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Leaking rear window : fixes for those who don't want to play dealer roulette, wait 2 months, have their top scratched, seats ripped etc....

Jeepmonster

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Can you share what size you used. A link to the actual product would be great. For those that want to try this approach.
Here is the link to the weatherstrip. I used the 25mm. It is just wide enough to cover the beveled gap.
https://www.gtglass.com/products/auto-glass-universal-rubber-molding-25mm?variant=709141430297

Jeep Gladiator Leaking rear window : fixes for those who don't want to play dealer roulette, wait 2 months, have their top scratched, seats ripped etc.... 20230325_173337


. that actually looks pretty good. Did you have to do anything special to get it to hug the radius of the corners?
I didn't do anything special around the corners. The rubber is very pliable. It helps to do it on a warm day in the sun. The bottom corners were too tight of a radious, so I left it alone. Once I put my hard tonneau cover over the bed, you can't really notice it.
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NC_Overland

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Thank you for posting this and the tips. I’m pretty sure mine doesn’t leak, but being a 2020 In sure it’s a matter of time. I plan to add this to my to do list. I ordered the tubing.
 

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FloridaAussie

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Could be the same thing as RV self leveling sealant used on roofs. What color is it? If you use it on the rear window channel. You need to build dams at each corner of the window to keep the sealant in place. Otherwise it will run down and drip on the paint between the cab and bed.
I watched a video on their website; the stuff comes in blue which is perfect for my hydro blue. It seems to have a similar viscosity to honey at 72º room temp. I'm sure I'd have to mask off the inside of the window as a precaution, and like you say, build a damn at each end.
 

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Rusty PW

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I watched a video on their website; the stuff comes in blue which is perfect for my hydro blue. It seems to have a similar viscosity to honey at 72º room temp. I'm sure I'd have to mask off the inside of the window as a precaution, and like you say, build a damn at each end.
For the dam. You can use modelling clay, or if you have kids. Playdo.
 

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Here is the link to the weatherstrip. I used the 25mm. It is just wide enough to cover the beveled gap.
https://www.gtglass.com/products/auto-glass-universal-rubber-molding-25mm?variant=709141430297

20230325_173337.jpg



I didn't do anything special around the corners. The rubber is very pliable. It helps to do it on a warm day in the sun. The bottom corners were too tight of a radious, so I left it alone. Once I put my hard tonneau cover over the bed, you can't really notice it.
I got some of this stuff but in the M19 3/4" version, and I found it near impossible to install. The channel that fits over the glass naturally closes on itself and I can't for the life of me get it to stay open long enough to press it over the window. I ended up giving up and went back to the silicon hose, and will try again another time when I can feel my finger tips again.
 

FloridaAussie

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I got some of this stuff but in the M19 3/4" version, and I found it near impossible to install. The channel that fits over the glass naturally closes on itself and I can't for the life of me get it to stay open long enough to press it over the window. I ended up giving up and went back to the silicon hose, and will try again another time when I can feel my finger tips again.
I'm guessing it's rubber...could you put it in a bucket of hot soapy water and install it as you pull it out of the bucket? Make it pliable and slippery might make it easy to install.
 

93civej1

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Do the newer 24 and 25 leak? Or have they not been around long enough to find out yet?
 

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Rusty PW

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Just ordered this too.
Well hey big spender!

Did you watch the video on their website? Looks pretty easy and really my only concern was the size of the nozzle. Most dudes don't have the problem, but I'm wondering if it will fit in that tiny little channel? I was planning on running some masking tape along the painted upper surface, but in the channel as far in as I could get it, and along the edge of the glass. And again a third strip on the inside to prevent it seeping, but that probably won't be needed.

Wonder if you'd care to take some photos or even video as you do it? I'm excited to see your results!
 

Rusty PW

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Finally got around to applying the Eastwood self leveling seam sealer. The shit is messy if you ain't careful. I cleaned the area with q-tips and alcohol. That channel is deep. I made my corner dams from modeling clay. To open the tube. You have to remove the plug in the end with pliers. Screw the mixing end on. Take lots of paper towels with you to wipe up. Start on one end and work across, then go in the opposite direction. I made 3 passes, slowly squeezing the cocking gun. You better have the JT level as possible. Because it will find the low corner. If you get any on the glass. You can use a razor blade to remove it. Now I have to wait for it to set up before I remove the dams. Which will be later this evening.

Jeep Gladiator Leaking rear window : fixes for those who don't want to play dealer roulette, wait 2 months, have their top scratched, seats ripped etc.... 20250706_143802


Jeep Gladiator Leaking rear window : fixes for those who don't want to play dealer roulette, wait 2 months, have their top scratched, seats ripped etc.... 20250706_143826


Jeep Gladiator Leaking rear window : fixes for those who don't want to play dealer roulette, wait 2 months, have their top scratched, seats ripped etc.... 20250706_143834
 

Rusty PW

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I still have a half tube of the sealer left with a extra mixing end. If anyone wants it. Just pay for shipping. I even toss in some modeling clay.
 
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ecidiego

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I still have a half tube of the sealer left with a extra mixing end. If anyone wants it. Just pay for shipping. I even toss in some modeling clay.
nice work
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