98000 miles and not a lick of trouble, and then. . .

[Mike White]

Been a member for a while, but not a big poster.
I've had my max tow for 5 years now and just passed 98,000 miles. Drove to Louisville last week and while there got an error message that I needed to have my ABS and TC serviced, with a check engine light. I took it to the local, small town dealership after I got home to have them investigate and they told me that the ABS module is going bad, but not available right now because it is on back order. No issues with driving the truck until they can get the new module in. So, on my way home from the dealership I had an alarm burst with multiple warning lights and several warning messages on the dash. The E brake light was lit and the speedos, both analog and digital, did not register. I was going to turn around when all the alarms cleared and the e brake light went out and the speedo came back. I thought "great, everyt hing reset. I'm good" and continued home. Well, turns out I'm not that smart. Over the weekend, while driving, I got another alarm burst, multiple warning messages again. I thought I'll try turning the truck off and restart it to see if it resets. it did not. in fact it also would not let me shift out of park for several minutes until everything reset and all the warning lights went out, and I was able to drive home. So, I called the dealership back. They scheduled another appointment and said that it looks like a bigger is a bigger issue than an ABS module.

Has anyone seen this?

How screwed am I?

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[Parkerjw121209]

I had the exact same issue with multiple error lights, speedo and rpm gauges, and inability to shift out of park. I ordered and replaced the cam bus (it’s located behind the glove box on the left side). Part was approximately $60.00. It’s been a month since I replaced it and not one error lights or check engine light. Youtube has numerous videos on swapping these out. Took about fifteen minutes and remember to disconnect the negative battery cables (both primary and aux cables from the primary battery’s negative post.

 

[MassMopar]

Just to rule it out, double check your battery is healthy and the terminals are all nice and tight. I had the explosion of idiot lights once, dealer was happy to charge me $125 for an hour of labor to diagnose a loose negative battery cable.

 

[Mike White]

Thank you. The can buss looks like it could be the culprit, although I wasnt able to find where to buy one.

Both batteries were replaced about a year ago. I know that would not rule it out, though. I will look at that as well.

Thank you

 

[WILDHOBO]

Thank you. The can buss looks like it could be the culprit, although I wasnt able to find where to buy one.

Both batteries were replaced about a year ago. I know that would not rule it out, though. I will look at that as well.

Thank you

If you find you actually need the abs module, even though it sounds like something else, I have one, maybe two. I don’t immediately need them, and would sell them to you and order new ones. I can wait. They’re trail spares. If so, send me a pm.

 

[yoda13]

You could also disconnect your batteries for a while and see if doing a hard reset, my words not something official, might erase any gremlins in your system.

 

[Mr._Bill]

You could also disconnect your batteries for a while and see if doing a hard reset, my words not something official, might erase any gremlins in your system.

Everything is computerized. Sometimes it just needs a reboot.

The head unit can take up to 24 hours to fully recover from the power loss.

 

[LostWoods]

Thank you. The can buss looks like it could be the culprit, although I wasnt able to find where to buy one.

Both batteries were replaced about a year ago. I know that would not rule it out, though. I will look at that as well.

Thank you

CAN bus isn't something you can buy, it's the network the truck uses and not an actual part. FCA never figured out how to make it work properly so it's sensitive as hell.

 

[Viper501]

My first instinct is a loose ground, or one that has gotten corroded. I’d check all of the grounds on both of the batteries (PIA) and on the body. The way that the batteries are wired together doubles the opportunity for a voltage inconsistency.

 

[kevman65]

Having just gone through this scenario, don't rule out broken wires anywhere on the JT.

My Codes centered around the driver side rear ABS wheel speed sensor. Got the part and went to change it out to find out the OTHER side of the MOLEX connector had been chewed in two by a critter.

If you have codes, see if most of them align with a specific part and start your search there.


*** I have CEL's for the following; Electronic Traction Control, ABS, Auto Start Stop, Service 4 Wheel Drive, Cruise Control, and I think one other tied into wheel speed sensor system.

 

[PuddleJumper]

If you find you actually need the abs module, even though it sounds like something else, I have one, maybe two. I don’t immediately need them, and would sell them to you and order new ones. I can wait. They’re trail spares. If so, send me a pm.

man i need to up my game. trail spare ABS modules?!

 

[yoda13]

I think this is the thing behind the glovebox people are talking about needing to replace…

 

[Doum]

I had the exact same issue with multiple error lights, speedo and rpm gauges, and inability to shift out of park. I ordered and replaced the cam bus (it’s located behind the glove box on the left side). Part was approximately $60.00. It’s been a month since I replaced it and not one error lights or check engine light. Youtube has numerous videos on swapping these out. Took about fifteen minutes and remember to disconnect the negative battery cables (both primary and aux cables from the primary battery’s negative post.

Saw a video online the guy put dieletric grease on all connector bits of the connector behind the glove box yes. instead of replacing it and it all came back normal

 

[WILDHOBO]

man i need to up my game. trail spare ABS modules?!

They’re cheap, light, and small. The trails I frequent would be tough to exit without lockers especially. Sway bar could be manually disconnected, so I didn’t list that. I have a friend that couldn’t finish cliffhanger in his well built JL on 37’s because of this. A spare could be swapped in within 10 minutes or less and all functionality is regained. I also have a z automotive locker sensor bypass as a spare.

 

[Parkerjw121209]

Thank you. The can buss looks like it could be the culprit, although I wasnt able to find where to buy one.

Both batteries were replaced about a year ago. I know that would not rule it out, though. I will look at that as well.

Thank you

MOPAR PART # 68321746AA If you google “MOPAR part 68321746AA” you will see numerous sites selling them. It’s a green plastics connector that the various control modules plug into.

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​ Thank you. The can buss looks like it could be the culprit, although I wasnt able to find where to buy one. Both batteries were replaced about a year ago. I know that would not rule it out, though. I will look at that as well. Thank you If you google “MOPAR part 68321746AA” you will see numerous sites selling them.

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