3rd shock over rear axle

[jeepin48]

So I finally got around to add the 3rd shock over the rear axle on my 2021 Overland Diesel and I was surprised to find there was no upper frame mount . I guess I will further suffer wheel hop in the sand...... If anyone is looking for a kit I have a like new one for sale.

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[DAVECS1]

What kit do you have???

 

[jeepin48]

What kit do you have???

It is the Bilstien shock and bracket for the top of the rear dif. Make sure you have bracket on the frame cross member. Not all have it apparently.

 

[LOGS]

Curious if this helps the diesels in the sand.

 

[DAVECS1]

What's the price I have the bracket

 

[XraytecH]

Axle wrap is a concern on leaf spring suspension is it not?

 

[Jaxmax]

I'm interested if Dave passes....Jack

 

[Mash5]

Axle wrap is a concern on leaf spring suspension is it not?

Yes it is, but it can also be a problem with a 5 link. Under the wrong conditions, like high throttle in the sand or modest throttle in deep snow, the axle can load up and then slip and unload generating a hopping of the axle and a lose of traction.

 

[@californiajeeping]

Axle wrap is a concern on leaf spring suspension is it not?

This isnt to combat axle wrap but axle hop which is different cause. Axle hop typically is caused by sudden loading unloading of the tires. Its exaggerated by large tires and long travel soft riding springs.

This probably wont do a while lot in all honesty. A better solution would be shocks with better dampening or more rebound dampening.

Or airbags in the springs that get aried up when in the sand.

I used to get wheelhop with my 2015 JK until i went to a teraflex prerunner kit. It had fox resevoir shocks and tall stiff (very stiff) springs that got it under control. My 2020 Gladiator sport s maxtow had no wheel hop in sand or snow......My 2022 diesel sport s has lots of wheel hop. It has much softer springs and shocks.

 

[DAVECS1]

I personally would like to have it to save wear and tear on my upper links and drive shaft. Also a bit on Fox 2.5s. With the supercharger my starts are probably a bit more spirited more of the time. Having this shock in there will help slow weight transfer and shock loading from a jack rabbit start. It is my guess that is why it was in the manual machines.

 

[Rusty PW]

When Ram changed the rear suspension from leaf springs to coil springs on the Power Wagons. They had the shock above the axle for a few years. Then discontinued it. The guys that had it on, said it made no difference in wheel hop control.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Axle wrap is a concern on leaf spring suspension is it not?

It's a concern on coils too due to bushing compression under torque.
Check some of the drag racing sites discussing it. It's where there's some "wrap" because the bushings in the upper and lower control arms are compressed as the axle tries to wind up then the forces overcome the traction and the slippage allows the compression on the bushings to be released.
The whole thing causes a hopping action.
It's all the same cause.
Jeep calls that part "power hop" shock, but it's all similar causes - winding and unwinding of either springs, or the compression and release of bushings in links.
Even my truck will do it - stock height tires.
Anyway, it's something that a coil spring rear suspension is not necessarily immune to.

EDIT - some of the stuff I had saved from a while back on the topic and possible causes (even IRS race cars experience wheel hop.)
Some quotes I had saved -
“Wheel hop can be caused by a variety of things, from the wrong shocks to a better surface than the tire can handle or more power than the tire can handle, but the biggest thing that we really see is bushing deflection within the suspension system,” Epple said. “In an IRS car, you would see cradle bushing deflection, differential bushing deflection, and it creates large amounts of movement within the system that causes the tire to lose traction and then gain traction and lose traction and gain traction.”

Bushing deflection sets in motion an oscillation that occurs throughout the entire rear suspension. The condition is somewhat common on cars with independent rear suspensions, but it can occur on cars with live axles, too, particularly those that use coil springs and control arms.

 

[Rusty PW]

It's a concern on coils too due to bushing compression under torque.
Check some of the drag racing sites discussing it. It's where there's some "wrap" because the bushings in the upper and lower control arms are compressed as the axle tries to wind up then the forces overcome the traction and the slippage allows the compression on the bushings to be released.
The whole thing causes a hopping action.
It's all the same cause.
Jeep calls that part "power hop" shock, but it's all similar causes - winding and unwinding of either springs, or the compression and release of bushings in links.
Even my truck will do it - stock height tires.
Anyway, it's something that a coil spring rear suspension is not necessarily immune to.

EDIT - some of the stuff I had saved from a while back on the topic and possible causes (even IRS race cars experience wheel hop.)
Some quotes I had saved -
“Wheel hop can be caused by a variety of things, from the wrong shocks to a better surface than the tire can handle or more power than the tire can handle, but the biggest thing that we really see is bushing deflection within the suspension system,” Epple said. “In an IRS car, you would see cradle bushing deflection, differential bushing deflection, and it creates large amounts of movement within the system that causes the tire to lose traction and then gain traction and lose traction and gain traction.”

Bushing deflection sets in motion an oscillation that occurs throughout the entire rear suspension. The condition is somewhat common on cars with independent rear suspensions, but it can occur on cars with live axles, too, particularly those that use coil springs and control arms.

On my Nismo. I swapped out all of the rubber suspension bushings for spherical bearings. And the rear sub-frame and diff housing rubber bushing to solid aluminum bushings. Wasn't cheap to do it. Big difference in handling. Almost no wheel hop now, depending on pavement temperature. The 345/30-19 Michelin Cup R-Dot tires are sensitive to pavement temps on the street.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

On my Nismo. I swapped out all of the rubber suspension bushings for spherical bearings. And the rear sub-frame and diff housing rubber bushing to solid aluminum bushings. Wasn't cheap to do it. Big difference in handling. Almost no wheel hop now, depending on pavement temperature. The 345/30-19 Michelin Cup R-Dot tires are sensitive to pavement temps on the street.

Bingo.
I figured Paul Harvey might show up with the rest of the story.
Yeah, that's great for performance, track, serious application - but how was it as far as feel on a road with tiny pebbles, imperfect expansion joints or vibrations?
Your solution was on the "more extreme" side - poly bushings can help resolve some of the bushing compression/spring action as well, but like a number of classic car people have said - keep your dentures glued in firmly and hope the new hip joints don't rattle on rough roads.

 

[Rusty PW]

Bingo.
I figured Paul Harvey might show up with the rest of the story.
Yeah, that's great for performance, track, serious application - but how was it as far as feel on a road with tiny pebbles, imperfect expansion joints or vibrations?
Your solution was on the "more extreme" side - poly bushings can help resolve some of the bushing compression/spring action as well, but like a number of classic car people have said - keep your dentures glued in firmly and hope the new hip joints don't rattle on rough roads.

The ride is smoother because the bearings are not holding the suspension pieces in place. For an example. When I did the front upper control arms. I disconnected the upper ball joint and dropped the spindle down. The upper arm stayed in place, not moving at all. I could push down on it and it would spring back up to the same position. When I swapped out the arm with one that had the spherical bearings. Had no trouble moving it up and down by hand. The rubber bushings have a lot of stiction. There is a slight increase in NVH. The spring rates are stiff, and the dampening is too. So it's going to feel more of the road. It's not a bad ride. With 295/35-19 front and 345/30-19 Mich Cup tires on it. It does tramline. BUT boy.........does it stick to the road when the tires have some heat in them. Everyone who has driven the car on the street. After 5 minutes, they all said, "here's my driver's license. I'm going to lose it." The car just makes you want to go faster. Go from 60 to 160 just by pressing down a little harder on the loud pedal in a few seconds. It's "shits and giggles."

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