That’s good to know if I go that route. Thanks man
Bingo.
Makes sense. Hopefully the FAD route works out and I can share the cheap easy fix. Thanks for your wisdom man
It's as simple as it gets, 2 wire connection. Ground to ground and positive to the aux wire by the battery. It's low amp draw so aux 3 or 4 will work.
Your description of the double cardan proper geometry is wrong. The pinion should be pointed up at the transfer case output. This is where the cut and turn comes into play and the source of the OPs vibration. The more you lift the more the pinion needs rolled upwards. The problem there is rolling the pinion up reduces caster. With 3"+ of lift the caster will likely end up at 1 or 2⁰ and the thing would be undrivable. If there was an aftermarket high angle rzeppa shaft then you could set the pinion at 0⁰ and have shot 6⁰ of caster. Even with a lunchbox locker if you still have the FAD your front shaft shouldn't spin as there's no load so your side gears should be disengaged. If you still have the stock front shaft the rzeppa is allowing you to run enough caster even if the shaft is spinning.
Perfect thanks. I’ll update when it’s all done.
I was racking my brain on the 0° pinion angle. I’ve watched all those videos and even though I’m new to this (June of this year). I learn quickly and try not to put out crappy info. There are people on here that will be quick to judge and act as if you have done no research. They don’t ask questions first or they don’t read the info u put out earlier in the thread. I understand what is causing the vibration. I don’t know it all but I can tell you I’m not putting out bad information. Not sure if that comment earlier was pertaining to me. But I ran across a new issue an I’m just trying to solve it. You have been awesome and a ton of help. I appreciate it. I know the true fix is dropping a ton of money on a high pinion axle housing or upgrade to a complete high pinion front axle (Dynatrac pro rock 44 or Dana 60 with high pinion housing). If I were to go back I would still go 3.5 cause I love the break over angle. I truly think you have the best solution with the fad actuator install. Maybe this will help people in the future with 24 and ups. Thanks man for having my back.Your description of the double cardan proper geometry is wrong. The pinion should be pointed up at the transfer case output. This is where the cut and turn comes into play and the source of the OPs vibration. The more you lift the more the pinion needs rolled upwards. The problem there is rolling the pinion up reduces caster. With 3"+ of lift the caster will likely end up at 1 or 2⁰ and the thing would be undrivable. If there was an aftermarket high angle rzeppa shaft then you could set the pinion at 0⁰ and have shot 6⁰ of caster. Even with a lunchbox locker if you still have the FAD your front shaft shouldn't spin as there's no load so your side gears should be disengaged. If you still have the stock front shaft the rzeppa is allowing you to run enough caster even if the shaft is spinning.
I have a 3.5 lift. My shock length is 27.99" extended and so far no issues with the front drive shaft.Your description of the double cardan proper geometry is wrong. The pinion should be pointed up at the transfer case output. This is where the cut and turn comes into play and the source of the OPs vibration. The more you lift the more the pinion needs rolled upwards. The problem there is rolling the pinion up reduces caster. With 3"+ of lift the caster will likely end up at 1 or 2⁰ and the thing would be undrivable. If there was an aftermarket high angle rzeppa shaft then you could set the pinion at 0⁰ and have shot 6⁰ of caster. Even with a lunchbox locker if you still have the FAD your front shaft shouldn't spin as there's no load so your side gears should be disengaged. If you still have the stock front shaft the rzeppa is allowing you to run enough caster even if the shaft is spinning.
Your caster is still crap and below the low spec Jeep puts out. Rolling your caster up to 6⁰ will point your pinion down another 2.25⁰ from where it's at. It will still be OK if you have the stock front shaft with rzeppa joint. The issue is the aftermarket double cardan shaft needs the pinion pointed at the tcase output, which would mean rolling your caster down to 1-2⁰. Nobody makes a long travel, high angle aftermarket rzeppa shaft so that's where the issue lies. With 3.5" of lift I'd rather see a 30" extended length shock, which would be too much for the stock shaft. It's a combination of factors that doesn't have an easy solution if you don't run a FAD. With the FAD you can set caster at 6⁰ and it won't matter if your double cardan shaft would vibrate a 60mph because most are never doing that in 4wd.I have a 3.5 lift. My shock length is 27.99" extended and so far no issues with the front drive shaft.
Caster is 3.89 on left and 3.76 on right. I have no clue on how it drives, but I am considering adding either adjustable control arms or geo correction brackets.
Caster of 1 or 2 degrees seems off.
https://www.extremeterrain.com/tera...4314a585b18db78a890&gclsrc=3p.ds&gad_source=7
checked. That means the front driveshaft is inert in 2H with a FAD
I don't believe they allow any more angle than the stock one from guys testing them on the JL forum. I'll just stick with the FAD and good caster and not worry about the pinion angle. Yes you can run 60+ in 4HI, but I've never needed 4wd running that fast. The JTM lives mostly in 2wd because you can't drift turns very well at 70mph in the dirt in 4wd.
I still say solution for the OP is installation of a FAD and 6° caster. Despite his insistence that his JT has this and that ..blah blah. With the FAD the front driveshaft TaDo is eliminated. Cause when one is wheel in 4WD how fast does one really go I doubt I ever went much about 45mph in 4WD.
That's way below even low stock.
No need to check - it's a given and why the disconnect exists. The carrier gears - side gears and spiders rotate. Left axle and left side gear rotate in a forward direction, spinning the carrier's spiders and causing the right side gear to spin in reverse direction. All power/torque is lost there. The carrier, thus the ring gear and pinion, are free to just sit there. It can move slowly in very cold weather as the friction of the cold fluid causes it to turn the whole carrier and the drive shaft (so if you get a very slow squeak, squeak, squeak sound on a cold winter day, could be the driveshaft is tuning really slow under there and rubbing on a shield or something - it's happened to a guy years ago.https://www.extremeterrain.com/tera...4314a585b18db78a890&gclsrc=3p.ds&gad_source=7
Get 2 of these
With the FAD installed.
And in 2H the driveshaft rotates freely.
I know because I
