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DPF Failure @ 27k Miles

MaximusTX

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What size tires? Sport or smaller? I was running stock rubi 33s. I would assume larger the tire, higher the RPM and thus more burn off.

I thought about forced regens, but from what I have researched, you would want to do an oil change after. I would hate to need a forced regen more often than my oil change schedule creating the need for an expensive maintenance item more often than needed.
I am running 42's with 4.88 gears. I did an oil change before I left on the trip and didn't know anything about doing an oil change after a forced regen so it didn't happen. I only just changed the oil on it when I hit the 7500 mile mark.
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kb5zcr

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All, there is some bad info sneeking into this thread (I.e. need to change oil after a regen).

Your ecodiesel will regen approx every 700 miles regardless of soot levels. You will NOT see any indication of this on your dash with the stock setup.

Your ecodiesel will also regen if the soot level reaches 80% even if its only been 100 miles since it did a "every 700 mile regen". You will also NOT see any indication of this on your dash.

If you drive short "around town" trips, you will have more of these "at 80%" regens".
If you interrupt a regen (easy to do since you don't know they are happening) it will try and regen next time the engine perimeters are present (oil temp, ect). If this happens enough times without a successful regen then you may get a "Keep driving" message on your dash.

You will only know any of this is happening if you have a way to monitor the status (Scanguage, iDash, ect)

My opinion is that since regens are happening pretty regularly, no need to change the oil after a regen.

My experience is that my soot level goes up about 5% every time I go to the grocery store, Walmart, Harbor Freight, Lowes, restaurant, ect. I monitor the soot levels so when I reach the mid 70% I plan on it doing a regen the next time I get it up to temp and plan for this.
It will regen even driving around town at lower speeds (I do try and keep the rpm's up when its happening).

A forced regen is the same as the other regens I described above except that the user is forcing the computer to regen regardless of soot load or miles since last regen. I don't believe this requires us have to change the oil sooner, since the regens are the same. I've done forced regens with the AlphaObd app on my jeep.

Now, why the OP had an issue while out on a long trip I have no idea and it does seem a little weird. I also don't think the dealer knows what he is talking about when he says the DPF is cracked unless it is the bracket weld crack that HAS happened a few times on here and can be seen from outside the DPF (but this wouldn't explain the message the driver saw on his dash). I imagine that the dealers test computer told them "faulty DPF" so that's what they are going with.

I hope they get it all sorted for you and you don't have additional issues.

Anyway, I know this is a long message but my main point was that we don't need to begin spreading the rumor that we need to change oil after regen.
 
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UTDieselRubi

UTDieselRubi

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Anyway, I know this is a long message but my main point was that we don't need to begin spreading the rumor that we need to change oil after regen.
The clarification here is not that it needs an oil change after standard passive or active regens, but rather after a Forced Regen/Parked Regen/Dealer regen is initiated via computer control. The consensus behind this is due to the drastically increased fuel injection/contamination required to heat the DPF to required temps. Now I am no expert, that's just what all the research says.
 

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The clarification here is not that it needs an oil change after standard passive or active regens, but rather after a Forced Regen/Parked Regen/Dealer regen is initiated via computer control. The consensus behind this is due to the drastically increased fuel injection/contamination required to heat the DPF to required temps. Now I am no expert, that's just what all the research says.
internet experts over thinking things.
 

kb5zcr

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The clarification here is not that it needs an oil change after standard passive or active regens, but rather after a Forced Regen/Parked Regen/Dealer regen is initiated via computer control. The consensus behind this is due to the drastically increased fuel injection/contamination required to heat the DPF to required temps. Now I am no expert, that's just what all the research says.
A forced regen won't happen until everything is up to temp anyway, the scan tool to force a regen even says this on the screen "regen will begin once engine perimeters are met". The dealer or shop will let the vehicle sit and idle for 30 min or so to get it up to temp before starting a forced regen. I've done forced regens on my jeep when I first got my scan tool just to make sure it would do it.
I don't think that "forced regens" are any different than other active regens. I don't think that more fuel is injected with a forced regen VS other active regens. I don't know how anyone would positively know this either way.
 

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Now, why the OP had an issue while out on a long trip I have no idea and it does seem a little weird.
We've had this issue reported a few times on the Ram forum. If I remember correctly, it was a sensor not working properly in both cases. I do a lot of long-distance towing, so I might go back and find out which sensor was the culprit. That might be a good part to carry with me when traveling. I'd hate for this to happen and find out that the part is on nationwide backorder.
 

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The clarification here is not that it needs an oil change after standard passive or active regens, but rather after a Forced Regen/Parked Regen/Dealer regen is initiated via computer control. The consensus behind this is due to the drastically increased fuel injection/contamination required to heat the DPF to required temps. Now I am no expert, that's just what all the research says.
Passive regen is when the motor is building enough heat to cook the soot in the DPF with no outside help. Usually higher speeds, towing, climbing long grades, etc.
Active regen is when the computer injects diesel into the system. Once the diesel mixes in with the soot in the DPF it burns it off. This is done with no input from the driver/mechanic.
Forced regen is the same as an active regen, except driver/mechanic uses a programer/computer to initiate the regen. Again diesel is injected and mixes with the soot to burn of the soot.

I've been to several classes for Ford and Cummins motors as well as different equipment manufacturers and none of them have ever said you need to change oil after a regen of any kind, forced or active.
 

RudeJeepin

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We've had this issue reported a few times on the Ram forum. If I remember correctly, it was a sensor not working properly in both cases. I do a lot of long-distance towing, so I might go back and find out which sensor was the culprit. That might be a good part to carry with me when traveling. I'd hate for this to happen and find out that the part is on nationwide backorder.
Please pass that info along to the rest of us.
Also, since you have the most experience with the EcoDiesel, do you know where the diesel is injected during regen? Is it in the exhaust stream, or is it in the cylinder during the exhaust stroke?
 

kb5zcr

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Please pass that info along to the rest of us.
Also, since you have the most experience with the EcoDiesel, do you know where the diesel is injected during regen? Is it in the exhaust stream, or is it in the cylinder during the exhaust stroke?
I've tried researching this in the past and I'm fairly certain that fuel is injected during the exhaust stroke during regen (and may have actually read that somewhere). There is no additional injector in the exhaust system per the parts diagrams I've looked at.
 

biodiesel

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do you know where the diesel is injected during regen? Is it in the exhaust stream, or is it in the cylinder during the exhaust stroke?
The EcoDiesel uses in-cylinder post injection on the exhaust stroke. There isn't a downstream injection.
 

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RudeJeepin

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The EcoDiesel uses in-cylinder post injection on the exhaust stroke. There isn't a downstream injection.
That was what I was kinda thinking. Other than a quick Google search, that showed up nothing conclusive, I wasn't positive.
Wish it was down stream injection though.
 
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UTDieselRubi

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ok, so after talking with the dealer a third time, they admitted they didn't really know the cause of my failure. They simply read the codes as DPF failed. I think they were just spitting out words the first time since there is no "crack" internal. So.. this could be the sensor that Biodiesel mentioned, but this is really early miles so maybe it was a bad batch sensor. OR the issue is something else and the dealer isn't going to investigate the real cause of the failure. I don't know if the DPF is actually full at this point, or if it was just reading full and messing with the computers, or if my truck wasn't attempting any regens while driving. Sort of irritating not to know. But I guess I'll keep doing what I'm doing and see how long the second DPF lasts.
 

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Keep an eye on your fuel mileage.

Father in law has dpf issues on a Dodge Cummins. Dpf was replaced under warranty. He then traded it in. 2 weeks later the couple that bought it had it back in the shop. Dpf was plugged again. This time around they found it was over fueling. Fixed the problem and I believe it's been fine since.

New owners met at father in laws house to buy his fith wheel hitch and get a fifth wheel style tailgate. That's how I know the story. It was about 2 months later when they showed up to get the stuff.
 
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UTDieselRubi

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Keep an eye on your fuel mileage.

Father in law has dpf issues on a Dodge Cummins. Dpf was replaced under warranty. He then traded it in. 2 weeks later the couple that bought it had it back in the shop. Dpf was plugged again. This time around they found it was over fueling. Fixed the problem and I believe it's been fine since.

New owners met at father in laws house to buy his fith wheel hitch and get a fifth wheel style tailgate. That's how I know the story. It was about 2 months later when they showed up to get the stuff.
Hmm, did he by chance have the code P026D? This could be related, through out ownership, my truck has thrown P026D about every 5K. This is a fuel code that it seems many diesel JTs get. It would always self clear, but I took it to a different dealer to get that issue fixed a while back and they said it was a bad sensor, which necer got fixed because the sensor has been on back order for a long time. Now, they may not be related but now I wonder. From what I have read on the P026D, not many find a reliable source of the issue, but many get it. Anyone here have any insight on that? Could that contribute to a DPF failure?
 

biodiesel

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That was what I was kinda thinking. Other than a quick Google search, that showed up nothing conclusive, I wasn't positive.
Wish it was down stream injection though.
I was glad to see that Ram Cummins went to the downstream 7th injector in the exhaust. Now Ram can rely more on after treatment than EGR. It's a more reliable and efficient system.

The 2020 - 2023 EcoDiesel emissions system is fairly reliable, but a downstream fuel injection would have been the most ideal.
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