Can you build a better Jeep and save money by starting with a Sport S?

[XJADDICTION]

What makes it more capable? I mean you already said your crawl ratios are worse.

I have 2 Rubicons (also a JKUR). The rear locker stuck once in its lifetime.

This can go on forever and I do like a rubicon it’s just not for me and I’ve owned one. A brand new 2016 JKUHR. I used it off road and I had issues with sway bar dc and the rear locker two times. Look on the internet rubicon lockers and sway bars are a known problem. BUT the Rubicon is an off the shelf beast for those that don’t like to personalize a rig. Let’s get this fact straight, aftermarket is unbelievable for the JT!

Scenario #1- I’m not going to heavy Rock crawl my JT. I bought it to tow and to wheel confidently, ultimately the Rubicon trail etc. Over many years I’ve done fine without 4:1 t-case by using the gearing in the axles. I’ve Rock crawled for years and now I mainly camp, mountain bike and ride dirt bikes. I don’t need a 4:1 t-case and I will have lockers, stronger axles, sway bar DC front and rear manual flip switch type and a lift that will be more reliable than a stock rubicon and IMOP reliability = Capability

BUT if I change my mind I haven’t wasted Rubicon money.

Scenario 2- I’ll have stronger parts, read, more reliable parts than a stock rubicon in first scenario.

Then next case scenario if I decide to take
My JT next level with 4:88 gears ARB locked, with flip switch sway bars DC’s, 6.4 Hemi, Dana 60 and Dana 80, with an Atlas and let’s see who is more capable then. Hello ?

No not apples to apples but, well that’s why I don’t need a Rubicon (a lot of us don’t need the Rubicon) and I am happy with the JT MT. I’ve built rigs for years, I’ve owned an off the shelf very capable Rubicon and enjoyed it just fine. This JT MT I have, I wheeled stock with street tires and no lockers or 4:1 t-case and it is incredibly capable. This JT IS my favorite Jeep ever... and I’ve owned a Scrambler! ?

The sad thing here is the OP is not being helped by some Rubicon owners posting on this thread.

Back to the OP’s original question, Can you build a better more capable than a rubicon for less $$

Answer... yes you can 100%

With just a lift and bigger tires than a stock Rubicon even the sport s without 4:10 gears, you could tackle a more difficult trail than the Rubicon just because they potentially would be too low to get through a gate keeper to start a trail. Add a winch to your lift and larger than stock Rubicon tires vs stock Rubicon with no winch and Bam! Way more capable than the stock Rubicon.

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[Rubi_Rhod]

Well -

I think this is an apt show of the general values. So you spent $10k on the upgrades but got $5k back.

That said, if you but $10k into a sport, you probably won’t see much of that back in resale or trade.

So if you keep your sport a sport and just drive it, yeah, likely you will have solid resale as its an unmodified Jeep, and as its the cheapest on the lot or classifieds, market conditions dictate that you can raise the price a little as most everything else will cost more. And those at the high end, ala Rubi’s have to take a hit as the number of cheaper sports means more competition.

But if you modify it, those costs are yours to bear and theres no general consensus on “used prts and someone elses build” for pricing so that 101% helps, but it won’t recoup that $10k in gears and aftermarket choices.

 

[BLK HOLE]

I think this is an apt show of the general values. So you spent $10k on the upgrades but got $5k back.

That said, if you but $10k into a sport, you probably won’t see much of that back in resale or trade.

So if you keep your sport a sport and just drive it, yeah, likely you will have solid resale as its an unmodified Jeep, and as its the cheapest on the lot or classifieds, market conditions dictate that you can raise the price a little as most everything else will cost more. And those at the high end, ala Rubi’s have to take a hit as the number of cheaper sports means more competition.

But if you modify it, those costs are yours to bear and theres no general consensus on “used prts and someone elses build” for pricing so that 101% helps, but it won’t recoup that $10k in gears and aftermarket choices.

None of it matters to me - I don’t sell my vehicles.

 

[BLK HOLE]

This can go on forever and I do like a rubicon it’s just not for me and I’ve owned one. I used it off road and I had issues with sway bar dc and the rear locker two times. Look on the internet rubicon lockers and sway bars are a known problem. BUT the Rubicon is an off the shelf beast for those that don’t like to personalize a rig. Let’s get this fact straight, aftermarket is unbelievable for the JT!

Scenario #1- I’m not going to heavy Rock crawl my JT. I bought it to tow and to wheel confidently, ultimately the Rubicon trail etc. Over many years I’ve done fine without 4:1 t-case by using the gearing in the axles. I’ve Rock crawled for years and now I mainly camp, mountain bike and ride dirt bikes. I don’t need a 4:1 t-case and I will have lockers, stronger axles, sway bar DC front and rear manual flip switch type and a lift that will be more reliable than a stock rubicon and IMOP reliability = Capability

BUT if I change my mind I haven’t wasted Rubicon money.

Scenario 2- I’ll have stronger parts, read, more reliable parts than a stock rubicon in first scenario. Then if I decide to take
My JT next level with 4:88 gears ARB locked, with flip switch sway bars DC’s, 6.4 Hemi, Dana 60 and Dana 80, with an Atlas and let’s see who is more capable then. Hello ?

No not apples to apples but, well that’s why I don’t need a Rubicon (a lot of us don’t need the Rubicon) and I am happy with the JT MT. I’ve built rigs for years, I’ve owned an off the shelf very capable Rubicon and enjoyed it just fine. This JT MT I have, I wheeled stock with street tires and no lockers or 4:1 t-case and it is incredibly capable. This JT IS my favorite Jeep ever... and I’ve owned a Scrambler! ?

The sad thing here is the OP is not being helped by some Rubicon owners posting on this thread.

Back to the OP’s original question, Can you build a better more capable than a rubicon for less $$

Answer... yes you can 100%

With just a lift and bigger tires than a stock Rubicon even the sport s without 4:10 gears, you could tackle a more difficult trail than the Rubicon just because they potentially would be too low to get through a gate keeper to start a trail. Add a winch to your lift and larger than stock Rubicon tires vs stock Rubicon with no winch and Bam! Way more capable than the stock Rubicon.

Stronger only means more reliable if you’re pushing passed the limits of the Rubicon. Otherwise it means jack.

 

[Lives The Dream]

That price for a 93 Wrangler S is probably greater than when it was new.

[/QUOTE]

 

[XJADDICTION]

Stronger only means more reliable if you’re pushing passed the limits of the Rubicon. Otherwise it means jack.

Yes, that is what I am saying, plus the wear on stronger aftermarket parts vs stock Rubicon Jeep parts also makes the Jeep more reliable with the aftermarket.

 

[Rubi_Rhod]

None of it matters to me - I don’t sell my vehicles.

As this is a thread to compare the total value of building a Glad to compete vs an out of the box Rubi to your spec, you posting resale values means that it is a part of the discussion.

If you don’t sell, that’s totally fine, totally build to your hearts content knowing that you will keep it. And thevalue more that the sum of it’s parts in personal value.

But for those that may not forever keep, it’s important to know that distinction. That yes, a stock sport does retain very solid value, but the parts added to be cross compared to a Rubi, isn’t in those numbers.

 

[jwilson2899]

Everybody keeps talking about this $10k or more difference in price, which simply is not true. I took a Sport S with Max tow and added the same equipment to it that brings it even to a base Rubicon with automatic. The difference is about $6k. Beyond that it’s whatever options you add, almost all of which are available on both models. For me the 6k got me lockers, disconnects, and low range case, all of which I use, and covered under warranty.

 

[869 KPH]

The difference is about $6k. Beyond that it’s whatever options you add, almost all of which are available on both models. For me the 6k got me lockers, disconnects, and low range case, all of which I use, and covered under warranty.

This guy gets it.

 

[Summitsearcher]

At the end of the day we can all agree it’s a “Jeep Thing”. Not a “Mohave, Rubicon, Overland, Willy’s, Sport S, Sport Thing” We are a Jeep Family of enthusiasts no matter what we drive or why we drive them. I don’t care if you add just a stubby antenna, your Jeep is built unique and no longer bought. Ok Fam? Can somebody please pass the effin potatoes?

 

[Daniel Snider]

This is simply not true and people use this statement all the time to justify purchasing the Rubicon.

Who goes out to buy a vehicle thinking about resale anyway? Honestly, that is not a smart approach if you are purchasing a quickly depreciating asset thinking that the one with all the bells and whistles will have a better resale value after you just paid top dollar for your purchase. You are saying this to justify a purchase and IMOP this is a false statement.


Well, I would have to disagree..... Completely!

I 100% went in for resale value, my last Rubicon I purchased new for 36k and sold 2 years later with 25k miles on it for 42k (yes I added 5k worth of goodies to it ) but made money, or at least broke even on it. I could not have done that with anything bur a Rubicon.

 

[TheSolarWizard]

a sport S with stronger aftermarket lockers, swaybar disconnects (I chose Apex AutoLynx) AND geared properly for larger tire size is still a bit cheaper than a rubicon.

for me the deciding factor was not cost but the higher payload/tow rating on the diesel. In terms of PERCENTAGE, the sport S also depreciates slower

this is just personal preference but for me cosmetically I prefer The smooth hood, single piece grill and lower fenders

 

[TommyGp]

I personally have built multiple rigs, one VERY extensively and very hardcore. Custom suspension (not a kit), custom cage (again, not a kit) custom every-damn-thing. I loved doing it and learned a lot doing so. I may build another one day when time allows. If I do, it’ll start as a sport for all the reasons you stated.

For this rig I chose a Rubicon for 3 reasons:

1) it fits my plans for mild trails and daily driven
2) given that this is my daily and I do want to wheel occasionally, and since I’ll have a payment, I wanted the extra control that low range and lockers provide
3) by the time I upgraded several of the features on the Sport the increased cost wasn’t that much, and this is the first brand new vehicle I have purchased for myself in over 20 years, so I bought exactly what I wanted.

I throw no shade on anyone for buying any of the various models or using them in whatever capacity they choose. It’s a free country and it’s not my money to tell anyone how to spend.

I think as far as resale goes a Sport S is the perfect purchase. When I was looking into lease values the residual on a Sport S was better (as a % of purchase price), which is why lease ads are always based on the Sport S.

 

[Brfertig [HACKED ACCOUNT]]

Everybody keeps talking about this $10k or more difference in price, which simply is not true. I took a Sport S with Max tow and added the same equipment to it that brings it even to a base Rubicon with automatic. The difference is about $6k. Beyond that it’s whatever options you add, almost all of which are available on both models. For me the 6k got me lockers, disconnects, and low range case, all of which I use, and covered under warranty.

You haven't seen the prices on Guam. I added ARB Lockers, forged 35 spline shafts, 4.88 gears, disconnects, switches, fenders, rockers, winch, bumpers, suspension for <8k and still have 22k in my pocket compared to nicely optioned rubi on Island. ?

This ad is from today. ?

 

[Brfertig [HACKED ACCOUNT]]

That’s not capability tho. I mean I guess it’s “capable” of taking on more loads but that’s not what one usually means when they say more capable. I took it to mean that it could do more than a rubicon.

These 3rd gen wide track axles are strong AF. Those axle housings are thicker and stronger than base models and really the axles are already half D60s already. Glad you found some that are that thick all the way down the shaft tho. But the new D44 WT axles can already handle a lot. I haven’t seen many people have problems with them and I’ve wheeled alongside 40s plenty of times.

I was also one of the first to buy a Gladiator on Guam. It was a challenge to see how efficient I could be with shipping. I built the trucks axles, as stated in the video, because the advantek has not seen a lot of use yet. It's still relatively untested. It's not like jeep forums of old where we had all the data on hand. I was starting from nothing and taking all the risks to build a better sport. I think it was fun and here to share with others the Sport can handle 40s. The jump to Rubicon in not a very big one in the strength department, they have the same D44 M220 and M210. So why not build a sport stronger for less money. That was the process in my mind. Especially on Guam, as you can see.

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