Called my dealer for a regear quote…

[bleda2002]

Not sure what you mean by ‘4.88 is the optional regear from the factory.’ The 4.56 is the only factory gearing on the Wrangler Xtreme model.

Yes, you can buy aftermarket 4.88 gears from JPP Mopar parts, and have them installed by a mechanic in your existing axles, or you can buy the JPP Mopar entire 4.88 axle, and have it installed.

However, in both 4.88 scenarios, these are not ‘factory regear options,’ they are JPP aftermarket parts that you can have installed aftermarket, and see if you can get a dealer to do the installation work.

My point was the 4.56 is a true ‘factory option’ you can specify on a factory order for a new Wrangler, installed at the Jeep factory, of course, when your car is being built. Not so with 4.88, so I don’t get your point.

He talks about gear break-in during the first 500 miles (e.g., drive 15 minutes, let it cool down, drive another 15 minutes, rinse, and repeat, like 6 times!). So, why doesn't the Jeep Owners Manual address this elaborate gear break-in procedure? After all, a newly delivered JT has pritnear zero break-in time.

Jeep announced that you will be able to spec a wrangler Rubicon with 4.88s straight from the factory. That's how they are achieving the class leading 100:1 crawl ratio by going with 4:88s. So your point is wrong, they do offer 4.56 as the standard but do (or will) offer 4.88 as the upgrade if you want even more performance.

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[ShadowsPapa]

He talks about gear break-in during the first 500 miles (e.g., drive 15 minutes, let it cool down, drive another 15 minutes, rinse, and repeat, like 6 times!). So, why doesn't the Jeep Owners Manual address this elaborate gear break-in procedure? After all, a newly delivered JT has pritnear zero break-in time.

And yet for years, decades even, we installed different gear sets - in college and after, with no such break-in process.
How many guys take out 2.87 and put in 3.51 or 4.10 in their cars and drive them around, thrashing them with 400-600 HP, then take 'em to the track and really thrash 'em?
Never followed any such break-in. If the install was good, if the pattern was just right - take it and drive it is all we ever did.
Maybe today's gears aren't of the same quality, maybe the finish on today's gears is rougher.
It may be like the cam break-in myth - it's not necessary but has taken on a life of its own to the point even pro shops insist isn't needed but thousands of us install cams and start the engine and take it out to the street for the ring break-in procedure.

 

[MOPAR Boy]

Jeep announced that you will be able to spec a wrangler Rubicon with 4.88s straight from the factory. That's how they are achieving the class leading 100:1 crawl ratio by going with 4:88s. So your point is wrong, they do offer 4.56 as the standard but do (or will) offer 4.88 as the upgrade if you want even more performance.

Uh, yes, you are correct! My bad, I forgot about the coming later in MY2022 the Wrangler Xtreme Recon, factory equipped with 4.88 and a manual tranny. That 4.88 will be awesome!

I'm running 37's with 4.88 gearing (no FAD, as I'm running the JPP Mopar advanTEK Dana 44 crate axle, equipped with 4.88) in my JTRD.

 

[bleda2002]

And yet for years, decades even, we installed different gear sets - in college and after, with no such break-in process.
How many guys take out 2.87 and put in 3.51 or 4.10 in their cars and drive them around, thrashing them with 400-600 HP, then take 'em to the track and really thrash 'em?
Never followed any such break-in. If the install was good, if the pattern was just right - take it and drive it is all we ever did.
Maybe today's gears aren't of the same quality, maybe the finish on today's gears is rougher.
It may be like the cam break-in myth - it's not necessary but has taken on a life of its own to the point even pro shops insist isn't needed but thousands of us install cams and start the engine and take it out to the street for the ring break-in procedure.

Whats funny is that I told my wife i scheduled my appt to get 5.13's put in this weekend, and told her the break in process, and her first thougth was the same, "Why do you have to do that if its not needed in new cars?"

 

[CrazyCooter]

Whats funny is that I told my wife i scheduled my appt to get 5.13's put in this weekend, and told her the break in process, and her first thougth was the same, "Why do you have to do that if its not needed in new cars?"

I do it in new cars too! The manual in my 2006 Dodge 3500 said no towing for 500 miles ......Nothing about changing the oil afterwards though.

I started shipping all gear swaps with Amsoil Severe gear 75w140 about 6 years ago and I have not had a single gear set come back burned since. The client always looks at you in the eye during the pick up and swears they will do the proper break in and oil change,.......but the reality is, they seldom actually do it. The all have the same story after about 5-10k miles too.......I changed the oil like you said, but it's making noise now......The oil looks new with no metal in it at the inspection while the teeth are half the original thickness indicating they changed to oil AFTER it started making noise! The Amsoil virtually eliminates the possibility of a potential warranty claim within the warranty period, however at a higher cost to the client from the more expensive oil.

I this modern society in a majority of people who want zero responsibility and a lifetime warranty, gotta protect yourself. I honestly would prefer to NOT deal with aftermarket work because this is where 99% of the warranty claims come from.......Crappy parts or abuse.

 

[Wheelin98TJ]

I do it in new cars too! The manual in my 2006 Dodge 3500 said no towing for 500 miles ......Nothing about changing the oil afterwards though.

I started shipping all gear swaps with Amsoil Severe gear 75w140 about 6 years ago and I have not had a single gear set come back burned since. The client always looks at you in the eye during the pick up and swears they will do the proper break in and oil change,.......but the reality is, they seldom actually do it. The all have the same story after about 5-10k miles too.......I changed the oil like you said, but it's making noise now......The oil looks new with no metal in it at the inspection while the teeth are half the original thickness indicating they changed to oil AFTER it started making noise! The Amsoil virtually eliminates the possibility of a potential warranty claim within the warranty period, however at a higher cost to the client from the more expensive oil.

I this modern society in a majority of people who want zero responsibility and a lifetime warranty, gotta protect yourself. I honestly would prefer to NOT deal with aftermarket work because this is where 99% of the warranty claims come from.......Crappy parts or abuse.

75w140 synthetic?

You never use gear sets that recommend conventional oil?

 

[CrazyCooter]

75w140 synthetic?

You never use gear sets that recommend conventional oil?

I think they all recommend conventional oil, but I've seen better results over the past 20 years from synthetics. Even my main drivetrain supplier cringes when I tell them I ship them with synthetic, but the elimination of warranties of burned gear sets has stopped since switching tells the story.

I think the fear of synthetics is just old skool ignorance. I've been installing synthetics almost exclusively in all applications (Business and personal) the past 18 years and have yet to see a single negative effect.

 

[Wheelin98TJ]

I think they all recommend conventional oil, but I've seen better results over the past 20 years from synthetics. Even my main drivetrain supplier cringes when I tell them I ship them with synthetic, but the elimination of warranties of burned gear sets has stopped since switching tells the story.

I think the fear of synthetics is just old skool ignorance. I've been installing synthetics almost exclusively in all applications (Business and personal) the past 18 years and have yet to see a single negative effect.

Currie says synthetic runs hotter.

 

[CrazyCooter]

Currie says synthetic runs hotter.

I know Currie is one that doesn't like synthetics. I cant confirm or deny their claims as I have never tested temps in a clinical lab environment. Again, is this ALL synthetics or just one that was tested? How many hours of run time? Is there a point over the hours of run time where the temps cross paths and there is a unseen benefit? Is it Ford 9" (What Currie is known for) pinion offsets causing a situation that isn't ideal for synthetics?

Maybe Gale Banks should have included the dino vs. Synthetic oil comparison in his differential documentation series?

I can tell you after opening 1000's of differentials before and after synthetics, I'll always choose the synthetic oil.

 

[Wheelin98TJ]

I know Currie is one that doesn't like synthetics. I cant confirm or deny their claims as I have never tested temps in a clinical lab environment. Again, is this ALL synthetics or just one that was tested? How many hours of run time? Is there a point over the hours of run time where the temps cross paths and there is a unseen benefit? Is it Ford 9" (What Currie is known for) pinion offsets causing a situation that isn't ideal for synthetics?

Maybe Gale Banks should have included the dino vs. Synthetic oil comparison in his differential documentation series?

I can tell you after opening 1000's of differentials before and after synthetics, I'll always choose the synthetic oil.

Currie went through the trouble of building an axle dyno to determine what was causing the failures. I don't doubt their testing at all.

 

[CrazyCooter]

Currie went through the trouble of building an axle dyno to determine what was causing the failures. I don't doubt their testing at all.

Cool! Do what you believe in then!

I only do about 150 differentials a year over the past 20 or so years , so I couldn't possibly know anything.

 

[Wheelin98TJ]

Cool! Do what you believe in then!

I only do about 150 differentials a year over the past 20 or so years , so I couldn't possibly know anything.

I’m not doubting you. I’m interested in your perspective. Thanks for your input.

 

[CrazyCooter]

I’m not doubting you. I’m interested in your perspective. Thanks for your input.

So hard with the internet now.....At first it was great because we had so much information within seconds. Now I feel like it's just full of garbage and you don't know what to believe.

In the case of the synthetic oil possibly running warmer.....maybe it really does, but it doesn't break down as fast running at the elevated temps? Better protection for the severe conditions and broke down sooner, but if a person changed the dino oil all the time it could actually be better?

I know in my Peterbilt every gear box temp dropped dramatically after installing Amsoil fluids in it I saw lower overall temps over the 6 years I drove it while loaded than my initial drive home in it unloaded. In that time I had also had the power turned up, continually added weight, and operated in more severe conditions like driving the in the Rockies.

I have no interest in what anyone here does, only what benefits me and the clients I serve, so take my info's worth what you paid for it!

 

[MrKnowitall]

I think they all recommend conventional oil, but I've seen better results over the past 20 years from synthetics. Even my main drivetrain supplier cringes when I tell them I ship them with synthetic, but the elimination of warranties of burned gear sets has stopped since switching tells the story.

I think the fear of synthetics is just old skool ignorance. I've been installing synthetics almost exclusively in all applications (Business and personal) the past 18 years and have yet to see a single negative effect.

Just to confirm- you fill with synthetic at install for the break-in period. I've long been told stories about how things don't break in well that way. Anymore, seems like you'd have to go out of your way to even buy "conventional" oil. When I bought 6qts of conventional to break in the reman engine in our JK, it cost about the same as private label synthetic. Even the top-shelf Amsoil you spec adds a paltry $80 to a post break-in change on both axles over the cheapest stuff I could find.

 

[CrazyCooter]

Just to confirm- you fill with synthetic at install for the break-in period. I've long been told stories about how things don't break in well that way. Anymore, seems like you'd have to go out of your way to even buy "conventional" oil. When I bought 6qts of conventional to break in the reman engine in our JK, it cost about the same as private label synthetic. Even the top-shelf Amsoil you spec adds a paltry $80 to a post break-in change on both axles over the cheapest stuff I could find.

Yes, Amsoil Severe Gear is installed in every gear job that leaves my shop. Yes it adds cost to the job that probably scares some people off, but at least it saves me the costs of an expensive and awkward situation in case of a suspect failure.

People have proven time after time they can't be trusted do the proper break in or the oil change afterward. Some gears have a better or worse finish than others and can or can't tolerate loads that generate heat. Not everyone is a fanatic that changes fluids every 5-10k.....those guys could be served well with the cheapest conventional. I dont love working on my machines anymore, so I use the good stuff and stretch out the intervals.

I'm not a metalergist, but I can see the end results over the years.

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