KurtP
Well-Known Member
Im not trying to argue, but i consider Yukon a cut rate kit. They arent as hardened, peened, or polish as nitro or dana/spicer gears. Ive held a couple broken yukon rp’s in my hand, and ill never use their gears. The reason we see so many locker failures in these JL/JT’s is because the locker actuator magnet is submerged in the diff oil. As the yukon gears shed material -and they do more than quality kits by alot- you run a higher risk of those flakes getting into the actuator and toasting the locker.This was a master kit install... bearings seals, ring pinion etc. Yukon part number YGK069
Appreciating you didnt ask me for my opinion, but if i had to install yukon gears, id put the cheapest gear oil i could find in and change it on 500mi intervals, each time blasting the crud out of the diff housing, and repeating until the housing was clear of material at change 2 or 4, then fill it with quality gear oil and i wouldnt activate the locker until the housing checked clear of material debris at a change. Make sure you run those gears HARD for a change or two, too. I dunno if yukons stop shedding at any point after a break in or not; or if its hit and miss batches of material, or what. Im just a hard pass on them. Ive heard some claim that yukons and nitro’s and other all get cut in the same place and then branded later; but that contradicts the experience i have with them and what ive heard from other shops that have had issues with yukon. So im not sure. Cut same place? Different? Different hardening or finishing process here in the states after? I honestly dont know what of all this is or isnt true; just that ive never had pieces of nitro or dana gears in my hands or on a rag or magnet.
But, looks like you got a nice touch up with wholesale pricing and super cheap labor rate that isnt available to most people. Its a’ easy 10hr job, so ~$50/hr is about 1/3 the rate around here. Im jealous!!!
Enjoy the torque!
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