30k Service - do I need to do all these items?

[culdbbi]

I go to the dealer to get my oil changes and tire rotations included in the jeep wave program. I've already changed my air cabin filter once (I work in a dirty environment). I'll be coming up on year 3 of ownership, so I drive more than 12k a year, but not crazy. I don't go offloading, but I do have a lead foot

I don't mind wrenching in my driveway, so long as there is a YouTube video to help me along. I know I've never changed brake fluid on a car I've owned, and didn't realize how susceptible to water it is. I live in the PNW, and we have plenty of water and humidity. So maybe I'll lean a new skill and change the fluid in all my vehicles.

I know dealerships are highway robbery, I've yet to find a shop I really trust. If anyway is in South Sound area and has a place, let me know. Otherwise, I'll be changin fluids in my driveway.

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[Caraholic]

Do I need all this at 30k, I'm assuming the fuel system stuff I can't do myself. Filters I have covered. I can't believe the brake fluid need replacing. And is the 4×4 just service, just draining and replacing diff oil?

No

 

[Minty JL]

30k for me with a background as a tech.

1) trans service.....fluid and filter
2) front/rear diffs
3) transfer case fluid
4) oil change (based off from the 5k schedule
5) brake fluid flush.....I normally do it every 30k or 24 months. Remember brake fluid retains water

2, 3 and 4 can be done at home super easy. 1 and 5 Don't require special tools, but the kno

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Do what you want, it's your truck, but as far as brakes, if you want it from the people that MAKE the brakes, not the auto maker, here's the scoop direct from Bendix.
I have info from other brake companies as well since I used to do a ton of brake service (and trained in them)

From the horses mouth since I'm just an ordinary guy (but I suspect their percentages are a bit on the high side - heck I could be wrong, I just work on them, I don't design them) -


Brake fluid is a glycol-based fluid that remains fluid even when freezing and remains effective as a hydraulic fluid even at high temperatures. It is expected to work in freezing winter and in extremely hot summer months. It is a versatile fluid that does its job in all temperature extremes. However, brake fluid by nature absorbs moisture from the atmosphere through the microscopic pores in brake lines and through the small vent in the reservoir. In fact brake fluid begins to take in moisture the moment you pour it into your braking system.

After a year in service, brake fluid would have absorbed about 2% water and will have progressed to 3% water after only 18 months. These figures would be a lot higher in places that are humid and wet. Moisture in brake fluid decreases its boiling point – 2% water will reduce the brake fluid’s boiling point by 75°C. The boiling point drop becomes more pronounced as more moisture is absorbed.

Moisture contamination heightens the risk of brake failure especially during extreme braking conditions like driving downhill or in constant stop and go in heavy traffic or when carrying heavy loads. Constant braking transmits a lot of heat to the brake fluid from the pads and rotors. If a considerable degree of moisture were present, these would easily boil off and form vapour which is extremely compressible and this is when the pedal starts feeling spongy and the brakes would not apply at all!!

This is the reason why there have been many cases of brake failures even if the braking systems were found to be mechanically in order. In fact, the brakes worked perfectly again after the system has cooled down and the vapour has condensed.

Presence of vapour in the brake fluid also affects the performance of the Anti-lock brake systems (ABS). The ABS pulsates about 15 times a second and the brake fluid’s viscosity is an important factor for the proper operation of the ABS. The presence of moisture and/or vapour in the brake fluid alters its viscosity characteristics and will result in improper operation of the ABS.


And from another site about brakes - it's not just the water, the additives break down - heat, age, etc. -


Over time, the brake fluid's boiling point starts to lower as it absorbs far more water, and additives such as corrosion inhibitors start to ...

(I didn't copy the whole paragraph in here, you get the gist.

So that water % gauge isn't going to do the trick. Just do the fluid flush and refresh. You'll only be checking what's in the reservoir, not down the line, in the ABS pumps, the caliper chambers and so on. Plus it can't gauge the additives that help prevent rust.
I've taken brakes off that weren't that old and actually gotten a thick sludge out the end of the line. Apparently the fluid had lost the ability to inhibit rust and it was yuk.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

30k for me with a background as a tech.

1) trans service.....fluid and filter
2) front/rear diffs
3) transfer case fluid
4) oil change (based off from the 5k schedule
5) brake fluid flush.....I normally do it every 30k or 24 months. Remember brake fluid retains water

2, 3 and 4 can be done at home super easy. 1 and 5 Don't require special tools, but the kno

It was amazing how filthy my cabin filter was after only a bit over a year. But then - the dust you can't see....... and this is farm country. Planting season, field work season, harvest. Even the air purifiers in the house (and our house seals very well) get more dirty certain times of year so you can imagine filters on a vehicle.

Yeah, 2, 3 and 4 are just "pay attention", not technical at all types of things.

 

[Maximus Gladius]

Is this US dollars?

You US folks should just drive over the boarder here to Canada and pay next to nothing for service, after exchange.

 

[IPRoutes]

Not for the brake system flush if they have a $175-$200 hourly rate. Count in the cost of fluid, putting the ABS into the mode to flush the system, you have that much in labor and fluid.

I'm just amazed at the logic - the people who won't spend $200 on safety - like BRAKES, will of course spend $2,000 for a bumper to impress their peers.

Cabin air filters etc. - go to Amazon, buy 'em, replace them. The cabin filters are as easier if not easier than the engine air filter, IMO. You can buy either OEM or name brand replacements like AC and so on for the filters.

Yes. And I wouldn't wait for 30k miles for the filters. It is good insurance to change the engine air filter at least every 15k miles depending on where you live. In dusty Vegas, I change at 10k miles even for daily driving. The filter is just 30 bucks, give or take and takes less than 5 minutes for even a novice to change.

 

[dcmdon]

Searching the web (because I'm too damn lazy to check the owner's manual), I found that according to KBB, Jeep recommends the following at 32000 miles:

• Rotate tires
• Inspect all door latches for presence of grease, reapply if necessary
• Inspect battery and clean and tighten terminals as required
• Inspect brake pads, shoes, rotors, drums, hoses and parking brake
• Inspect engine air cleaner filter, replace if necessary
• Inspect engine cooling system protection and hoses
• Inspect exhaust system

I was just about to mention that you should do the stuff Jeep recommends and anything else that makes sense to you.

When I was a service writer we would always get these snake oil salesmen trying to get us to add stuff into our service. Wyns Xtend comes first to mind.

The "problem" with modern cars is that they don't need a whole lot of maintenance.

If you want to do it yourself, then fantastic. Just keep good records.

Here is a copy of a 36k service I did on my wife's Miata eons ago. It just happens to be the only one I've scanned.

 

[Lost1wing]

Ask a few neighbors if they ever have their brake fluid flushed. This will give you the confidence to put it off for a couple of years. If you submerge your undercarriage frequently, sure do it all.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Ask a few neighbors if they ever have their brake fluid flushed. This will give you the confidence to put it off for a couple of years. If you submerge your undercarriage frequently, sure do it all.

You can also drive without a license, with no insurance, with no seat belts, leave your phone at home, run on 12 year old tires, skip a lot of stuff - until that one time.
Because "everyone else is doing it" isn't a great way to judge safety maintenance.
When you see the results first-hand, you think a little harder.

Submerging the undercarriage has nothing to do with brake fluid.
You should see some of the stuff I've seen over the years - including people hitting their brakes only to find them not there.

 

[Vtur]

Imo, the US are over maintenance their vehicles. The ways i goes about it is, in factory stock form, If any vehicle keeps on having issues even though i follows manufacturer recommendation, than it's not the vehicle to keeps long term. I'd rather saved the unnecessary cost for possible future parts replacement.

 

[Lunentucker]

 

[Gren71]

Doesn’t seem too awfully hard to do on your own…actually seems like a task I wouldn’t mind tackling one day.

first is my trans fluid swap. Then i guess brake fluid flush

 

[Lost1wing]

You can also drive without a license, with no insurance, with no seat belts, leave your phone at home, run on 12 year old tires, skip a lot of stuff - until that one time.
Because "everyone else is doing it" isn't a great way to judge safety maintenance.
When you see the results first-hand, you think a little harder.

Submerging the undercarriage has nothing to do with brake fluid.
You should see some of the stuff I've seen over the years - including people hitting their brakes only to find them not there.

Those dust boots are always water tight? And caliper pistons never get wet? We have moisture wicking rubber brake lines? If your undercarriage is submerged in water, I would think axle and driveshaft seals have also seen some water. Same goes for calipers. I see that as being the largest point of moisture contamination. I'm not against flushing the brake lines. I have done it several times on several cars. But I also have cars that it has never been done. The only way that you would be able to tell is if you were on the race track and got things hot enough. It's not worth the risk of a shop doing it wrong or pissing your money away because they only swapped the fluid in the reservoir. These articles are great for the race track, showing the degradation of fluid over time., but It's just not done on that schedule in the real world. My 2000 with original fluid still in it will still activate the abs and lock up the wheels. Sure it could be better. Letting a relatively new vehicle go for a couple years is not a safety concern. If the dust boots on the calipers are in poor shape and water is suspected to have entered, that's a different story.

Who was it that loves these long drawn out posts?

 

[ezekio3160]

What about transmission oil change intervals? And how do we check oil level since no tranny dip stick is available

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