Dual Battery / Solar - Feedback or Input needed...

[Backcountry ADV]

I'm planning the next phase of the Gladiator Build and seeking input for a dual battery/solar set up. I'm considering the 100Ah 12V Heated LiFePO4 Deep Cycle Battery by Battle Born Batteries. Where I need input is on the inverter, Solar Integration, Area Lighting Integration, & adding a factory style bed plug kit.

My questions specifically:
1. If I add the factory MOPAR Bed Plug kit (approx $300 bucks) is it constant power on or could it be tied into my dual (secondary) battery only? Isolator? What's needed? **I want it to be constant power but NOT off my primary battery to start the Jeep.
2. Is there anything wrong in my theory to run the area lighting (Baja Designs Rock Lights and a pair or two of S2's) off my secondary battery only? Again, I don't want anything that could potentially run down the primary and cause starting issues. - YES I Know Jeep has a 2nd , smaller, auxiliary battery. I replaced it and the primary battery recently.
3. I'm considering RedArc for the Invertor, Isolator, and anything else required to optimize the system. I've also heard that Battle Born - Pheonix is a viable solution and has similar components. ANY FEEDBACK from which one is better?
4. For those running a dual system with optimized solar, what output from the panels are you planning around to run a fridge, accessory lights, etc on your dual battery set ups? Also is there a way to tie in a portable panel like the IceCo 80W Folding one to a fixed panel like the RedArc or similar 200w panel I plan to mount to my 23Zero Armadillo A2??

Here's a couple pics of the rig. Thanks in advance for input/suggestions!

Sponsored

 

[Atticus]

I put my solar on a isolated system so i didnt have to worry about aux/primary battery drain or damage
It has 2 100ah batteries with 12v outlets
Adding 2000 watt inverter for a/c next
Dealer scared me with warranty questions (spikes, back feed, over amperage)

 

[MSFTMatt]

On my last truck, and I’ll be copying it on my JT, was this…100AH lipo in bed of truck, Redarc 1250bcdc solar charger, 200w of solar on roof rack, Amazon switches/usb/12v like this.

Kohree 4 Gang Marine Boat Rocker... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07X2WSRPD?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I ran lightbar/ditch lights off starter battery as I knew I wouldn’t be using those unless I was driving. Everything else, fridge, scene lighting, ham radio, Amazon 4 gang switches, ran off six battery in bed. The Redarc is awesome because when you wire it correctly it will charge your aux battery off your alternator when truck is on and when you shut down it automatically switches to solar to charge your six battery. Hope this helps.

 

[Backcountry ADV]

On my last truck, and I’ll be copying it on my JT, was this…100AH lipo in bed of truck, Redarc 1250bcdc solar charger, 200w of solar on roof rack, Amazon switches/usb/12v like this.

Kohree 4 Gang Marine Boat Rocker... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07X2WSRPD?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I ran lightbar/ditch lights off starter battery as I knew I wouldn’t be using those unless I was driving. Everything else, fridge, scene lighting, ham radio, Amazon 4 gang switches, ran off six battery in bed. The Redarc is awesome because when you wire it correctly it will charge your aux battery off your alternator when truck is on and when you shut down it automatically switches to solar to charge your six battery. Hope this helps.

Matt,

thanks for the input. That's pretty close to what I envisioned. Something to run the accessories while camped/parked but also keep the fridge or whatever running while driving. That's why I'm seeking a dedicated power outlet/supply. If you have any pics of your old set up I'd love to see how you mounted the switch panel. With the JCR Bed Molle Panels installed I'm trying to keep it clean and organized. I believe the panels have a small cutout for where the factory outlet goes. Hopefully I can modify or utilize that area for a switch panel like yours.

 

[Backcountry ADV]

I put my solar on a isolated system so i didnt have to worry about aux/primary battery drain or damage
It has 2 100ah batteries with 12v outlets
Adding 2000 watt inverter for a/c next
Dealer scared me with warranty questions (spikes, back feed, over amperage)

Scott,

thanks for the reply. What outlets (12V) did you utilize? Any pics of the set up? I'm thinking something like the one Matt used would suffice but I'd like a wall plug style outlet as well for the fridge better than utilizing the cigarette style plug in. Here's another one I found that has a voltage meter which would be ideal.

 

[MSFTMatt]

I had the DECKED drawers in my old truck and cut out a space in the front ammo can place. I plan on removing the panel where the factory 12v outlet goes and enlarging it a bit to accommodate the switches. Looking at the switch you’re considering I just realized that I ordered the one without the volt meter??‍ so thanks for inadvertently pointing out my error!

 

[Atticus]

Added battery monitoring so I would know charge status and that panel was workin

 

[Jaxmax]

Usually your solar controller/ manager will give a digital display of volts, amps and battery percent of charge , why add another volt meter at switch panel? ARB makes a very nice fridge cord that fits into their screw in connector which also can adapt to a standard cigarette type power outlet. Other fridges can use the same as ARB , no chance of 12VDC plug falling out or getting dirt in it. I’m going much smaller and simpler setup to power my fridge and other items.
Nice truck, real nice….Jack

 

[JeepOfTheseus]

1. If I add the factory MOPAR Bed Plug kit (approx $300 bucks) is it constant power on or could it be tied into my dual (secondary) battery only? Isolator? What's needed? **I want it to be constant power but NOT off my primary battery to start the Jeep.

To answer this question directly: that plug/switch goes through the electronics system, similar to the aux switches. In fact, it has to be enabled via something like Tazer. Other than an OEM outlet/panel, there's no benefit to tapping into that wiring for this use-case.

 

[Mr._Bill]

@AllMoparParts.com sells the kit for $300 that will add the factory 120v outlet to the bed. For this kit to work, you need to have the factory inverter and console outlet already installed. The factory inverter is only 400 watts total, shared between the two outlets. It only works with the engine running.

You can buy the factory outlet for the bed, and the wire harness that connects to it, and then wire that to a separate inverter running off the accessory (third) battery that you install.

Due to the efficiency losses from converting between 12v DC and 120v AC, it is best to get devices that run from the 12v provided by the battery system.

 

[smlobx]

Scott,

thanks for the reply. What outlets (12V) did you utilize? Any pics of the set up? I'm thinking something like the one Matt used would suffice but I'd like a wall plug style outlet as well for the fridge better than utilizing the cigarette style plug in. Here's another one I found that has a voltage meter which would be ideal.

I have a fully built out rig and here’s what I did.

Im using the Redarc BCDC 1240 system powering a 100AH BattleBorn battery with a switch system very similar to what you posted above. When I was wiring up my system I had a few questions as I’m certainly not an electrician and Ryan with Redarc was very helpful in answering my questions. Highly recommend them. One of the advantages of the Redarc system is that when you shut off the trucks engine you automatically isolate the trucks engine from the secondary system and when you’r driving you are charging the secondary battery. Easy peasy! I’ve also wired for a 100AH portable solar blanket to use when we are stationary for multiple days (which is rare for us). We’ve taken the rig on month long trips in 90+ degree daytime temps and it never skipped a beat powering our fridge and charging various devices and lights.

We do not have an inverter and that was a conscious decision to keep everything 12 volt to minimize loss due to voltage drop. In reading the other comments above I would strongly suggest you reconsider if you need an inverter As there is an approximate 10-15% loss of efficiency each way since your fridge is also 12 volt…something to consider.

We are leaving on our longest trip with this truck next week for a 6 week trip through Southern Utah, Nevada, New Mexico and Tejas!

Here’s a picture of the rig loaded and if you want specific pictures of the components now is the time to ask as I just loaded everything up yesterday!

 

[chorky]

Ok before you go too far and buy a bunch of things, sit down with paper and a pen and write out what you actually want to have for your setup. I say this on every thread I see - do an energy audit. This is so important to better understand what kind of power capabilities you actually need. Nothing is worse than being grossly over or under built.

Ok, that out of the way, I second what smlobx said here

We do not have an inverter and that was a conscious decision to keep everything 12 volt to minimize loss due to voltage drop. In reading the other comments above I would strongly suggest you reconsider if you need an inverter As there is an approximate 10-15% loss of efficiency each way since your fridge is also 12 volt…something to consider.

Assuming you want to have the battery mounted in the bed, I would just run 4 ga cable to the bed like what I did - both positive and negative. This way, you have modular ability to utilize a redarc or similar dc/dc charger to power and charge you lithium battery, but you also have up to 100a available via the 4 ga cable to power other things. So here's what you can do. From that cable, tie it into a bus bar mounted in the bed somewhere on your molle panels. That buss bar can be the central 'power' hub for attaching things like your dc/dc charger which then charges the battery, or you can tie a compressor into that power hub (strongly advisable to run the compressor off of the main vehicle power system and only when the vehicle is on, the draw too much power to run off of a lithium battery and risks damage).

My questions specifically:
1. If I add the factory MOPAR Bed Plug kit (approx $300 bucks) is it constant power on or could it be tied into my dual (secondary) battery only? Isolator? What's needed? **I want it to be constant power but NOT off my primary battery to start the Jeep.

What is your reasoning for wanting to do this?? If you need/want an inverter, you can do much better than MOPAR, it is a very low wattage inverter. That being said if you want 1000w+ your looking at really wanting to have a 200a battery system.

2. Is there anything wrong in my theory to run the area lighting (Baja Designs Rock Lights and a pair or two of S2's) off my secondary battery only? Again, I don't want anything that could potentially run down the primary and cause starting issues. - YES I Know Jeep has a 2nd , smaller, auxiliary battery. I replaced it and the primary battery recently.

Nothing wrong with this at all, it is very common and the best method to use. I would go so far as to say SOP is for all non vehicle running things to be ran off of a house battery that is separate from the main vehicle battery. The S2's have a pretty low power draw but you need to make sure you have enough capacity for what you want. With the things you have listed, 100ah should be enough for probably 24 hours of no engine running

3. I'm considering RedArc for the Invertor, Isolator, and anything else required to optimize the system. I've also heard that Battle Born - Pheonix is a viable solution and has similar components. ANY FEEDBACK from which one is better?

You need a DC/DC charger, not an isolator. Lithium batteries cannot be tied directly into the rest of the vehicle charging system. Lithium batteries need a DC/DC charger as they have different charge profiles. Basically a DC/DC charger completely separates the lithium battery from the rest of the vehicle. It is simply a way to take power from your main vehicle battery, when the engine is running, and charge your lithium battery. Then the lithium battery powers all of your 'house' items - fridge, lights, etc....

4. For those running a dual system with optimized solar, what output from the panels are you planning around to run a fridge, accessory lights, etc on your dual battery set ups? Also is there a way to tie in a portable panel like the IceCo 80W Folding one to a fixed panel like the RedArc or similar 200w panel I plan to mount to my 23Zero Armadillo A2??

A 100w panel can output a maximum of 5 amps - in optimum sun conditions. Depending on manufacturer you can get highly variable results here. Lots of people run bluetti, renogy, redarc, victron, etc.. Stick with a 'name' brand. I have been running Zamp solar - which is heavy in the RV market, and have had stellar results. If the only thing you are powering is a fridge and some lights, you could probably be fine with a 100w panel. But it doesn't hurt to have two of those, inevitably you will end up wanting to add more power drawing items over time.

 

[SAReis]

I'm planning the next phase of the Gladiator Build and seeking input for a dual battery/solar set up. I'm considering the 100Ah 12V Heated LiFePO4 Deep Cycle Battery by Battle Born Batteries. Where I need input is on the inverter, Solar Integration, Area Lighting Integration, & adding a factory style bed plug kit.

My questions specifically:
1. If I add the factory MOPAR Bed Plug kit (approx $300 bucks) is it constant power on or could it be tied into my dual (secondary) battery only? Isolator? What's needed? **I want it to be constant power but NOT off my primary battery to start the Jeep.
2. Is there anything wrong in my theory to run the area lighting (Baja Designs Rock Lights and a pair or two of S2's) off my secondary battery only? Again, I don't want anything that could potentially run down the primary and cause starting issues. - YES I Know Jeep has a 2nd , smaller, auxiliary battery. I replaced it and the primary battery recently.
3. I'm considering RedArc for the Invertor, Isolator, and anything else required to optimize the system. I've also heard that Battle Born - Pheonix is a viable solution and has similar components. ANY FEEDBACK from which one is better?
4. For those running a dual system with optimized solar, what output from the panels are you planning around to run a fridge, accessory lights, etc on your dual battery set ups? Also is there a way to tie in a portable panel like the IceCo 80W Folding one to a fixed panel like the RedArc or similar 200w panel I plan to mount to my 23Zero Armadillo A2??

Here's a couple pics of the rig. Thanks in advance for input/suggestions!

I'm planning the next phase of the Gladiator Build and seeking input for a dual battery/solar set up. I'm considering the 100Ah 12V Heated LiFePO4 Deep Cycle Battery by Battle Born Batteries. Where I need input is on the inverter, Solar Integration, Area Lighting Integration, & adding a factory style bed plug kit.

My questions specifically:
1. If I add the factory MOPAR Bed Plug kit (approx $300 bucks) is it constant power on or could it be tied into my dual (secondary) battery only? Isolator? What's needed? **I want it to be constant power but NOT off my primary battery to start the Jeep.
2. Is there anything wrong in my theory to run the area lighting (Baja Designs Rock Lights and a pair or two of S2's) off my secondary battery only? Again, I don't want anything that could potentially run down the primary and cause starting issues. - YES I Know Jeep has a 2nd , smaller, auxiliary battery. I replaced it and the primary battery recently.
3. I'm considering RedArc for the Invertor, Isolator, and anything else required to optimize the system. I've also heard that Battle Born - Pheonix is a viable solution and has similar components. ANY FEEDBACK from which one is better?
4. For those running a dual system with optimized solar, what output from the panels are you planning around to run a fridge, accessory lights, etc on your dual battery set ups? Also is there a way to tie in a portable panel like the IceCo 80W Folding one to a fixed panel like the RedArc or similar 200w panel I plan to mount to my 23Zero Armadillo A2??

Here's a couple pics of the rig. Thanks in advance for input/suggestions!

That is a beauty!

 

[Gee]

My latest power build is my third. My Gladiator/Alucab build has an Ecoflow Powerhub, 4Kwh of batteries and 400w solar plus alternator charging. All of this is a simple plug and play with the Powerhub which is essentially designed for an RV or tiny house. My advice would be to power up as much as you are able. I started with 1000w inverter 100ah battery and quickly ran out of grunt. I’m now powering lights, fridge, cooking using induction hobs x 2 and charging drone, iPads, phones and camera gear with no worries at all. Having great sustainable power brings a huge degree of freedom. I ignored the power source in the bed. Like you I didn’t want to threaten the cranking battery. Also having done 2 DYI builds - which seemed to always need fixing- I’m loving the reliability of a plug and play system that is all perfectly balanced and properly fused between its various pieces. Just my experience for what it’s worth.

 

[Backcountry ADV]

Usually your solar controller/ manager will give a digital display of volts, amps and battery percent of charge , why add another volt meter at switch panel? ARB makes a very nice fridge cord that fits into their screw in connector which also can adapt to a standard cigarette type power outlet. Other fridges can use the same as ARB , no chance of 12VDC plug falling out or getting dirt in it. I’m going much smaller and simpler setup to power my fridge and other items.
Nice truck, real nice….Jack

Thanks Jack! Reason for the 2nd volt meter is the location of the power management. I may have it installed in the cabin and the battery installed in the front of the bed (closest to rear window/cabin) so keep it out of harms way. Hence, having a voltmeter on the switches would be a convenience and more visible.

I know this isn't the simplest solution. I'm trying to plan it for future upgrades/updates and flexibility with a well thought out system for the long haul.

Sponsored