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5.13s go in tomorrow!

KurtP

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This was a master kit install... bearings seals, ring pinion etc. Yukon part number YGK069
Im not trying to argue, but i consider Yukon a cut rate kit. They arent as hardened, peened, or polish as nitro or dana/spicer gears. Ive held a couple broken yukon rp’s in my hand, and ill never use their gears. The reason we see so many locker failures in these JL/JT’s is because the locker actuator magnet is submerged in the diff oil. As the yukon gears shed material -and they do more than quality kits by alot- you run a higher risk of those flakes getting into the actuator and toasting the locker.

Appreciating you didnt ask me for my opinion, but if i had to install yukon gears, id put the cheapest gear oil i could find in and change it on 500mi intervals, each time blasting the crud out of the diff housing, and repeating until the housing was clear of material at change 2 or 4, then fill it with quality gear oil and i wouldnt activate the locker until the housing checked clear of material debris at a change. Make sure you run those gears HARD for a change or two, too. I dunno if yukons stop shedding at any point after a break in or not; or if its hit and miss batches of material, or what. Im just a hard pass on them. Ive heard some claim that yukons and nitro’s and other all get cut in the same place and then branded later; but that contradicts the experience i have with them and what ive heard from other shops that have had issues with yukon. So im not sure. Cut same place? Different? Different hardening or finishing process here in the states after? I honestly dont know what of all this is or isnt true; just that ive never had pieces of nitro or dana gears in my hands or on a rag or magnet.

But, looks like you got a nice touch up with wholesale pricing and super cheap labor rate that isnt available to most people. Its a’ easy 10hr job, so ~$50/hr is about 1/3 the rate around here. Im jealous!!!

Enjoy the torque!
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syreeves

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You must be kin to the shop owner!
the quote I got seemed high but $575 in labor you paid is definetly well below typical pricing. Good for you! I’m going with 5.13 as well for my 37s. Still undecided on lockers. Not many options. ARBs will cost me an additional $3000 when it’s all said and done.
Why are you adding ARBs (lockers right?)? I mean - are you getting rid of working factory lockers? Are you heavy duty crawling? Or just building the best you can build? Just curious not judging!
 

FLUndertaker

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Why are you adding ARBs (lockers right?)? I mean - are you getting rid of working factory lockers? Are you heavy duty crawling? Or just building the best you can build? Just curious not judging!
Fair question.
mine is just a max tow, not a Rubi so only Trac lock equipped rear, open front. If I’m going to open the diffs now is the time to add lockers. Not much rock crawling but fair amount of mud

my local shop asserts that Yukon is an upgrade from Dana Spicer gears. This seems to be contrary to most opinions here.
 

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I went as far west as Winchester WV; and as far south as middle NC. Guy in NC was a little cheaper but Bull Run gives a lifetime warranty. Im $2500 all in; Dana gears with master bearings kits, lucas oil, and the 500-1000mi check and refil. Its the best i could find in the area. I was getting quotes at $3500
Unrelated to most of the conversation, but Winchester is still VA, though WV isn’t far from it. I know because that’s where I’m from lol
 

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I went as far west as Winchester WV; and as far south as middle NC. Guy in NC was a little cheaper but Bull Run gives a lifetime warranty. Im $2500 all in; Dana gears with master bearings kits, lucas oil, and the 500-1000mi check and refil. Its the best i could find in the area. I was getting quotes at $3500
After checking them out, I think it will be worth the road trip for me, thanks again.
 

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21RG

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Not many options. ARBs will cost me an additional $3000 when it’s all said and done.
I can't stand ARB. The locker itself is a solid design, you won't break it.

The issue is all the plumbing and more often than not, something will happen. Every vehicle I dealt that had ARB's, failed due the plumbing, and every friend I have that has ARB has had them fail due to plumbing.
Lost of discussions on what is at fault, that is besides the point. But the fact remains, the system fails for some reason.

I have not researched what is available for these yet. But the jeep axles are not new.
 

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You see a lot of bad installs of airlines with ARB lockers...
 

KurtP

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Unrelated to most of the conversation, but Winchester is still VA, though WV isn’t far from it. I know because that’s where I’m from lol
‘Aye. Whuteva’, guy. Issova’dehr. Hahaha
 

KurtP

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my local shop asserts that Yukon is an upgrade from Dana Spicer gears. This seems to be contrary to most opinions here.
Which do they sell?
 

syreeves

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Fair question.
mine is just a max tow, not a Rubi so only Trac lock equipped rear, open front. If I’m going to open the diffs now is the time to add lockers. Not much rock crawling but fair amount of mud

my local shop asserts that Yukon is an upgrade from Dana Spicer gears. This seems to be contrary to most opinions here.
Ah ok I understand. So are you going to put lockers in the front and rear? Outside of a few pretty unique situations I think front lockers are not useful for most people even in most situations. the 4WD system on a standard jeep i.e. no center differential, is already pretty good - 50/50 power split between the axles. Adding a rear locker helps most at boat ramps or the occasional ditch crossing (or substitute momentum!). For longevity and simplicity, if it were me, I'd add only the rear locker and save some $$$. I know you didn't ask my opinion but I spent a lot of time thinking about this with my prior vehicle. I got the Rubi and although I'm delighted to have a front locker I know someday I''ll break it and then I'll be wondering whether to fix, upgrade or go open and just think fondly about the switch on my dash. Anyway - looking forward to hearing how it goes thanks!
 

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Im not trying to argue, but i consider Yukon a cut rate kit. They arent as hardened, peened, or polish as nitro or dana/spicer gears. Ive held a couple broken yukon rp’s in my hand, and ill never use their gears. The reason we see so many locker failures in these JL/JT’s is because the locker actuator magnet is submerged in the diff oil. As the yukon gears shed material -and they do more than quality kits by alot- you run a higher risk of those flakes getting into the actuator and toasting the locker.

Appreciating you didnt ask me for my opinion, but if i had to install yukon gears, id put the cheapest gear oil i could find in and change it on 500mi intervals, each time blasting the crud out of the diff housing, and repeating until the housing was clear of material at change 2 or 4, then fill it with quality gear oil and i wouldnt activate the locker until the housing checked clear of material debris at a change. Make sure you run those gears HARD for a change or two, too. I dunno if yukons stop shedding at any point after a break in or not; or if its hit and miss batches of material, or what. Im just a hard pass on them. Ive heard some claim that yukons and nitro’s and other all get cut in the same place and then branded later; but that contradicts the experience i have with them and what ive heard from other shops that have had issues with yukon. So im not sure. Cut same place? Different? Different hardening or finishing process here in the states after? I honestly dont know what of all this is or isnt true; just that ive never had pieces of nitro or dana gears in my hands or on a rag or magnet.

But, looks like you got a nice touch up with wholesale pricing and super cheap labor rate that isnt available to most people. Its a’ easy 10hr job, so ~$50/hr is about 1/3 the rate around here. Im jealous!!!

Enjoy the torque!

In Southern California, I went with Rebel Off Road. It was quite a trek for me, 1.5 hour drive, but, the experience was painless. They do gears only on Wed. and Fri. and they had one guy on each diff.. I made an appointment, and ordered my gears from them ahead of time, and it was done in about 3-1/2 hours or so. I just waited. I also had them replace my front drive shaft at the same time. They advertise $1600 for Revolution Gears and charge approx. $2K if you want Dana Spicer with a free diff oil changes at 500 miles. They install lots of Revolution gears without issues. I went with the Dana Spicer 5:13s and they told me I could go 1000 miles before the change and their is a minimal break in, so, as you said, they were less concerned about the break in with the Dana Spicers. It is a long drive for me, so, I changed my rear end gear oil myself at 750 miles and there was minimal metal dust on the drain magnet. In fact, it seemed to me the same amount of metal dust that was there when I changed the fluid with the original 4:10 gears when the truck had 1K miles on it. Regarding break in, I just did the first "cool down". I drove about 1/2 hour, and let it completely cool down. After that it was pretty much normal driving, but, taking it easy. I live in a hilly mountainous area, so, uphill, then, downhill over and over. Lots of power and torque with 5:13s, loving it.
 
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KurtP

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In Southern California, I went with Rebel Off Road. It was quite a trek for me, 1.5 hour drive, but, the experience was painless. They do gears only on Wed. and Fri. and they had one guy on each diff.. I made an appointment, and ordered my gears from them ahead of time, and it was done in about 3-1/2 hours or so. I just waited. I also had them replace my front drive shaft at the same time. They advertise $1600 for Revolution Gears and charge approx. $2K if you want Dana Spicer with a free diff oil changes at 500 miles. They install lots of Revolution gears. I went with the Dana Spicer 5:13s and they told me I could go 1000 miles before the change and their is a minimal break in, so, as you said, they were less concerned about the break in with the Dana Spicers. It is a long drive for me, so, I changed my rear end gear oil myself at 750 miles and there was minimal metal dust on the drain magnet. In fact, it seemed to me the same amount of metal dust that was there when I changed the fluid with the original 4:10 gears when the truck had 1K miles on it. Regarding break in, I just did the first "cool down". I drove about 1/2 hour, and let it completely cool down. After that it was pretty much normal driving, but, taking it easy. I live in a hilly mountainous area, so, uphill, then, downhill over and over. Lots of power and torque with 5:13s, loving it.
That tracks with all my personal experience and with what ive heard from others. Thats also a great price and a great way to get a bug job done. Ive been blown away at the prices people get for gear changes in SoCal. When i lived in Cali i could barely afford to eat. Hahahaha

Id be curious to investigate exactly what factories in what countries make who’s gears; if the material and production standards are the same; and what heat/cryo/machining/polishing/other hardening goes into who’s brands.

I didnt do any axle or driveshaft change on mine, but i did do the Dana HD ball joints. Ill probably need a front ds at somepoint though.
 

KurtP

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