I was taught ½-turn in, then ¼-turn out. That way, you won't jam up the tap (or die.)I'm sort of curious - those holes were THAT packed and that much force was required/used to break a tap?
Mine cleaned right up - but I have a habit of turn the tap in, back it out, turn the tap in, back it out (which is how I was taught in machine shop classes). This way stuff gets cleaned out of the tap flutes and threads and makes things go a lot smoother. Even tapping holes in metal I never home run a tap (or a die).
That's probably a better way to put it - yes. Sounds right.I was taught ½-turn in, then ¼-turn out. That way, you won't jam up the tap (or die.)
Kevin
When I was doing mine the threads were really filled in. I had a hard time even getting the tap to start. I put the soldering iron in there to heat it up and it pulled some of the overspray out when I pulled the soldering iron back out.I'm sort of curious - those holes were THAT packed and that much force was required/used to break a tap?
Mine cleaned right up - but I have a habit of turn the tap in, back it out, turn the tap in, back it out (which is how I was taught in machine shop classes). This way stuff gets cleaned out of the tap flutes and threads and makes things go a lot smoother. Even tapping holes in metal I never home run a tap (or a die).
Anyway, those extractors would work, depending on which hole, isn't the back side accessible on the side holes? Can a person turn the tap through from the back?