Fridge in bed on slide

[darkhorse13]

Question, because I can't quite tell from your pics...could you slide the Rebel Offroad mount back along the rail so that the fridge sits closer to the cab, or would the wheel well interfere with the bracket? I'm not concerned with being able to extend the slide out past the tailgate, but rather looking for a platform for the fridge that doesn't require bolting through the floor.

If you don't have a bed rack or anything else using the bed rail channels you can move it anywhere. I have to mount mine between the bed rack points and could only slide back just a little bit more. The (2) mounting bolts on the platform base are pre-drilled and there's no movement there unless you re-drilled holes

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[Shadowmaker]

I ended up fitting a piece of plywood into the bed. Bolted a fridge slide onto the board. This guy gave me ideas of how I fashioned mine.

 

[arjeeper]

Can anyone confirm the ARB Elements 63 on a solid mount (no slide) will fit under a Diamondback SE?

 

[Wolf Island Diver]

Thanks to everyone contributing to this thread. I got an ARB Classic II 63 based on this and it fits under my Diamondback HD.

I’ve go so much crap in my truck (recovery gear, camping stuff, PowerTank, Viking propane tank, etc., that there’s no room for it to slide around.

I don’t think I’m going to do a slider. Instead following the KISS principle, I’m going to get a piece of HDPE from my plastics supplier and mount it to the bottom to facilitate sliding it out more easily over the rough bed liner. I may fabricate some rails out of aluminum angle that will butt up against the HDPE like guard rails, to keep it from sliding around when there’s less stuff in the truck and just use rivnuts to attach them to the floor of the bed to facilitate removal. The tailgate will keep the fridge secure from the back. In order to open this fridge I have to slide it all the way out anyway so I don’t thing I can find a slider that long.

The one thing that I struggled with is the best way to power it. I debated between the GZ Yeti 500 and the Dometic PL40. GZ doesn’t do a really good job of making it clear what the Yeti can do. For example they claim it will power a standard fridge for about 6 hours. They don’t talk about these portable fridges. You also have to dig to find out if you can change it and power a fridge at the same time (you can). I was leaning towards the Dometic but the GZ is more versatile

I took the leap and I’m glad I did. With the Yeti 500 and can run the ARB for about 40 hours. In high temps, obviously that will go down. With the 120w fast charger, it will recharge in less than 4 hours. I keep the Yeti plugged into the inverter in the bed. I can stay at one camp site for about 2 days, move down the trail a bit and get another 2 days out of the fridge. Im pretty satisfied with this setup.

My only gripes are that ARBs temperature is significantly off. I just keep an AcuRite thermometer in the fridge and set the temp based on that. I also find that temps in the bed don’t get all that high. The ARB puts out very little heat when running. I can’t imagine a need for dual batteries anymore, not that there’s room with the diesel. I also wished the GZ had a Bluetooth app so I could monitor it from the cab like the ARB.

 

[Mules]

My ICECO JP42 is 1/4" shorter than the bed rails. Not enough room for a slide under it though.

 

[Shadowmaker]

Thanks to everyone contributing to this thread. I got an ARB Classic II 63 based on this and it fits under my Diamondback HD.

I’ve go so much crap in my truck (recovery gear, camping stuff, PowerTank, Viking propane tank, etc., that there’s no room for it to slide around.

I don’t think I’m going to do a slider. Instead following the KISS principle, I’m going to get a piece of HDPE from my plastics supplier and mount it to the bottom to facilitate sliding it out more easily over the rough bed liner. I may fabricate some rails out of aluminum angle that will butt up against the HDPE like guard rails, to keep it from sliding around when there’s less stuff in the truck and just use rivnuts to attach them to the floor of the bed to facilitate removal. The tailgate will keep the fridge secure from the back. In order to open this fridge I have to slide it all the way out anyway so I don’t thing I can find a slider that long.

The one thing that I struggled with is the best way to power it. I debated between the GZ Yeti 500 and the Dometic PL40. GZ doesn’t do a really good job of making it clear what the Yeti can do. For example they claim it will power a standard fridge for about 6 hours. They don’t talk about these portable fridges. You also have to dig to find out if you can change it and power a fridge at the same time (you can). I was leaning towards the Dometic but the GZ is more versatile

I took the leap and I’m glad I did. With the Yeti 500 and can run the ARB for about 40 hours. In high temps, obviously that will go down. With the 120w fast charger, it will recharge in less than 4 hours. I keep the Yeti plugged into the inverter in the bed. I can stay at one camp site for about 2 days, move down the trail a bit and get another 2 days out of the fridge. Im pretty satisfied with this setup.

My only gripes are that ARBs temperature is significantly off. I just keep an AcuRite thermometer in the fridge and set the temp based on that. I also find that temps in the bed don’t get all that high. The ARB puts out very little heat when running. I can’t imagine a need for dual batteries anymore, not that there’s room with the diesel. I also wished the GZ had a Bluetooth app so I could monitor it from the cab like the ARB.

Tell me more about your Air setup? Will the GZ fit under the back seat?

 

[Wolf Island Diver]

Tell me more about your Air setup? Will the GZ fit under the back seat?

Here’s the link to a thread about these DIY air setups.

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...-down-system-with-powertank.49750/post-879507

@JBahr mounted his using the SmartCap. I piggybacked on his work and ran ports through penetrations in the bed to fit under my Diamondback cover. Both of us have write ups and links to parts.

I’m not sure about the GZ fitting under the seat. I replaced the box with this:

https://www.813fabrication.com/under-seat-bin

On the passenger side I have about 75lbs worth of tools in one of these:

https://www.atlas46.com/products.ht...etach-Tool-Roll/p/136876533/category=34912316

I think the GZ might fit. When I get a chance I will check. I have it in the bed so that I can plug the 120w charger into the bed inverter.

 

[Shadowmaker]

Here’s the link to a thread about these DIY air setups.

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...-down-system-with-powertank.49750/post-879507

@JBahr mounted his using the SmartCap. I piggybacked on his work and ran ports through penetrations in the bed to fit under my Diamondback cover. Both of us have write ups and links to parts.

I’m not sure about the GZ fitting under the seat. I replaced the box with this:

https://www.813fabrication.com/under-seat-bin

On the passenger side I have about 75lbs worth of tools in one of these:

https://www.atlas46.com/products.ht...etach-Tool-Roll/p/136876533/category=34912316

I think the GZ might fit. When I get a chance I will check. I have it in the bed so that I can plug the 120w charger into the bed inverter.

Thanks for the info... I am considering a GZ or an Ecoflow

 

[gimprota]

I was looking for something to put under the Tonneau cover and ended up with a Rough Country 45L fridge that is about 17" high and costs half of the more common brands.

I have had a Dometic and an ARB in the past, we will see how this compares.
For me, height was a key factor, and traveling alone most of the time I didn't need more than 50l (in my research it seems there are a lot more refrigerators over 50l that are below 20" height), so this checks all the boxes.
It has an LG compressor, which should be decent long-term, and even if it is not as refined as the other brands, for less than half the price I'll try it.

Just another option to add to the list.

 

[Wolf Island Diver]

I now have some more experience with the ARB in high temps (85-92) in an enclosed bed packed with other gear. In short it works. It makes the inside of the bed hot which affects what I can put in my food box (Roam 52L). Chocolate is not a good idea ?. The ARB can still maintain 31 degrees which meats my needs. It’s only left in the packed bed with the tailgate closed when moving which is when the GZ is plugged into the inverter. When I stop and set up camp, the fridge gets slid out onto the tailgate. With the weight distribution of the fridge I find that it can cantilever out so that it’s back side is flush with the outside edge of the Diamondback without it tumbling off the tailgate.

I’m finding that running off the GZ in 85+ temps, run times are roughly down to probably a day and a half, but I’ve now got 120-140 effective watts of Solar so it’s not a concern. The long and short is that if you use this setup (Yeti 500x, ARB 63) and it’s hot and you’re staying more than a day, you need solar which shouldn’t be surprising.

I’m not sure what the effect on the fridge with less ventilation is long term. It doesn’t run like this for weeks, only less than a day at a time, but I can only assume it stresses the compressor. Also it makes the inside of the bed hot. I’d like to investigate active bed ventilation but I actually need better sealing or positive pressure to keep dust out. Those needs might work at cross purposes.

All that crap below (roam box, orange wood box, pizza oven!, cookpartner stove w/ griddle, roll top table way in the back) goes in the bed along with a Alps guide table, cleanwaste toilet, the GZ, worthington AL propane tank in a PowerTank bracket, 15lb PowerTank and a chainsaw. There’s a large recovery gear bag and spill kit forward of the fridge. That bag (x-large ATC gear bag) with a massive Factor55 Kinetic alone takes up 1/4 of the bed

The NATO cans go in the enclosed compartment I fabricated between the Front Runner and the Diamondback along with chairs, Discata and other random stuff.

I’m going to fabricate a pivoting table for the Mountain Hatch tailgate cover, probably out of real baltic birch with a monopod support leg, so I can get rid of the Alps table and I’ve switched to gas on the ooni so I don’t need to bring wood. I’m always trying to reduce how much stuff I bring while maximizing the luxuries.

 

[IzzyO]

Unfortunately not as I was in a time-crunch to get it done before a big road trip.

The biggest headache was planning/measuring. The tailgate has a slightly higher ridge than the bed so getting the height was the most important part. In order for it to fit it had to be high enough to clear the tailgate ridge and low enough as my TruckCoversUSA tonneau has a lip that hangs down below the sides of the bed about 1/2". I ended up shaving about 1/8" off the fridge feet just for an added bit of clearance.

I ordered heavy duty drawer slides from amazon similar to this:
https://www.amazon.com/SDPAWA-40-Se...adania+drawer+slides+40&qid=1592311387&sr=8-6
-I found a set from a different supplier for a bit cheaper but they do not have stock anymore.

I ordered my raw aluminum pieces from:
https://www.midweststeelsupply.com/store/
-they are great because they have a large selection and everything was cut to my measurements and very precise.

I used thicker 2-1/2" x 2" x 1/4" structural angle for the support rails on the bed. I mounted the heavy duty drawer slides to those brackets.

I made a frame out of 2" x 1-1/2" x 1/8" structural angle for the frame of the drawer slides.

The base for the slide is 6061 Aluminum sheet 0.125" thick.

I Used machine screws from home depot to mount everything together after drilling holes where I needed and some 5/8" bolts/washers to mount it to the bed.

The fridge slide on the left was made in 2 sections, mainly so that I could have tie-down strength for the rubber straps to hold the fridge down and have more storage behind the fridge for a box of dry food goods.

The main thing is making it to the size you need. I ended up doing 2 slides side-by-side almost the complete length of the bed (with room for my water tank/pump and propane tank at the head of the bed).

Here are really the only pics I have; wish I had done a build thread as they turned out amazing and I'm sure others may want to do the same.

All-in I think was about $500 for the aluminum pieces pre-cut, 2 sets of heavy-duty drawer slides and all the machine screws/mounting bits etc...

If you have any questions feel free to send a DM...

@DrJ This is really clean. Thanks for sharing.

I have a couple of questions on your setup.

When you added the additional slide on the right side how did you connect the new slider to the middle L bracket and still have clearance on the backside for the other slider, did you rivet both sliders together through the L Bracket? I see in your 3rd picture the lock nuts extrude on that side of the middle L Bracket.

Now that you've had this on for a few years have you found that the aluminum base is strong enough without any cross member support?

Your water tank/pump looks amazing. Do you have any information /write ups or video on how you put this together (install, parts etc.) & how you use it? I think I saw in another one of your posts you have water hookups on the rear of the bed that run from the tank.

Thanks,

 

[Mules]

My ICECO JP42 is 1/4" shorter than the bed rails. Not enough room for a slide under it though.

Has anyone found a fridge slide that will fit between the wheel well and the tailgate. I'm thinking about changing my interior so that the fridge is under my bench seat and it slides out, but I want to keep it as close to the sidewall as possible as pictured above.

 

[AKID_RBM]

Bump it up...

Refreshing an older thread here but to the OP's original ask about the Rebel Off-Road fridge mount... it's WORTH it! I wish I would have bought this originally before drilling holes in my bed. I mounted my ARB 63qt on a pair of Accuride sliders that are attached to the Xplor fridge base plate. I had to go with this slightly custom setup due to height restrictions and wanting to use my Lite Rider soft cover. The dedicated ARB 63qt slide would sit too tall with Rebel Off Road fridge mount plate if I wanted to use the soft cover.

As it sits and slides right now, here's the how-to...
1) ARB 63qt fridge attached to the ARB Fridge Solid Mount Kit #10900039
2) Solid Mount Kit attached to 26" Accuride sliders
3) Accuride sliders attached to Xplor fridge mount plate
4) Removed the (2) round aluminum support bars from under the Lite Rider soft cover

The fridge sits just slightly lower than the soft cover but in order to slide it out you have to pop the lip of the cover to provide clearance. If you wanted to shave off roughly 1/4" - 1/2" of the rubber mounting feet of the base plate I bet you could get the fridge low enough to use the round support bars again... which I see no need for as the cover does not flap or show any signs of sagging. I personally like them removed as it also makes rolling and manipulating the cover between the vertical center cross braces of the rack much easier. I guess if you stacked objects on top of the soft cover often you'd want them?

I'm sure a majority of you all are not running this setup but it's still a glowing recommendation for the Rebel Off Road fridge mount as it's a no drill / (2) bolt removal option to maintain the functionality of your truck bed.

Are there any alternatives to the Rebel Off Road Trail Rail mount? It's a pretty small piece of metal for the $$. How well does it work to keep the slide stable? Understand it is probably looser than a drilled option, but I like the idea of being able to remove the slide when I don't need the fridge in there. Thanks!

 

[jhale1800]

Are there any alternatives to the Rebel Off Road Trail Rail mount? It's a pretty small piece of metal for the $$. How well does it work to keep the slide stable? Understand it is probably looser than a drilled option, but I like the idea of being able to remove the slide when I don't need the fridge in there. Thanks!

I used rivet nuts to mount mine so I don't have to crawl under the Jeep to remove it.

 

[AKID_RBM]

I used rivet nuts to mount mine so I don't have to crawl under the Jeep to remove it.

I have the bed rug, and it does a great job of reducing dust when combined with my canopy and lot of weatherstripping. I like the idea of a trail rail mount connection for a slide that I can could possibly even secure with a "wing nut" for easy removal. Just having a hard time wanting to pay the $$ for that option. Debating maybe a @813 Fabrication & Design Molle panel with some a few custom parts to attach a slide that way. ???

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