What did you do TO your Gladiator today? [ADMIN WARNING: NO POLITICS, NO GUN TALK]

[KurtP]

https://rippmods.com/collections/je...-jl-gladiator-3-6-high-performance-coil-packs

Im pretty excited to try em. Gonna be a bear to install though

Interesting. Reading the reviews there are several that claim staying in 8th gear more easily. Im kind of surprised by that and need to give it some more thought, but its too frequent in the reviews to dismiss out of hand.

Be interested in your thoughts once you get them in. If you have time, find a highway test loop, pick two points and set the cruise and clear the economy gauge, and count the number of times you drop out of 8th. Then repeat with the coil packs. And yeah, install looks fun. Haba

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[PLEG1972]

I finally got several projects fully completed (3 more still in the works and all most done) today...ADHD had me jumping around for a few months.

Renogy: DC to DC charger, 3000W inverter
ARB: dual air compressor
Up Down air system: 4 wheel air supply and I added an aux drop on the outside of my topper
Last: Power Box I built...has two 100Ah AGM batteries.

 

[WhatExit?]

Lights, lights, lights...

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/jtr-le-build-up-with-no-letdown.25457/post-650283

 

[Gren71]

Interesting. Reading the reviews there are several that claim staying in 8th gear more easily. Im kind of surprised by that and need to give it some more thought, but its too frequent in the reviews to dismiss out of hand.

Be interested in your thoughts once you get them in. If you have time, find a highway test loop, pick two points and set the cruise and clear the economy gauge, and count the number of times you drop out of 8th. Then repeat with the coil packs. And yeah, install looks fun. Haba

I suffer from this thing I call “gold fish brain” tbi got me all fed up! So fingers crossed I remember to haha

 

[johnparjr]

Do people who have this take it off if getting a load of mulch or stone etc ?

Nope just clean it off

 

[syreeves]

For the engine/power/economy?? Sure:

In order of importance;
-Pulsar running 91oct performance tune
-Mopar intake + AFE conical filter
-AWE exhaust
-tonneau cover

But also remember i dont drive that fast. I dont “hypermile” but i do drice conservatively. Easy acceleration mostly; prodigious use of cruise control, and i dont drive more than 5over or more than 70. That number was also pure highway sans a few stop lights on rt29.

Running 37x12.5r17 falken at3w on AEV JT wheels. Stock Mojave suspension. 4.88’s go in tomorrow; lift later this week.

For intake pics/info:

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...take-system-recommendations.36386/post-638523

The “how” of it working:

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...-do-to-your-gladiator-today.23705/post-649553

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...-do-to-your-gladiator-today.23705/post-649576


Hope that helps.

I don't understand how this is possible. My brand new (1400 miles so far) 2021 JTR, 6MT, 35s on 2 in Mopar lift can barely maintain 70mph in 6th. Yesterday, in a headwind and very gentle grade (I live in MN FFS!) and pulling an empty trailer (see pic below) I could not maintain 65mph in 5th! I had the pedal pinned to the carpet. WTF? I'm getting about 12mpg. Some dude in texas says his rig is FASTER than stock with 40s. Am I missing something here? My speedo was corrected for tiresize by my dealership - they did the install. I get that maybe there is some breakin period but c'mon - I'm never going to see 20MPG.

PS - this is not a complaint. My previous vehicle (LR 2003 Disco II) got 11mpg on 33s and it took a quart of oil every 500 miles. And I had to add approx 1/4 bottle of Marvel Mystery Oil every 2qts so basically about 4 tanks of gas - less than 1,000 miles. I am fine with the aerodynamics of a brick but it just feels like I am missing something here... help?

 

[DAVECS1]

I don't understand how this is possible. My brand new (1400 miles so far) 2021 JTR, 6MT, 35s on 2 in Mopar lift can barely maintain 70mph in 6th. Yesterday, in a headwind and very gentle grade (I live in MN FFS!) and pulling an empty trailer (see pic below) I could not maintain 65mph in 5th! I had the pedal pinned to the carpet. WTF? I'm getting about 12mpg. Some dude in texas says his rig is FASTER than stock with 40s. Am I missing something here? My speedo was corrected for tiresize by my dealership - they did the install. I get that maybe there is some breakin period but c'mon - I'm never going to see 20MPG.

PS - this is not a complaint. My previous vehicle (LR 2003 Disco II) got 11mpg on 33s and it took a quart of oil every 500 miles. And I had to add approx 1/4 bottle of Marvel Mystery Oil every 2qts so basically about 4 tanks of gas - less than 1,000 miles. I am fine with the aerodynamics of a brick but it just feels like I am missing something here... help?

What differential gear set do you have.

 

[mx5red]

An expensive beer coaster. But for real, it can be used as a cutting board, and a flat surface for camping/cooking.

If you ever try to set something on your rippled tailgate and it falls over or falls off, then this seems worth it.

 

[mx5red]

Ive smattered some of the information around in various threads and touch on it in one of my intake review posts. I havent made a dedicated thread as to whats happening in the ECU; because almost always descends into some sort of argument based on people being so predisposed to the idea bolt ons dont work anymore or its too technical for people to really care. Youre the first person thats actually asked, so I’ll answer.

Im admittedly not writing ecu code anymore and havent for many years; so there are more than likely some nuances to tuning that have changed that Im ignorant to.

But, in short,the basics are that most ECU’s run 2 separate tables of injection modes in modern FI cars. Ford ecoboost is a notable exception to this, as they run live wide band at all times.

Closed Loop operation is when the ecu is using all available sensors to determine which fueling table to use and how much to enrich. Tps, “load”, air flow, temperature, etc etc etc, and O2 sensors. O2 sensors are the big ones, and have the power to over ride every single other input to add or remove fuel. So when youre at part throttle low load cruise; the o2 sensors on vehicles like ours is looking for a narrow band of a voltage signal that represents 14.7 afr, or stoich. This is mandated by the government; and i believe the regulation is so restrictive now that the mfg actually has to show that engine damage could occur before enrichment can start. Im just hitting wave tops here, but think about that how a truck is used. High heat, high load, hauling, towing etc. and Jeep didnt start enriching fuel until something like 5,000rpm. That margin had to come from somewhere, and since they werent going to add fuel, they de-tuned the power out of it and restricted the intake size compared to other versions of the 3.6. Mfg’s do this all the time.

So during closed loop operation is where people get the idea that “the ecu just dials it all out” and this is not accurate. When those o2 sensors are active, its dialing to 14.7, not a hp number. So if the intake and exhaust are flowing more and leaning out the engine, it will adjust fuel to add back until 14.7 is hit again. This is why my mileage is so good in part. More fuel molecules is more power even if the mix is still 14.7. I stay in 8th more readily and easily, and dont have to use as much throttle angle or downshifts. That fuel adjustment is called Short Term Fuel Trim or STFT. Over time, the ecu will store these changes to Long Term Fuel Trim or LTFT tables. That takes a few drive cycles how many depends on fuel trim adaptation sensitivity within the ecu. But once fueling is added to LTFT, it is now applied to all fueling tables to include openloop fueling tables until the ecu learning is reset. open Loop fueling means the ecu is no longer referencing O2 sensors; and going off fueling tables for throttle angle, rpm, temp, pressure etc. so as you drive and drive and drive you will generally add fuel to the ecu tables, and as long as the ecu has sufficient authority in adaptation tables to do so, it will continue to add fueling until eventually STFt Goes to zero. The ecu wants 14.7 at cruise from the o2 sensor and wants to change the tables in the ecu until it no longer makes big corrections. So yes. If you bolt on an intake and immediately run a dyno on a vehicle thats already tuned too lean for power, you will lose power as we have seen on the SB dyno. Id bet money if he did that dyno after a month of driving, the print would be higher. But since he wasnt controlling fueling actively, and the internet demands damn near same-instant dynos because people dont know how they work, it means you dont have time for adaptation if youre looking to sell or get InstaCred.

There is a video on youtube from an australian tuning company that explains exactly what is happening with fuel vs power; i dont remember the name but i think you could find it by searching “air fuel vs peak torque” or something like that. Edit: found it. Link is as the bottom.

So the reason i did tuning first was to correct the afr base tables of the ecu so that at wot there was enough fuel to actually make more power. Its why even on 37’s, today when a 2door jl tried to squeeze me out on a merge i dropped the pedal and easily walked right on by. Now my enrichment starts way earlier than 5k, so the intake and exhaust are actually helping a bit more.

Tuning properly for the fuel makes the bigger difference; but afterwords the improvements of intake and exhaust will be more readily felt and apparent, especially on an intake snorkel tube and airbox as small as ours. Youll still see improvements, but the ecu will only adapt fuel tables probably about 3% on that; when the ecu tune i bet is adjusting it something like 15%. Its true that intakes and exhaust can be made sufficiently efficient as to not allow a gain with the stock cam/manifolds/TB/heads etc...but thats not the case we have here with our motors. Intake and exhaust will both make power; especially if youre tuned somehow.

Hope that helps. I ended up having to make a couple edits.

Wow, this guy is way smarter me!

 

[mx5red]

Interesting. Reading the reviews there are several that claim staying in 8th gear more easily. Im kind of surprised by that and need to give it some more thought, but its too frequent in the reviews to dismiss out of hand.

Be interested in your thoughts once you get them in. If you have time, find a highway test loop, pick two points and set the cruise and clear the economy gauge, and count the number of times you drop out of 8th. Then repeat with the coil packs. And yeah, install looks fun. Haba

JK gear and gadgets on YouTube installed those then had an engine malfunction... may be user error but just saying

 

[syreeves]

What differential gear set do you have.

Factory 4.10 - same as what comes with all Rubicons. One of the reasons I thought I'd be OK with 35s was that I had 4.10s, and I didn't want to go any taller. 2000rpm in 5th gear is 60mph. As you know there is not much power below 2000 rpms. I find myself using 4th for anything between 35 and 60. Below 35mph 4th gear is OK for steady speed but I need 3rd if I want moderate acceleration. And I don't want to jump to 2nd because there is a huge gap in the ratios between 2nd and 3rd.

At the end of the day I'm fine with the gear ratios and I accept the compromises with 35s but I see so many JTs here with 37s and 40s on stock gears and I can't see how the reduction in power or acceleration is acceptable.

 

[Kevin_D]

...lockable Sukemichi hood latches...

I had a set of those. They made it about 2 months before the stainless steel started to rust & look like doo-doo. The manufacturer admitted they needed to use a higher grade of stainless.
I put my stock latches back on, and now rely on the alarm system to deter entry.

Kevin

 

[KurtP]

I don't understand how this is possible. My brand new (1400 miles so far) 2021 JTR, 6MT, 35s on 2 in Mopar lift can barely maintain 70mph in 6th. Yesterday, in a headwind and very gentle grade (I live in MN FFS!) and pulling an empty trailer (see pic below) I could not maintain 65mph in 5th! I had the pedal pinned to the carpet. WTF? I'm getting about 12mpg. Some dude in texas says his rig is FASTER than stock with 40s. Am I missing something here? My speedo was corrected for tiresize by my dealership - they did the install. I get that maybe there is some breakin period but c'mon - I'm never going to see 20MPG.

PS - this is not a complaint. My previous vehicle (LR 2003 Disco II) got 11mpg on 33s and it took a quart of oil every 500 miles. And I had to add approx 1/4 bottle of Marvel Mystery Oil every 2qts so basically about 4 tanks of gas - less than 1,000 miles. I am fine with the aerodynamics of a brick but it just feels like I am missing something here... help?

Dont over-think it. The stock tune is really that bad.....

I cant speak to the guy saying he is “faster on 40s”, and towing a trailer is going to be a tough spot at any time. But the tune and subsequently the airbox on these trucks are big restrictions. I also personally think they should have come with 4.33’s stock.

 

[KurtP]

Factory 4.10 - same as what comes with all Rubicons. One of the reasons I thought I'd be OK with 35s was that I had 4.10s, and I didn't want to go any taller. 2000rpm in 5th gear is 60mph. As you know there is not much power below 2000 rpms. I find myself using 4th for anything between 35 and 60. Below 35mph 4th gear is OK for steady speed but I need 3rd if I want moderate acceleration. And I don't want to jump to 2nd because there is a huge gap in the ratios between 2nd and 3rd.

At the end of the day I'm fine with the gear ratios and I accept the compromises with 35s but I see so many JTs here with 37s and 40s on stock gears and I can't see how the reduction in power or acceleration is acceptable.

Some people arent as bothered by an active transmission is my only conclusion. My truck is getting 4.88’s as we speak and im worried its not ENOUGH gear.....even though ive made a lot of drivability improvements, i still knew it would need regearing.

 

[syreeves]

Some people arent as bothered by an active transmission is my only conclusion. My truck is getting 4.88’s as we speak and im worried its not ENOUGH gear.....even though ive made a lot of drivability improvements, i still knew it would need regearing.

Would be interested to know how that goes. Am I correct new gears are about $2K or less installed? Or more?

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