3.5” or 4.5” lift for off-road

[Sticks702]

Ok adding to the “what lift is best for me” threads LOL. Finish my build and wondering what direction I should go. I am looking at Clayton, Evo and Metalcloak. I currently have a Sport with the max tow. It also has 5.13 gears and Eaton e-lockers. When I bought the Jeep I was told there was a 3 1/2” lift on it. Turns out it is just spacers with the base Fox 2.0 shocks and all the factory control arms. It is sitting on 37’s. My question is this. It is also my daily driver. We are starting to really get into the more technical rocky stuff here in the SW and want to increase the capability of the rig. Looking for clearance and articulation. Do I go with a full 3 1/2” or 4 1/2” kit or can I make some upgrades and work with what is currently on the Jeep? Any advice helps. Thanks

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[Escape.idiocracy]

This is a really challenging question.
What kind of off roading?

On the rocks? Where having the least amount of lift and most amount of droop, with the largest tires you can afford (axles, hydro steering etc.)

Desert, fast, need lots of up travel for the whoops?? 4.5”+ hydro bumps, front long arm… etc.

Overland? 2.5” to clear 37’s pretty chill nothing crazy 7-8 level trails at worst?

For sure this is a super subjective question, but I think a decent opinion can be left if you provide more details to your driving habits, off-road style etc. and be honest….. I’ll be honest… I drive like an idiot in the desert…. So need up travel, but also like to get down on the rocks….. and need to haul kids and a dog around. will end up with a 3-3.5” long arm front, gutted fenders, hydro bumps and the longest shocks I can manage without bottoming them out…

 

[Sticks702]

Primarily rock crawling with a little desert trail running in the mix. We take it pretty chill in the desert so we don’t crack our skulls on the roll cage. It needs to still be streetable tho

 

[bleda2002]

Smallest lift to clear the tires you want is what I would recommend. That said not all lifts are the same. A Clayton 2.5 is basically the same as the meta cloak 3.5 inch. Personally I think the Clayton 3.5 is the Goldilocks of lift height as it will clear big tires easily, has enough length to run long shocks, and is stiff enough to do real truck stuff still like tow and haul at or above payload.

If your max tire size is 37, go with a Clayton 2.5, mc 3.5, or rock crawler 3. If you are going bigger I'd step up another inch personally

 

[Escape.idiocracy]

Primarily rock crawling with a little desert trail running in the mix. We take it pretty chill in the desert so we don’t crack our skulls on the roll cage. It needs to still be streetable tho

So- low center of gravity is important.
Core 4x4 control arms top tier have Johnny joints.
Springs- metal cloak usually has the longest unsprung length.
You will need a front drive shaft if you’re planning on any significant droop.
get the control arms, and springs, with the tires off determine your max droop. Stick tires on determine minimum compressed length. Throw $$$ at shocks. That meet those dimensions.
Rubicon fenders with pulled inners will give you added up travel which will go in ties with low center of gravity and max clearance.

Res shocks will help with heat and allow for a little fun/speed for awhile. Front hydro bumps will help when the unforeseen big bumps are found too late.

 

[Wheelin98TJ]

Spacers and factory shocks isn’t much to build on. It’s basically just for looks because there is no more travel than stock height.

Clayton, Evo, and MC all make nice stuff. You can’t really go wrong with any of them.

 

[whysoserious]

Keep in mind, your final "lift height" will also depend on what accoutrements you add on later, if any. Heavy bumpers, winches, belly armor, etc. For example, I have steel front and rear bumpers and a Warn winch. MC 3.5" gave me 4" of lift.

Photo for reference...

 

[Muddyape]

Clayton 3.5 overland plus with 39” BFG KM3. Puts me at 30” to bottom of door. No too big, To me the proportions are spot on with the higher fender line

 

[tysongladiator]

My opinion only!

When you're looking at lifts for your intended purpose, look at everything. What I mean is that I've rock crawled with a Mopar 2" lift on 37x13.50s for four 4yrs. It rode great, wheeled great, and I had no issues. To solve tire clearance during flex, I added aftermarket fenders and bumpstop. Worked out great.

Upgraded to a MC 3.5" for more clearance. Same fenders and added a lil more bumpstop. Shock extensions and extended brake lines so no issues there. And adjustable control arms are your friend!

I'd say that a 3.5" lift from a manufacturer might be your sweet spot. Ride won't be completely sacrificed and you can still get great wheeling out of it. And like others have mentioned, the weight of bumpers, winch, etc. will matter. I had a bumper once that was so heavy that it had a horrible front rake and as soon as I would hit the brakes, it would make a had dip. Replaced it with a lighter but stronger bumper and I would swear it seemed like I gained about 1/2".

Oh, I forgot to mention. I also daily my JT, tow, and haul with it. 160,000 miles.

 

[MPMB]

Ok adding to the “what lift is best for me” threads LOL. Finish my build and wondering what direction I should go. I am looking at Clayton, Evo and Metalcloak. I currently have a Sport with the max tow. It also has 5.13 gears and Eaton e-lockers. When I bought the Jeep I was told there was a 3 1/2” lift on it. Turns out it is just spacers with the base Fox 2.0 shocks and all the factory control arms. It is sitting on 37’s. My question is this. It is also my daily driver. We are starting to really get into the more technical rocky stuff here in the SW and want to increase the capability of the rig. Looking for clearance and articulation. Do I go with a full 3 1/2” or 4 1/2” kit or can I make some upgrades and work with what is currently on the Jeep? Any advice helps. Thanks

You're better off with a proper lift than just pucks. Pucks are slightly better than body lifts, imo.

I would lean towards a Clayton lift; everyone seems to have a great opinion of them. MC is fine, I'm just not a fan of gold.

Piecemealing a lift together is time consuming and likely more expensive.

If you plan on getting a rack/canopy/RTT, opt for the heavy duty/overland rear springs.

 

[Zachanadandy]

I think the low cog concept is pointless on the JT. On a swb rig it makes sense. These things have such a long wheel base and long rear overhang that they need more clearance above anything else in the rocks especially. If I were building for rocks I'd go 4.5" and 39s or bigger on anything this long. Our JLUR with 3.5" of lift and 39s is perfect in the rocks. Balanced, not tippy or top heavy at all, and I'm not dragging the belly all the time. My Mojave isn't built for the rocks, it's our go fast desert rig so 2" and 37s were as tall as I wanted to go. No intention of doing any hard rock trails in it though.

 

[MrClortho]

I went from stock on 32's, to a 2.5" on 35's, to a 3.5" lift on 37s that ended up being more like 5" of lift rear and maybe 4.5" front. I would not go smaller for sure.

Keep in mind, some lifts give more height than advertised, like Clayton.

 

[Scott L]

Just personal opinion but I do think the long wheelbase looks and works better with more lift.(on rocks at least) I am going 3.5 Game Changer and 37s. I may change springs eventually to 4 or 5. Whatever you go with definitely want adjustable control arms ETC.

 

[JTGuy]

I enjoy reading about others plans. I now have 37s and love them. My Mopar 2 inch lift just barely clears them but does. Not sure if I want to do springs or just add a 1/2 inch spacer and keep the Mopar springs. Getting Accutune Fox shocks also. I would really consider Synergy 3 inch springs, they seem to be high quality. I don't do boulders or fast desert. I am a little surprised that there is no talk of JKS or Terraflex.

 

[Camaroboi13]

Piecemealing a lift together is time consuming and likely more expensive.

Depending on the person, this is far from the truth. Quite the opposite in my experience. The only benefit I don’t have is the ability to call one company when something goes bad.

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