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Anybody carry a compressor in their JT?

SwampNut

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In other words, that connector does not go straight to the battery.
Nearly all vehicles have the trailer charge line on at all times, and I'm 90% sure this is true on the Gladiator. Straight to the battery (via a fuse or breaker of course). If you leave your RV connected, it could drain the vehicle battery.
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JoseQ_80

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I checked with a multi meter and only got 12 (14) volts when the ignition was on. Pins are marked on the outside of the cover for easy identification.
 

Benbean66

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Got a large inverter, and might "rearrange" this compressor to fit inside the JT. It is absurdly quiet, and should fit my needs quite nicely.

Attach23003_20210707_165235.jpg
 

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Overland-2021

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Those aren't compression fittings, are they?
I watched a soft copper line explode in a shop once........I heard a sound and looked just in time to see it rip open........
and have seen the compression fittings blow out.
Under 100psi probably ok.
Ya they are compression fittings - never had one blow as you have.
Still I will plan on replacing with the same type as is coming off the pump
 

ShadowsPapa

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I "used" one to power a small 2000 lbs winch on my small cargo trailer for my 4 wheeler. Since my LJ only had a 7 pin trailer connection.
I wonder - will the circuit of the JT 7 position jack/connector be enough to power a small 2500 pound ATV winch?
All of the trailer and similar sites out there say that for a rolling load on xx incline, a winch like a 2500 pound winch will easily pull a 4,000 car up a roughly 10 percent incline.
The bed on my car hauler comes up at 8.5% so is even easier than their charts show.
Bottom line, you multiply the winch rating by some factor to see what it can pull up an incline of xx percent as far as a rolling load.
A 2500 pound ATV winch will pull a dead car (as long as the tires are ok and roll) up my trailer and not break a sweat.
The question - could I get the power from that trailer connector?
The winch itself has 10 gauge wires on it. The book with the winch says something like 100-250 amps and I'm thinking holy cow dung - that would turn those 10 gauge wires into dust in less than 5 seconds. That's can't be right! No 10 gauge wire will handle that much.
I'm thinking that 10 gauge wire, about 6' long, that the winch comes with would only handle about 40 amps at 6 feet.
 

SwampNut

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Full load amp draw is still over 100, but I have no idea how you'd calculate it for partial loads. You can overload a wire for a while, the issue is heat buildup. The winch probably has a lower duty cycle. You're looking at load spikes as it gets used, not a constant max, also.
 

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ShadowsPapa

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Full load amp draw is still over 100, but I have no idea how you'd calculate it for partial loads. You can overload a wire for a while, the issue is heat buildup. The winch probably has a lower duty cycle. You're looking at load spikes as it gets used, not a constant max, also.
Very low duty cycle - 15 seconds on, 14 minutes off.
Here's what etrailer and 2 other similar sites have to say - one I can't find again had a chart that pretty much echoed what etrailer said -

When you are pulling a load on wheels, like a car onto a trailer, then you will look at the rolling load capacity of a winch. The rolling load capacity is the amount of weight it can pull up an incline. You can calculate the rolling load capacity of the winch by multiplying the winch capacity by a factor listed for every 5 percent of incline. For example, using this winch to pull a vehicle up a 10 percent incline you will multiply the 3,000 lb. winch capacity by a factor of 5.02, this will give you a rolling load capacity of 15,060 lbs.

So a 2500 pound winch pulling a rolling load up a 10% incline comes out to 12,550 pounds. My trailer bed according to engineering, on the flat, is 8.5% so I'm not in the slightest bit concerned about the winch. It won't be at even 1/3 of that 12,550 pounds pulling a 3200 pound rolling car on the trailer.
I'm just trying to figure if I can power such a winch back there IF I ever had to pull one of my cars dead into the trailer.

If I fry the winch wires, so what - I'm more concerned about the truck's ability electrically to handle such a thing.
 

SwampNut

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It can for sure, until it can't. Seriously, I've blown the trailer charge fuse before just from having a very depleted battery on the trailer. Everything is designed to allow a slight overload for a short time. Breakers and fuses included, unless they are fast-blow. Like I can run a bead on my welder at max power on a household outlet for ten seconds, but around 15-20 the breaker goes. It's all about load over time.

I'm confident that Chrysler put enough thought behind it that the worst you will do is blow a fuse or pop a breaker (don't recall which one we have for that wire).
 

ShadowsPapa

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It can for sure, until it can't. Seriously, I've blown the trailer charge fuse before just from having a very depleted battery on the trailer. Everything is designed to allow a slight overload for a short time. Breakers and fuses included, unless they are fast-blow. Like I can run a bead on my welder at max power on a household outlet for ten seconds, but around 15-20 the breaker goes. It's all about load over time.

I'm confident that Chrysler put enough thought behind it that the worst you will do is blow a fuse or pop a breaker (don't recall which one we have for that wire).
Maybe until or unless I find otherwise, I just not try to power it that way.............. not enough solid info.
I think I read that is a 30 amp fuse.
I could actually turn my JT around, hook the trailer to the front and power it directly from the battery through a breaker. Just looking for an easier way - but it isn't so easy in the end if something breaks.
Thanks for the info you had anyway.
 

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I've used the power from my LJ 7 pin trailer hookup but it's wired direct with factory wire harness for a 2k winch not sure on JT one.
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