do these trucks break down a lot?

[AyeCantSeeYou]

I have a 2021 (bought new) with over 146K miles on it. No problems with it at all.

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[Bandit’s Lair]

I AM however having 2 small stumbles at 2200 and 2800 rpm under very light throttle input (around 17inHG) in third gear, if anyone can offer insight before dealing with more dealer drama under warranty?

When you say stumble, is it like basically a flat spot in the power curve? I get something like that from a stop sometimes. Like I’m missing one of the big 3 (air/fuel/spark) for a second or even less than a second. Step on the gas and there’s a noticeable power absence about 1/2 way through the turn. Haven’t paid attention to the RPM range but I’ll note it next time. It’s not showing any codes on my cheap adz scan tool but it is annoying.

 

[tysongladiator]

Just as much as any other man made automobile on the market.

 

[Sandman 4x4]

I bought my mojave on 22nd of April. took it back 23rd. havnt seen it since. I took it back to address some sort of fluid leak. I thought it was from transfer case. I just called to ask about eta and was told "next friday, he Ok'd the repair of some other things. so that when I got it back everything would be great" ...what that means or what that is I dont know. I asked for detailed receipt when its done for my records. im not paying a dime for the work but I still need to know what was done.

ive gone from angry to wondering if this is a start of a nightmare i will want out of pretty quickly. I ordered some wheels yesterday. I think I am going to cancel that.

is this a regular thing? something breaks and it takes weeks or months to fix?

I would look into an exchange for another. To be without the new vehicle from the DAY AFTER? The reason why they don’t release it is they refuse to end up with a lemon law issue, that is if you bought it new. Good luck! I would demand they send it to another dealer! I would be raising hill to have them get on it, or exchange it.

 

[CliffordTheBigRedJeep]

I love my Jeep but Consumer reports rates manufacturers and Jeep is basically at the bottom for reliability. My current Jeep has been better than some but definitely resembles that. It's our 3rd Jeep and they have all been dramatically less reliable than our other cars but make up for it in enjoyment and capability. It took some time to find the right dealer but they seem to get parts much faster and care. This is our 5th Jeep dealer across 2 states and the only one worth the visit so far.

 

[BearFootSam]

60k on my 22’ and the only issues of any sort have been aux battery related. If it’s odd codes and or strange symptoms like intermittent no start or radio gremlins then replace the auxiliary. It's easiest from the top IMO, remove main batt, fuse box (unclog harnesses once unbolted.

 

[Rusty PW]

In the diesel section. There is one with over 200,000 miles on it. The only problem was the oil cooler failed. Still going strong.

 

[Dilly’S Willy]

When you say stumble, is it like basically a flat spot in the power curve? I get something like that from a stop sometimes. Like I’m missing one of the big 3 (air/fuel/spark) for a second or even less than a second. Step on the gas and there’s a noticeable power absence about 1/2 way through the turn. Haven’t paid attention to the RPM range but I’ll note it next time. It’s not showing any codes on my cheap adz scan tool but it is annoying.

It's like hitting a wall then back to normal. Complete loss of combustion for a split second. Common with bad MAF, but it's only got 48k miles on it. My 2002 wrx MAF had 170k+ before it started stuttering.

MAF cleaner is a scam, since all MAF sensors in the last 20 years use the "hot wire" method which literally burns off dirt, and watches resistance to determine airflow. If I had higher miles, maybe.


Any other suggestions common to Jeep?

 

[Bandit’s Lair]

Yep. That’s what mine does as well. It’s not a huge concern yet and since I’m not getting codes I just keep myself aware that it’s doing it. I may look into the MAF thing and see if it looks cooked or not.

 

[moparnut72]

I had a Chrysler Sebring that was doing the same thing. It only happened rarely but one time on a business trip it stalled in the middle of an intersection. I had enough and took it to a nearby Dodge dealer the next morning. The tech hooked it up to his diagnostic unit. He said it stalled last night at 8:20? Yup. He said MAF which he replaced, never had another lick of trouble. It was very intermittent and did it for several months. Have that checked.
kk

 

[gentlejax]

its about to be start of 3rd week of ownership but negative days owning it and having it in possession .

yes they gave me a loaner. yes I wonder if I had a valid option to cancel the deal that was probably killed when they took the car back 2 weeks ago.

there are fixing some things but I wont know what until I get it back. I am not paying for it at all so all I can do is wait and yes I understand they didnt have to fix any of it. I insisted. now more than I expected is being done. what, I dont know?

 

[Maximus Gladius]

Yep. That’s what mine does as well. It’s not a huge concern yet and since I’m not getting codes I just keep myself aware that it’s doing it. I may look into the MAF thing and see if it looks cooked or not.

@Dilly’S Willy We don’t have a MAF sensor. That sensor we think is the MAF is a temp sensor. I’ve also experienced the “stumble” or a micro second bump or stall in acceleration at around 20-30 and I’ll throw my guess as it’s the gas or octane used.

I’ve thrown in some methanol hydrate to remove possible water/moisture in there and have not experienced that symptom for a couple weeks now.

 

[Dilly’S Willy]

@Dilly’S Willy We don’t have a MAF sensor. That sensor we think is the MAF is a temp sensor. I’ve also experienced the “stumble” or a micro second bump or stall in acceleration at around 20-30 and I’ll throw my guess as it’s the gas or octane used.

I’ve thrown in some methanol hydrate to remove possible water/moisture in there and have not experienced that symptom for a couple weeks now.

I've been getting gas from different places to test that theory, no luck...including different octane ratings. It's actually getting worse, or maybe it just gets worse with lesser throttle input than I initially thought.

Time to check filters, pending codes, and live data. Any recommendations for viewing (possibly recording) live data? The cheaper the better currently, Win10 PC/iOS devices only. Not looking to go buy an android device with a good set of hardware for hundreds either.

Don't have a scan tool currently, and they're getting way too expensive for the one(s) I WOULD get that do everything needed to test everything properly.

 

[zxd9]

93k and only issues were camshaft related and leaking axle seal. Both under warranty. Camshaft was NOT a minor repair. Took several trips to dealer over several months to get it under control.

 

[Maximus Gladius]

I've been getting gas from different places to test that theory, no luck...including different octane ratings. It's actually getting worse, or maybe it just gets worse with lesser throttle input than I initially thought.

Time to check filters, pending codes, and live data. Any recommendations for viewing (possibly recording) live data? The cheaper the better currently, Win10 PC/iOS devices only. Not looking to go buy an android device with a good set of hardware for hundreds either.

Don't have a scan tool currently, and they're getting way too expensive for the one(s) I WOULD get that do everything needed to test everything properly.

A good scan tool is priceless when it can tell you what’s going on. I’ve had cheap ones in the past… You may have heard the saying, ‘you’re too poor to buy cheap’. Buy once, cry once. JSCAN is one that’s discussed here that can run live data. I have the MUCAR CDE900 pro (Android) that runs all relearns, recalibrations and resets etc but, there’s that initial cost for everything including licensing for full diagnostic FCA access. Some have said JSCAN lets you have that access too without licensing,…so there’s that.

I would replace your MAP sensor. Super easy to get at as it’s up top on the rear side of the intake manifold. That regulates your fuel injectors and timing and if you do a two minute research on what the MAP sensor does and what happens when it fails,…sounds like this could be it for you. But you need to be able to clear codes and my opinion would be to reset the ECM if you do replace the sensor.

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