Tow Hooks...What are They For?

[ShadowsPapa]

Do what is safe. I've never used mine, I have shackles and a tow trap point on my hitch. The tow hooks from the factory are just barely safe and better than nothing.

Two sites I looked at say the tow hooks on the front were rated 10,000 pounds. I know the Harbor freight hook I bought a few years back for another Jeep was rated 8,000 pounds and it wasn't as stout (and likely made cheaper).

One was a Ford site discussing the tow hook capacity of various vehicles, mostly Ford but Jeep came up, and another was a Jeep site I can't recall which it was......

my stock Mopar (they have the pentastar and the mopar M on them) front tow hooks also say 10000# on each tow hook...

So from that quote above, unless MOPAR has cheapened them up, they used to say 10,000 pounds.
One guy commented that in all of his off-roading he's never had a hook issue but has started to bend other parts in the process, stating he figured something else was going to be the weaker link in that case.
I think it's more in how people use them than the hooks themselves. Get something under tension and it breaks then it can whiplash and fly off the hook, use something too short that tends to pull the hooks inward or to the side, yeah - you have trouble, but for a straight pull they would seem to be as strong as some of the winches out there at the 2nd layer.

My opinion - but my thinking is the hooks are ok, it's how they are used and the people using them that are the issue in some cases.

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[Gvsukids]

I've got 3 blocks and will be set up to do double, triple, quadruple line pulls if the occasion arises for myself or others to spare over-burdening the winch/ plate, etc.

What blocks do you use? I've been looking at the soft shackle with a snatch ring.

 

[Pescatoral Pursuit]

What blocks do you use? I've been looking at the soft shackle with a wheel.

Harbor freight 20k blocks. They're $20 or $30 each. I've seen them used on videos with soft shackles but they're not made to be; too sharp where the shackle attaches.
Unless you're doing a single line pull (which should IMO only be done out of necessity) I think the name of the game is to take as much stress as possible not only off the vehicle but the winch too which means separate anchor points and line redirections. I feel like I'm about 2 static straps, 1 block, a 80-100' moving line, an X-Lock, and a sand anchor or possibly 2, from being completely set up. In the meantime I'm probably well covered, lol.

 

[Tuggernuts]

At least on the Rugged Ridge Arcus they're not good for kinetic pulls. Ask me how I know.

 

[Pescatoral Pursuit]

At least on the Rugged Ridge Arcus they're not good for kinetic pulls. Ask me how I know.

Okay... What happened??

 

[Pescatoral Pursuit]

On another note, I keep a pack of zip ties in the truck.

It wouldn't hurt to zip tie the line to the hook to keep it in place.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Harbor freight 20k blocks. They're $20 or $30 each. I've seen them used on videos with soft shackles but they're not made to be; too sharp where the shackle attaches.
Unless you're doing a single line pull (which should IMO only be done out of necessity) I think the name of the game is to take as much stress as possible not only off the vehicle but the winch too which means separate anchor points and line redirections. I feel like I'm about 2 static straps, 1 block, a 80-100' moving line, an X-Lock, and a sand anchor or possibly 2, from being completely set up. I'm the meantime I'm probably well covered, lol.

I have one of these - no soft shackles. I have a couple of steel clevises.

 

[Pescatoral Pursuit]

I have one of these - no soft shackles. I have a couple of steel clevises.

Wow those are nice and the same price and an extra 9k lbs not that it's necessary.

Another thing that should be mentioned is driveline management. I had an incident pulling out a dead shrub. The bicycle cable that failed made me aware of two things:

Synthetic lines store hardly any energy. I could see the winch bearing down as I was pulling it out laterally without a spare tire as is typical, and when it failed the winch hook flew about 5'. Underwhelming.
Secondly was the little bit of rocking motion from my truck. My answer to this was to order a tazer mini which can lock all 4 brakes so that is going to be standard winching procedure from now on.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

My answer to this was to order a tazer mini which can lock all 4 brakes so that is going to be standard winching procedure from now on.

That's a nice option - I hate all that load on the park pawl or whatever these ZF designed transmissions use in them these days. I set parking brake but that's only 2 wheels locked.

 

[81Mojave]

Stock tow hooks are definitely trustworthy, only downside is they are open, so using them to tow a Jeep off a trail with no brakes can be a pain. Definitely a good rule of thumb to pull as straight as possible.
They are however quick to set up and good with “soft” recovery gear.
If you find normal winching/snatch recovery are not enough or you have enough gear sure use both.
Bottom line they are safe to use if you have an idea how to use them. Definitely better than any front mounted hitch (that I’ve seen) that you likely won’t be able to reach when you sunk in mud.
IMO if someone is suspicious of them then any weight baring items from HF should be the last thing to consider pulling a Jeep with.

 

[Tuggernuts]

Okay... What happened??

My friend hooked his kinetic strap to my bumper using the hook and not the d ring and soft shackle. When I yanked the sharp edges on the hook sliced through the loop on the strap like a hot knife through butter. $200 strap down the shitter. Closed system recovery is your friend.

 

[Pescatoral Pursuit]

What blocks do you use? I've been looking at the soft shackle with a snatch ring.

I didn't read your question properly.
Looks like a great setup and safer than a snatch block/ D-ring combo.

If you run across a good deal, LMK. I'd like to do a comparison.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

IMO if someone is suspicious of them then any weight baring items from HF should be the last thing to consider pulling a Jeep with.

LOL - that's a point.

I have an idea on the front hooks - I was thinking of boring a hole straight down a bit away from the "end" of the hook part, enough to drop a pin down through to prevent a strap from slipping off when slack, etc. It wouldn't have any effect on the strength of the hook itself as it would be "out" where there's no stress on the hook.
So if I describe the "back" of the hook as the open part closest to the grill and the front of the hook the part with the meat where the strap or whatever being used would be pulling against, I'd drill about 3/8" away from the back of the hook so I could drop a steel pin down in.
Just a thought.
I'd probably have to remove the hooks and use my mill on that material - not sure how it would drill.

 

[81Mojave]

LOL - that's a point.

I have an idea on the front hooks - I was thinking of boring a hole straight down a bit away from the "end" of the hook part, enough to drop a pin down through to prevent a strap from slipping off when slack, etc. It wouldn't have any effect on the strength of the hook itself as it would be "out" where there's no stress on the hook.
So if I describe the "back" of the hook as the open part closest to the grill and the front of the hook the part with the meat where the strap or whatever being used would be pulling against, I'd drill about 3/8" away from the back of the hook so I could drop a steel pin down in.
Just a thought.
I'd probably have to remove the hooks and use my mill on that material - not sure how it would drill.

Wow I like that idea actually!
I’m going to have to go take another look at my hooks

 

[Gvsukids]

I didn't read your question properly.
Looks like a great setup and safer than a snatch block/ D-ring combo.

If you run across a good deal, LMK. I'd like to do a comparison.

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