Dealer Trying to Void Warranty

[Zachanadandy]

You must get a thrill out of arguing with others with how often you change your tune.

I literally haven't changed my tune once, y'all want to misinterpret and misquote what I actually said and I explain it plain as day. I literally say "this bracket has some use stock but won't work as designed on MY LIFTED Jeep" and you spend 3 days correcting me on how it works stock, want designed for lifted trucks, and I shouldn't be telling people to remove it? I never said any of that you just have trouble reading. As far as this thread I stated that you can't wire the winch to aux switch due to ampacity. I even then started you can use the aux switch to control a solenoid if you choose. When did my tune change?

Sponsored

 

[ShadowsPapa]

If you haven't done the relay box relocation and it gets wet a few times for corrosion to start, it will drain your battery if it is hot off the battery.

Corrosion and/or dirty water like found in puddles, ponds, rivers and streams.

I'm not sure which model it was but I bought it from a local store. It came with the warn solenoid. I got it for a Christmas gift for my brother in law a few years back.

LOL, interesting.......... whatever...........

 

[Rainman519]

...probably your winch. Installed mine myself, wired directly to the battery (I have no aux switches). took it in for electrical service and tech tells me that since I did it myself, they couldn't even test the electrical system (read, aux battery) as my warranty might be voided. Tech was phenomenal and told me exactly what their concern was. Literally, drove it to a parking lot, disconnected the winch, and took it back. Voila! My warranty is back in tact and they ran their diagnostics. Seems their concern was that I had two connections inverted (winch worked fine) and they didn't like that.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

...probably your winch. Installed mine myself, wired directly to the battery (I have no aux switches). took it in for electrical service and tech tells me that since I did it myself, they couldn't even test the electrical system (read, aux battery) as my warranty might be voided. Tech was phenomenal and told me exactly what their concern was. Literally, drove it to a parking lot, disconnected the winch, and took it back. Voila! My warranty is back in tact and they ran their diagnostics. Seems their concern was that I had two connections inverted (winch worked fine) and they didn't like that.

Wish I had had that sort of luck a couple of years back........ their fix was moving the winch ground cable from the top of the IBS to a chassis ground. Electrically identical, cable-wise, they introduced a smaller cable into my winch ground by doing that.
Where I'm going now, they don't seem to mind that I have snow plow cables throughout the engine bay, winch, power steps and other stuff.
But if I ever run into what some are seeing, it's a simple matter of pulling a couple of cables off the battery and going in saying "see, no electric mods"
You ran across not only a clever tech but a place where there's still a trace of "customer service'.

 

[JTGuy]

I installed my winch myself and it's hard wired to the battery. I leave the + side not attached till I need it. No switches, no problem.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

The downside is that because fuse 42 is pulled, the ESS system will no longer operate. It states Stop/start not ready.

That won't stop ESS from working. There's something else it's detecting that is preventing it from working so- that means there's another issue with that truck.
F42 ONLY prevents the PCR relay from opening for the aux battery check. It still believes it opened the relay and still senses power where it's expecting it - because it's seeing the main battery voltage.

the truck starts and runs better and the charging system works more efficiently.

How would it run better? Placebo effect. It can't run any better! That's because the ESS system has zero impact on how it runs, and as long as it's got adequate voltage, it won't know or care about batteries.
No way it can possibly "run better". Start better? No, not unless you had some serious issues causing low voltage during cranking.

Your mods didn't do a thing for the charging system to work more "efficiently". How could it?
All you likely did was install a fully charged new battery and in the process, left the IBS unplugged long enough for it to reset. The same thing could be accomplished with the aux battery system in place.

Sorry, but noting you did made it run better, cause ESS to not work, or make the charging system work better.

I installed my winch myself and it's hard wired to the battery. I leave the + side not attached till I need it. No switches, no problem.

There's "quick connect" connectors for exactly that. Slip the cable over the stud on the quick connect and tighten the big nut down by hand. Takes seconds and no tools needed.
No switch to mount, no second short cable to run, clean and simple. Slip in the cable, snug down the nut. Go.

 

[Gvsukids]

I installed my winch myself and it's hard wired to the battery. I leave the + side not attached till I need it. No switches, no problem.

Hope you don't have to open your hood in the middle of a mud hole, or on the side of a cliff.

 

[Towzone100]

That won't stop ESS from working. There's something else it's detecting that is preventing it from working so- that means there's another issue with that truck.
F42 ONLY prevents the PCR relay from opening for the aux battery check. It still believes it opened the relay and still senses power where it's expecting it - because it's seeing the main battery voltage.



How would it run better? Placebo effect. It can't run any better! That's because the ESS system has zero impact on how it runs, and as long as it's got adequate voltage, it won't know or care about batteries.
No way it can possibly "run better". Start better? No, not unless you had some serious issues causing low voltage during cranking.

Your mods didn't do a thing for the charging system to work more "efficiently". How could it?
All you likely did was install a fully charged new battery and in the process, left the IBS unplugged long enough for it to reset. The same thing could be accomplished with the aux battery system in place.

Sorry, but noting you did made it run better, cause ESS to not work, or make the charging system work better.



There's "quick connect" connectors for exactly that. Slip the cable over the stud on the quick connect and tighten the big nut down by hand. Takes seconds and no tools needed.
No switch to mount, no second short cable to run, clean and simple. Slip in the cable, snug down the nut. Go.

I find it funny that you were so hell-bent on telling me that I was wrong that you took my post out of context. I was simply trying to say that the aux battery are the cause of some electrical issues. In my case I have replaced both Factory batteries twice and was done with it.

So I chose to delete the aux battery and put in a bigger better battery as the main battery.

As for the charging system working more efficiently of course it's going to because the new battery has a lower resistance value.

As for the truck running better yes some of that is Placebo but it does start a lot better with the new battery especially in the cold.

As for the ESS system being disabled as the down side to what I have done.

That won't stop ESS from working. There's something else it's detecting that is preventing it from working so- that means there's another issue with that truck.
F42 ONLY prevents the PCR relay from opening for the aux battery check. It still believes it opened the relay and still senses power where it's expecting it - because it's seeing the main battery voltage.



How would it run better? Placebo effect. It can't run any better! That's because the ESS system has zero impact on how it runs, and as long as it's got adequate voltage, it won't know or care about batteries.
No way it can possibly "run better". Start better? No, not unless you had some serious issues causing low voltage during cranking.

Your mods didn't do a thing for the charging system to work more "efficiently". How could it?
All you likely did was install a fully charged new battery and in the process, left the IBS unplugged long enough for it to reset. The same thing could be accomplished with the aux battery system in place.

Sorry, but noting you did made it run better, cause ESS to not work, or make the charging system work better.



There's "quick connect" connectors for exactly that. Slip the cable over the stud on the quick connect and tighten the big nut down by hand. Takes seconds and no tools needed.
No switch to mount, no second short cable to run, clean and simple. Slip in the cable, snug down the nut. Go.

I find it funny that you were so hell-bent on telling me I was wrong that you took my post out of context. I was simply trying to say that the aux battery is the cause of some electrical issues, as in the case of my truck. I have had to replace both Factory batteries twice because my aux battery failed, and ended up taking the main battery with it. And no, there are no aftermarket accessories draining the system. The parasitic draw is well within factory specs, and I had the dealer verify this.

So, I deleted the aux battery and installed a larger, better battery as the main battery.

As for the charging system working more efficiently, of course, it will work more efficiently because of the battery's lower resistance value.

As for the truck running better, yes, some of that is Placebo, but it does start easier, especially in the cold, and given the fact it is an ecodiesel, I take that as a plus. In addition, I no longer get the warning message "AUX switches are not available while the battery is charging."

As for my statement about my ESS system being disabled, with my TIPM, when the fuse for the PCR relay is removed, the stop/run relay will not function. Footnote from the schematic for my TIPM. "If the PRC (ESS) fuse is blown, the ESS system is inoperable." To verify this, I reinstalled the fuse, and sure enough, the stop/run function was operating again, but this time on my main battery. So, no, nothing else is wrong with my truck.

I would like to thank you for responding to my post because you reminded me why I stopped posting on Forums in the first place. It's really sad when you think about it. Forums used to be a place to come and share knowledge, admire other's work and chat about the same interests without being trolled. I guess times have changed.

 

[stuckindeep]

I told them to replace the batteries and I'll get the oil service at another dealer. Very disappointed, as this was the good service dealer previously. claiming a electrical warranty is void because of a couple accessories that have been on there for years, usually off, and connected to their aux control system.

The mistake everyone makes is customizing your vehicle while under warranty. Certain things that do not affect your warranty are do it yourself tire up sizing, running boards, tonneau covers. Suspension, drivetrain, any electrical mods, using a programming tool to customize operating parameters and engine mods that are not done by the dealer will void your warranty. People do not read the fine print and just because things were done by a previous owner does not preclude the warranty buyer beware.

If you have not yet contact Jeep Cares.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

The mistake everyone makes is customizing your vehicle while under warranty. Certain things that do not affect your warranty are do it yourself tire up sizing, running boards, tonneau covers. Suspension, drivetrain, any electrical mods, using a programming tool to customize operating parameters and engine mods that are not done by the dealer will void your warranty.

Bull crap.
Suspension changes do not void warranty. They only void the warranty if you place it well outside of normal design parameters, and void the warranty on the parts you replace because they are no longer there.

I have Synergy springs under the front of my truck - and the dealer swapped out my front shocks under warranty. They know of my mods, the springs, the front receiver, plow equipment, winch, bumper, all of the wiring and equipment I've installed and yet checked it over for free for a popping noise (which they never found but it's not getting more frequent so they might be able to find it now).
I have a snow plow, winch, power steps and other electric mods on mine - and they resolved CANbus communication issues under warranty.
They spent 45 minutes - for free, helping figure out a temperature sensor and HVAC issue while I had the snow plow on.

I'll have no problem getting electrical issues looked at under warranty (as long as I don't take it back to the dealer closest to me - what a hoot).

You mention upping tire sizes won't affect warranty then say using a tool to program in the new tire size which falls under you "customize operating parameters" will void the warranty. No, it won't.
If you disable TPMP or do something to otherwise make it work improperly, what the dealer can't do legally is send your truck back out without TPMS fully operational. Federal law.

I can do a gear swap and all that it will void warranty-wise is the differentials themselves - axle shafts, seals, brakes and so on, will be covered.

You do have to be careful about engine mods as then you may be stepping on emissions control issues.

The mistake everyone makes is customizing your vehicle while under warranty.

LOL - so everyone has to wait for at least 3 years for the main warranty and then 5 years for anything impacting the drivetrain like gear changes or driveshaft changes?
Laughable.

What you have to be careful of is the mods you make that may cause stock parts to break or fail because of your mods. Do a massive lift and huge tires and then pop a STOCK drive shaft or u-joint, that's where the problems are.

So folks, looks like he's saying don't modify your vehicles for at least 5 years or 60,000 miles and longer if you have a MOPAR "extended warranty".

But that's simply not true.
What will impact your warranty will vary greatly. How it may impact warranty will vary greatly - but in most cases, reasonable mods done well won't have any impact on anything other than the parts you swap out. Don't expect to have a dealer diagnose certain handling issues if nothing under the truck is stock. You built it - not Jeep.
Don't expect them to diagnose charging system issues with some of the battery mods seen out there - you built that system, not Jeep.

 

[stuckindeep]

Bull crap.
Suspension changes do not void warranty. They only void the warranty if you place it well outside of normal design parameters, and void the warranty on the parts you replace because they are no longer there.

I have Synergy springs under the front of my truck - and the dealer swapped out my front shocks under warranty. They know of my mods, the springs, the front receiver, plow equipment, winch, bumper, all of the wiring and equipment I've installed and yet checked it over for free for a popping noise (which they never found but it's not getting more frequent so they might be able to find it now).
I have a snow plow, winch, power steps and other electric mods on mine - and they resolved CANbus communication issues under warranty.
They spent 45 minutes - for free, helping figure out a temperature sensor and HVAC issue while I had the snow plow on.

I'll have no problem getting electrical issues looked at under warranty (as long as I don't take it back to the dealer closest to me - what a hoot).

You mention upping tire sizes won't affect warranty then say using a tool to program in the new tire size which falls under you "customize operating parameters" will void the warranty. No, it won't.
If you disable TPMP or do something to otherwise make it work improperly, what the dealer can't do legally is send your truck back out without TPMS fully operational. Federal law.

I can do a gear swap and all that it will void warranty-wise is the differentials themselves - axle shafts, seals, brakes and so on, will be covered.

You do have to be careful about engine mods as then you may be stepping on emissions control issues.


LOL - so everyone has to wait for at least 3 years for the main warranty and then 5 years for anything impacting the drivetrain like gear changes or driveshaft changes?
Laughable.

What you have to be careful of is the mods you make that may cause stock parts to break or fail because of your mods. Do a massive lift and huge tires and then pop a STOCK drive shaft or u-joint, that's where the problems are.

So folks, looks like he's saying don't modify your vehicles for at least 5 years or 60,000 miles and longer if you have a MOPAR "extended warranty".

But that's simply not true.
What will impact your warranty will vary greatly. How it may impact warranty will vary greatly - but in most cases, reasonable mods done well won't have any impact on anything other than the parts you swap out. Don't expect to have a dealer diagnose certain handling issues if nothing under the truck is stock. You built it - not Jeep.
Don't expect them to diagnose charging system issues with some of the battery mods seen out there - you built that system, not Jeep.

Think what you want, do what you want and be what you want that is all you.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Think what you want, do what you want and be what you want that is all you.

I know from experience - and law. They can't void a warranty so simply. Some will try, and some mods will void specific areas or parts - but you are very incorrect on your statements about what will void a warranty.
We've discussed it all here for years, in numerous threads. And now you lay out something totally contrary to all of that discussion?

If I replace my tail lights with something from Oracle, for example, they can't void my electrical warranty, or even my lighting warranty other than anything that impacts the tail lights.
If the headlights go dark - unless they can find I messed up with the tail light installation, they are required to handle the headlights. I may have to pay a diagnostic fee just in case my changes caused the headlights to not work - but they can't say because I changed some other lighting, or added my Oracle backup lights that now suddenly my electric or even lighting warranty is void. They can't do that. It's only if a change I made causes the fault where I may run into trouble.
I swapped to taller front springs - the dealer knows that, I talked to them about it, they've worked on the truck - and yet they were happy to replace my front shocks under warranty. (technically they COULD have said "you changed the right height, we won't cover shocks" but they didn't offer any comment. They know I have a snow plow - hard on front suspension to say the least - no problems.

Had a transmission replaced in our JLU under warranty - the power steps and wiring had to be in the way since they had to pretty much gut a lot of the vehicle to swap out a 4xe transmission - everything came back operational, not any added charges for working around the extra wiring harnesses or anything being in the way. (and no leaks!!!!!)

If you change batteries and use a battery "at least as good as" the originals (LOL - not hard to do even at Walmart) and you have a charging system issue, unless they find you blew the high current fuse or made some other mistake that can be directly attributed to you, then if the alternator quits next week, they can't refuse to deal with it under warranty. THere's literally a law about that. Lifts are fine - regearing is fine. Talked to a shop's accessories guy about that as well. (non-MOPAR parts won't be covered, but the rest of the Jeep would be).
I can add certain air intakes, such as a snorkel or other accessory, and they can't void the engine warranty unless they can show I screwed up and the failure was a direct result of my changes.

You need to read about some of the mods people have here - and they've encountered no warranty issues.

I've made a few mods to my vehicles over the years - never an issue as long as I "do it right".
I had lifted my 2020 JT with spacers and Rubicon springs and shocks. When it came time for dealing with the wandering common on that year JT - the TSB said "as long as alignment parameters fall within.........." they were to do the work. I had front receiver, different springs and shocks, spacers and other stuff and they performed the steering wander TSB under warranty (twice, actually - the first replacement failed as well). They never balked and they knew I had done a few changes with it.

Years ago - when I had my own shop, I handled warranty issues for 3 different power equipment companies. I know the fine print, and with more recent laws, it's even better for the consumer than it was back then.

Believe what you want, but you are really off base on the warranty aspect of things when it comes to modifications.

 

[Artsifrtsi]

Hope you don't have to open your hood in the middle of a mud hole, or on the side of a cliff.

I did this too. I do plan (when I remember to) wire in a manual switch. In the mean time, it’s part of my trail prep routine… comment the winch while deflators are doing their job. After trail, disconnect winch while compressor is airing up ties…. Too easy!

 

[Morty]

The winch and compressor draw too many amps for the aux switches.

Hi Zach I live in Newman, CA. you are right to much of a draw.

 

[Lost1wing]

Hi Zach I live in Newman, CA. you are right to much of a draw.

That is correct, but any one of the aux switches can be used to control a high amp solenoid for a winch. Or a switch can be installed to remove power when the winch is not in use.

Sponsored