Dealership said NO to recalibrating to 37s? How is it typically done?

[ShadowsPapa]

Is there anymore detail in how to do the rolling diameter measurement ? or is it just that simple ? Also, you mentioned a bypass cable and bluetooth adapter.. could you point me in the right direction, I would like to learn more about the JSCAN option. I have the TAZER, but I like what you are saying about it.

This is the security bypass cable. Without it you can only read things, you cannot actually change things. It bypasses the "firewall" up under the dash.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07S91VZXT

This is the OBDII bluetooth adapter I originally bought. It works for most things but some settings can't be changed without a higher speed device -
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XGB4873

I later bought this adapter to access other areas - my wife would smack me for not buying the very best I could buy the first time out but then I thought the other would do. Well, it would, but me being me, I wanted to access the far side of the universe...........
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JFRFJG6

You only need ONE of the above adapters. For most the cheaper one would do most things just fine.

Sponsored

 

[NachoRuby]

My dealership wanted to sell me a $100 "service contract" where they would add the custom tire size to my sales record in the FCA system. If they ever do a PCM flash/update, those settings are tied to the VIN (like sales codes)

They are finding more and more ways to make money...

Yep, been there, done that. Mine was $125. The service contract is with Chrysler, or rather Stellantis though, not the dealership. My tire size actually shows up on my vehicle specs now, as a dealer installed option. I have a tazer, but went ahead and paid the service fee anyway, because I wanted it officially recorded. Now it won't get overridden, and I don't have to worry about the tazer, losing my settings with updates, or any "unauthorized" modifications. I just wanted it officially sanctioned, and assurance that it wouldn't cause warranty issues later. I think that might be why some (not sure if all?) dealers are limiting to 35", for warranty purposes. I can imagine 37s breaking things, but these being engineered for up to 35" to stay within the margin of safety.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

After I added the passive entry system to my JT, and I got all of the changes programmed in and it was working great, I went to the dealer for my WAVE services and asked them if it was possible to have them contact Jeep and have that sales code added to my VIN so any future flashes of that module wouldn't undo everything - meaning I'd have to reset the programming to make it work.
I said I'd be willing to pay for it. (I did explain that when I ordered the truck we told the sales guy we wanted the passive entry but he missed getting it ordered)
When my truck was done they had not only gotten that taken care of, they flashed the module with the new download from Jeep and it worked fine. And - no charge.
It does show up on the Jeep site when I lock in and choose my vehicle as a "dealer installed option" but that's fine, it didn't cost me a thing for them to do it. Let them take credit.

 

[IamPro2A]

I later bought this adapter to access other areas - my wife would smack me for not buying the very best I could buy the first time out but then I thought the other would do. Well, it would, but me being me, I wanted to access the far side of the universe...........
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JFRFJG6

You only need ONE of the above adapters. For most the cheaper one would do most things just fine.

What are the areas you needed the more expensive one to access?

I already have an OBD adapter that may work (anyone who owns a car made after 1995 should own one, IMNHO), I might give it a try on my wife's JK to make a few changes like fog light dropout.

Along those lines, can anyone point me to a definitive JScan price list???? Only thing I've found without installing the app is that it requires in-app purchases ranging from "$0.99 - $169.99 per item". At least with the AlphaOBD, I know exactly how much it's going to cost me; $50. I've seen people post $20 or $30 per vin for Jscan, but I can't find that on their website or on the google play install page.

 

[Orange01z28]

I recommend finding a good 4WD shop instead of a dealer

 

[ShadowsPapa]

What are the areas you needed the more expensive one to access?

I already have an OBD adapter that may work (anyone who owns a car made after 1995 should own one, IMNHO), I might give it a try on my wife's JK to make a few changes like fog light dropout.

Along those lines, can anyone point me to a definitive JScan price list???? Only thing I've found without installing the app is that it requires in-app purchases ranging from "$0.99 - $169.99 per item". At least with the AlphaOBD, I know exactly how much it's going to cost me; $50. I've seen people post $20 or $30 per vin for Jscan, but I can't find that on their website or on the google play install page.

Like any app that is connected to Google Play Store, it will tell of "in app purchases" - but the only purchase needed is the license for the VIN you plan on using it with. That's it. So you can ignore that huge range of numbers. I think last I checked it was something like downloading the app itself is FREE, then you go into the app and make a purchase for the license for the VIN - about 21 bucks. IF you want to use it on a second Jeep, you buy another VIN license. You can download and play with the app for free as I recall, then buy the license as needed.
Any app that connects through the Google Play store for anything apparently has to include some disclaimer about in app purchases and that sort of thing. All you care about is the license for the VIN at about 21 last I knew. That's what I paid for the license for my JT VIN about 2 years ago.

I can't recall what I couldn't get to with the lower cost adapter but it wasn't what most people would care about.

I have JSCAN on my phone and AlfaOBD on my phone and on my tablet. But then some might say I'm sort of a "nerd" and love to tinker and discover.

 

[OnlyOne]

I‘ll stick with the Tazer, thanks. Nothing wrong with all the other options. Tazer is just super simple, plug and play.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I‘ll stick with the Tazer, thanks. Nothing wrong with all the other options. Tazer is just super simple, plug and play.

Unless you need to visit the dealer for a flash or other repairs where it might be "in the way". This is simple as heck, too, IMO. Plug in the bypass, connect, make changes through the software, put cables back, done.

Doesn't tazer have some sort of interface you have to use or does it have a screen and keyboard directly on the tazer device you plug in?
Yeah, still software. You still have to buy a bypass cable and plug that in, so it's bypass cable and cost of tazer which is over 200 by itself - correct?

Guess other than the live features of tazer, I don't really see a difference.

 

[Average Oregonian]

Unless you need to visit the dealer for a flash or other repairs where it might be "in the way". This is simple as heck, too, IMO. Plug in the bypass, connect, make changes through the software, put cables back, done.

Doesn't tazer have some sort of interface you have to use or does it have a screen and keyboard directly on the tazer device you plug in?
Yeah, still software. You still have to buy a bypass cable and plug that in, so it's bypass cable and cost of tazer which is over 200 by itself - correct?

Guess other than the live features of tazer, I don't really see a difference.

The truck itself is the interface. You interact with the Tazer through the gauge cluster using the steering wheel controls. And no, no bypass cable is needed. You unplug the SGW and plug in the Tazer in its place. It can be permanently left in place or removed as desired. If left in place, it offers additional functionality, such as winch mode (idle up), read and clear DTCs, turn camera (read camera active with blinker), fast camera (double-click mute to activate rear camera), etc.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

The truck itself is the interface. You interact with the Tazer through the gauge cluster using the steering wheel controls.

Yeah, personal preference to not do it that way. That's helped me know I"m happy with the software way.

For me it's a wash as far as functionality - there's maybe a couple of things I'd use that tazer does (because it's live in the system at all times). Winch mode idle, one or two other things, that's it. Wouldn't be any advantage at all for my use and how I use my truck.
Like I've said in other threads - it's up to what is important, what a person needs to do (sometimes vs. wants) and costs.
I know it's the manly thing, the REAL Jeeper thing to have and people really push it as the must have, the only thing you ever need, tool.

BUT - for me, I see nothing there that's any advantage in my case.
If a person wants to simply change system settings, set tire sizes, etc. cost comes into play. How often do you need to do that? Once a year? Every 2 years?

Personally, for me - it's no big deal to plug in the adapter and open the cover on my tablet and make changes I need. I haven't needed to connect since last year.

It's simple to connect to diagnose and save logs and print the diagnostics logs.
That's why I really like my choices - it's useful for any vehicle.
If I need to make changes or diagnose my wife's Jeep - I can.

I am very curious, though - yes, you can read codes, yes you can reset them because it bypasses all vehicle security in itself, but question -
Does tazer show you specifics like this - and can you print them - in this case there's no code to read, no code to reset.........?

2021/01/04 11:52:06.281
Faults found.
P0303
Error code: P0303
Cylinder 3 ignition failures
Test not complete
Error intermittent
Error warning lamp not requested
CARB Freeze Frame:
___________________
Fault code: P0303
PCM Mileage since MIL On: 0.00 miles
PCM Odometer: 950.27 miles
Open Loop - Bank 1: No
Closed Loop - Bank 1: Yes
Open Loop due to Driving Conditions - Bank 1: No
Open Loop with DTC - Bank 1: No
Closed Loop with DTC - Bank 1: No
Open Loop - Bank 2: No
Closed Loop - Bank 2: No
Open Loop due to Driving Conditions - Bank 2: No
Open Loop with DTC - Bank 2: No
Closed Loop with DTC - Bank 2: No
Engine load: 30.20 %
Freeze Frame Engine Coolant Temp: 66.00 Deg.C
Intake Air Temperature: 215.00 Deg.C
Ambient Air Temperature: 12.00 Deg.C
Short Term Fuel Trim - Bank 1: 12.49 %
Long Term Fuel Trim - Bank 1: -3.13 %
Short Term Fuel Trim - Bank 2: 9.37 %
Long Term Fuel Trim - Bank 2: -7.04 %
MAP Voltage: 1.96 V
MAP: 46 kPa
Atmospheric pressure: 97 kPa
Engine RPM: 875.00 rpm
Vehicle speed: 0 MPH
Throttle Position Sensor 1 Percent: 12.94 %
Battery voltage: 14.58 V
Fuel level: 95.69 %
Purge Solenoid Current: 0.00 mA
Purge Duty Cycle: 0.00 %
Idle Air Control (IAC) Current: 0.00 mA
Idle Air Control (IAC) Duty Cycle: 0.00 %
EGR Flow: 0.00 g/s
Current Adaptive Cell ID: 24
Spark advance: -2.00 Deg
AC Clutch: Disengaged
EGR Gassed Flowing: No
Power Steering High Pressure: No
AC Switch: Off
PRNDL in Gear: No
Brake switch: Pressed
Low Ethanol PWR Enrich Flag: No
Low Ethanol Therm Management Flag: No
Ethanol Gas For Sure: No
Ethanol Mode: No
Ethanol - 0% Blend Direction: No
Ethanol - 85% Blend Direction: No
Ethanol - Open Loop Fuelling: No
Ethanol Fine Tune Complete Previous: No
Ethanol Fuel Volume Changed: No
Ethanol Low Fuel: No
Ethanol Trigger On Fuel Volume Fault: No
Ethanol Trigger During Learn: No
Ethanol Learn: Disabled
Ethanol Course Update Ready to Learn: No
Ethanol Course Update: Not completed
Ethanol Fine Tune: Not completed
Actual Torque: 0.84 Nm
Potential Torque: 78.16 Nm
Target throttle position: 2.56 V
Electronic Throttle Control (ETC) Motor Directional Duty Cycle: -20.67 %DC
Electronic Throttle Control (ETC) Motor Duty Cycle: 20.67 %DC
Throttle position sensor 1: 2.58 V
Throttle position sensor 2: 17.42 V
Accelerator pedal sensor 10.44 V
Accelerator pedal sensor 20.22 V
Accelerator pedal position: 0.00 %
Brake switch 1: Released
Brake switch 2: Released
H-Bridge Circuit: Enabled
Ignition Run/Start Switch: On
Throttle Flow Adaptive: 0.13 g/s
Throttle Flow Multiplicative Adaptive: 2.00
PHI Adaptation Value: 0.00
Calculated MAP: 46.59 kPa
Ethanol Percent: 0.00 %
Turbo Boost Timer: 0.00 ms
Throttle Inlet Pressure: 0.00 kPa
Throttle Inlet Pressure Voltage: 320.34 V
Turbo Airport Mass Flow: 3.45 g/s
Turbo PRatio: 1.00
Turbo Torque Count: 0
Turbo Speed: 65535 rpm
Turbo Wastegate Duty Cycle: 200.01 %DC
Time since Run/Start: 45 sec

 

[Average Oregonian]

Neat.

 

[The White Rabbit]

I recommend finding a good 4WD shop instead of a dealer

I’m at dealer right now and they referred me to the off-road shop they use for all of there after market work. Assured my warranty will be good still if I use the recommended shop

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I’m at dealer right now and they referred me to the off-road shop they use for all of there after market work. Assured my warranty will be good still if I use the recommended shop

It's interesting that some dealership shops handle things in-house and others do not. The dealer I bought my truck through said if I wanted different rims, different tires, lift, that sort of thing, they referred me to tire shops and a 4x4 shop - they don't do that sort of thing (other than simple swaps)
But the dealership I go to for warranty and other work - which is much closer and smaller, has a dedicated accessories sales guy and they do lifts, wheel and tire sales and swaps and more.

This was done by them, sitting in their showroom. Not cheap, of course, they make their money on the mods, but still - they do it... lifted, much larger tires and wheels.

 

[NachoRuby]

Yeah, personal preference to not do it that way. That's helped me know I"m happy with the software way.

For me it's a wash as far as functionality - there's maybe a couple of things I'd use that tazer does (because it's live in the system at all times). Winch mode idle, one or two other things, that's it. Wouldn't be any advantage at all for my use and how I use my truck.
Like I've said in other threads - it's up to what is important, what a person needs to do (sometimes vs. wants) and costs.
I know it's the manly thing, the REAL Jeeper thing to have and people really push it as the must have, the only thing you ever need, tool.

BUT - for me, I see nothing there that's any advantage in my case.
If a person wants to simply change system settings, set tire sizes, etc. cost comes into play. How often do you need to do that? Once a year? Every 2 years?

Personally, for me - it's no big deal to plug in the adapter and open the cover on my tablet and make changes I need. I haven't needed to connect since last year.

It's simple to connect to diagnose and save logs and print the diagnostics logs.
That's why I really like my choices - it's useful for any vehicle.
If I need to make changes or diagnose my wife's Jeep - I can.

I am very curious, though - yes, you can read codes, yes you can reset them because it bypasses all vehicle security in itself, but question -
Does tazer show you specifics like this - and can you print them - in this case there's no code to read, no code to reset.........?

2021/01/04 11:52:06.281
Faults found.
P0303
Error code: P0303
Cylinder 3 ignition failures
Test not complete
Error intermittent
Error warning lamp not requested
CARB Freeze Frame:
___________________
Fault code: P0303
PCM Mileage since MIL On: 0.00 miles
PCM Odometer: 950.27 miles
Open Loop - Bank 1: No
Closed Loop - Bank 1: Yes
Open Loop due to Driving Conditions - Bank 1: No
Open Loop with DTC - Bank 1: No
Closed Loop with DTC - Bank 1: No
Open Loop - Bank 2: No
Closed Loop - Bank 2: No
Open Loop due to Driving Conditions - Bank 2: No
Open Loop with DTC - Bank 2: No
Closed Loop with DTC - Bank 2: No
Engine load: 30.20 %
Freeze Frame Engine Coolant Temp: 66.00 Deg.C
Intake Air Temperature: 215.00 Deg.C
Ambient Air Temperature: 12.00 Deg.C
Short Term Fuel Trim - Bank 1: 12.49 %
Long Term Fuel Trim - Bank 1: -3.13 %
Short Term Fuel Trim - Bank 2: 9.37 %
Long Term Fuel Trim - Bank 2: -7.04 %
MAP Voltage: 1.96 V
MAP: 46 kPa
Atmospheric pressure: 97 kPa
Engine RPM: 875.00 rpm
Vehicle speed: 0 MPH
Throttle Position Sensor 1 Percent: 12.94 %
Battery voltage: 14.58 V
Fuel level: 95.69 %
Purge Solenoid Current: 0.00 mA
Purge Duty Cycle: 0.00 %
Idle Air Control (IAC) Current: 0.00 mA
Idle Air Control (IAC) Duty Cycle: 0.00 %
EGR Flow: 0.00 g/s
Current Adaptive Cell ID: 24
Spark advance: -2.00 Deg
AC Clutch: Disengaged
EGR Gassed Flowing: No
Power Steering High Pressure: No
AC Switch: Off
PRNDL in Gear: No
Brake switch: Pressed
Low Ethanol PWR Enrich Flag: No
Low Ethanol Therm Management Flag: No
Ethanol Gas For Sure: No
Ethanol Mode: No
Ethanol - 0% Blend Direction: No
Ethanol - 85% Blend Direction: No
Ethanol - Open Loop Fuelling: No
Ethanol Fine Tune Complete Previous: No
Ethanol Fuel Volume Changed: No
Ethanol Low Fuel: No
Ethanol Trigger On Fuel Volume Fault: No
Ethanol Trigger During Learn: No
Ethanol Learn: Disabled
Ethanol Course Update Ready to Learn: No
Ethanol Course Update: Not completed
Ethanol Fine Tune: Not completed
Actual Torque: 0.84 Nm
Potential Torque: 78.16 Nm
Target throttle position: 2.56 V
Electronic Throttle Control (ETC) Motor Directional Duty Cycle: -20.67 %DC
Electronic Throttle Control (ETC) Motor Duty Cycle: 20.67 %DC
Throttle position sensor 1: 2.58 V
Throttle position sensor 2: 17.42 V
Accelerator pedal sensor 10.44 V
Accelerator pedal sensor 20.22 V
Accelerator pedal position: 0.00 %
Brake switch 1: Released
Brake switch 2: Released
H-Bridge Circuit: Enabled
Ignition Run/Start Switch: On
Throttle Flow Adaptive: 0.13 g/s
Throttle Flow Multiplicative Adaptive: 2.00
PHI Adaptation Value: 0.00
Calculated MAP: 46.59 kPa
Ethanol Percent: 0.00 %
Turbo Boost Timer: 0.00 ms
Throttle Inlet Pressure: 0.00 kPa
Throttle Inlet Pressure Voltage: 320.34 V
Turbo Airport Mass Flow: 3.45 g/s
Turbo PRatio: 1.00
Turbo Torque Count: 0
Turbo Speed: 65535 rpm
Turbo Wastegate Duty Cycle: 200.01 %DC
Time since Run/Start: 45 sec

The tazer does show all of that information, but you can't print it (I don't think). it shows up in the center stack. However, that's not app specific. Any Bluetooth reader will show that. I used to use the torque and carista on my VW. No reason it won't work on the jeep too. Tire size changes aside, the best thing about the tazer is the off-road functions. It's like an extension of off-road+ on Rubicons and Mojave (and of course, it adds them if you don't have Rubicon on Mojave, all displaying in the gauge cluster). Lock both diffs in high swaybar disconnect in high, etc. And like the jscan, you don't have to leave it plugged in. That's only for the live functions. I don't plug mine in any more unless I'm off-road, because I hate the license plate light blanking, which is a live feature you can't turn off, and I hate the light show, which I've accidentally enabled before.

 

[The White Rabbit]

It's interesting that some dealership shops handle things in-house and others do not. The dealer I bought my truck through said if I wanted different rims, different tires, lift, that sort of thing, they referred me to tire shops and a 4x4 shop - they don't do that sort of thing (other than simple swaps)
But the dealership I go to for warranty and other work - which is much closer and smaller, has a dedicated accessories sales guy and they do lifts, wheel and tire sales and swaps and more.

This was done by them, sitting in their showroom. Not cheap, of course, they make their money on the mods, but still - they do it... lifted, much larger tires and wheels.

This JTR on the lot here for sale was modded by the shop they recommended.

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