Get creative challenge. Bye bye push to start button.

[SPED1]

The thing is an entire module that is on the BUS. Bypass the entire module?!?!

No, it is not. power ground ignition and one wire from the radio that is on the Can bus network. Theoretically, tricking that wire should do what the OP wants! finding out which way the signal K wire works and how is the key! Does it send the signal to the radio? Does it receive signal from the radio? is the signal power ,ground, or signal of a specific wattage /voltage/ ohm ect? That is the question you need answered

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[ShadowsPapa]

this isn't something you as a individual or you and the "10" other people who think this is an important task is gonna solve.

I mean no disrespect, but serial data (CAN BUS) to all the modules in the vehicle is something you're not gonna crack unless you have a vast wealth of knowledge of how the "whole package" works together and even if you get a following of people, if its not people with the exact knowledge of FCA's/ Stellanis's CAN BUS protocol, you have no chance in solving this issue.

Basically what I've been trying in my lame ways, to get across. This isn't a cut here, tap here, run these wires to a 1980 Camaro switch and you are golden.
The modules work together, it's not one "box" dealing with it.
I've been saying this has been engineered from the ground up with teams of engineers, not one person, and not taking a legacy system and converting it. It's a system that is far greater and more complex than any of the individual parts and you can't change a single part without freaking out the rest of the system.

Look at the people who have disabled their trucks by hitting the wrong wire with a screw or installing those retracting steps - one miss, truck is dead, and those wires weren't even in the engine bay.

I'm going to bet that some of the technology and specifics are held pretty close to the chest....... for more than one reason.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

No, it is not. power ground ignition and one wire from the radio that is on the Can bus network. Theoretically, tricking that wire should do what the OP wants! finding out which way the signal K wire works and how is the key! Does it send the signal to the radio? Does it receive signal from the radio? is the signal power ,ground, or signal of a specific wattage /voltage/ ohm ect? That is the question you need answered

If it was that simple, it would have been done.
So you get it started, then what? Where are you going to go? "FOB has left the vehicle" - fine, you can drive it but then if you shut it off, you can't start it. Fob must still be present. It's still looking for a fob.
An engineer has spoken and yet still there are those insisting it will be as simple as bypassing that switch. That switch is nothing compared to what it's interacting with.

Still it's being said that switch is the key and you only need to figure out how it works.
If it was truly that easy, do you really think it would still be a question?

 

[SPED1]

No, it is not. power ground ignition and one wire from the radio that is on the Can bus network. Theoretically, tricking that wire should do what the OP wants! finding out which way the signal K wire works and how is the key! Does it send the signal to the radio? Does it receive signal from the radio? is the signal power ,ground, or signal of a specific wattage /voltage/ ohm ect? That is the question you need answered

Ok so I am wrong but LIN bus of only one wire sounds wrong! From Mitchell online:

The keyless ignition node is connected to the radio frequency hub module with a LIN bus. When the Start button is pressed, the request goes to the RF hub through the LIN bus. The RF hub gets information about brake switch, park or clutch position and sends a request out the CAN bus and to the BCM and PCM to engage the starter relay(s).

The keyless ignition node is connected to the radio frequency hub module with a LIN bus. When the Start button is pressed, the request goes to the RF hub through the LIN bus. The RF hub gets information about brake switch, park or clutch position and sends a request out the CAN bus and to the BCM and PCM to engage the starter relay(s).

 

[Zissou]

As dumb of an idea as I think this is, you could theoretically do it if you:

• Install a stand alone, full system ECU (like a Holley one)
• Have a custom wiring harness
• Have a custom tune just for this

I'd estimate that would cost you about $10k. Maybe a little more.
And like nothing else in the car would work; traction control, cruise control, etc.

But in theory yes it could be done with enough money and willingness to sacrifice features and reliability.

 

[WILDHOBO]

As dumb of an idea as I think this is, you could theoretically do it if you:

• Install a stand alone, full system ECU (like a Holley one)
• Have a custom wiring harness
• Have a custom tune just for this

I'd estimate that would cost you about $10k. Maybe a little more.
And like nothing else in the car would work; traction control, cruise control, etc.

But in theory yes it could be done with enough money and willingness to sacrifice features and reliability.

I really just want to know if your name is Steve, based on your profile name. If so, kudos.

 

[RobbertCole]

I am done with the fob.

im certain you are not.

 

[Vtur]

I think the OP probably looking for a way to start these motor without the original fob for testing purpose. Maybe looking to purchase salvage auction vehicles.

 

[Vtur]

This is a how to start/steal a Jeep without keyfob thread. Don't waste your times folks.

The OP don't even wants to hide the fob in the vehicle shm lol

 

[Jt-wrx]

Sorry. Don't mean to disparage those who have given their thoughts here. Really it is appreciated.

The simple fact is, this is a thread to discuss how, not why not.

It is just frustrating to keep explaining that.

Yes I get it isn't ideal or even likely.

Still I'd like to talk about it if anybody else would. If not. That is cool too but don't really need to hear more about if not, that has been covered. Thanks.

sorry I soured the crowd man, I tried, guess we keep our eyes peeled for a p-pump 4bt, rebuild it and have it ready for when the pentastar takes a dump and go full mechanical, just stay away from those emissions rats and life will be perfect with our dream machines

 

[ShadowsPapa]

As dumb of an idea as I think this is, you could theoretically do it if you:

• Install a stand alone, full system ECU (like a Holley one)
• Have a custom wiring harness
• Have a custom tune just for this

I'd estimate that would cost you about $10k. Maybe a little more.
And like nothing else in the car would work; traction control, cruise control, etc.

But in theory yes it could be done with enough money and willingness to sacrifice features and reliability.

Yes, like has been suggested in an earlier page, but those are for retro-fitting.
You'd lose control over the cooling system, the power steering pump (because it's electro-hydraulic) and other things - depending on where you live - you'd be defeating emissions requirements so you can't ask a shop to do it - again, depending on where you live. In Iowa they don't give a rip. Big blue clouds killing bugs, you get cheered on, black smoke choking even heavy smokers, no big deal.
Even disabling the TPMS is against federal law. No business can send a broken TPMS system out the door if it came in working. "thou shalt not disable or cause to not work" type of thing. (and that's almost how it is written)

It's doable with the type of system already mentioned - those intended for retro-fit, but you lose so many things otherwise. There's probably a long list of things that will stop working because they rely on the modules you'd be disconnecting from each other. The PCM is sort of the main brain of these and everything seems to talk to it.
IMO you may as well buy a 1960s or 70s Jeep.

Those packages are intended to drop a modern engine into a car that has basically no electronics at all.

 

[DobaMark]

So you need to go back even before the push button start for thinking about this.

For example, I'll pick my old 2005 Chrysler 300 that still had a metal key. And even with that key there was a chip. Turning the key to start the car is no problem. But if the chip in the key is not recognized the ignition shuts down (actually I think it was fuel delivery that shut down). So you could make a non-chipped key and the car would turn over but it would start then die.
So even before proximity key, the key's ID was necessary to start the car.

So you've got to both power the starter and then provide a signal to the computer that simulates the authorization of the key/proximity chip or you won't have ignition or fuel.

 

[ALVagabond]

No doubt you can find a relatively simple way to start the engine without the fob. But driving the vehicle around and having it operate "normally" is a whole other ask. All those various modules are communicating constantly with each other and it only take one logical path in one module to request a communication with the fob for the whole thing to brick.

 

[Zissou]

Yes, like has been suggested in an earlier page, but those are for retro-fitting.
You'd lose control over the cooling system, the power steering pump (because it's electro-hydraulic) and other things - depending on where you live - you'd be defeating emissions requirements so you can't ask a shop to do it - again, depending on where you live. In Iowa they don't give a rip. Big blue clouds killing bugs, you get cheered on, black smoke choking even heavy smokers, no big deal.
Even disabling the TPMS is against federal law. No business can send a broken TPMS system out the door if it came in working. "thou shalt not disable or cause to not work" type of thing. (and that's almost how it is written)

It's doable with the type of system already mentioned - those intended for retro-fit, but you lose so many things otherwise. There's probably a long list of things that will stop working because they rely on the modules you'd be disconnecting from each other. The PCM is sort of the main brain of these and everything seems to talk to it.
IMO you may as well buy a 1960s or 70s Jeep.

Those packages are intended to drop a modern engine into a car that has basically no electronics at all.

Oh I know, it's an awful idea on many fronts. Homie is best served buying a 15-20 year old ford ranger with the $10k it's would cost to make his gladiator worse.

And good to know about TPMS... I got 4 from Costco that currently do not work because their systems can't train 22's (and the 2nd half 21's)

I really just want to know if your name is Steve, based on your profile name. If so, kudos.

haha no, just a huge fan of the movie

 

[Rusty PW]

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