Ecodiesel power derating as temps rise?

[ParatusExpeditions]

Thank you for fishing the post back

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[@californiajeeping]

Thank you for fishing the post back

I have never hit derate. I drive faster than anyone else typically.

I added a poison spyder hood vent which has helped keep heat soak away. When you shut the engine off it cools instead of heating up baking for 20 minutes+.

remove the engine cover all the foam off the engine open your hood vents and also remove the corner cowl blocks and the rear hood cowl seal.

 

[Rusty PW]

I see. Aren’t you worried about water intrusion, rain, wash etc?
No more derating with your setup?

I cut my Rubi hood vents open last summer. Never had any trouble with rain or snow.

 

[steelponycowboy]

I see. Aren’t you worried about water intrusion, rain, wash etc?
No more derating with your setup?

There is a kit to really make the vents functional and keep water off. You can open them up all you want but if the insulation is cut around them then they are in no way functional. Now you will still debate on the steep long climbs but not as bad as before. Made my temps 10 to 15 degrees lower. The way I look at it do it right or not at all.

 

[ParatusExpeditions]

The way I look at it do it right or not at all.

I agree with this, and usually my motto as much as possible. I checked the company you referenced earlier in this thread, and I would not qualify this as done right in my book, especially for this price. They went the cheap way with an FDM 3D-printed part. I can tell this is either PET-G or ABS. Hopefully, this is ABS, which is more temperature resistant than PET-G. But even if they used ABS and not PET-G, the ABS starts softening at around 105C (221F).

Turbochargers and other boosting technologies have risen typical temperatures under the hood from 125 degrees Celsius (257 Fahrenheit) to between 175 and 200 degrees Celsius. Parts under the hood have to endure thousands of hours of exposure to this over their lifetime.

https://www.automotiveworld.com/articles/taking-heat-plastics-hood/

This doesn't look great to me.
I feel like for $200 they could have an aluminum part cut from 1/8th or thinner plate that would not have this potential issue. Or move away from FDM to something else like SLS and support fiberglass-laced nylon for example. Curious to see if yours have any deformation or if somehow now that the heat escapes through the vent, the temperature is not hot enough that they get away with it?

I've seen this thing too, but I am unsure if that's a do-it-right solution as well, looks a bit better thought through, but I doubt they've done air-flow testing & extensive testing like towing to understand if it makes a difference and/or if it helps:
https://totlinnovations.com/jl-h-e-r-o-hood/


Thanks!

 

[Rusty PW]

This is how I did mine.

 

[Sweetums]

I cut my Rubi hood vents open last summer. Never had any trouble with rain or snow.

Those of you who opened your vents - do you park indoors or outside? I have to park outside and worry about debris and water getting into the engine and causing problems.
This is my first summer with the truck; temps up to and over 110 in the day are not uncommon for us, and we are at high altitude. I'm a bit worried about how it will perform, but I don't want to solve one problem by causing another.

 

[rharr]

I park outside, but I am in the desert so not tons of water around here. I also don't park under a tree. It's been 1.5 years and haven't had a problem yet.

People around here have been venting jeep hoods as long as there have been jeeps.

 

[Rusty PW]

I park outside. I'm in the south west corner of PA. Lots of rain and snow.

 

[Sweetums]

Sounds like I have some holes to cut...

 

[ParatusExpeditions]

This scares me, looks like it’s right above the battery and I have bunch of electronic here (SDI stuff, & camper things). Maybe the frogskin thingy could help there. Thanks for the pics

 

[PJZ]

I park outside and live in the Valley - So Cal with pretty serious heat in the summer. This year we had an atypical amount of rain. Zero issues with water or debris. Been about a year that they have been cut open.

 

[steelponycowboy]

I agree with this, and usually my motto as much as possible. I checked the company you referenced earlier in this thread, and I would not qualify this as done right in my book, especially for this price. They went the cheap way with an FDM 3D-printed part. I can tell this is either PET-G or ABS. Hopefully, this is ABS, which is more temperature resistant than PET-G. But even if they used ABS and not PET-G, the ABS starts softening at around 105C (221F).


https://www.automotiveworld.com/articles/taking-heat-plastics-hood/

This doesn't look great to me.
I feel like for $200 they could have an aluminum part cut from 1/8th or thinner plate that would not have this potential issue. Or move away from FDM to something else like SLS and support fiberglass-laced nylon for example. Curious to see if yours have any deformation or if somehow now that the heat escapes through the vent, the temperature is not hot enough that they get away with it?

I've seen this thing too, but I am unsure if that's a do-it-right solution as well, looks a bit better thought through, but I doubt they've done air-flow testing & extensive testing like towing to understand if it makes a difference and/or if it helps:
https://totlinnovations.com/jl-h-e-r-o-hood/


Thanks!

All I can tell you is that the fact that they sold out all their inventory in one day says people don't think the price is too much. I have 7000 hard towing miles on mine towing 3500lb trailer from AZ to the east coast and points in between. No distortion of the plates due to heat,l and my temps have run 10 to 15 degrees less. Nothing scientific bit actual real world experience.

 

[steelponycowboy]

anyone reached out to bullet proof in awhile on radiator progress? Supposedly working on one.

Ok I talked in length with Bullet Proof Diesel last night over the phone. After nearly 2 years of design, development and testing the best solution they could come up with is a secondary cooling system for the oil. With a stock diesel JT towing a 5500lb trailer they were able to go from 45 mph and 63% max engine load up a long, 6% grade 56 mph with 85% engine load. So they were able to increase engine load at derate/defuel 20 points and speed up 11mph. While not what they wanted, it's a viable price point and easy install with real results. They are looking for someone with a JT that tows with a stock factory front bumper to test one out. Send me an email [email protected] if you are interested, tell me about your Jeep and towing and I will connect you with the right person. Now for those of us with after market winch bumpers and a winch, they are going to use my Jeep as a model for a fifferent version. More info to come.

 

[@californiajeeping]

Ok I talked in length with Bullet Proof Diesel last night over the phone. After nearly 2 years of design, development and testing the best solution they could come up with is a secondary cooling system for the oil. With a stock diesel JT towing a 5500lb trailer they were able to go from 45 mph and 63% max engine load up a long, 6% grade 56 mph with 85% engine load. So they were able to increase engine load at derate/defuel 20 points and speed up 11mph. While not what they wanted, it's a viable price point and easy install with real results. They are looking for someone with a JT that tows with a stock factory front bumper to test one out. Send me an email [email protected] if you are interested, tell me about your Jeep and towing and I will connect you with the right person. Now for those of us with after market winch bumpers and a winch, they are going to use my Jeep as a model for a fifferent version. More info to come.

Thats unfortunate. I would like to avoid cycling my oil to a radiator on the front of the vehicle if possible.

I will most likely be looking at the cold case radiator. If we could find a low temp thermostat that would help give more headroom.

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