For those on 35s who have re-geared

[Tufelhundin]

@-miko-

you mine find this read interesting

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/35s-4-56-gears-experience.40038/#post-650777

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[j.o.y.ride]

Do you have an auto or manual? Wrestling with the 4.56 vs. 4.88 debate but with a manual transmission so these real world examples are helpful.

Auto. I was doing 80 today and 6th spins where I would want 8th to be. 8th was like 1900, too low.

 

[Jeeperjamie]

Here's one more video for you, another 4 minutes of I-85 driving in Piedmont- Foothills. Got it up to 85mph for a few. Sorry for it being sideways, not sure what happened there. I'd say 4.10 is good enough but 4.56 would be awesome. I would not go over 4.56 if I was regearing for 35's.

 

[j.o.y.ride]

Since most 35s and 37s aren't really 35 or 37 I used 34.5 and 36.5 to see what would come of the different gears in both, and added stock 3.73 for an idea of what it used to be.

4.88/35 80 @ 2,547 is really getting up there for distance cruising. 4.56 is really a lot better there.

But would 4.56 be too little for 37s if I went there? Well no, at 80 it will turn a nice 2,250 and 70 still maybe hold 8th at 1,969.

37/4.56 is the most stock like rpm ranges for speeds. 35/4.56 is already going to be an improvement on stock as it is.

Seeing this, that I will be spinning rather high in a lot of the driving I do on 4.88, and 4.56 would be totally acceptable with 37 for what I do I will go with the 4.56 now. If down the line in years I go 37 and need more gears I will jump to 5.13. If I never hit the highway I would for sure just go 4.88 or even 5.13 but I spend a LOT of my miles on the highway.

4.56 sounds right.

Gear	Tire Size	Speed	RPM
3.73	31 (stock)	70	1,896
4.56	34.5	70	2,083
4.88	34.5	70	2,229
3.73	31 (stock)	80	2,167
4.56	34.5	80	2,380
4.88	34.5	80	2,547
4.56	36.5	70	1,969
4.88	36.5	70	2,107
4.56	36.5	80	2,250
4.88	36.5	80	2,408

 

[CrazyCooter]

70 @2100 sounds good, better than the charts. Maybe even 4.88 territory then. Assume this is 8th?
View attachment 133373

That chart is for the JK 5 speed auto, but would be similar for the JL/JT in 7th gear.

 

[j.o.y.ride]

That chart is for the JK 5 speed auto, but would be similar for the JL/JT in 7th gear.

Yeah someone pointed that out, I will just remove it

 

[LostWoods]

I am reading this thread because I’m wondering if there are negative side effects going to 315/70R17 with the 4.10 gears but from your comment there doesn’t appear to be any. What tire brand are you running as they are all a bit different in circumference?
Thanks.

BFG KO2’s - make sure to get the load “C” versions, not “E”. Way too stiff, and every shop tries to sell you “E” (more money). As for down-side, you can definitely feel it’s slower from a stop, but recalibration for the bigger tires seemed to adjust the shift points just enough to compensate. Still more than adequate power to tow at hwy speeds even over passes, just a little buzzy keeping the revs up. Also expect to lose about 2-3 MPGs average daily driving, but towing is almost identical. Like everything, it’s a compromise. ?

There's of course going to be some difference but it's a lot less on a Rubicon than a Max Tow... My truck was noticeably more sluggish off the line but the JTR also didn't feel as peppy when I test drove it. It's very drivable and I had no issues pulling a fully loaded 6x12 Uhaul trailer across country with them.

But I'll be the dissenting opinion on the C vs E... they are stiffer but the truck is plenty heavy enough to make them comfortable around 31psi and I have good wear 10k into them. The benefit of the E here is that the C are the OEM Raptor tire and only a 2-ply sidewall - the E load tires have a 3 ply so they're going to be tougher against rocks. Something to consider if you have to deal with that sort of thing.

 

[smlobx]

There's of course going to be some difference but it's a lot less on a Rubicon than a Max Tow... My truck was noticeably more sluggish off the line but the JTR also didn't feel as peppy when I test drove it. It's very drivable and I had no issues pulling a fully loaded 6x12 Uhaul trailer across country with them.

But I'll be the dissenting opinion on the C vs E... they are stiffer but the truck is plenty heavy enough to make them comfortable around 31psi and I have good wear 10k into them. The benefit of the E here is that the C are the OEM Raptor tire and only a 2-ply sidewall - the E load tires have a 3 ply so they're going to be tougher against rocks. Something to consider if you have to deal with that sort of thing.

Don’t forget you can also get D rated tires. There aren’t a lot of them but they are available.

 

[LostWoods]

Don’t forget you can also get D rated tires. There aren’t a lot of them but they are available.

Yeah I was just speaking in the context of the BFG KO2s... the talk about plies and all will vary among other tires and typically you only find one load range for each tire with the exception being where an OEM fitment shares the same size.

 

[brianinca]

The C load tires were OEM for the Hummer H2 which has an empty weight of 6400 lbs, more than the max gross of the Gladiator. They held up GREAT offroad on a very heavy vehicle. The only tire we lost in 100K (I don't know about after that, previous wife has it) was from a cattle guard that broke and slashed the sidewall - an extra ply would have stopped nothing. 37" MT's significantly affected ride and handling even on a big heavy truck like that, as well - which made 35's an easy decision for me on my JTR.

I don't see the benefit to running a way overweight and over-stiff tire to carry a load my truck will never see. Nice there are choices for tires, though.

There's of course going to be some difference but it's a lot less on a Rubicon than a Max Tow... My truck was noticeably more sluggish off the line but the JTR also didn't feel as peppy when I test drove it. It's very drivable and I had no issues pulling a fully loaded 6x12 Uhaul trailer across country with them.

But I'll be the dissenting opinion on the C vs E... they are stiffer but the truck is plenty heavy enough to make them comfortable around 31psi and I have good wear 10k into them. The benefit of the E here is that the C are the OEM Raptor tire and only a 2-ply sidewall - the E load tires have a 3 ply so they're going to be tougher against rocks. Something to consider if you have to deal with that sort of thing.

 

[LostWoods]

The C load tires were OEM for the Hummer H2 which has an empty weight of 6400 lbs, more than the max gross of the Gladiator. They held up GREAT offroad on a very heavy vehicle. The only tire we lost in 100K (I don't know about after that, previous wife has it) was from a cattle guard that broke and slashed the sidewall - an extra ply would have stopped nothing. 37" MT's significantly affected ride and handling even on a big heavy truck like that, as well - which made 35's an easy decision for me on my JTR.

I don't see the benefit to running a way overweight and over-stiff tire to carry a load my truck will never see. Nice there are choices for tires, though.

If you are so concerned about ride quality that you think an E load range tire is a burden over a C load of the same tire, then I suggest you question your life choices that brought you to buying a Jeep. The individual tire choice and the equipment on your truck is going to have a significantly larger impact on overall ride quality than the difference between two load ranges on the same tire. You simply cannot compare a C of one tire to an E of another just like how you can't compare the little treadlife/handling/etc. ratings manufacturers specify with their tires.

Neither 35 vs 37 or C vs E is going to make that much a difference in handling. What will is how the truck is set up and what tread pattern you chose. A cheap MT is going to have much worse handling than a good AT and a quality tire is going to have much better ride quality than a cheap tire. If you are seriously focused on ride quality, you need to focus on the tread design more than anything.

 

[Deleted member 30519]

There's of course going to be some difference but it's a lot less on a Rubicon than a Max Tow... My truck was noticeably more sluggish off the line but the JTR also didn't feel as peppy when I test drove it. It's very drivable and I had no issues pulling a fully loaded 6x12 Uhaul trailer across country with them.

But I'll be the dissenting opinion on the C vs E... they are stiffer but the truck is plenty heavy enough to make them comfortable around 31psi and I have good wear 10k into them. The benefit of the E here is that the C are the OEM Raptor tire and only a 2-ply sidewall - the E load tires have a 3 ply so they're going to be tougher against rocks. Something to consider if you have to deal with that sort of thing.

I agree on the E rated tires. I've had my E rated 35" Duratracs for going on 3 years now and I have a 100 yard gravel driveway. Not once did I get chunk of the tread torn off from stuck rocks etc.. those tires are tough.

 

[firehog]

This is my uneducated opinion: I’m walking with you on a regear if you’re going to add lockers. Might as well, already in there. As for which ratio? 35’s and mostly pavement/highway, 4.56’s. You will want the 4.88’s for off road, but not worth the sacrifice for pavement use. If you think you will ever go 37”, then 4.88’s. But 37’s, in my opinion and to do it right, require a whole lot of expensive upgrades just for a better look. And probably won’t get me anywhere my 35’s would since I’m a sucky driver anyways. Lol. (Probably just more stuck and more broken parts! ). I am jealous you are getting it done. I want to, but just don’t have the funds yet.

 

[j.o.y.ride]

This is my uneducated opinion: I’m walking with you on a regear if you’re going to add lockers. Might as well, already in there. As for which ratio? 35’s and mostly pavement/highway, 4.56’s. You will want the 4.88’s for off road, but not worth the sacrifice for pavement use. If you think you will ever go 37”, then 4.88’s. But 37’s, in my opinion and to do it right, require a whole lot of expensive upgrades just for a better look. And probably won’t get me anywhere my 35’s would since I’m a sucky driver anyways. Lol. (Probably just more stuck and more broken parts! ). I am jealous you are getting it done. I want to, but just don’t have the funds yet.

Yes I am with you there. It's a lot easier to buy underbody protection for the extra 1" you'd get from 37s than to upgrade all the components you should. I may upgrade those components in time and if I do then fine, do 37s. But if I stick with 35s, like you, I am very unlikely to get stuck in a place where the 37 is what would have saved me and gotten me through. Possible, but exceedingly unlikely. Would really need to get to 40s to see marked improvement, but I need my bed and can't sacrifice it for a spare. And, I wouldn't fit in my garage with 40s and extra lift.

Wife wants a Wrangler, if anything I would put 37s on that because the shorter wheel base and 37s would be a marked improvement over the longer truck.

 

[LostWoods]

Yes I am with you there. It's a lot easier to buy underbody protection for the extra 1" you'd get from 37s than to upgrade all the components you should. I may upgrade those components in time and if I do then fine, do 37s. But if I stick with 35s, like you, I am very unlikely to get stuck in a place where the 37 is what would have saved me and gotten me through. Possible, but exceedingly unlikely. Would really need to get to 40s to see marked improvement, but I need my bed and can't sacrifice it for a spare. And, I wouldn't fit in my garage with 40s and extra lift.

Wife wants a Wrangler, if anything I would put 37s on that because the shorter wheel base and 37s would be a marked improvement over the longer truck.

I remember before 40s became the new 37s and 33s were the standard upgrade that got you through 95% of stuff. Granted, those were much smaller trucks/Jeeps but still, I think most people will be served just fine by 35s and instead should be investing in a lift to help the abysmal breakover and departure. I have yet to hang up a diff but I've definitely high-centered a couple times where droop or articulation would probably have helped.

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