Do people realize that wrenches can be used in other ways.
Oh, and later I'll post photos from a TECHNICAL SERVICE MANUAL where is shows - wait for it - locking pliers being used!

Sometimes I swear people just enjoy picking things apart - even if not experts in that specific area.

My challenge to the membership - show that there isn't a single thing under the hood, inside or outside that engine, that could use a 25-27mm wrench (or even larger if I'm wrong on the SCALE, because I just put my 26 up in the engine bay of my JT and it's comparable to that photo wrench in scale)

 

[ShadowsPapa]

How do you know it's not disconnected at the aux battery?

We DON'T and that's the point I just made with my other rant. People are freaking but don't know the WHOLE or REAL story - and most of them aren't even MECHANICS with Jeep engine experiences.
It may be, you are correct.
But if not, then the pic is troubling - on the other hand, could be there's zero reason to even think about.
Yes, even I became an arm-chair Jeep tech for a moment! Mea Culpa.

 

[cecaa850]

We DON'T and that's the point I just made with my other rant. People are freaking but don't know the WHOLE or REAL story - and most of them aren't even MECHANICS with Jeep engine experiences.
It may be, you are correct.
But if not, then the pic is troubling - on the other hand, could be there's zero reason to even think about.
Yes, even I became an arm-chair Jeep tech for a moment! Mea Culpa.

Most likely we were typing at the same time. I didn't see your response above when I wrote mine. It seems we're generally on the same page.

 

[DAVECS1]

Nope not a certified Jeep tech. But I have had a 3.6L apart enuff to know the biggest wrench you need is 24mm on the balancer. And that the engine should not be spun by the balancer but the flex plate, as the balancer bolt is torque to yield. Sorry but I will judge that picture all day, I took care of my own misfire problem by myself and step 1 does not involve any tools, but a fair bit of data. Not a single set of locking pliers were used in the making of this picture.

 

[flatboycms]

Build date: 1/23/2020
Mileage when it first occurred: 448
How many times has it occurred: Twice
What exact codes did it throw:
No code but the JT Powertrain software was not up to date so it was reprogrammed from 68433753AI to 68433753ak per RRT 20-053-2020
CHECK ENGINE LIGHT
U0432 INVALID DATA RECEIVED FROM MULTI AXIS ACCELERATION MODULE "A" (P0020)
BANK 2 CAMSHAFT 1 POSITION ACTUATOR OPEN
CHECKED LEFT BANK CAMSHAFT ACTUATOR CONNECTION ON BOTH INTAKE AND EXHAUST ACTUATORS
CONNECTORS FOUND POOR CONNECTION BETWEEN CONNECTOR PINS AND INTAKE ACTUATOR.
START STOP FEATURE
CHECKED STOP START INTELLIGENT SENSOR STATUS READINESS. READINESS IS SHOWING AT 65%
TESTED MAIN AND AUXILIARY BATTERIES AND AUXILIARY BATTERY FAILED, REPLACED AUX BATTERY
STAR CASE #S1908000083 INSPECTED BOTH 10MM IGNITION CAPACITOR BOLTS. REPAIRED CONNECTOR
HELD GROUND WIRE IN PLACE .
This was what was on my repair order for the visit at 448 miles.
Is the issue on going? Y/N YES again at 836 miles
If so, what has been done to try to solve the issue? see above and will post what second trip reveals
Was the issue ever fully resolved? Y/N not as of 10/4/2020.
At 836 the CEL light flickered with rough vibration under throttle. This was under normal city/stop light
acceleration. Up until then, I had not experienced the rough acceleration. After the gladiator was parked it
was fine. CEL was off. Then a trip later that day on the freeway under "passing" acceleration the rough vibration came back (like running on 3 cylinders) and the CEL came back and stayed on. I got off the freeway as fast as I could safely and after some feathering of the throttle the rough running/,miss went away. The CEL has remained on since them. No automated start stop light as of now.

I read the first 20 pages to get up to speed so if what I post is redundant I apologize.
One post suggested to drive it till something happens. Time will only tell but as you continue to go to the dealer with every issue it will help with laying the ground work with later issues. That is if they last that long.
Also I would believe that the check engine light represents more than one issue so as you drive with the CEL on and other issues arise, unless obvious, you really don't know if something knew was added to the previous issues.
Some people mentioned that the issues did not occur in the winter. I wonder if this has to do with the winter and summer blends of fuel? That brings to question how many of you have to use E85? I am not using E85 but I am encountering similar issues as you all.
One post mentioned better fuel economy after the first trip to the dealer. I too have experienced better fuel mileage after the first trip.
Regarding the break in period, I break in my cars with fluctuating driving habits from aggressive to light. I received the rough running experience at 836 miles while under half to 3/4 throttle.
Too early for lemon law but by the looks of things, it may be what is ahead of me.
One thing for the engineers. I sell European car parts to automotive repair facilities. One day a customer needed a cam adjuster (phaser). The one we sent was in the correct box etc. He installed it and had a miss. He tore down the MBZ 6 cylinder engine 3 times before realizing what was in the cam adjuster box was wrong. The adjuster had the same locating pins between the two variations (separated by a vin) but the timing marks where slightly off. What if in the production of all of these gladiators the wrong notes were made and what was documented as being the correct cam adjuster has been wrong all of this time? I realize this would be very difficult to determine. So R&R of the old with a new adjuster/phaser would yield the same results and you would be going in circles, kind of like right now? Since these are based off of the pentastar they might have the same basic layout as that MBZ engine? Just throwing it out there..

 

[Gijohn96]

Build date: 1/23/2020
Mileage when it first occurred: 448
How many times has it occurred: Twice
What exact codes did it throw:
No code but the JT Powertrain software was not up to date so it was reprogrammed from 68433753AI to 68433753ak per RRT 20-053-2020
CHECK ENGINE LIGHT
U0432 INVALID DATA RECEIVED FROM MULTI AXIS ACCELERATION MODULE "A" (P0020)
BANK 2 CAMSHAFT 1 POSITION ACTUATOR OPEN
CHECKED LEFT BANK CAMSHAFT ACTUATOR CONNECTION ON BOTH INTAKE AND EXHAUST ACTUATORS
CONNECTORS FOUND POOR CONNECTION BETWEEN CONNECTOR PINS AND INTAKE ACTUATOR.
START STOP FEATURE
CHECKED STOP START INTELLIGENT SENSOR STATUS READINESS. READINESS IS SHOWING AT 65%
TESTED MAIN AND AUXILIARY BATTERIES AND AUXILIARY BATTERY FAILED, REPLACED AUX BATTERY
STAR CASE #S1908000083 INSPECTED BOTH 10MM IGNITION CAPACITOR BOLTS. REPAIRED CONNECTOR
HELD GROUND WIRE IN PLACE .
This was what was on my repair order for the visit at 448 miles.
Is the issue on going? Y/N YES again at 836 miles
If so, what has been done to try to solve the issue? see above and will post what second trip revelas
Was the issue ever fully resolved? Y/N not as of 10/4/2020.
At 836 the CEL light flickered with rough vibration under throttle. This was under normal city/stop light
acceleration. Up until then, I had not experienced the rough acceleration. After the gladiator was parked it
was fine. CEL was off. Then a trip later that day on the freeway under "passing" acceleration the rough vibration came back (like running on 3 cylinders) and the CEL came back and stayed on. I got off the freeway as fast as I could safely and after some feathering of the throttle the rough running/,miss went away. The CEL has remained on since them. No automated start stop light as of now.

I read the first 20 pages to get up to speed so if what I post is redundant I apologize.
One post suggested to drive it till something happens. Time will only tell but as you continue to go to the dealer with every issue it will help with laying the ground work with later issues. That is they last that long.
Also I would believe that the check engine light represents more than one issue so as you drive with the CEL on and other issues arise, unless obvious, you really don't know if something knew was added to the previous issues.
Some people mentioned that the issues did not occur in the winter. I wonder if this has to do with the winter and summer blends of fuel? That brings to question how many of you have to use E85? I am not using E85 but I am encountering similar issues as you all.
One post mentioned better fuel economy after the first trip to the dealer. I too have experienced better fuel mileage after the first trip.
Regarding the break in period, I break in my cars with fluctuating driving habits from aggressive to light. I received the rough running experience at 836 miles while under half to 3/4 throttle.
Too early for lemon law but by the looks of things, it may be what is ahead of me.
One thing for the engineers. I sell European parts to repair facilities. One day a customer needed a cam adjuster (phaser). The one we sent was in the correct box etc. He installed it and had a miss. He tore down the MBZ 6 cylinder engine 3 times before realizing what was in the cam adjuster box was wrong. The adjuster had the same locating pins between the two variations (separated by a vin) but the timing marks where slightly off. What if in the production of all of these gladiators the wrong notes were made and what was documented as being the correct cam adjuster has been wrong all of this time? I realize this would be very difficult to determine. So R&R of the old with a new adjuster/phaser would yield the same results and you would be going in circles, kind of like right now? Since these are based off of the pentastar they might have the same basic layout as that MBZ engine? Just throwing it out there..

These vehicles are not made for E-85 and it is not recommended in them. Winter blend gasoline is, for lack of a better term, lighter. The allowable vapor pressure is higher, thus allowing refiners to add butane into the blend. The butane has a higher flammability range but produces less energy. I am not sure if this is relevant to the P-0300 issue. I have always had these issues when in gear and putting a mild load on the engine. Having the A/C on max has also triggered it.

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