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ArchOil Friction Modifier for 3.6?

ColaJoe

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Has anyone used ArchOil? I've used it in two RAM 1500 HEMI engines as well as my boat engine. Stuff is awesome for making making the engine run smoother, quieter, and more fuel efficient. You can literally have the engine running while adding it and begin to hear the difference within minutes. I just want to see if anyone has tried it in the 3.6L so far. I'll probably use it even if nobody else has. I've had great luck with it. Friend of mine turned me on to it years ago.
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Puch

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Has anyone used ArchOil? I've used it in two RAM 1500 HEMI engines as well as my boat engine. Stuff is awesome for making making the engine run smoother, quieter, and more fuel efficient. You can literally have the engine running while adding it and begin to hear the difference within minutes. I just want to see if anyone has tried it in the 3.6L so far. I'll probably use it even if nobody else has. I've had great luck with it. Friend of mine turned me on to it years ago.
I used it for one oil change cycle. About 5k miles. Yes, it does exactly what you said. Also used it in my daily driver and my son’s Toyota. All had the same results.
There was one thing I found strange.
When I looked at the oil filter after 5k miles, it had this weird look and texture to it. The filter was dark in color almost a burnt dark brown and had a crunchy feeling to it. Kind of like someone tossed it in a fire for a minute? The oil looked fine. Just the filter was odd. My daily driver has a sealed filter so I couldn’t examine that one (wasn’t going to try cutting it open) The Toyota seemed to be fine but the oil was changed at 3k. 2k less than the JT. I changed my own oil every time. I’ve never seen anything like that. Never had it happen again.
I know, should have sent in a sample for testing.
It definitely seems to do what you said, but that filter freaked me out so I stopped using it.
 

Escape.idiocracy

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I can’t speak to the additive that you are talking about directly- but I did use Hotshots stiction eliminator and now FR3… for snake oil it sure does make things quiet down significantly….
 

Hootbro

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Oil additives are usually a hot topic. I generally stay away from them but would be a hypocrite to say I have never used them.

I am open to learning something new if the data is there.
 

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ShadowsPapa

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The problem is - you won't get data necessarily because no one can really prove anything one way or another unless there's a failure with additive. But then - was it the additive or not?
You'll get a lot of "my engine hasn't failed" or "it works" but it will be anecdotal and nothing provable.
It's a lot like the valley oil line people added to AMC V8s - "never had a failure after I added that line". What about the ones that never failed without the line?

People feel good using these things, but does it REALLY do anything?
Is there a risk it will interfere with the oil's chemistry blended into the oil? Will it cause viscosity issues with the oil?

Can't say "no, don't do it!" but then so far no one can prove anything either direction.
There's only one sure thing I see when this sort of thing comes up - those who use any such product will swear by it and as far as they'll be concerned, they have enough proof.
 

ShadowsPapa

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. You can literally have the engine running while adding it and begin to hear the difference within minutes.
Comparable experience - I swapped from old-school type oil to a modern bio-syn oil in my Javelin's 360.
It's got dual quads and I had things adjusted just about right. Idle was decent, right where I wanted it in gear.
I decided to try a different type of oil in it. The viscosity was similar - slightly different but then multi-viscosity oils actually can overlap in the real viscosity measurements. There's never a strong demark point. It's like overlapping circles.
Bottom line, when all was said and done, the idle was so much higher I had to actually redo the carburetor mixtures and lower the idle RPM by over 100.
Wow, just going to a better oil.
 

Maximus Gladius

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My thought to oil additives is do some research first. Not reviews like how someone feels about it but research what’s in it. For me, if I really wanted to put this awesome looking bottle of stuff in my engine or diffs or transmission, first pour off a couple ounces of it into a bottle or send in the whole bottle in for analysis. I think it’s prudent to know what the lubricant(s) is or are.

Lubricants are either “solids” or “chemical” so it’s a good idea to know what they are. Some solids are zinc, plastics, Teflon, lead etc. and which are packaged in massive amounts.

Solids like these also react differently in heat and cold and will typically “pack in” the tight spaces and oil channels and solidify when cold. Don’t get sucked into the marketing, find out what’s in it and what does the lubricant do in heat and cold. Then decide if this is a good thing to use or not.
 
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ColaJoe

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Y'all took this to a whole 'nother level.

Nerds! ?
 

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I'd use oil additives if i had to use cheap oil. If you can get a quality oil they generally come with all the additives and detergents already. A lot of manufactures even label specific some of their premium lines as having a greater zinc, Teflon, and other additive amounts. just my two cents. I honestly think fuel additives are actually doing more noticeable work than most. In the case of preventing knock. I always kept octane booster in my BMWs in case i couldn't get 91 octane or better gas in some areas. I also had a chevy 3500 van that had a misfire than couldn't be kicked unless i ran lucas oil additive in the tank every fill up. spark plugs, coil packs, injectors, literally everything checked out. still misfired unless u ran lucas. weird but works.
 

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OP, if this is the ingredient list (or in part) to the additive you put in your engine, I’d say the reason your engine went more quiet was for all the wax you poured in there. Though the immediate noticeable results in less noise is impressive, the long run of this stuff is concerning.

Take for example just choosing a super great oil like Mobil 1 (I’m not endorsing this, it’s just an example I’m running with) Mobil 1 oil is known to start with a pure synthetic base oil to which they add their additive packages to. You can call up a rep at Mobil to ask about their base oil and they will confirm just how pure it is. Stage 4 or type 4. When going from a stage 3 or type 3 (like AMSOIL), going to stage 4 is in the last filtration which removes WAX from it. There is further filtration from there but not important for our applications.

So if you pride yourself in using a stage 4 oil, that is stripped of wax, using this additive (I haven’t confirmed it’s heavy paraffin properties in an analysis) it doesn’t make sense to dump gross amounts of wax back in. You might ask, “what’s wrong with wax”? Well I’m no expert but wax might be slippery and liquid when hot but when cold it’s pretty stiff, like the candle on the dinner table for that hot date.

Read this to get a good indication of what paraffin does in oil additives.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/chlorinated-paraffin-as-an-oil-additive.72918/
 
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ColaJoe

ColaJoe

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Soooooo..... Been using it for years with great results so far. I asked if anyone had used it in their 3.6L and got a bunch of reasons why I shouldn't use it. ? Okee dokee.
 

Hootbro

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Soooooo..... Been using it for years with great results so far. I asked if anyone had used it in their 3.6L and got a bunch of reasons why I shouldn't use it. ? Okee dokee.
To be fair, 99% of people here probably never heard of the product before you mentioned it. As to keeping a subject in a narrow swim lane around here, good luck with that. You kind of had to known oil additives are a controversial subject and would get the peanut gallery comments.

Your thread is about as typical as any other oil related thread around here.

Sounds like you are happy with it and have experience with the product.
 

ColoradoDennis

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