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Advice requested re regear for 315’s

Waltjason

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If you regear I would go to 4:56. This is what comes on a stock Extreme Recon running that size From the factory.
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Lunentucker

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I’m starting to wonder if there isn’t an absolute right or wrong way to go.
Accurate. There isn't.

Factors:
What kinds of driving are you doing? Freeways at 75? Two lanes? Rural? Urban?
How much trail use are you expecting to see?
What kinds of terrains?
Towing or heavy overlanding loads?

4.10's are the strongest gear ratio in the book, because the ring and pinion gears are the most closely matched in sizes, lessening the chances for failure.

As far as your shifting concerns go, all I can tell you is that my Mojave shifts buttery smooth, and if it were not for displaying the current gear as I drive along, I'd likely not even feel it most of the time, especially in the 6-8 range.

'21 Mojave (4.10 gear) / 2 inch lift / OEM rims / BFG 35's / rural mixed / 18.5 MPG

Jeep Gladiator Advice requested re regear for 315’s PXL_20230324_154637810_2


Jeep Gladiator Advice requested re regear for 315’s PXL_20240301_211932026~2
 
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Wheelin98TJ

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If you regear I would go to 4:56. This is what comes on a stock Extreme Recon running that size From the factory.
But 500 lbs more weight with the Gladiator vs a JLU.

If I ever regear for my 35s, I'm going with 4.88.
 

dayusmc

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My Mojave is currently on 35" with 4.10 gears. It does feel a little sluggish off the bottom. I bought the Banks Pedal Monster and it just came in. I am putting it in this weekend and will let you know how it feels. Maybe that might be an option for you if you stick with 3.73 gears
I am going to 37" so most likely I will be on 4.88 in the future.
 

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Accurate. There isn't.

Factors:
What kinds of driving are you doing? Freeways at 75? Two lanes? Rural? Urban?
How much trail use are you expecting to see?
What kinds of terrains?
Towing or heavy overlanding loads?

4.10's are the strongest gear ratio in the book, because the ring and pinion gears are the most closely matched in sizes, lessening the chances for failure.

As far as your shifting concerns go, all I can tell you is that my Mojave shifts buttery smooth, and if it were not for displaying the current gear as I drive along, I'd likely not even feel it most of the time, especially in the 6-8 range.

'21 Mojave (4.10 gear) / 2 inch lift / OEM rims / BFG 35's / rural mixed / 18.5 MPG

PXL_20230324_154637810_2.jpg


PXL_20240301_211932026~2.jpg
The Gladiator is going to be relegated to paved roads with only the occasional opportunity to get its feet dirty. I’ve got an ‘03 TJ for off-road duty and even it has spent most of its life doing city driving. Any good off-road opportunities require long road trips. Towing is really a non factor as my trailer is just an 8’er and max capacity is like 1200 lbs.

Right now I’m somewhere between embarrassed and pissed because I talked to people selling all these tuner boxes like PedalMonster, Pedal Commander, and I think there was another one, and even though I explained exactly what I was wanting to achieve and none of them mentioned anything about having to getting into the differential or actually having to upgrade any parts. Color me gullible. Or just flat out stupid. Lol

This whole journey has been pretty humbling. I’ve had that CJ since new but my passion the last 30+ years has been running Porsche and BMW and with those guys it’s always the driver that needs to be upgraded. There’s just not a lot you need to do or even can do with those, so I’ve been able to stay a bit ignorant about a lot of things. Who’d have thunk a block on wheels would expose how little I really know about all this. Thanks for the advice, appreciate it. Rusty
 

OHJeeper

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Ok, there’s a perfect example of something I’m completely confused about after perusing what felt like a million conversations I’ve seen here and elsewhere. I’ve even seen posts where people say an axle swap is necessary.

You may absolutely be right, but I’ve seen so many posts here and elsewhere where it seems equal number of people say physical gear changes are required and others say it’s overkill or completely unnecessary. I called the local off-road shop that’s done work on my previous Jeep and he said I should be good to go with the JScan.

I’m starting to wonder if there isn’t an absolute right or wrong way to go.
I think what @bleda2002 meant was a "re-gear" doesn't mean you just change a setting with your Tazer, which your first post kind of made it sound like you thought that.

A re-gear definitely requires a physical swap of the "bits" inside the differential on both the front and back axle.

When you say an axle swap is necessary - that could be true. Not every JT has the same axles - even a Dana 44 is not the same Dana 44 from model to model. Certain gears require a larger area inside the differential, so you may not be able to physically fit some gear sets into yours without some other modifications.

Now, as to whether or not you should re-gear - that's the subjective part and it's half religion, half science and half guessing ;)
 

Lunentucker

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The Gladiator is going to be relegated to paved roads with only the occasional opportunity to get its feet dirty. I’ve got an ‘03 TJ for off-road duty and even it has spent most of its life doing city driving. Any good off-road opportunities require long road trips. Towing is really a non factor as my trailer is just an 8’er and max capacity is like 1200 lbs.

Right now I’m somewhere between embarrassed and pissed because I talked to people selling all these tuner boxes like PedalMonster, Pedal Commander, and I think there was another one, and even though I explained exactly what I was wanting to achieve and none of them mentioned anything about having to getting into the differential or actually having to upgrade any parts. Color me gullible. Or just flat out stupid. Lol

This whole journey has been pretty humbling. I’ve had that CJ since new but my passion the last 30+ years has been running Porsche and BMW and with those guys it’s always the driver that needs to be upgraded. There’s just not a lot you need to do or even can do with those, so I’ve been able to stay a bit ignorant about a lot of things. Who’d have thunk a block on wheels would expose how little I really know about all this. Thanks for the advice, appreciate it. Rusty
I drive what I would term foothills terrain mostly here in Virginia. I am 50 miles from flat land to the east and 60 miles from mountains to the west, so "rolling hills" get used a lot around here.


I see more 7th and than 8th, and it'll go find 4th on a climb after crossing a river if it's needed.

I'd drive yours as is a little more before making any drastic decisions on regearing.

Those so-called tuners simply increase the percentage of throttle response to how much pedal you move. They really don't alter the actual tune at all.
So where on a stock pedal you may be inputting 20%, a Banks or Monster will simply lie to the electronics and give it 30% (my made up numbers).
 
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bleda2002

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The Gladiator is going to be relegated to paved roads with only the occasional opportunity to get its feet dirty. I’ve got an ‘03 TJ for off-road duty and even it has spent most of its life doing city driving. Any good off-road opportunities require long road trips. Towing is really a non factor as my trailer is just an 8’er and max capacity is like 1200 lbs.

Right now I’m somewhere between embarrassed and pissed because I talked to people selling all these tuner boxes like PedalMonster, Pedal Commander, and I think there was another one, and even though I explained exactly what I was wanting to achieve and none of them mentioned anything about having to getting into the differential or actually having to upgrade any parts. Color me gullible. Or just flat out stupid. Lol

This whole journey has been pretty humbling. I’ve had that CJ since new but my passion the last 30+ years has been running Porsche and BMW and with those guys it’s always the driver that needs to be upgraded. There’s just not a lot you need to do or even can do with those, so I’ve been able to stay a bit ignorant about a lot of things. Who’d have thunk a block on wheels would expose how little I really know about all this. Thanks for the advice, appreciate it. Rusty
Don't confuse a throttle remapper with something like a tazer or jscan. A pedal mapper just changes the amount of gas you are giving it when you hit the pedal, aka from the factory 10% pedal movement might actually only be 5% throttle, but with the box you get 10 or 15 or 20% throttle for that 10% pedal movement. This can make your truck feel peppier than stock with out any other changes but it's really just the same thing as if you had smashed the gas more.

Tazer or JScan is used to reprogram the computer to understand the mechanical changes you've made such as tire size change or regearing. The tazer has other features it can do as well but it's not a pedal remapper.
 

dayusmc

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The Banks Pedal Monster, like said above doesn't give you any more power. In simple terms, it changes where the power comes in compared to how far you press down on the gas pedal.
Basically I don't want to have to mash down my gas pedal to start moving, so I bought the Pedal Moster. I could achieve the same thing by pressing the gas pedal down further from the start.
 

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Russ2023

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My Mojave is currently on 35" with 4.10 gears. It does feel a little sluggish off the bottom. I bought the Banks Pedal Monster and it just came in. I am putting it in this weekend and will let you know how it feels. Maybe that might be an option for you if you stick with 3.73 gears
I am going to 37" so most likely I will be on 4.88 in the future.
I’ve bought the bits I need for JScan but would definitely like to hear about your experience with it.
 
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I think what @bleda2002 meant was a "re-gear" doesn't mean you just change a setting with your Tazer, which your first post kind of made it sound like you thought that.

A re-gear definitely requires a physical swap of the "bits" inside the differential on both the front and back axle.

When you say an axle swap is necessary - that could be true. Not every JT has the same axles - even a Dana 44 is not the same Dana 44 from model to model. Certain gears require a larger area inside the differential, so you may not be able to physically fit some gear sets into yours without some other modifications.

Now, as to whether or not you should re-gear - that's the subjective part and it's half religion, half science and half guessing ;)
Great info, I appreciate it!
 
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Russ2023

Russ2023

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Don't confuse a throttle remapper with something like a tazer or jscan. A pedal mapper just changes the amount of gas you are giving it when you hit the pedal, aka from the factory 10% pedal movement might actually only be 5% throttle, but with the box you get 10 or 15 or 20% throttle for that 10% pedal movement. This can make your truck feel peppier than stock with out any other changes but it's really just the same thing as if you had smashed the gas more.

Tazer or JScan is used to reprogram the computer to understand the mechanical changes you've made such as tire size change or regearing. The tazer has other features it can do as well but it's not a pedal remapper.
That makes perfect sense to me. I’ve had the truck for a year now and the only complaint really is that issue where it doesn’t seem to want to up shift when my butt (and ear) tell me it should. It’s been to the dealership twice about it. The SA will drive it, acknowledge what I’m explaining, but then the wrench turns it back in saying everything seems normal. So frustrating.
 

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That makes perfect sense to me. I’ve had the truck for a year now and the only complaint really is that issue where it doesn’t seem to want to up shift when my butt (and ear) tell me it should. It’s been to the dealership twice about it. The SA will drive it, acknowledge what I’m explaining, but then the wrench turns it back in saying everything seems normal. So frustrating.
The 3.6 is a high revving engine it's gonna want to shift later than what you're thinking it will because of that.
 

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I’m Ok with the way it drives in general, but the shifting between those gears I mentioned is a bit rough. Almost like it’s straining itself a bit before it shifts. But right now I’m leaning towards doing as you say and just recalibrating and drive it a while and then reevaluate. Thanks.
Have you addressed this with the dealership?

I bought the Banks Pedal Monster and it just came in. I am putting it in this weekend and will let you know how it feels. Maybe that might be an option for you if you stick with 3.73 gears
Mine has been causing misfires above 6k in fourth gear. Truck is in the shop for that.
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