Does it make sense buying a Mojave?

[ShadowsPapa]

All anyone can do is advise based on their preferences, and based on purpose.
Choice is yours - but base it on YOUR personal plans and personal use.
Whatever anyone here owns now is obviously the right choice - just ask 'em! LOL - no one is going to say otherwise. What they own is always going to be the best.

Stand back and look at it all with a very disconnected point of view - leave all prejudices and emotion out of it when choosing - there's plenty of time and space for that later after you make the choice that's right for YOU.

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[bleda2002]

You can turn either one in to the other with enough money so it really doesn't matter if you are willing to spend enough. The cheapest way (excluding a sport build) will be a Rubicon that you just lift and regear for the 39s. I have 39s, to fit them swaybar unlocked and flexed you need at least 3-3.5 inches of lift upfront, chopped fenders, and 3ish inches of bump stop. For non-unlocked you can get away with a lot less.

 

[JamesWyatt]

To add to what's already been said:

Washboard roads:

• Mojave – drive at any speed with impunity
• Rubicon – fillings in your teeth will be rattled out

Rocks/ruts too big to drive fast over:

• Mojave – add disconnects unless you want your head hitting the side and front of the cab (same as Sport or any other model w/out disconnects)
• Rubicon – smooth when disconnected

E-rated tires

• Mojave – unfazed on or off road + can still do washboard roads at highway PSI + reduces steering wanter at interstate speeds
• Rubicon – uncomfortable on road with the stock suspension

With the Mojave, I recommend just throwing on 35" E-rated tires and call it a day. The E-rating will help with minor added weight like a bed cap and some gear.

Anything beyond that like wanting to build a full expedition rig, just gut the suspension and sell the shocks.

 

[kevman65]

It doesn't make any sense to buy a JL or JT and pour the money into them, but we do.

Buy what you want AND can afford and do with it as you please.

 

[DarthAWM]

To add to what's already been said:

Washboard roads:

• Mojave – drive at any speed with impunity
• Rubicon – fillings in your teeth will be rattled out

Rocks/ruts too big to drive fast over:

• Mojave – add disconnects unless you want your head hitting the side and front of the cab (same as Sport or any other model w/out disconnects)
• Rubicon – smooth when disconnected

E-rated tires

• Mojave – unfazed on or off road + can still do washboard roads at highway PSI + reduces steering wanter at interstate speeds
• Rubicon – uncomfortable on road with the stock suspension

With the Mojave, I recommend just throwing on 35" E-rated tires and call it a day. The E-rating will help with minor added weight like a bed cap and some gear.

Anything beyond that like wanting to build a full expedition rig, just gut the suspension and sell the shocks.

However op stated he is throwing the shocks and tires o the scrap pile or FB marketplace and getting a lift and 38/39s

 

[crmarczak]

I think I'll stick with Mojave for the livability factor with 35s or 37s. And in time do a full rebuild for something more intense.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

With the Mojave, I recommend just throwing on 35" E-rated tires and call it a day. The E-rating will help with minor added weight like a bed cap and some gear.

I've never had to worry abut "E-rated tires". Why? Because all other ratings more than handle the weight. In fact, you can't possibly over-load the stock tires any level JT comes with without totally blowing away all numbers and abusing the truck. It's not capable of the amount of weight in the back that would cause trouble for the stock tires.
E is just too damned stiff for street/road use and very unnecessary.
I didn't even go with D. I tow 5,000 pounds, 500 pound tongue weight and loaded down with cooler, camping gear ad so on - and my truck itself is heavy with the accessories. I run the proper inflation for the given load.
The only truck I've had that may have required E rated tires is the F250 I had - and I could haul over a ton in the back of it and not force it to break a sweat.

I have yet to see anyone with a JT that did NOT do heavy off-roading that needed such heavy tires.
I certainly don't, and never will.

I run my tires up to 38-40 pounds when the rear is very heavily loaded - there's a reason you have your "normal running PSI" and then the "full load PSI" - do some math and if the max psi is something like 48 - you can go up into the 40s when the truck is heavily loaded and be fine.
The fools, and sometimes I think I should use a worse term, who load up a truck and never adjust inflation - yeah, if you are dumb enough to do it that way, you'd better run heavy tires to cover for your lack of knowing what you are doing while towing or loaded.

My truck would have to weigh over 11,000 pounds to exceed the tire weight rating. Allowing for at least some safety margin, say allowing about 20%, it would still have to exceed 8,800 pounds to exceed the tire ratings. Assuming the truck itself was 6,000 pounds, I'd have to load it up with over 2,800 pounds to even get to 80% of the tire load ratings. Ain't gonna happen.
The stock Overland tires have over 2,500 pound load rating. Take that times 4 and you have over 10,000 pounds. You'll kill the poor truck.

Granted, you want tough sidewalls in rocky areas with sharp rocks and debris and tree trunks and parts- you'll rip standard sidewalls to shreds. Tough sidewalls are necessary for adventures where things tend to poke into tires from any angle - or for those who need to really air down, then you rely on tough sidewalls- but for those who don't get into those spots, E is over-kill, IMO.
Not needed for towing or hauling loads.
Needed for rough off-roading or where airing down and riding just on the sidewall flex is needed.

 

[WILDHOBO]

If you go rubicon, you won’t get the cast iron knuckles or reinforced frame unless you get a diesel. If you want to rock crawl, a Rubicon might be your better bet, but if you want to run high speeds in the desert, consider the following:

Look at things like the AEV spacer lift, under $1,000, you might be able to squeeze a 38 in there if not a 37 and keep those fancy stock shocks in place doing their job. An auto lynx also takes care of the disconnected sway bar aspect, about $450. I’ve never needed the front locker, if you’re worried about it an Aussie or lunchbox locker is like $420.00. I really looked into a Mojave before deciding on my build, but it really comes down to your use case and what you’ll want to do with it. I wanted a diesel, so Rubicon it was.

What I’m saying is, before considering regearing and what not, you can have a 37 maybe 38 ready Rubiconish Mojave for like $2,000ish.

The knuckles are an easy get. I actually ordered the steel knuckles today. The only thing not Mohave will be the reinforced frame for jumping. I have no intention to jump it. I’d say either start sport or rubicon. The deciding factor for me would be the transfer case. If you want factory 4:1 low range, get a ruby. If you don’t care, or would consider an atlas, start with an overland so you get the interior trim stuff, and go nuts.

 

[WILDHOBO]

To add to what's already been said:

Washboard roads:

• Mojave – drive at any speed with impunity
• Rubicon – fillings in your teeth will be rattled out

Rocks/ruts too big to drive fast over:

• Mojave – add disconnects unless you want your head hitting the side and front of the cab (same as Sport or any other model w/out disconnects)
• Rubicon – smooth when disconnected

E-rated tires

• Mojave – unfazed on or off road + can still do washboard roads at highway PSI + reduces steering wanter at interstate speeds
• Rubicon – uncomfortable on road with the stock suspension

With the Mojave, I recommend just throwing on 35" E-rated tires and call it a day. The E-rating will help with minor added weight like a bed cap and some gear.

Anything beyond that like wanting to build a full expedition rig, just gut the suspension and sell the shocks.

My D rated tires work great. And I can drive at speed offroad just like a Mohave can. It’s all about the shocks. If the op is lifting 3.5”, spacers won’t do them any favors, and the Mohave shocks will be pulled off anyway.

 

[JamesWyatt]

I've never had to worry abut "E-rated tires". Why? Because all other ratings more than handle the weight. In fact, you can't possibly over-load the stock tires any level JT comes with without totally blowing away all numbers and abusing the truck. It's not capable of the amount of weight in the back that would cause trouble for the stock tires.
E is just too damned stiff for street/road use and very unnecessary.
I didn't even go with D. I tow 5,000 pounds, 500 pound tongue weight and loaded down with cooler, camping gear ad so on - and my truck itself is heavy with the accessories. I run the proper inflation for the given load.
The only truck I've had that may have required E rated tires is the F250 I had - and I could haul over a ton in the back of it and not force it to break a sweat.

I have yet to see anyone with a JT that did NOT do heavy off-roading that needed such heavy tires.
I certainly don't, and never will.

I run my tires up to 38-40 pounds when the rear is very heavily loaded - there's a reason you have your "normal running PSI" and then the "full load PSI" - do some math and if the max psi is something like 48 - you can go up into the 40s when the truck is heavily loaded and be fine.
The fools, and sometimes I think I should use a worse term, who load up a truck and never adjust inflation - yeah, if you are dumb enough to do it that way, you'd better run heavy tires to cover for your lack of knowing what you are doing while towing or loaded.

My truck would have to weigh over 11,000 pounds to exceed the tire weight rating. Allowing for at least some safety margin, say allowing about 20%, it would still have to exceed 8,800 pounds to exceed the tire ratings. Assuming the truck itself was 6,000 pounds, I'd have to load it up with over 2,800 pounds to even get to 80% of the tire load ratings. Ain't gonna happen.
The stock Overland tires have over 2,500 pound load rating. Take that times 4 and you have over 10,000 pounds. You'll kill the poor truck.

Granted, you want tough sidewalls in rocky areas with sharp rocks and debris and tree trunks and parts- you'll rip standard sidewalls to shreds. Tough sidewalls are necessary for adventures where things tend to poke into tires from any angle - or for those who need to really air down, then you rely on tough sidewalls- but for those who don't get into those spots, E is over-kill, IMO.
Not needed for towing or hauling loads.
Needed for rough off-roading or where airing down and riding just on the sidewall flex is needed.

Points taken.

I chose E because:

• I didn't want the soft cheese wheel look of the C-rated BFG KO2 315s that I previously had on my JL Willys XR.
• As you mentioned, I like the added insurance against sidewall puncture since I most often travel alone.
• I like how they track on the interstate on the Mojave.
• Might be easier to find in stock when traveling should I have an unrepairable puncture.

My D rated tires work great. And I can drive at speed offroad just like a Mohave can. It’s all about the shocks. If the op is lifting 3.5”, spacers won’t do them any favors, and the Mohave shocks will be pulled off anyway.

True. That's why I:

• Said Rubicon + E-rated will beat you up with the stock suspension
• Advised the OP to just throw E-rated 35s on a Mojave and call it a day.
• Advised if they want to ignore my advice and go larger than 35, then gut the suspension regardless of the model.

I think we're on the same page.

 

[WILDHOBO]

Points taken.

I chose E because:

• I didn't want the soft cheese wheel look of the C-rated BFG KO2 315s that I previously had on my JL Willys XR.
• As you mentioned, I like the added insurance against sidewall puncture since I most often travel alone.
• I like how they track on the interstate on the Mojave.
• Might be easier to find in stock when traveling should I have an unrepairable puncture.

True. That's why I:

• Said Rubicon + E-rated will beat you up with the stock suspension
• Advised the OP to just throw E-rated 35s on a Mojave and call it a day.
• Advised if they want to ignore my advice and go larger than 35, then gut the suspension regardless of the model.

I think we're on the same page.

Sounds like it. I think good quality D like Mickey Thomson at’s are a nice compromise. Super durable, it not harsh on the road whatsoever.

 

[Zachanadandy]

My D rated tires work great. And I can drive at speed offroad just like a Mohave can. It’s all about the shocks. If the op is lifting 3.5”, spacers won’t do them any favors, and the Mohave shocks will be pulled off anyway.

Not true, metalcloak sells their 3.5" mojave specific kit with shock spacers in order to retain the factory shocks. You still get all the benefits of their kit, beefy adjustable arms with high misalignment bushings, adjustable track bars, proper bumpstops for 38s, long free length springs for retention at full droop, etc. Thanks to the extensions and bump stops you still retain the amazing shocks in their proper ride zone, full use of the hydraulic bump stops, and you can use the full stroke of the shocks. Sure you are giving up some downtravel vs the rocksport shocks many run with that kit, but especially in a high speed rig I'll trade articulation for way better dampening. We ran the rocksports on our 2019 Rubicon, and as a budget friendly long travel shock they are amazing especially in the rocks. The 1st time I hit a whoop at speed in the desert and the jeep slammed down on all 4 bumpstops was the last. Ordered fox 2.0s immediately. Much better dampening at speed, but not even close to the mojave 2.5s. Yes you can get fox 2.5 dsc elites (which still don't have internal bypasses) for $3k but that's a hell of an added cost. In my experience the mojave shocks are the only factory shocks worth retaining, but unless you're stepping up to high dollar race shocks they are 100% worth retaining. For rock crawling dampening doesn't matter and you can run the longest stroke budget shock you can find.

 

[whiteglad]

I find that the 255-80-17E Falkens ride as nicely as the 285-70-17C stock Falkens, both at 40 psi.

 

[Zachanadandy]

I find that the 255-80-17E Falkens ride as nicely as the 285-70-17C stock Falkens, both at 40 psi.

Nothing rides nicely at 40psi. I prefer 30 tops.

 

[DarthAWM]

Nothing rides nicely at 40psi. I prefer 30 tops.

You should try 80psi, like in my 3500, now that was fun.

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