Max fuel capacity

[hemigeno]

No way you’re putting that much fu
In a diesel Gladiator

(also, who hurt you? Why record that information? I don’t even know what I had for dinner last night… lol)

Mine's a gas-burner, not a diesel.

No one hurt me, it's just something I track on my own because I was curious. I log the info on my iPhone before pulling away from the pump, so it takes a few seconds. Plus, Missouri announced a program where you can get a refund of the gas tax increase they implemented last year (which increases each subsequent year) if you have receipts for your purchases. They were probably guessing few people will take the time to record and submit for the refund. Challenge accepted.

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[DCPHOENIX]

I fill up when I get down to around 40-50 miles showing when just driving around town. Usually just over 16 gallons goes in. That’s a pretty solid buffer lol

 

[aceisback]

It's definitely possible to add more than 22 gallons. I've logged every fill-up since new.

Is that an app or just a chart you designed on your own? Thanks

 

[hemigeno]

Is that an app or just a chart you designed on your own? Thanks

What's shown is just a simple Excel spreadsheet, nothing fancy. I also track (but didn't print out) which fuel station, as it's become apparent that some have better fuel than others.

The mileage at fill-up and gallons added are kept in my iPhone in a Notes page. When I have time later on, that info is added to the spreadsheet.

 

[Hootbro]

No way you’re putting that much fu
In a diesel Gladiator

(also, who hurt you? Why record that information? I don’t even know what I had for dinner last night… lol)

I use the Fuelly app to track mine. That data can be ported to a CSV file and then extrapolated in an Excel based spreadsheet.

As to being hurt, well that can be subjective.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

The computer also over estimates mileage by 1.0-1.5 mpg. So if you are seeing 22 it's probably closer to 20.8-21 mpg.

I reset my tire size using GPS and odometer, not speedometer. I have used FillUp for tracking miles and fills, and doing some calculator work just to be sure.
The cluster display for mpg is pretty much spot on over, say, 4 or 5 fills.
The reason you can't compare the cluster to reality for a single fill is that you can't possible, humanly, put in an exactly level of gas in that tank. You may think you are filling it the exact same level as last time, but you are not.
So if a person compares the cluster readings over 5 fills, and does the math manually over those same 5 fills, the total of those will be extremely close.
In fact, mine was pretty much perfect over time.
The mpg display in mine has been found to be correct.
Individual fills it might be high by a bit this time, low by a bit the time before that, but if I add all of the fills together - it's correct over time.
The issue is human, not computer.
If your truck is sitting just a couple of feet away from where it sat at the same exact pump you used last time - it changes things. If the air temperature is different - it changes things. If you filled at 1/4 tank last time but 1/2 tank this time - because of the expansion and contraction of gas with heat - it's going to be a different number of gallons this time.
No one can say with certainty "I filled it to the exact same level every time I filled it".

If mine says I got 20.4 mpg, then 19.8, then 19.4 then 20.2 and I take the number of gallons and those numbers and compare them to my phone tracking in FillUp, the sum of all match within a tenth or two.

 

[Chestnut]

The reason you can't compare the cluster to reality for a single fill is that you can't possible, humanly, put in an exactly level of gas in that tank

I would agree with this except it's varied from estimating 0.5 mph high to 1.2 mpg high. This is over 41 tanks and it's never estimated low. So i guess this would mean that some calibration is off. I just use a spread sheet not a fully ap but same information. This is also not unique to this vehicle i have 4 vehciles that all estimate 0.5mpg - 1.5mpg high and never low.

 

[Trailman]

I routinely go in to the "mileage low" range (doesn't give a number) and have put 15-20 miles, maybe more, in that. Personally never been able to hit 20 gallons. I think I hit high 19s once or twice.

I just assume the computer has an overly aggressive "protect the driver" setup.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I would agree with this except it's varied from estimating 0.5 mph high to 1.2 mpg high. This is over 41 tanks and it's never estimated low. So i guess this would mean that some calibration is off. I just use a spread sheet not a fully ap but same information. This is also not unique to this vehicle i have 4 vehciles that all estimate 0.5mpg - 1.5mpg high and never low.

More than once mine has told me a number lower than what I get from the app. So like I said - if you take the total miles driven over several tanks, and take the total gallons from those fills, it comes out pretty even.
The cluster may read .9 higher than the app one time, then .7 lower than the app the next time, and so on. But that variation in my case is because you don't have a sight glass to make sure you are filling the tank to the exact same point ever time - and unless you filled at the same pump and parked with all 4 planted in the exact same place as last time - it wouldn't matter anyway.

 

[Kevin_D]

I would agree with this except it's varied from estimating 0.5 mph high to 1.2 mpg high. This is over 41 tanks and it's never estimated low. So i guess this would mean that some calibration is off. I just use a spread sheet not a fully ap but same information. This is also not unique to this vehicle i have 4 vehciles that all estimate 0.5mpg - 1.5mpg high and never low.

Have you checked your speedometer/odometer calibration?
The truck knows exactly how much fuel it's used, so the only variable would be distance traveled. If the odometer is off, the mpg display will be innacurate.

Kevin

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Have you checked your speedometer/odometer calibration?
The truck knows exactly how much fuel it's used, so the only variable would be distance traveled. If the odometer is off, the mpg display will be innacurate.

Kevin

Yes, and the fact his is always off in one direction suggests just that.

Speedometer use for calibration is not accurate. Speedometers round numbers.
A GPS could say you are driving 55 when in fact you are doing 55.4
The truck could say you are going 55 when in fact you are going 54.6
There's almost 1 full mph difference but both say 55
Over 100 miles it's going to make a difference.
Speedometers are off a percentage - not a hard number.
So if it's off 3% at 45 mph it would be incorrect by 1.35 mph, the difference will be greater at 75 because it's a percentage - it would be off 2.25 mph at 75


Using the odometer is the best way.
Use a GPS, configure it to track and measure distance traveled - set it to 0.
Use the truck's trip meter and drive, say, 20 miles.
Both should say 20.0 for example.
If not, the truck's tire size is off.

 

[Geoarch]

I just got my truck so I’ve been breaking it in driving about 55 averaging 27

The manual says stay (p.158) below 55 for the first 60 miles:

So, how fast do you drive for the first 60 miles - 10 mph, 20, 30, 40, 50 or? Or does it say for the first 60 miles under 55, and after that stay under 140?
So we all should get bitchen gas mileage for the first 300 miles or 60 miles whatever it's saying, then it's down to 16 mph! I haven't received by JTR yet, so I have some time to unravel the poorly written sentences on page 158 (and elsewhere). Geez.

Let's make it more complicated. In my TRDPro, I installed 4.56 gears from the OEM 4.30s. East Coast Gear Supply, and indeed my installer in New Mexico said:

New gear sets MUST be broken in correctly to prevent damage. Not following proper break-in procedures will lead to overloading and overheating the ring and pinion as well as breaking down and ruining the gear oil. Not following proper break-in procedures can be determined during inspection and will void the warranty.

Please follow the below guidelines to ensure a proper break-in and long life of your gears.
• Only use high quality gear oils. ECGS recommends Lucas non-synthetic 85W-140
• On initial run, drive lightly for 15 to 20 minutes then stop to allow differential to cool completely for 20 to 25 minutes.
• Avoid towing and heavy acceleration, as well as vary speeds every 5 to 10 minutes while driving on highways.
• Drive conservatively and do not drive more than 50 miles at a time without allowing a cool cycle during the first 500 miles following installation.
• After completing initial break-in, change gear oil at 500 miles. Small metal particles are normal and gear oil will typically be black. Excessive metal in gear oil should be reviewed by a competent differential mechanic to ensure safety of internal parts.

This would be for the rear gears. The front is used much less often, and generally at lower speeds, so I assume you can ignore and change the oil at some future date.

So, our Gladiators come with new gears (3.73 or 4.10). So why don't we have to follow the gear break-in you would with a new gear set. Inquiring minds want to know... This is how I'm spending my 4th?

 

[fourfa]

My truck is diesel, fuel tank capacity is 18.3 gallons to give some room for the DEF, It shouldn’t be able to get an additional gallon in there, especially since I probably had a gallon in there still

Clipped from the manual:

 

[Gvsukids]

So, our Gladiators come with new gears (3.73 or 4.10). So why don't we have to follow the gear break-in you would with a new gear set. Inquiring minds want to know... This is how I'm spending my 4th?

Ain't nobody got time for that! I know nobody driving a dealership rental is worrying about the break-in procedure.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

The manual says stay (p.158) below 55 for the first 60 miles:

So, how fast do you drive for the first 60 miles - 10 mph, 20, 30, 40, 50 or? Or does it say for the first 60 miles under 55, and after that stay under 140?
So we all should get bitchen gas mileage for the first 300 miles or 60 miles whatever it's saying, then it's down to 16 mph! I haven't received by JTR yet, so I have some time to unravel the poorly written sentences on page 158 (and elsewhere). Geez.

Let's make it more complicated. In my TRDPro, I installed 4.56 gears from the OEM 4.30s. East Coast Gear Supply, and indeed my installer in New Mexico said:

New gear sets MUST be broken in correctly to prevent damage. Not following proper break-in procedures will lead to overloading and overheating the ring and pinion as well as breaking down and ruining the gear oil. Not following proper break-in procedures can be determined during inspection and will void the warranty.

Please follow the below guidelines to ensure a proper break-in and long life of your gears.
• Only use high quality gear oils. ECGS recommends Lucas non-synthetic 85W-140
• On initial run, drive lightly for 15 to 20 minutes then stop to allow differential to cool completely for 20 to 25 minutes.
• Avoid towing and heavy acceleration, as well as vary speeds every 5 to 10 minutes while driving on highways.
• Drive conservatively and do not drive more than 50 miles at a time without allowing a cool cycle during the first 500 miles following installation.
• After completing initial break-in, change gear oil at 500 miles. Small metal particles are normal and gear oil will typically be black. Excessive metal in gear oil should be reviewed by a competent differential mechanic to ensure safety of internal parts.

So, our Gladiators come with new gears (3.73 or 4.10). So why don't we have to follow the gear break-in you would with a new gear set. Inquiring minds want to know... This is how I'm spending my 4th?

The reason? Installers like these 4x4 shops are using new raw gears. They are as manufactured for BULK SALE.
The factory making these differentials are using gears that are lapped in.
There's no need to follow the 4x4 shop's break in - half the work is already done.
That also negates any need for changing differential lube after 500 miles on a new truck.

Take a new gear set from the shelf in a shop and look at them, feel them, rub fingers over them, look at them with a magnifying glass........ a lot different surface than what you get in your new truck from the factory.

Think of it - are you going to have to do all of that work and effort and change lube 500 miles later on a new truck? Would you even do it? Naw, no one ever would. The companies sell cars and trucks to teens, executives (male or female) soccer moms, farmers, you name it - and none of them are going to go through all of that.
From way back, hypoid gears have been worked differently than those sold as sets going into trucks or Jeeps where the owner is a different sort, wants to get gears at a lower cost and is willing to do extra work for something they asked to be put in as an upgrade.

I'll toss another variable at ya - while some shops recommend brands of lube, others do not, or they will contradict what shop A said. If I had to use a specific brand, naw, that's their favorite, that's all. And some simply choose one to make sure that if there's a come-back, it wasn't a cheap no-name walmart shelf brand. I'll use a high quality lube that's got a high pressure rating, not one that people choose because a shop, or buddy or the internet says so.
And the break-in processes even vary from gear vendor and shop to the next guy. I've compared some of the different "you must do this" lists and frankly, some of them vary quite a bit. Some basics are there but the numbers and instructions actually vary a bit.
Anyway, it's for sure you need to take extra care with newly installed after-market gears. They haven't been lapped, they haven't been burnished, the surface is raw. Very different animal than what Dana put in in their plant before shipping to Jeep's Ohio facilities.

For either - I would avoid towing. I would avoid a "heavy load" (I'd not drive from the dealership right to Menards (across the street from each other) and load up with 1200 pounds of bricks and then hit I80 and zip across the north side at 75 mph.

On a new gear set - an after-market replacement, one reason I would personally want to pull the cover off, besides making sure they did a good job and there aren't chunks in there) would be to inspect the pattern to make sure it was centered and the correct shape on both sides of the ring gear teeth. (because of the things I've seen, I guess I trust but verify)

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