Anyone use 0w30 or 5w30

[Wheelin98TJ]

I bought my Gladiator with 37,000 miles on it. So I think it is out of warranty.
I had an issue with my wife's BMW using the 5w20 oil that it called for. It was burning oil. I went to 5w30 and it runs great on it.
I didn't think there would be any issue going to 5w30 or 0w30 in the Jeep. I wouldn't put 10w30 in it or anything thicker than 5w30 in it just for personal preference. I know other people do, and I think that is fine.
I don't sweat the oil brand thing, everyone has their preference. Just like I married a blond and my best friend married a brunette, just personal preference- and I always respect everyone's personal preference...

You should have 5 years/60k miles on your powertrain warranty.

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[Hootbro]

I question how good 0w20 is here at the Jersey shore in traffic...

One of the main proponents of the 20 grade spec when it came on the scene 20+ years ago, is that it actually stays in grade and does not shear out of grade. XW-30 grades at that time were actually prone to shear down after a couple thousand miles and were in essence a "heavy" 20 grade oil when they sheared.

Modern and current API SP spec XW-30 oils are less prone for this shearing with it pretty much non existent in the full synthetics.

An 0W-20 will suffice for the driving you stated. There is tendency for going to a higher grade under the assumption it gets you better margins but that is not always the case.

There really is no bad modern oil out there when current API spec, manufacturers spec and recommended grade is followed.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

One of the main proponents of the 20 grade spec when it came on the scene 20+ years ago, is that it actually stays in grade and does not shear out of grade. XW-30 grades at that time were actually prone to shear down after a couple thousand miles and were in essence a "heavy" 20 grade oil when they sheared.

Modern and current API SP spec XW-30 oils are less prone for this shearing with it pretty much non existent in the full synthetics.

An 0W-20 will suffice for the driving you stated. There is tendency for going to a higher grade under the assumption it gets you better margins but that is not always the case.

There really is no bad modern oil out there when current API spec, manufacturers spec and recommended grade is followed.

Thank you - you beat me to it again. There's also enough "over-lap" as I've posted elsewhere, that it really doesn't make much difference these days. Likely the reason the "hot weather use xxxx" disappeared.
I've got an article somewhere that explains the current methodology and shows the charts but it's not going to matter LOL.
Another factor - oil shearing causes heat. Heavier oil is fine for worn out engines, but when used in engines with little wear, it actually will run hotter for this reason, and the fact that the slower flow allows for less cooling.
They've got this down to an art, beyond the science.
Again we can look at the hundreds of thousands of Jeeps out there that routinely go back to dealers or oil change joints and get the recommended oils put in year after year. Yeah, that's anecdotal, but sometimes observation is part of the puzzle.

I go back to - no one has shown a reason TO deviate from those specs. Not a supportable or provable reason.

These aren't 1960s oils. Not unless you shop eBay for your oil.............

 

[dayusmc]

I am just going to order the same oil I have in 0w20. If it is good for every market, I am sure it can handle the stop and go heat of the Jersey Shore traffic..

I can use these cases for other stuff I have around like generators, trash pumps, etc... So it won't go to waste.

Again I want to thank everyone for their valuable imput and staying on topic.

 

[WILDHOBO]

Wondering if anyone uses 0w30 or 5w30 fully synthetic oil in there 3.6 gas jeeps. Or is everyone using 0w20.

I’ve only used Pennzoil platinum full synthetic 0w20. It’s hard to find, so I usually buy two or three to guarantee on time oil changes.

 

[mrmo]

I had an oil distributor send me 0w40 Pennzoil Euro Platinum vrs the 5w40 I ordered for my baby diesel. I wanted to return it, but they said to keep it and sent out the requested oil. I will use two quarts of it every oil change along with the 5w40 until its gone. There will be no issues.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I had an oil distributor send me 0w40 Pennzoil Euro Platinum vrs the 5w40 I ordered for my baby diesel. I wanted to return it, but they said to keep it and sent out the requested oil. I will use two quarts of it every oil change along with the 5w40 until its gone. There will be no issues.

Your differences are minimal at best. 0w vs 5w? Both are 40 at the top end. Meh, no trouble.

Mixing different brands or formulations can result in weird stuff, literally reducing the oil's ability to protect ( chemistry incompatibilities ). That can lead to problems.

 

[ChrisNLA]

I'm not a scientist. They said pour 0W-20 in it so I'm pouring a high quality 0W-20 in it

 

[RdFx21]

0w-40 runs well in the 3.6 also depending on your use case. I have not seen oil temps much above 220 F even on extended trips or slow-moving traffic and no issues on cold starts in freezing temps. I have 0w-30 planned for my next oil change.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

0w-40 runs well in the 3.6 also depending on your use case. I have not seen oil temps much above 220 F even on extended trips or slow-moving traffic and no issues on cold starts in freezing temps. I have 0w-30 planned for my next oil change.

Of course it won't matter in cold temps - that's the 0w part of it, not the 40.
Why would oil temps be high in slow moving traffic or an extended trip?
High oil temps result from loading the engine, hard use and higher RPM.
So your case of "extended trips or slow-moving traffic" should actually see lower oil temps.
I'd hope to not see 220 in slow traffic or an ordinary highway drive.
You're pushing it on that weight with the cam phasers and lash adjusters, though.

I could never recommend that much of a change on these engines.

But then most people know more than engineers or trained techs LOL.
Just ask the internet.

 

[dayusmc]

With the 5w30 I am running between 190 and 197, not sure if that is high or not.
The 0w20 is on order...

 

[IamPro2A]

I'm not a scientist. They said pour 0W-20 in it so I'm pouring a high quality 0W-20 in it

I figure they spent a lot of money paying people to study what oil was best, so I try to stick with it, at least in stock engines. That said, it still irks me a bit that I have two 3.6L Jeeps a few years apart in age, and one takes 6qts of 5W-20 and the other one takes 5qts of 0W-20.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I figure they spent a lot of money paying people to study what oil was best, so I try to stick with it, at least in stock engines. That said, it still irks me a bit that I have two 3.6L Jeeps a few years apart in age, and one takes 6qts of 5W-20 and the other one takes 5qts of 0W-20.

I'm not sure why they ever went to 6 quarts. Some really tough, fast engines have used 5 quarts.

As far as the two "3.6's" - they may both be 3.6 liters but they are very different engines in so many ways.......
Crank journals are smaller diameter and more narrow, bearings are different materials, cams, followers, lash adjusters, valve stems and guides, timing chains are very different as are the timing sprockets, cam phasers, and the list goes on, as far as reasons the oil needs are different.
The training/intro materials from 2015 say this about the oil - "is required for the VVT and VVL systems."

 

[ShadowsPapa]

With the 5w30 I am running between 190 and 197, not sure if that is high or not.
The 0w20 is on order...

No, not high...........

 

[IamPro2A]

I'm not sure why they ever went to 6 quarts. Some really tough, fast engines have used 5 quarts.

As far as the two "3.6's" - they may both be 3.6 liters but they are very different engines in so many ways.......
Crank journals are smaller diameter and more narrow, bearings are different materials, cams, followers, lash adjusters, valve stems and guides, timing chains are very different as are the timing sprockets, cam phasers, and the list goes on, as far as reasons the oil needs are different.
The training/intro materials from 2015 say this about the oil - "is required for the VVT and VVL systems."

I knew the top end was different, and obviously the oil pan/pickup, and I understand the impact oil viscosity has on hydraulic valvetrains, so I assumed that was the issue. Didn't realize the short block changed too. Interesting.

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