2021 JTDR Intake Manifold Replacement

[Anderson]

My truck has 136k on it now. I was throwing the glow plug and swirl valve fault codes for about 15k and smog was due. I did my YouTube research and couldn’t find any 3rd gen ecodiesel videos out there to help assist in my quest to “get it right the first time”. I ordered the Dorman intake manifold w/MAP sensor, Dorman fuel lines(2nd gen ecodiesel assuming- does not fit), Dorman turbo coolant hose(2nd gen-does not fit 3rd gen), BOSCH glow plugs(2nd gen-did not fit, had to buy dealer only 3rd gen glow plugs), MOPAR EGR Cooler(didn’t end up needing due to way less carbon buildup than anticipated) and the gaskets and rings needed to complete the task.

it was a tedious repair and took more time than allowed for. I felt the need to record and upload to YouTube for others if they need it.

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[Vtur]

Great video. It would be really helpful for sure.

 

[Anderson]

Great video. It would be really helpful for sure.

Thanks. I’m no good at digital media type stuff. But, I still try.

 

[kb5zcr]

Great vid, thanks for making it. That intake does look cleaner than I would have expected.
Can you tell us how you have been treating this engine?
Oil used?
Oil change interval?
What fuel additive used? I think you said archoil.
Anything else you can think of.

Thanks, Tim

 

[Anderson]

Great vid, thanks for making it. That intake does look cleaner than I would have expected.
Can you tell us how you have been treating this engine?
Oil used?
Oil change interval?
What fuel additive used? I think you said archoil.
Anything else you can think of.

Thanks, Tim

This is my work truck. It idles quite a bit through conference calls and video meetings. It is also my play truck and has seen Offroad trails in multiple states, from California to Colorado and in between. I use liqui moly oil products in all my vehicles, including this one. The oil change interval varies greatly depending on work load for the month and how much free time I have to get the maintenance done on time. I’ve charged the oil in as little as 4k all the way to 11k. The fuel additive I started with was Docs Diesel cetane booster then moved to Archoil after getting spammed online with their ads. I saw no difference between the two. I do get regens but since I started using the fuel additives they have lessened in frequency greatly. I’m not particularly”nice” to the engine. I stomp on it when needed. It’s daily driven, meaning every damn day I’m driving it somewhere. It’s been on 35’s since day one and about 3 months ago I finally put 37’s on it. I will regear in January.

 

[guarnibl]

This is my work truck. It idles quite a bit through conference calls and video meetings. It is also my play truck and has seen Offroad trails in multiple states, from California to Colorado and in between. I use liqui moly oil products in all my vehicles, including this one. The oil change interval varies greatly depending on work load for the month and how much free time I have to get the maintenance done on time. I’ve charged the oil in as little as 4k all the way to 11k. The fuel additive I started with was Docs Diesel cetane booster then moved to Archoil after getting spammed online with their ads. I saw no difference between the two. I do get regens but since I started using the fuel additives they have lessened in frequency greatly. I’m not particularly”nice” to the engine. I stomp on it when needed. It’s daily driven, meaning every damn day I’m driving it somewhere. It’s been on 35’s since day one and about 3 months ago I finally put 37’s on it. I will regear in January.

Great video. I'm surprised you feel like you'd need to regear a diesel though with 37's. Any reason? I have found the 3.73's to be OK even running 39" KM3s on beadlocks. Don't get me wrong, it's not perfect, but I still hit 8th on freeway and mileage is OK (~20-21 highway, 16-17 city). I suppose I couldn't do it myself, which is why I don't do it as it's just cost prohibitive and there's other things I rather put that money towards. If I did re-gear, I'd probably go 4.56.

Do you think the fuel additives are necessary? How often are you adding them? I'm only at 40k (owned since new), but haven't added any before. Power train warranty (it's a 21) is expiring here in December, so I'm just trying to figure out where to go next as far as keeping this thing healthy/breathing well for the long term.

 

[Anderson]

Great video. I'm surprised you feel like you'd need to regear a diesel though with 37's. Any reason? I have found the 3.73's to be OK even running 39" KM3s on beadlocks. Don't get me wrong, it's not perfect, but I still hit 8th on freeway and mileage is OK (~20-21 highway, 16-17 city). I suppose I couldn't do it myself, which is why I don't do it as it's just cost prohibitive and there's other things I rather put that money towards. If I did re-gear, I'd probably go 4.56.

Do you think the fuel additives are necessary? How often are you adding them? I'm only at 40k (owned since new), but haven't added any before. Power train warranty (it's a 21) is expiring here in December, so I'm just trying to figure out where to go next as far as keeping this thing healthy/breathing well for the long term.

The buy in for gears can be a “paywall” so to speak for some. I live and work in The Bay Area and our hills are just part of life. Combine the geographic diversity with traffic and you have a combination that is not mpg friendly. When I’m running on flat land, I happily cruise in 8th gear, but throw in hills and traffic and I’m having to press the skinny peddle deeper into the floor more than I want. Plus, I want the gears for when I tow the CJ-7. I plan to go to the 4.56’s in January. With 4.56 gears in the differentials I will be putting less strain on the drivetrain, regaining some of my lost MPG’s and ensuring that my towing abilities aren’t diminished


Considering my truck has 137k(as of last night), using a fuel additive(Archoil) has helped me along in keeping the soot particulate to a minimum, as well as using top tier oil(Liqui-Moly). I’m way out of the extended warranty program that I purchased for this truck when it was being delivered to the dealership.

Doing this job has given me more confidence in my ability to do more major type of maintenance for this engine. I look forward to the retirement of this truck from work status and transitioning it into play truck mode.

Living in California means I am adhering to our smog regulations. Some may bitch and moan about regulations but I want clean mountains, air and streams for my daughter to be able to play in and thrive. Thus, I keep all the smog requirements in place and stay within compliance. Someday, if I can find a way to keep soot particulate to an acceptable level and stay compliant, I would like to find a way to let the engine breathe a bit more. I’ve had an AFE intake on it before and it really only made it sound cooler. So, that’s gone now. I don’t feel like modding the engine right now is an option until I can find a way to keep it clean but breathe more air.

 

[John in the Woods]

Great video. I'm facing the same manifold need at 134K, so this was a very welcome find. Thanks.

For what it's worth I've been running 37s for about the last 80K, including lots of mountain trails both East Coast and Rockies, and I never felt like I needed to regear. There's plenty of torque and low-end gearing to grunt over anything, and I settle into 8th just fine on long trips.

Also, add your name into that thread about EcoDiesel milage. You'll knock me off the top spot, but you earned it brother. I'll just try to keep up.

 

[Anderson]

Great video. I'm facing the same manifold need at 134K, so this was a very welcome find. Thanks.

For what it's worth I've been running 37s for about the last 80K, including lots of mountain trails both East Coast and Rockies, and I never felt like I needed to regear. There's plenty of torque and low-end gearing to grunt over anything, and I settle into 8th just fine on long trips.

Also, add your name into that thread about EcoDiesel milage. You'll knock me off the top spot, but you earned it brother. I'll just try to keep up.

If you have any questions or need pics for reference, just ask. This forum send me an email notification if someone pings me or my content.

 

[Vette Moto]

Excellent video. I don't have any issues with mine yet but I watched the entire video just to learn. What mileage did you start using fuel additives? Just like you, I am so surprised the intake manifold is as clean as it is given the mileage.

 

[Anderson]

Excellent video. I don't have any issues with mine yet but I watched the entire video just to learn. What mileage did you start using fuel additives? Just like you, I am so surprised the intake manifold is as clean as it is given the mileage.

I started using fuel additives around 40k mileage.

 

[John in the Woods]

Greetings again. Just rewatched the video as I get set to tackle my own. Two questions:

Can you list out the specialty tools you used for the fuel lines and the hard to reach torx bolts?

Also, what’s your recommended solution for the alternator harness plug?

Thanks again for this. I’ll try to capture a little video when I do mine, just to add to the knowledge base.

 

[John in the Woods]

@Anderson Hoping you can add that info as I prep for my replacement. Thanks.

 

[Anderson]

Greetings again. Just rewatched the video as I get set to tackle my own. Two questions:

Can you list out the specialty tools you used for the fuel lines and the hard to reach torx bolts?

Also, what’s your recommended solution for the alternator harness plug?

Thanks again for this. I’ll try to capture a little video when I do mine, just to add to the knowledge base.

regarding the specialty tools; Using metric hydraulic 12 point line wrenches should get you everything you need except one fuel line in the rear closest to driverside bank of the fuel rail. That's tool is an extension built into a hydraulic line wrench 12 point socket or line wrench.

Specialty tools found here:
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=diesel+f...el+fuel+line+wrench+,aps,207&ref=nb_sb_noss_2

https://www.amazon.com/Electrical-D...-2-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P26V6ZP?ref=fed_asin_title&th=1

The electric connector I mangled on the alternator was completely my own fault and my patience ran short. The real trick is to use an Interior Trim Detail spray that will soften the plastic connector while also cleaning/flushing the armature of the mechanism, thus making it playable and easy to disconnect.

I recommend Robo Bubble products

https://sarahntuned.com/products/oe-clean-foaming-interior-cleaner-16oz

Also, my solution to my specific problem with the mangled alternator plus is to order a cut wire and connector from a harness at a dismantler. I just haven't bothered with it because it still functions nominally. Im sure I'll get a code at some point and that will force me to address the issue. However, I really should fix it before EJS...

 

[John in the Woods]

regarding the specialty tools; Using metric hydraulic 12 point line wrenches should get you everything you need except one fuel line in the rear closest to driverside bank of the fuel rail. That's tool is an extension built into a hydraulic line wrench 12 point socket or line wrench.

Specialty tools found here:
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=diesel+f...el+fuel+line+wrench+,aps,207&ref=nb_sb_noss_2

https://www.amazon.com/Electrical-D...-2-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P26V6ZP?ref=fed_asin_title&th=1

The electric connector I mangled on the alternator was completely my own fault and my patience ran short. The real trick is to use an Interior Trim Detail spray that will soften the plastic connector while also cleaning/flushing the armature of the mechanism, thus making it playable and easy to disconnect.

I recommend Robo Bubble products

https://sarahntuned.com/products/oe-clean-foaming-interior-cleaner-16oz

Also, my solution to my specific problem with the mangled alternator plus is to order a cut wire and connector from a harness at a dismantler. I just haven't bothered with it because it still functions nominally. Im sure I'll get a code at some point and that will force me to address the issue. However, I really should fix it before EJS...

Perfect! Thanks.

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