Dealership said NO to recalibrating to 37s? How is it typically done?

[ShadowsPapa]

I’m at dealer right now and they referred me to the off-road shop they use for all of there after market work. Assured my warranty will be good still if I use the recommended shop

It's interesting that some dealership shops handle things in-house and others do not. The dealer I bought my truck through said if I wanted different rims, different tires, lift, that sort of thing, they referred me to tire shops and a 4x4 shop - they don't do that sort of thing (other than simple swaps)
But the dealership I go to for warranty and other work - which is much closer and smaller, has a dedicated accessories sales guy and they do lifts, wheel and tire sales and swaps and more.

This was done by them, sitting in their showroom. Not cheap, of course, they make their money on the mods, but still - they do it... lifted, much larger tires and wheels.

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[NachoRuby]

Yeah, personal preference to not do it that way. That's helped me know I"m happy with the software way.

For me it's a wash as far as functionality - there's maybe a couple of things I'd use that tazer does (because it's live in the system at all times). Winch mode idle, one or two other things, that's it. Wouldn't be any advantage at all for my use and how I use my truck.
Like I've said in other threads - it's up to what is important, what a person needs to do (sometimes vs. wants) and costs.
I know it's the manly thing, the REAL Jeeper thing to have and people really push it as the must have, the only thing you ever need, tool.

BUT - for me, I see nothing there that's any advantage in my case.
If a person wants to simply change system settings, set tire sizes, etc. cost comes into play. How often do you need to do that? Once a year? Every 2 years?

Personally, for me - it's no big deal to plug in the adapter and open the cover on my tablet and make changes I need. I haven't needed to connect since last year.

It's simple to connect to diagnose and save logs and print the diagnostics logs.
That's why I really like my choices - it's useful for any vehicle.
If I need to make changes or diagnose my wife's Jeep - I can.

I am very curious, though - yes, you can read codes, yes you can reset them because it bypasses all vehicle security in itself, but question -
Does tazer show you specifics like this - and can you print them - in this case there's no code to read, no code to reset.........?

2021/01/04 11:52:06.281
Faults found.
P0303
Error code: P0303
Cylinder 3 ignition failures
Test not complete
Error intermittent
Error warning lamp not requested
CARB Freeze Frame:
___________________
Fault code: P0303
PCM Mileage since MIL On: 0.00 miles
PCM Odometer: 950.27 miles
Open Loop - Bank 1: No
Closed Loop - Bank 1: Yes
Open Loop due to Driving Conditions - Bank 1: No
Open Loop with DTC - Bank 1: No
Closed Loop with DTC - Bank 1: No
Open Loop - Bank 2: No
Closed Loop - Bank 2: No
Open Loop due to Driving Conditions - Bank 2: No
Open Loop with DTC - Bank 2: No
Closed Loop with DTC - Bank 2: No
Engine load: 30.20 %
Freeze Frame Engine Coolant Temp: 66.00 Deg.C
Intake Air Temperature: 215.00 Deg.C
Ambient Air Temperature: 12.00 Deg.C
Short Term Fuel Trim - Bank 1: 12.49 %
Long Term Fuel Trim - Bank 1: -3.13 %
Short Term Fuel Trim - Bank 2: 9.37 %
Long Term Fuel Trim - Bank 2: -7.04 %
MAP Voltage: 1.96 V
MAP: 46 kPa
Atmospheric pressure: 97 kPa
Engine RPM: 875.00 rpm
Vehicle speed: 0 MPH
Throttle Position Sensor 1 Percent: 12.94 %
Battery voltage: 14.58 V
Fuel level: 95.69 %
Purge Solenoid Current: 0.00 mA
Purge Duty Cycle: 0.00 %
Idle Air Control (IAC) Current: 0.00 mA
Idle Air Control (IAC) Duty Cycle: 0.00 %
EGR Flow: 0.00 g/s
Current Adaptive Cell ID: 24
Spark advance: -2.00 Deg
AC Clutch: Disengaged
EGR Gassed Flowing: No
Power Steering High Pressure: No
AC Switch: Off
PRNDL in Gear: No
Brake switch: Pressed
Low Ethanol PWR Enrich Flag: No
Low Ethanol Therm Management Flag: No
Ethanol Gas For Sure: No
Ethanol Mode: No
Ethanol - 0% Blend Direction: No
Ethanol - 85% Blend Direction: No
Ethanol - Open Loop Fuelling: No
Ethanol Fine Tune Complete Previous: No
Ethanol Fuel Volume Changed: No
Ethanol Low Fuel: No
Ethanol Trigger On Fuel Volume Fault: No
Ethanol Trigger During Learn: No
Ethanol Learn: Disabled
Ethanol Course Update Ready to Learn: No
Ethanol Course Update: Not completed
Ethanol Fine Tune: Not completed
Actual Torque: 0.84 Nm
Potential Torque: 78.16 Nm
Target throttle position: 2.56 V
Electronic Throttle Control (ETC) Motor Directional Duty Cycle: -20.67 %DC
Electronic Throttle Control (ETC) Motor Duty Cycle: 20.67 %DC
Throttle position sensor 1: 2.58 V
Throttle position sensor 2: 17.42 V
Accelerator pedal sensor 10.44 V
Accelerator pedal sensor 20.22 V
Accelerator pedal position: 0.00 %
Brake switch 1: Released
Brake switch 2: Released
H-Bridge Circuit: Enabled
Ignition Run/Start Switch: On
Throttle Flow Adaptive: 0.13 g/s
Throttle Flow Multiplicative Adaptive: 2.00
PHI Adaptation Value: 0.00
Calculated MAP: 46.59 kPa
Ethanol Percent: 0.00 %
Turbo Boost Timer: 0.00 ms
Throttle Inlet Pressure: 0.00 kPa
Throttle Inlet Pressure Voltage: 320.34 V
Turbo Airport Mass Flow: 3.45 g/s
Turbo PRatio: 1.00
Turbo Torque Count: 0
Turbo Speed: 65535 rpm
Turbo Wastegate Duty Cycle: 200.01 %DC
Time since Run/Start: 45 sec

The tazer does show all of that information, but you can't print it (I don't think). it shows up in the center stack. However, that's not app specific. Any Bluetooth reader will show that. I used to use the torque and carista on my VW. No reason it won't work on the jeep too. Tire size changes aside, the best thing about the tazer is the off-road functions. It's like an extension of off-road+ on Rubicons and Mojave (and of course, it adds them if you don't have Rubicon on Mojave, all displaying in the gauge cluster). Lock both diffs in high swaybar disconnect in high, etc. And like the jscan, you don't have to leave it plugged in. That's only for the live functions. I don't plug mine in any more unless I'm off-road, because I hate the license plate light blanking, which is a live feature you can't turn off, and I hate the light show, which I've accidentally enabled before.

 

[The White Rabbit]

It's interesting that some dealership shops handle things in-house and others do not. The dealer I bought my truck through said if I wanted different rims, different tires, lift, that sort of thing, they referred me to tire shops and a 4x4 shop - they don't do that sort of thing (other than simple swaps)
But the dealership I go to for warranty and other work - which is much closer and smaller, has a dedicated accessories sales guy and they do lifts, wheel and tire sales and swaps and more.

This was done by them, sitting in their showroom. Not cheap, of course, they make their money on the mods, but still - they do it... lifted, much larger tires and wheels.

This JTR on the lot here for sale was modded by the shop they recommended.

 

[Dougstdig]

The dealer will fine tune it. The only problem is you have to keep making an appointment to get it just right. PIA. I'm getting mine adjusted while they fix my axle leak. It was off by 1 mph (reading slow) at 40+, and about 2 at 75.

On that note, OP, with a 37", you might want to drive it stock for a while to make sure there are no problems, before they start blaming stuff on your 37s. If they won't calibrate it, they probably won't want to warranty it either.

For what it’s worth…

I just saw a video on calculating the true correction factor.
1. At street pressure, Mark the tire AND the ground at a point there it touches the ground.
2. Role the vehicle until the mark on the tire comes back around and when in the same angle to the ground mark the ground again. 3. Measure the distance between the 2 marks on the ground.
4. Take this number (ladened circumference) and divide by pie…or 3.14159.
5. this should be the correct figure you key in.

 

[Dougstdig]

Using backwards math on a tire claiming to be 37”, a ladened circumference of 115.45 / 3.14159 = 36.74890 or what you would enter into your programmer.

 

[Terry]

Hey there,

This is my first Jeep, and its currently being shipping to the dealership. I have already bought a set of 37s and will be doing the Mopar 2" lift. I called my local dealer and they told me they won't calibrate 37s only 35s... has this been the experience everywhere or should I ask a different dealership?

How do I calibrate so my jeep knows it has 37s?

TIA

It was the same with my dealer too, so I kept the 32's (actually 33) when I went to the K02's. The Technician told me there had been some issues with obtaining and then maintaining appropriate shift points (automatic) when they set it to shift at an appropriate RPM with anything 35 or larger. I believed him and went to the 33's and have had no problems. I have the factory 4:10's and the MPG actually went up with the K02 tires.

 

[IamPro2A]

Like any app that is connected to Google Play Store, it will tell of "in app purchases" - but the only purchase needed is the license for the VIN you plan on using it with. That's it. So you can ignore that huge range of numbers. I think last I checked it was something like downloading the app itself is FREE, then you go into the app and make a purchase for the license for the VIN - about 21 bucks. IF you want to use it on a second Jeep, you buy another VIN license. You can download and play with the app for free as I recall, then buy the license as needed.
Any app that connects through the Google Play store for anything apparently has to include some disclaimer about in app purchases and that sort of thing. All you care about is the license for the VIN at about 21 last I knew. That's what I paid for the license for my JT VIN about 2 years ago.

I can't recall what I couldn't get to with the lower cost adapter but it wasn't what most people would care about.

I have JSCAN on my phone and AlfaOBD on my phone and on my tablet. But then some might say I'm sort of a "nerd" and love to tinker and discover.

Every other paid app I have, I knew in advance how much it cost before I installed it. AlphaOBD is clear on both it's website and on the Google Play install page how much it will cost before you download it. Jscan's website mentions it can be licensed for 1, 3 or 5 vehicles, but I can not find mention of what those costs are. The install page just tells me it's going to cost me somewhere between " $0.99 - $169.99 per item" with no description of what that buys. What does Jscan do for me if I only spend 99 cents? What does $169.99 get me? No idea. I'm not a fan of having to install a program to find out how much it's going to cost me to use. That seems shady right there. It's like going shopping, and nothing has a price tag, and you have to have the cashier ring it up, bag it, and have your credit card in hand before you know the price.

I decided to look at the Apple download page, even though the only ios device in the house is my wife's work issued phone. I see Apple lists the app as free, but "1 vin license costs 99,99 zł" which meant nothing to me until a google search says that zl is Polish Zloty and 99.99 of them currently equals $25.15 and that 3vins cost 259.99 zl or $65.39 at today's exchange rate. I'm guessing Android pricing will be the same.

Back to AlphaOBD. I believe you've said it's harder to use than Jscan, but also more powerful? And unlimited vins? Seems like even if I just use it on my 2 jOBDII enabled Jeeps, it comes out ahead of Jscan. If it works on my 2007 Ram 1500 (as I read the website, it currently doesnt? Only 2500 and up Rams of that generation?) even better. Best yet, AlphaOBD is very clear about offering a free demo, so I can see if the current adapter I have even works. Jscan seems to imply their demo is just of the app itself, and does not actually interact with the vehicle.

Of course, since I already have the Tazer, I would really only need it for the JK, but I still don't mind paying $24 extra for a better or more useful product.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

The tazer does show all of that information, but you can't print it (I don't think). it shows up in the center stack. However, that's not app specific. Any Bluetooth reader will show that. I used to use the torque and carista on my VW. No reason it won't work on the jeep too. Tire size changes aside, the best thing about the tazer is the off-road functions. It's like an extension of off-road+ on Rubicons and Mojave (and of course, it adds them if you don't have Rubicon on Mojave, all displaying in the gauge cluster). Lock both diffs in high swaybar disconnect in high, etc. And like the jscan, you don't have to leave it plugged in. That's only for the live functions. I don't plug mine in any more unless I'm off-road, because I hate the license plate light blanking, which is a live feature you can't turn off, and I hate the light show, which I've accidentally enabled before.

Funny thing about OBDII - it's a standard, but there are so many OBD............ for example, I've tried multiple adapters and several pieces of software and dedicated handheld readers - none could read my WJ ABS.
I have Torque lite or whatever it's called - the free version. Nice gauges and such for a free app.

The install page just tells me it's going to cost me somewhere between " $0.99 - $169.99 per item" with no description of what that buys. What does Jscan do for me if I only spend 99 cents? What does $169.99 get me? No idea. I'm not a fan of having to install a program to find out how much it's going to cost me to use. That seems shady right there.

Like I said elsewhere - that's Google, not JSCAN. It tells you there are in-app purchases as a matter of policy and Google puts in the numbers as that's the range most in-app purchases are. But the JSCAN pages tell - or told - when I bought it was 21. I knew that before I even downloaded the app. Unfortunately what you see on Google Play is their generic "this app has in-app purchases" and their blurb on prices. That's not JSCAN talking.
There should be several threads here that mention specifics on the cost per VIN license.
There isn't anything shady really - that's a generic "your mileage may vary" from Google.



Download OBD JScan app from Google Play store or Apple Store – application is free to download, but license is required to change vehicle settings and access all available options on the app.
Purchase compatible an OBD2 adapter*
Connect to your vehicle
Purchase license for your vehicle VIN, license is not required to connect to a car. *
*list of recommended and supported OBD adapters can be found here:
http://jscan.net/supported-and-not-supported-obd-adapters/

* most of Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep cars 2017-2018+ will require bypass security gateway to allow any vehicle modifications. “Autel Chrysler 12+8 adapter" Read More

* license purchase options can be will be presented when you connect to a car or you can check available licenses under “Settings -> Manage Licenses" (connection is not required)

 

[OHJeeper]

Using backwards math on a tire claiming to be 37”, a ladened circumference of 115.45 / 3.14159 = 36.74890 or what you would enter into your programmer.

This is indeed the correct way to calculate it... mathematically. For some reason the PCM doesn't do math the same way we do

In my case, with 37" tires the correct setting for me ended up being 36.25 even though measuring them got me closer to 36.75 (like your math, above)

 

[tysongladiator]

Every other paid app I have, I knew in advance how much it cost before I installed it. AlphaOBD is clear on both it's website and on the Google Play install page how much it will cost before you download it. Jscan's website mentions it can be licensed for 1, 3 or 5 vehicles, but I can not find mention of what those costs are. The install page just tells me it's going to cost me somewhere between " $0.99 - $169.99 per item" with no description of what that buys. What does Jscan do for me if I only spend 99 cents? What does $169.99 get me? No idea. I'm not a fan of having to install a program to find out how much it's going to cost me to use. That seems shady right there. It's like going shopping, and nothing has a price tag, and you have to have the cashier ring it up, bag it, and have your credit card in hand before you know the price.

I decided to look at the Apple download page, even though the only ios device in the house is my wife's work issued phone. I see Apple lists the app as free, but "1 vin license costs 99,99 zł" which meant nothing to me until a google search says that zl is Polish Zloty and 99.99 of them currently equals $25.15 and that 3vins cost 259.99 zl or $65.39 at today's exchange rate. I'm guessing Android pricing will be the same.

Back to AlphaOBD. I believe you've said it's harder to use than Jscan, but also more powerful? And unlimited vins? Seems like even if I just use it on my 2 jOBDII enabled Jeeps, it comes out ahead of Jscan. If it works on my 2007 Ram 1500 (as I read the website, it currently doesnt? Only 2500 and up Rams of that generation?) even better. Best yet, AlphaOBD is very clear about offering a free demo, so I can see if the current adapter I have even works. Jscan seems to imply their demo is just of the app itself, and does not actually interact with the vehicle.

Of course, since I already have the Tazer, I would really only need it for the JK, but I still don't mind paying $24 extra for a better or more useful product.

You have to download the app to get the correct price. Google gives you some random price range, but JSCAN gives you their actual price. I got the app and licenses for My JT, JKU, and charger for less than $200. But through the app. You don't use google on your car so don't trust them to know the actual price.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

You have to download the app to get the correct price. Google gives you some random price range, but JSCAN gives you their actual price. I got the app and licenses for My JT, JKU, and charger for less than $200. But through the app. You don't use google on your car so don't trust them to know the actual price.

And going through Google Play Store to sell licenses and such - it's a convenience, otherwise the programmer/vendor has to have a "shopping cart" or a site that can handle such things. JSCAN pays Google to handle transactions, track sales, deal with credit card, fraud, security and all that stuff. So the guy who programmed/created/keeps current the JSCAN app can concentrate on the app and pay Google to deal with credit cards and such. Build an app and sell it on Google Play and they provide all the libraries and code to put into your app to sell licenses.
My son has built sites and code for sites such as cars dot com and Gannett and we talked about his work - Google provides a lot of libraries to deal with sales and commonly used things.
It costs the programmer to sell through Google but Apple and Google leave programmers little choice these days - want to sell or provide your apps to our devices and operating systems, you must sell through us and pay us for the privilege.

All you have to do is contact JSCAN and he'll let you know what to expect.
If you have multiple FCA or Jeep vehicles he does offer 3 and 5 VIN licenses bundles and may do other bundles, too.

 

[Just Jon]

Hey there,

This is my first Jeep, and its currently being shipping to the dealership. I have already bought a set of 37s and will be doing the Mopar 2" lift. I called my local dealer and they told me they won't calibrate 37s only 35s... has this been the experience everywhere or should I ask a different dealership?

How do I calibrate so my jeep knows it has 37s?

TIA

Good question, I went from stock 32's to 34's and wonder if I need to recalibrate mine?

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Good question, I went from stock 32's to 34's and wonder if I need to recalibrate mine?

Yes you sure do! You need to calibrate or change the tire size setting in the system any time you change tire size. Speed is detected by how fast the tires are spinning and bigger tires mean they are turning slower, fewer times, to go the same distance.
There is no question you need to change that tire size setting.
Even if you took off 32s and put on OTHER 32s, you'd need to make changes because every tire of a given size will vary a bit. The stock tires on my Overland were 32.2". The Rubicon 33" tires were actually 32.8"
I put General A/TX tires on my truck and even though they are still "technically 32s" I had to change the settings because they varied slightly in rolling diameter from the original "32s"

 

[Koolcarguy]

Hey there,

This is my first Jeep, and its currently being shipping to the dealership. I have already bought a set of 37s and will be doing the Mopar 2" lift. I called my local dealer and they told me they won't calibrate 37s only 35s... has this been the experience everywhere or should I ask a different dealership?

How do I calibrate so my jeep knows it has 37s?

TIA

Find a different dealer we just had both our 21 Gecko Gladiator's calibrated at a Jeep dealership they sell you a service contract for $100 and charge you $45 more to calibrate to 37's

 

[Jtschnel]

I used a Tazer.

I might suggest a better lift then the Mopar 2" such as Clayton, Metalcloak, etc.... You'll be happier.

If you’re going with 37’s the Metalcloak 3 1/2 is a very nice lift. Have had no problems whatsoever.

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