3.6L ESS Battery Cable Diagram

[Jaxmax]

Cleanest way if you want to remove most of the wiring, as I am going to do, is putting the jumper between N-1 and N-3, Hootbro's post above sends you to a site , cost shipped I think was $12, It only has to be about six inches and will clean it up very much there.......Jack

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[Mr._Bill]

Thank you. The reason I was asking is instead of making a jumper from N3 to N1, I was think of just getting the same fuse block as my wife's eTorque, I am not worried about the cost, just want it as clean as possible.
Another question, I know we can pull that fuse so the computer isn't doing that test. Could we also just unplug the wire from the PCR valve, or would that throw a code?

The computer still does the test. Removing the fuse prevents the relay from working, so the reading it takes is from the Main battery instead of the Aux battery.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Cleanest way if you want to remove most of the wiring, as I am going to do, is putting the jumper between N-1 and N-3, Hootbro's post above sends you to a site , cost shipped I think was $12, It only has to be about six inches and will clean it up very much there.......Jack

i can't see spending any money on a jumper, nor even using a fuse - since there's not one to begin with.
Some of those who sell you those "special jumpers" use a fuse holder..........why?
You have full battery power at all times to N1 - no fuse at all. Even the main/crank battery is tied to that, so you have two batteries in parallel most of the time connected to N1.
If it was me - I'd make a nice clean jumper, perhaps brass, coat it to insulate it, and make it fit fully under the PDC cover. Or use a wire - but what's the fuse all about when the factory didn't even fuse that?
I just don't like the bulk of those jumpers.
But then I have 2 lifetime supplies of wire and terminals and can toss one together in the time it would take to order one, so there's that.

 

[dayusmc]

After thinking about it. I can move the wires from N2 to N3 and make a non fused jumper from N1 to N2. That should be neat and clean.

@Mr._Bill wouldn't unplugging the PCR be the same as pulling the fuse? I mean the little connector plugged into the PCR. If that is unplugged the relay should not work. I know it is more work, but I am not talking about what is easier, I am talking about if it will achieve the same thing as pulling the fuse...

 

[Mr._Bill]

After thinking about it. I can move the wires from N2 to N3 and make a non fused jumper from N1 to N2. That should be neat and clean.

@Mr._Bill wouldn't unplugging the PCR be the same as pulling the fuse? I mean the little connector plugged into the PCR. If that is unplugged the relay should not work. I know it is more work, but I am not talking about what is easier, I am talking about if it will achieve the same thing as pulling the fuse...

Pulling the wire achieves the same effect as pulling the fuse. It is more work and not as clean. Now you have the connector that is exposed, and the dangling wire to deal with.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

IMO, there's enough to deal with that's a lot more FUN - so mine stay intact with occasional battery maintenance, resetting things every couple of years, etc.
100 ways to deal with it, strip it and trade it, leave it be, pull fuse, pull all wiring, Genesis dual battery setup, trade for Prius.........

 

[dayusmc]

I would actually take the PCR out and tape the connector back. Everything I so is clean.
I ordered the Genesis battery tray. When that come in I plan on doing the whole job, neat and clean removing the no longer used parts. My gladiator is not under warranty anymore, so it is no big deal.

 

[dayusmc]

trade for Prius.........

???
I do a lot of things that others don't and maybe don't make sense to them, but I am picky with my stuff.
Just the same as when I was making my Tazer Mini relocation harness and putting CAN bus immobilizers from Germany... In that tread people posted it won't work, blah blah blah .. I did it, it works perfectly and achieves exactly what I wanted to do, PIN lock with the Tazer with the Tazer being hidden so it can't be defeated.
I do things a different way. My Jeeps are a hobby for me, I don't rock crawl of off-road, but I like working on the. Much more relaxing than my day job....

 

[ShadowsPapa]

???
I do a lot of things that others don't and maybe don't make sense to them, but I am picky with my stuff.
Just the same as when I was making my Tazer Mini relocation harness and putting CAN bus immobilizers from Germany... In that tread people posted it won't work, blah blah blah .. I did it, it works perfectly and achieves exactly what I wanted to do, PIN lock with the Tazer with the Tazer being hidden so it can't be defeated.
I do things a different way. My Jeeps are a hobby for me, I don't rock crawl of off-road, but I like working on the. Much more relaxing than my day job....

I actually followed your PIN code device relocation posts - a clever and clean way to accomplish some security.
It was creative - and cleanly done, looking factory.
Of course you had to find the wires in play, those that tazer used and follow them around the Jeep but you got 'er done. wasn't so much as a "doubt" it would work - more like a "wow that's going to involve some deep diving into the wiring diagrams and schematics".

 

[dayusmc]

Here are pictures of my Wife's 2022 JLU with eTorque fuse box and battery terminals. I have to look at mine now. Her's has the same towing package as mine..

 

[dayusmc]

And these pictures are from my 2020 Mojave ..

 

[Jaxmax]

After thinking about it. I can move the wires from N2 to N3 and make a non fused jumper from N1 to N2. That should be neat and clean.

@Mr._Bill wouldn't unplugging the PCR be the same as pulling the fuse? I mean the little connector plugged into the PCR. If that is unplugged the relay should not work. I know it is more work, but I am not talking about what is easier, I am talking about if it will achieve the same thing as pulling the fuse...

NO...NO...NO, do not swap N-3 to N-2, and put an unfused jumper between N1-N2.!! N-2 is battery power to the bus, N-3 is the fuse to the electronics. doing what you suggest is tying the electronics to the bus unfused. The simplest way to clean it up if wanting to remove the wiring is an unfused jumper between N-3 and N-1, as the fuse of N-3 protects the electronics on N-1. N-1 is not a terminal on the bus but outgoing to the electronics. Changing out a fuse block sounds simple , but it is really a lot more to it then just putting a jumper in between two terminals, you have six wires her car has four and a solid jumper between N-1 and N-3 , but are the fuse blocks the same, if not that could get real expensive....Jack

 

[dayusmc]

Am I looking at the picture wrong? To me it appears here Jeep has a solid jumper from N1 to N2

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Am I looking at the picture wrong? To me it appears here Jeep has a solid jumper from N1 to N2

Etorque and probably 4xe would jumper that - I think this is what you are looking at -

Found it, yeah, 4xe has that jumped as well - here's from ours and the fuse area looks similar to yours -

I never noticed that before.

 

[dayusmc]

Etorque and probably 4xe would jumper that - I think this is what you are looking at -

Found it, yeah, 4xe has that jumped as well - here's from ours and the fuse area looks similar to yours -

I never noticed that before.

Yes that is what I am talking about.

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