Carrier bearing spacer for rear driveshaft

[NCLife]

Super easy. If your truck is old hit the bolts with pb blaster night before.

Get on your back under the truck, take the knee opposite your strong hand and brace the driveshaft forward of the carrier bearing and install with new bolts.

It seemed easier than trying to f around with a jack under there, imo. It isnt heavy and takes less than 10min. Theres no surprises.

Perfect thx Kurt

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[KurtP]

Perfect thx Kurt

Np! It made a bigger difference to the ds angle than i expected, honestly.

 

[MoparMadness]

I just picked up the Rock Jock spacer. Is it as simple to install as it looks? Any pointers?

They are pretty easy to install. Rock Jock has decent installation instructions to follow however, they don’t always include them with the parts. If they were not included, the installation instructions are available on their website.

 

[hjdca]

I also have the Rock Jock installed with my Clayton 3.5" Overland Plus lift kit. I did not change any control arm specs when I installed it, and I did not have any vibration before I installed it..., but, after I installed it, I could see that my pinion angle was better. Cheap price, easy install, makes a difference, JT owners should take advantage of it, since we have the two piece rear driveshaft.

 

[We are in trouble]

Is anyone running a carrier bearing spacer to correct rear pinion and driveline angles on a taller lift?

Dana spicer and a couple other makers have them out...typically made from billet aluminum.

Thanks to KurtP I installed the rock jock spacer for a 2' lift. Could be my imagination but my ride felt smoother. just looking at it I can see that my drive shaft is much happier for it.

 

[KurtP]

Thanks to KurtP I installed the rock jock spacer for a 2' lift. Could be my imagination but my ride felt smoother. just looking at it I can see that my drive shaft is much happier for it.

Good shaft angles make all the difference. Just ask a woman’s g spot.

 

[CrazyCooter]

Does anyone have the data for setting up proper angles for drivelines with Rzeppa joints? I can't seem to find anything in my searches.

 

[MoparMadness]

Does anyone have the data for setting up proper angles for drivelines with Rzeppa joints? I can't seem to find anything in my searches.

The rear pinion should be 2-3 degrees down in relation to the driveshaft.

 

[Renegade]

Does anyone have the data for setting up proper angles for drivelines with Rzeppa joints? I can't seem to find anything in my searches.

It’s a constant velocity joint, so the old-school “2-3 degrees down” numbers for u-joint shafts don’t necessarily apply. Those were to account for pinion angle rise during driving forces, which may not occur in our 5-link rear suspensions anyway. Setting it in line with the pinion gear would be ideal, as long as the angle stays within operational parameters of the joint when the suspension is at maximum compression and extension. Don’t overthink it, as it shouldn’t vibrate even if it’s a few degrees out of line. That’s the great thing about CVs vs. u-joints.

 

[MoparMadness]

It’s a constant velocity joint, so the old-school “2-3 degrees down” numbers for u-joint shafts don’t necessarily apply. Those were to account for pinion angle rise during driving forces, which may not occur in our 5-link rear suspensions anyway. Setting it in line with the pinion gear would be ideal, as long as the angle stays within operational parameters of the joint when the suspension is at maximum compression and extension. Don’t overthink it, as it shouldn’t vibrate even if it’s a few degrees out of line. That’s the great thing about CVs vs. u-joints.

Zero degrees in this application is not recommended. If you measure a stock one you will notice it is not zero. Will it fail in the near future probably not, but setting at zero will cause two issues on a Gladiator: 1) the axle spring pad angle comes out of alignment with the frame spring mount, creating a spring bow and, 2) it will create false brinelling of the joint bearings as they will have essentially no oscillations other than periods when the suspension cycles and there is a small angle change. With this type of joint, your better off with some angle rather than zero as they have a large operating range but lose torque handling strength at extreme angles. You don’t need to worry phasing like you would with a u-joint and you are correct that vibration is not really a concern. Tipping the pinion up can also raise two axle concerns: 1) reduces oil flow to the yoke side pinion bearing which can cause pinion bearing damage over time however, going to zero in this application may not be enough to raise this concern and, 2) will reduce your axle fill capacity similar to someone trying to fill the housing with the Jeep parked on an incline. This then increases oil duty cycle which reduces the life and it reduces overall cooling capacity.

 

[CrazyCooter]

It’s a constant velocity joint, so the old-school “2-3 degrees down” numbers for u-joint shafts don’t necessarily apply. Those were to account for pinion angle rise during driving forces, which may not occur in our 5-link rear suspensions anyway. Setting it in line with the pinion gear would be ideal, as long as the angle stays within operational parameters of the joint when the suspension is at maximum compression and extension. Don’t overthink it, as it shouldn’t vibrate even if it’s a few degrees out of line. That’s the great thing about CVs vs. u-joints.

I seriously doubt it would vibrate even if its set at the incorrect angle due to its design, so that makes me want to know how to verify correct setup!

In a system with universal/double cardan joints, lowering the carrier bearing is incorrect even though most lift kit manufacturers include that in the kit.

My truck is only lifted .75 at the rear right now, but I did a 4.5 lift for a client and just did what Evo said........I want to know what it the textbook correct setup is.

 

[Renegade]

Zero degrees in this application is not recommended. If you measure a stock one you will notice it is not zero. Will it fail in the near future probably not, but setting at zero will cause two issues on a Gladiator: 1) the axle spring pad angle comes out of alignment with the frame spring mount, creating a spring bow and, 2) it will create false brinelling of the joint bearings as they will have essentially no oscillations other than periods when the suspension cycles and there is a small angle change. With this type of joint, your better off with some angle rather than zero as they have a large operating range but lose torque handling strength at extreme angles. You don’t need to worry phasing like you would with a u-joint and you are correct that vibration is not really a concern. Tipping the pinion up can also raise two axle concerns: 1) reduces oil flow to the yoke side pinion bearing which can cause pinion bearing damage over time however, going to zero in this application may not be enough to raise this concern and, 2) will reduce your axle fill capacity similar to someone trying to fill the housing with the Jeep parked on an incline. This then increases oil duty cycle which reduces the life and it reduces overall cooling capacity.

I will agree on the points you stated. I wasn’t taking the spring pad angle into consideration, although that can also be corrected with angled polyurethane pads if necessary. My point was that it’s not as critical as it used to be with u-joints.

 

[Molarmaker]

Yes sir, I have an Evo 6.5” lift and they insist on using a spacer (they provide with kit).

But that two piece driveshaft has worried me from day 1. I have zero evidence that it would fail, was more so just personal preference of being a weirdo about it.
Ended up going with a Tom Woods one piece shaft with 1350 joints. She’s strong now

What length did you give Tom Woods for that lift? Just curious, I’m installing the same tomorrow on my 2021 gladiator rubicon diesel

 

[Geekjeep]

What is the torque spec for the carrier bolts

 

[MoparMadness]

What is the torque spec for the carrier bolts

Rear drive shaft carrier bearing attachment bolts - 45 ft. lbs.

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