How successful would my Gladiator Sport be on the Rubicon Trail?

[hjdca]

IMO, the JT is just the wrong tool for that job!

It can obviously be done, but how much struggle and damage are you willing to take on? I wouldn't take a JT I cared about though Rubicon unless it had at least 40's and supporting mods.

Been through 9 times over the past 25 years using a KTM 525EXC, Samurai, CJ7, and YJ all with relative ease due to short wheelbase and narrow track......The JT is NONE of those!

We had JLUs (4XE) and JKUs in our group and they really did not do that much better except on the tight turns, and with sliders, you can plant and slide the rear around on the Gladiator. On some hills and off camber climbs, the Gladiator had the advantage. With the Gladiator, you need more lift and bigger tires than the JKU and JLU, but, with those mods, you draw just about even.
To me, the damage I recieved was the same as the JKU and JLUs, skid rashes, rim rashes, diff skid rashes. engine and transfer case skid rashes.... About the only three exceptions is the Gladiator rear tail light, rear end links. and rear hitch (I run a hitch skid). You will see in the video that one of our guys lost one tail light... You have to be carefull with the tail lights when you swing the rear around. The rear end links also get bent if you slide off a rock. I bent mine, but, that is a $10 part from Clayton. BTW, this is the third time I have bent them, so, that part is unique to the Gladiator.
The JKU and JLU suffer from the lower rear shock mount location. Slide off a rock and you could be dealing with a shock mount issue.

PS. Gladiator Rear control arm skid at the frame also gets a workout.

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[CrazyCooter]

Yea it isn't the ideal vehicle for the trail but pushing its limits is part of the fun lol. You and the others are probably right that I would need a bit more serious mods before I attempt it.

The JT is a great vehicle for some trails!

I had a blast in Moab, but most of what we did had options that could work to the advantage of a JT. Rubicon and Fordyce are less forgiving........

I'm primarily a desert guy, so the long wheelbase smooths things out, but I keep the YJ around for the rougher low speed stuff.

 

[Josh903]

We had JLUs (4XE) and JKUs in our group and they really did not do that much better except on the tight turns, and with sliders, you can plant and slide the rear around on the Gladiator. On some hills and off camber climbs, the Gladiator had the advantage. With the Gladiator, you need more lift and bigger tires than the JKU and JLU, but, with those mods, you draw just about even.
To me, the damage I recieved was the same as the JKU and JLUs, skid rashes, rim rashes, diff skid rashes. engine and transfer case skid rashes.... About the only three exceptions is the Gladiator rear tail light, rear end links. and rear hitch (I run a hitch skid). You will see in the video that one of our guys lost one tail light... You have to be carefull with the tail lights when you swing the rear around. The rear end links also get bent if you slide off a rock. I bent mine, but, that is a $10 part from Clayton. BTW, this is the third time I have bent them, so, that part is unique to the Gladiator.

PS. Rear control arm skid at the frame also gets a workout.

Good info. On the topic of rear end links, I recently got the Metal Cloak rear sway bar link reinforcement bracket and their end links. The factory frame mounts had cracked and the captive nut that is in there was loose on both sides and the reinforcement resolved it. I've seen many pictures of those mounts ripping out. We'll see how long the links themselves last lol.

 

[CrazyCooter]

We had JLUs (4XE) and JKUs in our group and they really did not do that much better except on the tight turns, and with sliders, you can plant and slide the rear around on the Gladiator. On some hills and off camber climbs, the Gladiator had the advantage. With the Gladiator, you need more lift and bigger tires than the JKU and JLU, but, with those mods, you draw just about even.
To me, the damage I recieved was the same as the JKU and JLUs, skid rashes, rim rashes, diff skid rashes. engine and transfer case skid rashes.... About the only three exceptions is the Gladiator rear tail light, rear end links. and rear hitch (I run a hitch skid). You will see in the video that one of our guys lost one tail light... You have to be carefull with the tail lights when you swing the rear around. The rear end links also get bent if you slide off a rock. I bent mine, but, that is a $10 part from Clayton. BTW, this is the third time I have bent them, so, that part is unique to the Gladiator.

PS. Rear control arm skid at the frame also gets a workout.

I wouldn't choose to take a JL through there either, but it would be easier than a JT!

I'm used to driving though without a spotter on 35's, in one day, and only touch down on rocks a hand full of times.........

Vehicles have gotten so BIG in the past few years that they require so much more skill, force, and height to drive through the narrow rough stuff. Size wise, the TJU was the one to have in my opinion but they did have their own set of problems with that vintage.

 

[hjdca]

Good info. On the topic of rear end links, I recently got the Metal Cloak rear sway bar link reinforcement bracket and their end links. The factory frame mounts had cracked and the captive nut that is in there was loose on both sides and the reinforcement resolved it. I've seen many pictures of those mounts ripping out. We'll see how long the links themselves last lol.

I am running the Metalcloak re-enforcement plate. It did it's job. The end links bent, but, the tabs at the frame did not. The only new thing that happened is that the tabs on the sway bar also bent. I am addressing the end links today, so, I will take some pics and let you know if this is an issue to bend back or not.

 

[Bonanza]

At a MINIMUM i would tack the ujoint caps with a welder. You can do this without much effort and its very very cheap insurance. 3 or 4 tack welds on each cap to the yoke.

If you get bound up on the trail from dropping into a V notch you can spit the caps on the ujoints then it spins and takes the balljoints out. This has been a problem with open knuckles since forever.

On my 2015 JK sport with a front dana 30 and 37's I simply welded the caps. I never had the above happen but saw many many many JKU's with even D44's spit the caps and lose a knuckle.

I would also upgrade the tie rod and drag link or the first rock that hits it will have your steering wheel at 180 degrees.

#sorrynotsorry but welding the Ujoint caps might be so low on a realistic priority list this almost rings like a joke. Especially in light of thinking it was a good idea to run 37s on a dana 30. I've had two JKs, wheeled with countless others (on hard trails) and this is the first time I've ever heard of anyone losing a cast iron knuckle from a Ujoint failing. Based on OP's stated experience, if he gets into a V-notch, a tack on a U joint will not save the damage to come.

I also wouldn't upgrade the tie rod or drag link either. I'd suggest instead bringing a spare used TR as a backup, and let the experience dictate whether an expensive new part is warranted.

It's hard for text to not come across as patronizing, so let me say this isn't my intent. I simply respectfully disagree and submit my humble opinion.

 

[Bonanza]

IMO, the JT is just the wrong tool for that job!

It can obviously be done, but how much struggle and damage are you willing to take on? I wouldn't take a JT I cared about though Rubicon unless it had at least 40's and supporting mods.

Been through 9 times over the past 25 years using a KTM 525EXC, Samurai, CJ7, and YJ all with relative ease due to short wheelbase and narrow track......The JT is NONE of those!

Jeep engineers did it stock. In my experience, there are two main types of wheelers:

1) "You'll never make it through with that"
2) "Watch me"

One of my favorite things about the gladiator is wheeling it hard on the rocks and showing naysayers what's up. My skids, sliders, and bumpers all have done their duties, but the Rubicon only "needs" 40s if you're lacking in the talent dept. (Qualifier-- I would definitely need at least a 37, as my own talent ain't high enough for 35s)

Cheers!

 

[wayned]

https://www.autoblog.com/2019/09/27/2020-jeep-gladiator-rubicon-off-road-drive/
It is more than capable in its stock configuration.

 

[DocMike]

https://tfltruck.com/2019/09/2020-j...-truck-up-americas-hardest-rocky-trail-video/

 

[hjdca]

Good info. On the topic of rear end links, I recently got the Metal Cloak rear sway bar link reinforcement bracket and their end links. The factory frame mounts had cracked and the captive nut that is in there was loose on both sides and the reinforcement resolved it. I've seen many pictures of those mounts ripping out. We'll see how long the links themselves last lol.

As I mentioned, the Metalcloak plate did it's job, no problems with the end links mounting location on the frame. The end links stud bent as predicted, but, also the sway bar tabs were bent out.

I just finished the end links job. I went with new rod studs and used a copper hammer and 2x4 piece of wood to bend back the sway bar tabs. My assessment is that I prefer having the Metalcloak reinforcement plate and bending end tabs back on the sway bar and replacing rod studs than dealing with the OEM flimsey end link connection plate at the frame. So, I am glad I have them. Here are some pics:

Note: tabs bent out

Tabs bent back in with Copper Hammer and wood backstop

Good to go again !

 

[Josh903]

As I mentioned, the Metalcloak plate did it's job, no problems with the end links mounting location on the frame. The end links stud bent as predicted, but, also the sway bar tabs were bent out.

I just finished the end links job. I went with new rod studs and used a copper hammer and 2x4 piece of wood to bend back the sway bar tabs. My assessment is that I prefer having the Metalcloak reinforcement plate and bending end tabs back on the sway bar and replacing rod studs than dealing with the OEM flimsey end link connection plate at the frame. So, I am glad I have them. Here are some pics:

Note: tabs bent out

Tabs bent back in with Copper Hammer and wood backstop

Good to go again !

Looks like a simple enough fix. Yea I would rather replace the end links and hammer on the sway bar tabs then have to hassle with the frame side mounts. I tried various things to address those prior to Metal Cloak releasing their reinforcement plates so I am glad they developed those and now not having to deal with those again.

 

[MPMB]

Jeep engineers did it stock. In my experience, there are two main types of wheelers:

1) "You'll never make it through with that"
2) "Watch me"

One of my favorite things about the gladiator is wheeling it hard on the rocks and showing naysayers what's up. My skids, sliders, and bumpers all have done their duties, but the Rubicon only "needs" 40s if you're lacking in the talent dept. (Qualifier-- I would definitely need at least a 37, as my own talent ain't high enough for 35s)

Cheers!

I mean, isn't that why there's a trim level called Rubicon?

 

[WILDHOBO]

Good trail reports. I’m doing it in august. I’ll be sure to report back with results. I have skids on both diffs, all LCA’s, rear shocks, hitch, and a full belly pan taking care of engine, trans, t-case, and fuel tank. I’m on 37’s with a 3” lift in front, 4” in rear, 5.13’s, lockers, RCV’s in front, and winch. The steel drive shaft goes in probably next week. And I’m adding armor to the slider steps. I expect cosmetic scratches, but am not expecting major damage. I don’t tend to send it though. I pick my lines carefully when possible. I’m certainly not in a tiny 2 door, so it will take some concentration. I’ll provide an honest recap when it’s over in a couple of months.

 

[@californiajeeping]

Another thing about relying on BLD. BLD is grabbing a brake caliper on the spinning tire to transfer torque to the tire with traction. It doesnt engage immediately as theres some delay a

#sorrynotsorry but welding the Ujoint caps might be so low on a realistic priority list this almost rings like a joke. Especially in light of thinking it was a good idea to run 37s on a dana 30. I've had two JKs, wheeled with countless others (on hard trails) and this is the first time I've ever heard of anyone losing a cast iron knuckle from a Ujoint failing. Based on OP's stated experience, if he gets into a V-notch, a tack on a U joint will not save the damage to come.

I also wouldn't upgrade the tie rod or drag link either. I'd suggest instead bringing a spare used TR as a backup, and let the experience dictate whether an expensive new part is warranted.

It's hard for text to not come across as patronizing, so let me say this isn't my intent. I simply respectfully disagree and submit my humble opinion.

All good but I’ve seen it more often than not. It takes the ball joints out not the knuckle itself but then your wheel and knuckle are sitting flopped on the trail and you have no way out

or you could get RCV shafts which everyone does that wheels hard without Dana60 budgets.

 

[Trippin01]

I just did it last weekend. Sport Max tow, no lockers no rear LSD and never spun a tire for more than a few seconds. 5.13 gearing on 37's with a 5" lift. Challenging trail, but I never needed pushed, pulled or winched. I did skip little sluice. I ran it in the traditional direction from the Loon Lake start to the Cadillac hill finish. We stayed 1 night at Buck Island Lake.

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