Aux battery delete now issues

[Hootbro]

Three years ago I deleted the aux and simply ran the aux cables to the main batt terminals. Been working like a champ ever since. I doubt that is the problem. Though I did attach the aux negative to the main rather than tape it off as this person did.

Could have worded it better I guess but I was more worried about something ground or touching that may have toasted something like the fuse array.

More than one way to skin a cat when it comes to the Aux Battery disable/delete. Some are just cleaner than others IMHO.

Sponsored

 

[Andy29847]

You did what? There are 2 cables on the positive of the aux battery. Note that the positive of the main and the positives on the aux do not got to the same post on the fuse buss.

 

[Andy29847]

3.6L ESS Aux Battery Bypass | Jeep Wrangler Forums (JL / JLU) -- Rubicon, 4xe, 392, Sahara, Sport - JLwranglerforums.com

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I never understood that fuse bit. Why?
They make things so complicated.

 

[Hootbro]

I never understood that fuse bit. Why?
They make things so complicated.

I would cut the guy some slack. Probably one of the first posts on it back in 2018 after the JL launch and it was pretty much BETA testing back then figuring things out.

Most to include me would evolve from using a fused jumper from N1 to N2 to a non fused jumper from N1 to N3.

He still has the good idea of having a fused jumper with eyelets and couple wing nuts in a trail bag in case one of the fuse array legs blows as a temp patch until a new fuse array can be sourced and installed.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I would cut the guy some slack. Probably one of the first posts on it back in 2018 after the JL launch and it was pretty much BETA testing back then figuring things out.

Most to include me would evolve from using a fused jumper from N1 to N2 to a non fused jumper from N1 to N3.

He still has the good idea of having a fused jumper with eyelets and couple wing nuts in a trail bag in case one of the fuse array legs blows as a temp patch until a new fuse array can be sourced and installed.

I was just wondering why the complexity, not a smackdown. Nothing taken off of that has a fuse, and N1 has no fuse going to it.

I carry a large gator clip. It will connect two adjacent posts. (and can be handy for some other things).
I already have wingnuts on a couple of those posts as that's where I have connected the power steps and such. I don't like a lot of wire going to the positive battery post and since those are hot all the time, they are perfect posts for small amperage accessories (won't use the one for the EHPS or the fan)

I also tend to not deal much with the Wrangler side - very very different attitude, and there's still a whole lot of believe that the aux battery ALWAYS, and I mean ALWAYS goes bad, and it ALWAYS takes out the main, and the main never ever goes bad first, it can't possibly, among some other weird beliefs there that just won't die. It's a different bunch. I avoided doing much discussion on the Sunrider there because of some of the crap they are hooked on - and even when presented with quotes and pictures from Bestop - they just can't believe it.

 

[Hootbro]

I was just wondering why the complexity, not a smackdown. Nothing taken off of that has a fuse, and N1 has no fuse going to it.

I carry a large gator clip. It will connect two adjacent posts. (and can be handy for some other things).
I already have wingnuts on a couple of those posts as that's where I have connected the power steps and such. I don't like a lot of wire going to the positive battery post and since those are hot all the time, they are perfect posts for small amperage accessories (won't use the one for the EHPS or the fan)

I also tend to not deal much with the Wrangler side - very very different attitude, and there's still a whole lot of believe that the aux battery ALWAYS, and I mean ALWAYS goes bad, and it ALWAYS takes out the main, and the main never ever goes bad first, it can't possibly, among some other weird beliefs there that just won't die. It's a different bunch. I avoided doing much discussion on the Sunrider there because of some of the crap they are hooked on - and even when presented with quotes and pictures from Bestop - they just can't believe it.

Not everybody is you.

 

[Maximus Gladius]

I was just wondering why the complexity, not a smackdown. Nothing taken off of that has a fuse, and N1 has no fuse going to it.

I carry a large gator clip. It will connect two adjacent posts. (and can be handy for some other things).
I already have wingnuts on a couple of those posts as that's where I have connected the power steps and such. I don't like a lot of wire going to the positive battery post and since those are hot all the time, they are perfect posts for small amperage accessories (won't use the one for the EHPS or the fan)

I also tend to not deal much with the Wrangler side - very very different attitude, and there's still a whole lot of believe that the aux battery ALWAYS, and I mean ALWAYS goes bad, and it ALWAYS takes out the main, and the main never ever goes bad first, it can't possibly, among some other weird beliefs there that just won't die. It's a different bunch. I avoided doing much discussion on the Sunrider there because of some of the crap they are hooked on - and even when presented with quotes and pictures from Bestop - they just can't believe it.

When I encountered my “battery” problem, all I had was a high voltage reading off the alternator all the time. I was sure it was that damn “aux killing the main”. I was proved wrong.

My 2 year old Optima main was going south taking out the aux. Taking out the aux, leaving its entrails in place taped up and zip tied, main battery replaced, fixed it.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Not everybody is you.

Didn't say they were - but once you leave the maintained roads, you should know your vehicle as much as is possible and be prepared for pretty much anything. What I see out there is rather scary.

You don't have to be a tech, but you need to know your horse before putting a saddle on it.

 

[Hootbro]

Didn't say they were - but once you leave the maintained roads, you should know your vehicle as much as is possible and be prepared for pretty much anything. What I see out there is rather scary.

You don't have to be a tech, but you need to know your horse before putting a saddle on it.

If you want to pick the fly shit out of the pepper and critique a 7 year old thread with 7 years of hindsight, have at it.

Like I said, I would cut the guy some slack. It was new territory. Not everybody is infallible out the gate like you are.

If it grinds your gears that much, go over there posting and "correct" him.

 

[Maximus Gladius]

How bout those Blue Jays?!

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Gee, I'm not the one who is bothered so much by it - but someone else is bugged that I questioned 'why a fuse'...............
That was it, and I was dropping it. I only asked, more of "musing", wondering. That was it. I wasn't ripping anyone and had left it just at that.
But i then I got smacked as if I was picking on the guy. I asked a question.
Just trying to bring tings current, to what we know for a fact, and know NOW. So much for asking a simple question.


Lurkers - suggestions for those wanting to be safe off the beaten path - carry a simple piece of wire with ends that will work on those high current fuse studs. It's simple, easy. For that matter, carry anything that can make a connection between two points. Heavier is better because it makes it more universal for other things.
I carry longer jumper wires "just in case" as I can hot wire alternators or certain other things with a simple jumper.
If your aux goes bad or something else that you can field fix - jumper wires are a friend.
I have jumper wires with clips on the ends. Clip, clip, done. Or a single clip to connect two adjacent studs.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

How bout those Blue Jays?!

Damn, man, my home town team!!

 

[Andy29847]

I never understood that fuse bit. Why?
They make things so complicated.

just looking at the diagram, and not yet doing any research, it appears that you are feeding power from N3 to N1. I’ll have to look it up to see how N1 is otherwise fused.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

just looking at the diagram, and not yet doing any research, it appears that you are feeding power from N3 to N1. I’ll have to look it up to see how N1 is otherwise fused.

If you find a fuse between the auxiliary battery positive and N1, let us know. I've not seen one in the schematics (from FCA) but then, I've not looked at every single line in those, either. It appears to be direct - but, the schematics would show if there's a fuse somewhere.
(OR, a fusible link which was very common in the past)

Sponsored