Auxiliary LED Reverse Lights (Integrated Rear Bumper)

[Harold0819]

I ran mine through that hole in the tail light opening you show in the first pic. Where you see the wire in the last pic. It isn't coming through that hole. Just tucked a loop of it into the hole to hold it there to show how short it was. Couldn't hold both ends and take pic.
My lights are up and running. Ended up using the T-connectors. Just disappointed. Did want to tap into my factory wires like that. Not the end of the world. But still a manufacturer fail.

Why is that one wire going through a hole - left part of top pic? Mine didn't go through any lined hole like that.
My guess is a routing problem.

Behind left side tail light - exit the highest hole -

Arrow points to that hole, then down and immediately head to the right of the truck, do not pass through any other holes, straight over to the right -

This is the same wire still heading to the right side, still has not pass through any holes or panels, it's made no turns not even mild jogs -

It still has not passed through any holes at all, still going straight. And the pig tail from the right light goes STRAIGHT, it does not jog through ANY panel at all, it passes through nothing, no holes,
Your one pic appears to show the wire going through a hole with a plastic grommet. Don't pass through any panel or hole at all. Once the long lead exits the left tail light it home-runs to the right almost a perfectly straight path you could use a straight edge on. And the one from the light - do not run it through any holes at all, none, not through any grommets, etc.

I question this - it appears you are passing through a panel, through a hole with a plastic grommet........... I did not. If routed like I did, you should be only 1 to 2" short tops.

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[ShadowsPapa]

I HATE tapping into SEALED factory wiring. I've done so many wiring jobs over the decades, and repaired so many rotted wires because someone used a tap or a scotchlock or similar - ugh. And when I bought a camper when I had my F250 I left the truck with the outfit to set up the WDH and add the trailer brake controller (state fair special - big bucks off the camper - and they included a TV, DVD player, brake controller, installation and WDH no extra charge)
I was so pissed I wanted to smack someone with a 2x4 when I saw those damned scotch locks hacked into the factory sealed tail light wires. The stupid thing is that the Ford was so popular back then and so many years they used the identical style and wiring - the adapters were a dime a dozen everywhere. They didn't have to tap into anything. For 10 bucks they could simply PLUG IT IT.
And I came home and ripped out their taps, used self-sealing heat shrink and properly soldered things into place. I was not happy.

With my JT, There was just no way I was going to tap into any factory wiring on a truck less than 2 years old. If they didn't offer that harness it would have been a deal breaker for me.

 

[mdyucca]

Well I received mine right before the holiday weekend. I was away with my wife and finally got the chance to install them. I have to say after reading what others have said I was not too excited as I was not getting a warm fuzzy feeling that these were what they were sold to be.
Have to say I'm glad I didn't get too excited and I'm not one to blast a company publicly but these are a major fail. They are definitely the first and last item I'll ever buy from Oracle. I've had jeeps for years and always modified the hell out of them. But I personally am tired of companies selling a PNP item for a specific vehicle and not having it fit. There is NO excuse other than someone is sleeping in the QC department. I don't have my lights lit yet, from what I've seen with others they look good but I'm not even there yet. The PNP harness is a joke. Who the hell cuts the wires so close that they end up short? Mine are a good 10-12" short of reaching the passenger side, even when routed as 'directed'. Which isn't even as directed as it says nothing from the manufacturer as to where to run them. I'm going to end up having to use the T-connectors to run mine. If I had know it was junk and useless I never would of BOUGHT the harness. The harness also has a hard time plugging into my factory taillight. A hair to long or tight, don't know, but the amount of force I had to use to get it to clip was way excessive.
I've seen others complain about the fit. mine seem to fit. not perfectly square and lined up in the opening but close. Sorry to vent but very frustrated and tired of manufacturers putting out questionable products. None of them think of how valuable our time is so when there shortcomings effect that then it is beyond frustrating. What should of been an easy PNP modification is now going to be another item you buy and make it work on your vehicle. Very disappointed.

Why is that one wire going through a hole - left part of top pic? Mine didn't go through any lined hole like that.
My guess is a routing problem.

Behind left side tail light - exit the highest hole -

Arrow points to that hole, then down and immediately head to the right of the truck, do not pass through any other holes, straight over to the right -

This is the same wire still heading to the right side, still has not pass through any holes or panels, it's made no turns not even mild jogs -

It still has not passed through any holes at all, still going straight. And the pig tail from the right light goes STRAIGHT, it does not jog through ANY panel at all, it passes through nothing, no holes,
Your one pic appears to show the wire going through a hole with a plastic grommet. Don't pass through any panel or hole at all. Once the long lead exits the left tail light it home-runs to the right almost a perfectly straight path you could use a straight edge on. And the one from the light - do not run it through any holes at all, none, not through any grommets, etc.

I question this - it appears you are passing through a panel, through a hole with a plastic grommet........... I did not. If routed like I did, you should be only 1 to 2" short tops.

Your right Oracle did not gain customer satisfaction with the release of the back up lights. With my install of the back up lights I was able to get the passenger side connected when I removed the harness body clip behind the left driver side tail light. However, the wire was so tight that I was concerned with it being cut where it runs through the hole in the bed sheet metal. So much so that I disconnected the tight wire (passenger side). Although Oracle product development missed it with the tail lights i still feel they generally make a good product.

I have contacted Oracle with my concerns and they are sending out an extension for the passenger side wire. I do share your disappointment Considering how long we had to wait for this product. Oracle would have been better served to spend another week in QC and to have shipped a product that is up to standards we expect from Oracle.

With all this said I do like the product and will appreciate the back up lights once I recieve the wire extension. Take a look!

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Hopefully wiring harness version 1.2 will have longer right side wire on the plug n play harness
and
version 1.4 of the lights themselves will see the pigtail insulation enter the light assembly (through the grommet) and a stress relief on said insulation inside the housing. This way there will be no stress on those fine 22 gauge or whatever they are wires going in through those small grommet holes - there's a spot for them to be exposed to pulling and stress where they enter that grommet.
I would change just that about the lights - the sleeve go through the grommet - stress relief on said sleeve/insulation inside the housing, no way for those fine wires to be pulled at and break from the board inside.

Those, although they will require revision changes in the design papers, things submitted to manufacturing, spec'ing a different grommet, and an added stress relief clip for the inside, slightly longer sleeve or outer insulation, won't take much else.

To clarify -

A Change grommet to a single hole
B Extend this sleeve in through the grommet pointed out in A. Put aclip or clamp on the wire sleeve inside the grommet at C to prevent wires from being pulled loose by snow and ice like we get here in Iowa - (pic below)
C do not leave these fine wires exposed as what is sure to be a flex point. There will be stress here over the long run unless the cable pointed to in B was somehow secured to the light. Otherwise it's likely to have just enough hanging to allow vibration directly impacting the two wires at C

This is after I knocked big chunks of snow pack off the splash guards and the bumper itself - wires in the bumper will be prone to having ice and snow hanging from them - and those tiny wires are not likely to survive - they'll pull out or break or the joint at the PC board inside will be stressed. There isn't enough wire to attach the wires up against anything to prevent damage.
There were huge pieces of snow pack on the running boards, splash guards, bottom of the rear bumper and other places. Wires must be secured against things, and have stress relief points.

 

[MR_FUSION]

Hi @JP_Oracle just PM'd you the pics of the factory connectors.

Issued resolved with the help of @JP_Oracle . PNP connector had 2 pins cross connected. So popped the PNP connector housing and fixed the connection. All set now

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Issued resolved with the help of @JP_Oracle . PNP connector had 2 pins cross connected. So popped the PNP connector housing and fixed the connection. All set now

Like I used to tell software vendors when I worked IT security - it's easy to put up with small mistakes or issues when the support is #1 and they jump on things and fix it - but if support is less than great, a small issue becomes huge.
Since nothing is ever perfect then support becomes the deciding factor a lot of times.

 

[mdyucca]

Hopefully wiring harness version 1.2 will have longer right side wire on the plug n play harness
and
version 1.4 of the lights themselves will see the pigtail insulation enter the light assembly (through the grommet) and a stress relief on said insulation inside the housing. This way there will be no stress on those fine 22 gauge or whatever they are wires going in through those small grommet holes - there's a spot for them to be exposed to pulling and stress where they enter that grommet.
I would change just that about the lights - the sleeve go through the grommet - stress relief on said sleeve/insulation inside the housing, no way for those fine wires to be pulled at and break from the board inside.

Those, although they will require revision changes in the design papers, things submitted to manufacturing, spec'ing a different grommet, and an added stress relief clip for the inside, slightly longer sleeve or outer insulation, won't take much else.

To clarify -

A Change grommet to a single hole
B Extend this sleeve in through the grommet pointed out in A. Put aclip or clamp on the wire sleeve inside the grommet at C to prevent wires from being pulled loose by snow and ice like we get here in Iowa - (pic below)
C do not leave these fine wires exposed as what is sure to be a flex point. There will be stress here over the long run unless the cable pointed to in B was somehow secured to the light. Otherwise it's likely to have just enough hanging to allow vibration directly impacting the two wires at C

This is after I knocked big chunks of snow pack off the splash guards and the bumper itself - wires in the bumper will be prone to having ice and snow hanging from them - and those tiny wires are not likely to survive - they'll pull out or break or the joint at the PC board inside will be stressed. There isn't enough wire to attach the wires up against anything to prevent damage.
There were huge pieces of snow pack on the running boards, splash guards, bottom of the rear bumper and other places. Wires must be secured against things, and have stress relief points.

Good comments. I plan on running the wires through protective wire loom when I finish install. I am in southern California so I haven't had an issue with snow/ice build up. However, I can see where that can be a problem.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Good comments. I plan on running the wires through protective wire loom when I finish install. I am in southern California so I haven't had an issue with snow/ice build up. However, I can see where that can be a problem.

Yup - first thing I did - to prevent any wear or rubbing where it exits the left tail light area and anything else it may pass by under the truck.

 

[mazeppa]

I HATE tapping into SEALED factory wiring. I've done so many wiring jobs over the decades, and repaired so many rotted wires because someone used a tap or a scotchlock or similar - ugh. And when I bought a camper when I had my F250 I left the truck with the outfit to set up the WDH and add the trailer brake controller (state fair special - big bucks off the camper - and they included a TV, DVD player, brake controller, installation and WDH no extra charge)
I was so pissed I wanted to smack someone with a 2x4 when I saw those damned scotch locks hacked into the factory sealed tail light wires. The stupid thing is that the Ford was so popular back then and so many years they used the identical style and wiring - the adapters were a dime a dozen everywhere. They didn't have to tap into anything. For 10 bucks they could simply PLUG IT IT.
And I came home and ripped out their taps, used self-sealing heat shrink and properly soldered things into place. I was not happy.

With my JT, There was just no way I was going to tap into any factory wiring on a truck less than 2 years old. If they didn't offer that harness it would have been a deal breaker for me.

Check out the wiring and connections on trailers, just adequate enough to get you home from the lot so you can pull it all out and redo it properly.

This example is better than most.

 

[cecaa850]

Glad I didn't waste money on the harness from the looks of things.

 

[mdyucca]

Glad I didn't waste money on the harness from the looks of things.

You will have a better experience installing the lights and will be satisfied with your work connection a couple wires.

 

[margrxsalt]

The reverse lights look great. Per Oracle, i removed the one peg for easy placement. And as other stated had issues with the shortness of the harness. Oracle did reach out and will be sending out an extension. Thanks all for all the input and install help.

 

[am1978]

I used the PNP for this one, but for others I use posi-taps instead of the provided t-taps—less invasive.

 

[mazeppa]

Glad I didn't waste money on the harness from the looks of things.

I already had my wiring in place before I got the Oracle JT reverse lights, so I was very happy with the outcome of my installation. I wouldn't call Oracle harness a waste of money, appears it just needs a bit of modifications. On all the electrical PNP I've ever been involved with, there was always some type modifications I would make to satisfy myself there wouldn't be stress or rubbing of the wiring.

 

[Sperron]

Y'all complaining about the wires not being to long but I had to put a Jig Saw to my lights to make them fit. There is a bolt coming from the bumper that was in the way on both lights. I had to notch out the light right by the top inside screw hole to make them fit. I couldn't back out the screw because the top of the screw is covered by part of the bumper. So my options were to cut a notch or start disassembling my bumper to back out a screw on each side.
With that said I'm pretty happy with the lights. I think it was worth the money.

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