MojaveAZ2020
Well-Known Member
That's intense antena install as well! ;-) lolInstalled a couple removable rear ladder racks. I figure I could strap a Kayak on and if need be carry lumber longer than 8’.
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That's intense antena install as well! ;-) lolInstalled a couple removable rear ladder racks. I figure I could strap a Kayak on and if need be carry lumber longer than 8’.
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Contacted my insurance company
was rear ended by a SUV that was rear ended by another PU truck
looks like I’ll need a new tailgate and rear bumper at least. Drove home fine, but do have concerns about suspension, alignment, drivetrain stresses that may not show up right away.
The SUV driver said he wanted to get a Jeep after seeing his damage compared to mine.
And of course the instigator (PU driver) doesn’t have insurance………
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Great receptIon !That's intense antena install as well! ;-) lol
Yes, they cover the seam well, especially in the middle. They don’t curve with the body as well as the factory rails did, so there are larger gaps at the front and back, but only noticeable when you get up close. These are bedliner coated and I like that better due to the look and the extra grip, but up to you as to whether it’s worth the extra $ over the black powder coat. I got a good deal on them from Tactik on Amazon, but actually getting them was a headache. They send me the wrong ones twice.Do they cover the gap below the door and the frame? Are they textured black or bed liner coated? What’s better?
Ahhh, so the molle panels could be drilled to fit parts under the bed cover, didn't think of that option.You'd need to drill the boards in a different spot. I just used the factory holes.
But if you look here, it could possibly work.
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thanks! Depending on what boards are used and where you place the mounts they sit in different locations. I have the MK2 MaxTrax boards.Ahhh, so the molle panels could be drilled to fit parts under the bed cover, didn't think of that option.
I think @eight13design has done a great job with these panels.
Here's my cutoff with replacement LED bulbs in my halogen light housing. It is not as sharp as the Oracle replacements but at 1/10th of the price it has been a great investment. I have 4.5" Evo springs and 40" tires and my light beam is lowered substantially to prevent blinding oncoming traffic due to the heighth of my truck. It is 100% better than the factory halogen bulbs which is what most people are trying to achieve.I addressed this already later in the thread. You're likely enjoying brighter lights from your driver seat at the cost of terrible light throw and blinding oncoming traffic. Post your headlight cutoffs and compare them with the @Oracle Designs cutoff or OEM Mopar cutoff
Here's a Tacoma forum write-up
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/why-leds-should-not-be-run-in-halogen-reflectors.454371/
Are you lifted? I'm certainly no expert here but on my JKU Rubicon I had the same problem. Installed an AEV 2.5" lift and was constantly popping the passenger side even when disconnected. The "trick" on the JK's was to pull the rear disconnects and install them up front and then buy replacements for the rear.
That said, if you are lifted, you're disconnect links may not actually be long enough. The sway bar arm connected to the link should be parallel to the ground when not flexed.
Here's my cutoff with replacement LED bulbs in my halogen light housing. It is not as sharp as the Oracle replacements but at 1/10th of the price it has been a great investment. I have 4.5" Evo springs and 40" tires and my light beam is lowered substantially to prevent blinding oncoming traffic due to the heighth of my truck. It is 100% better than the factory halogen bulbs which is what most people are trying to achieve.
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