Anyone else running 37s no lift?

[Zachanadandy]

I think the gladiator could use all the help it can get in the breakover and departure angles but that's from 2+ decades of wheeling everything from TJs to XJs to WJs and wagoneers. The breakover and departure angles are bad even in 33s at stock height. The AEV 2" kit is dirt cheap and well worth the improvement in clearance and proper bumpstopping fur the 37s I paired it with. You retain all the goodness of the factory suspension and ride with almost no downside for $500. Can't go wrong.

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[PuddleJumper]

I think the gladiator could use all the help it can get in the breakover and departure angles but that's from 2+ decades of wheeling everything from TJs to XJs to WJs and wagoneers. The breakover and departure angles are bad even in 33s at stock height. The AEV 2" kit is dirt cheap and well worth the improvement in clearance and proper bumpstopping fur the 37s I paired it with. You retain all the goodness of the factory suspension and ride with almost no downside for $500. Can't go wrong.

I’ll have to get a 2in lift in the future. For my hemi swap. But the new engine weight will be too much for the stock springs so that rules out the oem shock and coils. I’ll be doing a mopar deisel 2in lift then pair with some nice and beefy Fox 2.5s or Bilstein B8 6120s idk which yet. I’m currently now running 3/4 day star all around with mopar 2in LCAs. Love how it drives. Don’t know if I wann lose the caster I gained doing this by changing out to 2in spacers. 6.2 degrees of caster make it street so well.

 

[SonoranMojave]

I have the exact same setup. I have been trying to find the right psi myself. I am trying 32 psi now but dont have many miles with that amount yet. I have seen anywhere between 26 and 35 psi.

Do you have any lift? I’m sitting on the 2” AEV spacer kit. Once I get the psi dialed in, the next thing is to figure out why it’s tracking to the right. It never ends lol.

 

[PuddleJumper]

Do you have any lift? I’m sitting on the 2” AEV spacer kit. Once I get the psi dialed in, the next thing is to figure out why it’s tracking to the right. It never ends lol.

Gotta get under there adjust your drag link out a bit. Or u might be ready for a longer aftermarket one. Depends on ur lift. Jeeps only have 2 points of adjustment for alignment unless u got aftermarket adjustable arms. Stock u only get toe and track. Toe is adjusted my the tire rod driver side. Track also driver side on the drag link. I stopped getting alignments down when I figured this out. These are simple adjustments that can be made in the garage with no rack. Just a tape measure and few test drives.

 

[Zachanadandy]

I’ll have to get a 2in lift in the future. For my hemi swap. But the new engine weight will be too much for the stock springs so that rules out the oem shock and coils. I’ll be doing a mopar deisel 2in lift then pair with some nice and beefy Fox 2.5s or Bilstein B8 6120s idk which yet. I’m currently now running 3/4 day star all around with mopar 2in LCAs. Love how it drives. Don’t know if I wann lose the caster I gained doing this by changing out to 2in spacers. 6.2 degrees of caster make it street so well.

I agree the stock coils will be too soft with the hemi, but there's no reason you couldn't keep the shocks. The 392 JL doesn't come with nearly the same quality shock and it seems to work great. Most 392 and diesel specific lifts come with regular 2.0 shocks. Run the metalcloak upper shock brackets and you could easily retain the stock shocks up front after the hemi swap. If I end up going down that road, I'd just swap out the coils up front to the metalcloak 2.5" diesel coils, lose the 2" coil spacer, and keep the rest of the AEV kit. Debating right now on if I want to add control arm drop brackets up front as I live the way they ride and handle in our JLUR.

 

[Phishs]

Do you have any lift? I’m sitting on the 2” AEV spacer kit. Once I get the psi dialed in, the next thing is to figure out why it’s tracking to the right. It never ends lol.

I do not have a lift but you’re right about it never ending. lol

 

[PuddleJumper]

I agree the stock coils will be too soft with the hemi, but there's no reason you couldn't keep the shocks. The 392 JL doesn't come with nearly the same quality shock and it seems to work great. Most 392 and diesel specific lifts come with regular 2.0 shocks. Run the metalcloak upper shock brackets and you could easily retain the stock shocks up front after the hemi swap. If I end up going down that road, I'd just swap out the coils up front to the metalcloak 2.5" diesel coils, lose the 2" coil spacer, and keep the rest of the AEV kit. Debating right now on if I want to add control arm drop brackets up front as I live the way they ride and handle in our JLUR.

Solid plan

 

[SonoranMojave]

Gotta get under there adjust your drag link out a bit. Or u might be ready for a longer aftermarket one. Depends on ur lift. Jeeps only have 2 points of adjustment for alignment unless u got aftermarket adjustable arms. Stock u only get toe and track. Toe is adjusted my the tire rod driver side. Track also driver side on the drag link. I stopped getting alignments down when I figured this out. These are simple adjustments that can be made in the garage with no rack. Just a tape measure and few test drives.

I’ve already adjusted the drag link which helped center the steering wheel, but it still wants to cant right without any driver input.

I’ve also got the geo brackets installed, my caster is right at 7. It doesn’t really bother me that much and it doesn’t seem too severe but it’s definitely there. Just worried about any extra tire wear because they are brand new.

 

[PuddleJumper]

I’ve already adjusted the drag link which helped center the steering wheel, but it still wants to cant right without any driver input.

I’ve also got the geo brackets installed, my caster is right at 7. It doesn’t really bother me that much and it doesn’t seem too severe but it’s definitely there. Just worried about any extra tire wear because they are brand new.

How heavily are your roads graded? A lot of 2 lanes have quite the grade for runoff. And solid axle will fall into that grade regardless of how good your alignment is.

 

[SonoranMojave]

How heavily are your roads graded? A lot of 2 lanes have quite the grade for runoff. And solid axle will fall into that grade regardless of how good your alignment is.

Yeah a lot of them have some obvious grade, but even on pretty neutral ones it still seems to like the right side.

I still need to repin the ABS sensor on the driver side that got snapped during the lift install. I want to do that before I start adjusting a bunch of stuff to see if it makes any impact.

 

[PuddleJumper]

Yeah a lot of them have some obvious grade, but even on pretty neutral ones it still seems to like the right side.

I still need to repin the ABS sensor on the driver side that got snapped during the lift install. I want to do that before I start adjusting a bunch of stuff to see if it makes any impact.

When you did your lift. Did u loosen the LCAs?

 

[SonoranMojave]

When you did your lift. Did u loosen the LCAs?

I assume so. I didn’t actually do it myself, the guy who rebuilt my shocks did because he did it for real cheap. Maybe that was a mistake lol.

 

[PuddleJumper]

I assume so. I didn’t actually do it myself, the guy who rebuilt my shocks did because he did it for real cheap. Maybe that was a mistake lol.

So the stock LCAs aren’t adjustable. But they need to be tightened with truck on the ground on its wheel. Plus there’s enough slack in the bolts that they can be 1/8 or more off from each other. Ie you can be pushing one side further forward than the other. I had to redo mine cus the passenger side was too forward on the frame side. And it pulled left no matter what. I got heavy rachet straps and pulled the axle as tight as possible against both arms and then retightened them. Drives straight now. If you have adjustable LCAs u can just throw it on an alignment rack and adjust the arms until caster is perfectly equal on both sides. Mine had half a degree between both, after redoing it it’s .04 off.

 

[SonoranMojave]

So the stock LCAs aren’t adjustable. But they need to be tightened with truck on the ground on its wheel. Plus there’s enough slack in the bolts that they can be 1/8 or more off from each other. Ie you can be pushing one side further forward than the other. I had to redo mine cus the passenger side was too forward on the frame side. And it pulled left no matter what. I got heavy rachet straps and pulled the axle as tight as possible against both arms and then retightened them. Drives straight now. If you have adjustable LCAs u can just throw it on an alignment rack and adjust the arms until caster is perfectly equal on both sides. Mine had half a degree between both, after redoing it it’s .04 off.

My caster measures the same on both sides

 

[PuddleJumper]

My caster measures the same on both sides

That’s confounding.

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