Broken body mount weld

[SargeDiesel]

What was the fix as my driver side rear it’s broke free? Did the dealer have to make a hole in the tub to fix or was there another way?

let me know what you found out, I have the same exact issue. Thanks

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[SwampNut]

I got nothing in writing, not even a zero-dollar invoice. I dropped it off, they either called or texted the next day or so and said it would be covered. As I posted in the other thread, they also picked up and installed the rock rails that were the reason for the issue to start with.

If he sent a text, I wouldn't have it any more. And if it was a call, the recording would also be auto-deleted by now. So I have nothing more I can give you. The Jeep CS people here on the forum told me to deal with my dealer first, so they didn't really comment on it much.

 

[SargeDiesel]

I got nothing in writing, not even a zero-dollar invoice. I dropped it off, they either called or texted the next day or so and said it would be covered. As I posted in the other thread, they also picked up and installed the rock rails that were the reason for the issue to start with.

If he sent a text, I wouldn't have it any more. And if it was a call, the recording would also be auto-deleted by now. So I have nothing more I can give you. The Jeep CS people here on the forum told me to deal with my dealer first, so they didn't really comment on it much.

Thanks I'm sure you have been asked many times.. I appreciate your response.

 

[SargeDiesel]

Alright, so I just went down this road last night. I was on my last bolt for installing rock rails. Like an idiot in a hurry, I started the rear body mount bolt by hand then hit it with the impact.

The bolt let loose but there was no signs of it be stripped/damaged in anyway. I fed it back up through the mount and it went in the entire way with out engaging anything. I tried to shine a flashlight up the mount but it was tough sledding since it’s such a long corridor. I admitted defeat and went to bed.

This morning I decided to give it another go. When shining the flashlight under the jeep I noticed a square cutout next to the body mount. Wouldn’t you know it, I could see a piece of what looked like a nut. I used my finger to slide it towards the body mount location. I got it over far enough that I could then see part of it through the body mount hole.

Next, I very carefully fed a barbecue skewer through the hole and gently finagled the bolt back into location. After carefully inserting the body mount bolt and gently turning, it caught and I was able to tighten it.

My best guess is there is a nut tack welded on top of #5 in this illustration.

I realize this is old.. same thing happened to me, last bolt to be tightened and nothing, rear drivers side. What I was wondering is why can't you just access it through removing the two bolts from the #5(canister looking part) and access it there (right next to the cut out you used ?) seems like it would be easier than coming through the pan or trying to fish the nut over the hole the way you did (maybe I could use a magnet?).... i think you got lucky LOL

 

[SargeDiesel]

I have a picture of mine somewhere. It was only welded at one edge and had a tack on the other side. That mixed with the red loctite makes a bad combination.

Per their internal documentation you must heat the bolts with an induction heater until it's glowing orange to get the bolts out.

If you can dig up your pic, would you pm ot to me please..... Im trying to figure out how everything fits together above the big canister looking part inside the cab fir the rear driver side.... thanks

 

[SargeDiesel]

Alright, so I just went down this road last night. I was on my last bolt for installing rock rails. Like an idiot in a hurry, I started the rear body mount bolt by hand then hit it with the impact.

The bolt let loose but there was no signs of it be stripped/damaged in anyway. I fed it back up through the mount and it went in the entire way with out engaging anything. I tried to shine a flashlight up the mount but it was tough sledding since it’s such a long corridor. I admitted defeat and went to bed.

This morning I decided to give it another go. When shining the flashlight under the jeep I noticed a square cutout next to the body mount. Wouldn’t you know it, I could see a piece of what looked like a nut. I used my finger to slide it towards the body mount location. I got it over far enough that I could then see part of it through the body mount hole.

Next, I very carefully fed a barbecue skewer through the hole and gently finagled the bolt back into location. After carefully inserting the body mount bolt and gently turning, it caught and I was able to tighten it.

My best guess is there is a nut tack welded on top of #5 in this illustration.

Believe it or not same thing here. I had a shop do the install. I guess they didn't realize it until they were putting the last bolt in (Drivers/Rear) and you guessed it... spin , spin, spin ! They offered to reach out to their "Dealership Friend" or figure out how to fix it and charge the hell out of me. I contacted Jeep Cares, searched this forum, scoured the internet.. found nothing that really helped to much and then the shop at least so far has ghosted me.... They stated that the rock rails were bolted in so many other places, it wouldn't hurt to drive the Jeep (no offroading)...... Ran across your post, and even commented.."YOU GOT LUCKY"....

Well I also took a few deep breaths and slept on it a couple days, went out and revisited it. I am used to dong thing on my own. I then, also saw a glimpse of a nut/or something through the bolt hole and after A LOT of patients and about three hours, I finally managed to get the nut centered and the bolt threaded and tightened... oh what a feeling ! I did use a small wire routed through the square cutout to hold the nut down keeping it from moving of center and up when slowly threading the bolt in.

I am not sure if the nut has a top/bottom side , because mine was either a very thick nut or some type of tube with a nut type base. So I'm not sure if the "nut" is actually positioned correctly, but it tightened up and I left it alone.

I wanted to ask you , if you know the torque specs for the bolt/nut.. and where you found it ? I wrenched it on very tight but was so afraid of getting it screwed up again, so I didn't want to push it... but I would like to at least torq it to spec... very carefully.

Thanks for posting, because you gave my the nudge that I already had in my gut.. But one of those "if they did it, maybe I can to"... THANKS !

 

[RCKLNDR]

Believe it or not same thing here. I had a shop do the install. I guess they didn't realize it until they were putting the last bolt in (Drivers/Rear) and you guessed it... spin , spin, spin ! They offered to reach out to their "Dealership Friend" or figure out how to fix it and charge the hell out of me. I contacted Jeep Cares, searched this forum, scoured the internet.. found nothing that really helped to much and then the shop at least so far has ghosted me.... They stated that the rock rails were bolted in so many other places, it wouldn't hurt to drive the Jeep (no offroading)...... Ran across your post, and even commented.."YOU GOT LUCKY"....

Well I also took a few deep breaths and slept on it a couple days, went out and revisited it. I am used to dong thing on my own. I then, also saw a glimpse of a nut/or something through the bolt hole and after A LOT of patients and about three hours, I finally managed to get the nut centered and the bolt threaded and tightened... oh what a feeling ! I did use a small wire routed through the square cutout to hold the nut down keeping it from moving of center and up when slowly threading the bolt in.

I am not sure if the nut has a top/bottom side , because mine was either a very thick nut or some type of tube with a nut type base. So I'm not sure if the "nut" is actually positioned correctly, but it tightened up and I left it alone.

I wanted to ask you , if you know the torque specs for the bolt/nut.. and where you found it ? I wrenched it on very tight but was so afraid of getting it screwed up again, so I didn't want to push it... but I would like to at least torq it to spec... very carefully.

Thanks for posting, because you gave my the nudge that I already had in my gut.. But one of those "if they did it, maybe I can to"... THANKS !

I’m glad you got it sorted out. Unfortunately I’m not going to be anymore help. The only thing I break out the torque wrench for is beadlock bolts. Other than that, I just go 1 ugaduga or 2.

 

[SargeDiesel]

I’m glad you got it sorted out. Unfortunately I’m not going to be anymore help. The only thing I break out the torque wrench for is beadlock bolts. Other than that, I just go 1 ugaduga or 2.

sounds like me... probably should just check that its still tight.. if so, leave it alone. Thanks bud!

 

[cranbiz]

Just had it happen to my passengers rear bolt while I was installing my RSE steps. I was being very cautious, doing the small back and forth extraction technique and heat. Nut started spinning.

What I did was pull the rear seat , back panel and sub woofer. Pulled the hole plug on that side and used a bore scope to find the nut. It's not a traditional nut. I ended up cutting a 4"x4" hole in the top layer of the tub and then was able to beat the remainder of the sheared off tabs back into the spots they belonged and then put in 3 welds to resecure the nut. The actual location is near the side frame and to the front of the sub woofer stud on the floor. 4"x4" hole so I could get the mig torch in there. Then stitch welded the plate I cut back into place and covered the whole thing with gorilla tape. You can't see it once everything is back in place.

The nut is a conical retainer that is on a rectangular plate, which then is tacked in place. Mine only had 1 tack weld. The way it was secured is a poor design. If it was tacked in with 3 welds, it then wouldn't twist out and tear the metal. Save $.03 on welding wire to allow this to happen down the road is just dumb and no wonder why these let go. It's robot welded for Christs sake, program the robot to put in 2 more tacks.

The last thing I wanted to do is cut into my wife's $65,000 Jeep and from what I saw, it's the only way to fix it.

 

[caryt]

TTT, well started my Rock Slide install after reading all the problems and solutions. I have been working on Jeeps, trucks and cars for over 59 years so not a novice. Bought a bolt heater and long story short 1 bolt just easy as can be, 1 easy till last turn then nut inside broke loose, 2 very difficult and both nuts broke loose but got the bolts out. 2 bolts snapped and haven't got them out yet.. At least from what I see on a couple of these bolts its not the fact of to much loctite as I don't see any evidence of it being used but ends of threads are deformed on 4 sides on purpose so they bind solid and were not meant to be removed. My JK' were not deformed.

Now to fix this dam mess. My thoughts..if the wife can't get in so that's the reason for getting the steps just use a stool. If you rock crawl and need something for protection get ones that do not attach to the body mounts.

 

[SargeDiesel]

TTT, well started my Rock Slide install after reading all the problems and solutions. I have been working on Jeeps, trucks and cars for over 59 years so not a novice. Bought a bolt heater and long story short 1 bolt just easy as can be, 1 easy till last turn then nut inside broke loose, 2 very difficult and both nuts broke loose but got the bolts out. 2 bolts snapped and haven't got them out yet.. At least from what I see on a couple of these bolts its not the fact of to much loctite as I don't see any evidence of it being used but ends of threads are deformed on 4 sides on purpose so they bind solid and were not meant to be removed. My JK' were not deformed.

Now to fix this dam mess. My thoughts..if the wife can't get in so that's the reason for getting the steps just use a stool. If you rock crawl and need something for protection get ones that do not attach to the body mounts.

Is that an impact laying on the floor ? Is that what you used ?

 

[Gatorized]

TTT, well started my Rock Slide install after reading all the problems and solutions. I have been working on Jeeps, trucks and cars for over 59 years so not a novice. Bought a bolt heater and long story short 1 bolt just easy as can be, 1 easy till last turn then nut inside broke loose, 2 very difficult and both nuts broke loose but got the bolts out. 2 bolts snapped and haven't got them out yet.. At least from what I see on a couple of these bolts its not the fact of to much loctite as I don't see any evidence of it being used but ends of threads are deformed on 4 sides on purpose so they bind solid and were not meant to be removed. My JK' were not deformed.

Now to fix this dam mess. My thoughts..if the wife can't get in so that's the reason for getting the steps just use a stool. If you rock crawl and need something for protection get ones that do not attach to the body mounts.

that looks like blue on those threads. How is the factory getting the deformed threads through the nut Without causing issues while tightening?

 

[ShadowsPapa]

TTT, well started my Rock Slide install after reading all the problems and solutions. I have been working on Jeeps, trucks and cars for over 59 years so not a novice. Bought a bolt heater and long story short 1 bolt just easy as can be, 1 easy till last turn then nut inside broke loose, 2 very difficult and both nuts broke loose but got the bolts out. 2 bolts snapped and haven't got them out yet.. At least from what I see on a couple of these bolts its not the fact of to much loctite as I don't see any evidence of it being used but ends of threads are deformed on 4 sides on purpose so they bind solid and were not meant to be removed. My JK' were not deformed.

Now to fix this dam mess. My thoughts..if the wife can't get in so that's the reason for getting the steps just use a stool. If you rock crawl and need something for protection get ones that do not attach to the body mounts.

You know that the RSE power steps do not need to have the bolts removed - just a few turns loose. All you need is just enough to tap the bracket into place between the head and washer.

My bet - not enough time, not enough heat, not enough patience.

You mention taking bolts out - why?

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