4.10 gears

u-joint

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Also keep in mind that if you're going to go through with all this time and expense of re-gearing, it's worth going for better than stock. So, while the math might say that 4.10 is a 1:1 after you upgrade tires, but in reality does anyone want to go through all of this to "keep what they have"?

That's why I'd recommend 4.88s if you're doing 35s. Possibly 4.56s if you're doing a lot of highway driving.

I ran 5.13s with 35s on my JK w/ a 6-speed. MAN that was some super low gearing :like:

 

Wheelin98TJ

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I followed the gear formula and its closer to 4.10s. Why do you say not deep enough for 35s? I'm new to the whole jeep life 😁
The others said it pretty well.

With 35s, you have bigger, heavier tires with more rolling resistance. So while the diameter increased 10% and changed the final drive ratio 10%, the overall impact is greater than that.

35s with 4.56 = about 2,200 RPM at 70 mph
35s with 4.88 = about 2,400 RPM at 70 mph

Any less RPM and you won't be able to comfortably cruise in 8th on the highway.
 
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Jraygoza

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4.88

or

4.56

I thought the gears were going to be super expensive thats why I was looking at used. I found these in amazon. I don't drive on the highway much only when traveling to get the badges, my job is only 5 minutes away. off-road is the beach and ocasional mud pit. Which will be a better fit?

Thank You
 

Wheelin98TJ

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4.88

or

4.56

I thought the gears were going to be super expensive thats why I was looking at used. I found these in amazon. I don't drive on the highway much only when traveling to get the badges, my job is only 5 minutes away. off-road is the beach and ocasional mud pit. Which will be a better fit?

Thank You
I do not trust those gear sets. Never heard of that name and they're too cheap.
 

Rusty PW

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4.88

or

4.56

I thought the gears were going to be super expensive thats why I was looking at used. I found these in amazon. I don't drive on the highway much only when traveling to get the badges, my job is only 5 minutes away. off-road is the beach and ocasional mud pit. Which will be a better fit?

Thank You
Please, do not get those gear sets. Do yourself a favor and get a brand name. Dana, Yukon. Think if you got those knock offs. You would have problems. They're cheap for a reason.
 


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Jraygoza

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Ok, will look into brand names, but which ones 4.56 or 4.88?
 

Wheelin98TJ

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Ok, will look into brand names, but which ones 4.56 or 4.88?
4.88.

2,400 RPM at 70 is right where you want to be when you have a 0.67 OD ratio, not much power, and a brick-shaped vehicle.
 

ShadowsPapa

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Reuse the bearings? That might be an even worse idea than used gears. I've never done a Dana 44, but usually the bearings and races are press fit. They are meant for that to be done once. IF you get them out without distorting or damaging them, they still arent going to hold like they are supposed to. And bad things happen when parts spin that arent supposed to.
........no kidding. You should see the shims I removed from the right side of a carrier a few months ago. Obviously there was a problem as the shims were scored and gouged. Hmmm, if the bearing race or cup isn't turning, how's that happen? It was just starting to dig into the differential housing itself. Caught it.

sx4-carrier-brng_3678.jpg
 

CerOf

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mathematically, you are correct. I think 4.15 or something would be exact. But real world is different. You have bigger tires, they weigh more. They have more rotational mass. It takes more horsepower to get them rolling ( and stopped). That adds stress to the axles and differential. Like I said, even the Max Tow Sport gets 4.10s with the same 31.5s you have, and the Jeeps with 33s like the Rubicon all get 4.10s stock. There's a reason Jeep uses 4.10s for 33" tires.

Can you run 35s on your 4.10 Rubicon without regearing? Sure, plenty do. It
s a bit dogish but drivable. But if you are already regearing, the gears are only a few hundred bucks per differential. For $500-600 more to do the job (assuming the used 4.10s are free), you would be a whole lot happier.
Don’t forget increased wind resistance. That’s my nemesis!
 

Slojo

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I went through this on my JK. It had 3.23s. All of the advice was to change it by at least one when you go to bigger LT type tires. I went to 4.10s with Wildpeak 33s. Made a huge difference
 


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Jraygoza

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Ok guys, going with 4.88, all after market gears will fit my sport right? All gralidators have the dana 44, correct?
 
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Jraygoza

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4.88.

2,400 RPM at 70 is right where you want to be when you have a 0.67 OD ratio, not much power, and a brick-shaped vehicle.
what about driving in the city will I waste a ton of gas? its going to fast or stockish right?
 

Wheelin98TJ

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what about driving in the city will I waste a ton of gas? its going to fast or stockish right?
Nope.

Well, maybe. The increased torque multiplication might lead you to get your foot into it more often.

If you drive it like you drive it now, no change in city MPG.
 
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Jraygoza

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Nope.

Well, maybe. The increased torque multiplication might lead you to get your foot into it more often.

If you drive it like you drive it now, no change in city MPG.

I drive like a turtle, I don't like driving fast.
 

Bonanza

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Ok guys, going with 4.88, all after market gears will fit my sport right? All gralidators have the dana 44, correct?
See my thread. Be sure to get M210/M220 gears. Hope your BIL is a trained mechanic, because setting gears correctly is not easy. Ask me how I know.

 

 
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